Heat pump issue

Reply

  #41  
Old 04-27-17, 06:21 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
There should be one cable coming from inside the house. In it will be the colors you mentioned in the splice you found. This is what you told me...

Tracing up from the condensor
2 red capped with 1 dark red
2 orange capped with a darker orange
1 white with 1 light grey capped
2 yellow with 1 olive green capped
1 light green to 1 dark green
2 light blue to 1 dark blue

So that means you should have at least a thin red, orange, yellow, blue.
I can see the orange to orange very clearly. The others.... not so clearly.

So locate the thin yellow wire that comes out of the cable and test it to thin blue.
We need 24vac on this yellow wire.


I see your contactor with two larger yellow wires. Ultimately we need the 24v on these two yellow wires. One of these yellow wires will connect to the thin yellow wire from the cable. The other yellow will connect to the thin blue. There may be other devices in the lines.

I see that yellow to black splice with wirenut. I can't tell where that black wire goes to. If it goes to a two wire device..... where does the other black go ?
 
Sponsored Links
  #42  
Old 04-27-17, 07:06 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Heat pump wiring

I have 2 orange capped 14 (1 gauge 1 16 gauge)
1 brown 14guage capped with 1 black 16 gauge
1 red 14 gauge capped with 1 red 16 gauge
1 dark blue 14 gauge capped with 1 black 16 gauge (could be dark blue)
1 14 black capped with 1 white or light grey 16 gauge
1 yellow 14 capped to 1 black 16
These 14 gauge wires run from the board down to connect with the 16s coming in from the wall

There is another 14 red, 14 black and 14 light blue connected to an olive green 16 also from the wall. The 14s come from the blue box timer.

There are 2 14 yellows connected to the board at a different spot. 1 goes to the capacitor and the other to the black box with the brass contacts right next to the capacitor. If I push the middle spring loaded button in the middle of these brass contacts the heat pump kicks on.

That's all I see.
 
  #43  
Old 04-27-17, 07:16 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
The wiring in the cable is #18.

I'm not sure where the lack of communication is. I can see the small wires I'm asking about. They should be #18 and come into the heatpump in ONE brown cable.
I can see the small orange. I can see the small blue.

I need to know where that SMALL yellow wire connects to.

Small... the same size as the yellow wire inside the house.

Name:  Heat pump 1.jpg
Views: 184
Size:  48.7 KB
 
  #44  
Old 04-27-17, 07:19 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry missed one. There is a 14 brown capped with a 16 black I don't see any green at all. Only the 16 olive that connects to the 14 red 14 light blue going to the timer. All told there are 4 14 gauge yellow wires coming 2 separate connects off the board. 1 to black box with brass contacts h2 up into some piece of copper pipe. They end there. And 1 coming from the board capped with the timer wires. 1 yellow jumped from capacitor and spliced into like 8 gauge wire that is coming from what looks like the motor itself. I'd have to take the top of the unit off to see exactly what they hook to.
 
  #45  
Old 04-27-17, 07:24 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That looks about right. Very small. Was guessing 16. That's whats coming coming out of the wall. The 14# are coming from the board.
 
  #46  
Old 04-27-17, 07:52 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Heat pump wiring update

I'm sorry I know your getting aggrevated. I've cleaned all the wires off with a wet paper towel. The closest thing I could call yellow would be what I'm seeing as olive. It may be missed colored over time. It is connected to a 1-14# red and 1 14# blue going to the blue box (what I'm guessing is the delay timer)Name:  Heat pump Close up cleaned.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  48.5 KB.
 
  #47  
Old 04-27-17, 08:11 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
I see wiring all the time. Yours doesn't follow the colors as normally used which is why the confusion.

I don't know why the same cable wasn't run to the heat pump that was used inside.
2 yellow with 1 olive green capped...... The yellow comes out on olive green.

Ok... now check the olive green to blue for 24vac. Stat must be in cool.... wait 5 minutes.


The olive green goes to red and blue. Are those both going to that blue box?
Any other wires coming out of that blue box?
 
  #48  
Old 04-27-17, 09:34 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Blue box wiring

I don't know either. Surely would have simplified life! I apologize for the confusion. You asked if there were any other wires coming from the blue box. Yes. There is a black wire that is capped to a yellow from the board. You also said to test the olive green to the blue capped. Am I separating the olive from the blue and red first? Or leaving as is and testing. I'm sorry for all the stupid questions. My husband has had a serious injury so this job has been delegated to me and I'm deathly afraid of electricity!
 
