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old climatemaster classic compressor shuts down after 3 minutes


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06-21-16, 10:38 PM   #1 (permalink)  
old climatemaster classic compressor shuts down after 3 minutes

Hello All,

I have an old climatemaster geo classic and it is about 15-20 years old. Recently the unit has an issue. When I turn on it (cold), the unit turn on fine, but after 3 minutes or so the compressor shuts down, but the fan and everything running. I called the certified technician and he charged me for just replacing a Cap ($425). I was pissed off, but couldn't do anything. So he left and the unit is the way it was before the tech arrived. So basically the so called certified tech could not do anything, but just stole my money and left.

So now would like to see if anybody has any idea about what is wrong with my unit. I believe the both pumping in and out pump which pump water t the unit works fine. Does anybody have any idea.


The unit is a climatemaster geo classic and it is about 15-20 years old and uses water from the ground to cool the house.

Thanks.

 
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06-21-16, 11:35 PM   #2 (permalink)  
This post belongs in the heat pump section.


Most Climatemaster Genesis geothermal units will tell you why they lock out. Not sure about Classic models.

Get a small screwdriver and lightly short the two "test" terminals for 3 to 5 seconds.

The LED will click a few times to tell you that you have a FP1, FP2 or CO fault.

I would expect the CO fault indicating a clogged drain.



Most AC techs are not qualified to work on Geo units.
I sometimes drive from Houston to Washington TX, Conroe, or Wharton to service Geothermal equipment because the homeowners cannot find local companies that can service this type of equipment.

A properly installed Geo unit should have a Pete's plug on the water inlet and outlet pipe.

When supplied with the pressure drop chart in the manual a tech should be able to tell you the gpm, how many BTU's of heat is getting transferred into or out of the water and the efficiency of the unit. A Geo tech should show up with a digital water gauge that has a needle connected to it and a digital thermometer.

Refrigerant gauges should only be connected to the unit if the readings point to a problem.


Last edited by Houston204; 06-22-16 at 12:01 AM.
 
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06-22-16, 12:00 AM   #3 (permalink)  
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Hi Houston204,

Thanks for the reply. But my unit is old and I don't see any LED to light or check. I was hoping to check the led, but no led. Like I said that it is an old unit. The model# is hp060gssslssdsc. Please see the pictures
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06-22-16, 12:13 AM   #4 (permalink)  
Yes that looks like it says 1996.

Obsolete Geothermal Product Literature

I don't see a pressure drop charge in that old VP/HP manual.

I remember working on geothermal units in the early 90's. It wasn't as defined as today. I certainty didn't have a smart phone in my pocket with an excel spreadsheet that allowed me to check gpm, btu's and efficiency of a unit.

We used analog water gauges in those days as well. You had to stock 3 or 4 gauges on the truck to be able to use the smallest gauge that could do the job.

I see 10 to 266 psi in high rises and 10 to 37 psi in houses.

I would clear the drain, check amperage of the motors and compare them to specs, and measure the water delta tee as well as the air delta tee.

 
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06-22-16, 12:39 AM   #5 (permalink)  
I check the two groundfos pump, both seem to work fine. Checked the water going in and it was dropping to 62 degree and the outlet water going out of the system was 78 or so degree. But still can not figure out why the compressor shuts off. Was thinking to look for a similar control board to replace, but can't find a similar controller board. Now I am stuck with this old system and already $450 gone and could not solve the problem. Any other trick that would at least can help me to test some stuff?

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06-22-16, 06:43 AM   #6 (permalink)  
You want 8 to 10^T on the water side and 17 to 20^T on the air side.

Sounds like you need to add water to the loop.
Getting a needle for $35 and a 60psi gauge for less than that would be a good idea if you have Pete's plugs.

 
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06-27-16, 01:07 PM   #7 (permalink)  
Still no luck

By the way, does this old Climatemaste has any filter that might be dirty? I look around, but could not find any in the system.

Model number:HP060GSSSLSDDSC

 
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06-29-16, 04:41 PM   #8 (permalink)  
Any Idea? really appreciate it.

 
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06-29-16, 07:46 PM   #9 (permalink)  
Do you have a volt meter? 24vac between L and C might point to a high or low pressure trip. A volt meter could help you determine which.

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06-30-16, 10:14 AM   #10 (permalink)  
Yes I have Voltmeter. where do I need to probe it or which pins?

Thanks.

 
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06-30-16, 09:50 PM   #11 (permalink)  
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I'd put my leads across the LPS or HPS terminals to help diagnose this problem.
24VAC across these terminals when lockout occurs would point that direction.

 
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12-04-17, 11:41 AM   #12 (permalink)  
the voltages are reading fine... 24v for HPS and LPS.

Sorry still have this issue.

 
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12-05-17, 06:27 PM   #13 (permalink)  
You would want to read 24 volts from these terminals to common but you would not want to reads 24 volts between the two terminals that I highlighted red or between the 2 terminals highlighted blue.

24 volts would indicate potential voltage. It would indicate that a pressure switch is open.
Are you measuring an open low pressure switch or an open high pressure switch?

 
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12-07-17, 04:22 PM   #14 (permalink)  
Yes, the 24v for L and H were fine when they were read. The Air conditioning guy checked that, but he was not familiar with Geo and said not sure what else could be. Now the heating is stopped working and summer was the AC and now winter the Heat is not working... Heating was working for a few months, but now that too stopped and it is freaking cold now.

by the way, I am tired of this and want to replace it with a conventional system no geo.. too expensive. The geo that I have is 5 tons I believe. but not sure. HPHP060GSSSLSDDSC... that is the model number and not sure if it is 60,000 BTU or not....
and Serial number is: 960079739

 
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12-07-17, 10:45 PM   #15 (permalink)  
Wow, it is too bad that you want to get rid of Geo. It is an impressive way to heat a home.
A modern Geo is probably at least twice as efficient as a conventional heat pump, even high end models.

Yes, I would say that you have a 1996 five ton unit.

It is hard to find a good HVAC contractor. It is even harder to find a good geothermal HVAC contractor.
I am fortunate to work for a very smart boss who is willing to share valuable geothermal knowledge with me.
I try to return the favor by being the best dang tech that he has.

Getting the ground loop is expensive. If I had the ground loop I would seriously consider a Waterfurnace 5 series geothermal unit.

 
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12-07-17, 10:56 PM   #16 (permalink)  
I'd love to have Geo. I have a 25k gallon inground pool. Will that work ?

Interesting stuff.... Waterfurnace.
waterfurnace/residential/products/geothermal-heat-pumps


~ Pete ~

 
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12-07-17, 11:07 PM   #17 (permalink)  
The best applications that I have seen are with a small lake.
Check out the efficiency of his 1996 Geothermal unit with 70 degree water...



I have geothermal systems in River Oaks that would really benefit with a lake to cool the loop.

 
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