  #49  
Old 04-27-17, 09:39 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
No problem... hang in there.

Just be mindful of the high voltage.
For these tests you can leave the condensor powered down. 24v comes from inside the house.

You can leave the olive green connected. Just take the wirenut off.
If you do get the 24v on the olive green wire..... check at the black wire from the blue box/yellow wire connection.
 
  #50  
Old 04-28-17, 08:47 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Olive to blue

I checked the olive/yellow to blue. I get nothing. I stopped there. Should I keep going? Or did we just find the problem?

Thanks!

Wendy
 
  #51  
Old 04-28-17, 05:53 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yellow/olive testing to blue

Hi again Pete,
I did the test from the yellow/olive to the blue on the heatpump. There is nothing registering there. I stopped there. Did we just find the problem or is there anything else that needs tested?

OH, and if there is a way for me to erase some of these posts to take it down to one page let me know and I'll do so.

Thanks,

Wendy
 
  #52  
Old 04-28-17, 07:25 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
I have to take care of the posts. I doubt I could get this down to one page.

There is a problem here. You checked for 24v on the Y terminal on the air handler and it was there. I believe you checked the splice where the two yellows joined the olive green and found power there.

You had checked for 24v between red and blue wires at the heatpump and found it there.
Then you checked for 24v between the orange and blue wires and had that too.

I would double check those two and see if you still have them.

We've been moving closer to the heat pump and finding power.... and now we don't have it. So basically you start checking again and find out where it's getting lost. It it's at the splice inside and not at the heat pump... it's a broken wire.

Make sure the stat is in cooling and on at least 5 minutes before testing.


This is basically what we have. We're concerned with only 4 colors right now. If the power we're checking for is at the splice and at the air handler terminal strip...then there is a problem on it's way outside.

Name:  HP.jpg
Views: 163
Size:  17.3 KB
 
  #53  
Old 04-29-17, 08:35 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
OK,
I'm going to post one last pic of the wires up top that I found after we started testing to confirm there are in fact the correct wires I should be testing.. Then I will go back through each step starting at the beginning. I'm kind of at a loss now.. Maybe I've done something wrong along the way. I don't remember testing 24v between red and blue wires at the heatpump. But it's been a long ride so I could be wrong.. Here's the pic and I'll start testing again..

Thanks,
WendyName:  Wires up top.jpg
Views: 175
Size:  39.7 KB
 
  #54  
Old 04-29-17, 10:32 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Retesting procedure.. I started at the beginning of your posts. I went through everything again. All steps confirmed as previous. EXCEPT, I retested the olive/yellow to the blue. I DO HAVE 24VAC coming to it. Don't know what I did wrong previously. So I take it we are diagnosing the actual heat pump at this point since it's getting power from the house?
 
  #55  
Old 04-29-17, 12:57 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
Excellent job.

Now we're at the heatpump. You have 24v to the timer module.
Disconnect the olive green from the red and blue on the timer.
Disconnect the black wire from the timer where it connects to the yellow.
Connect the olive green to the yellow. This bypasses the timer module.

You should now have 24v on that yellow wire that probably goes to one of the coil contacts on the contactor. Set stat to cool.... make sure condensor power is back on and see if it works.
 
  #56  
Old 04-29-17, 01:31 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
We have take off!!

Pete,
YOUR THE MAN!! It's working!! I can't believe it!! Couldn't have picked a better day to come on. It's 95 here today. So now the question is. Where do I get a timer for a Trane XE100 and how is it installed? I can't see how the existing timer is mounted. I can't thank you enough for your patience! I suppose I can't just leave it running cuz it would burn up the motor?
 

Last edited by Mcclaingrayson; 04-29-17 at 02:36 PM.
  #57  
Old 04-29-17, 04:54 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
Great news. Your thermostat has a 5 minute timer in it. That's fine for short cycling protection.
 
  #58  
Old 04-29-17, 05:54 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Delay timer replacement

So where would I find something like this and how do you replace it? I don't see any screws holding the old one in.
 
  #59  
Old 04-29-17, 06:29 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 58,642
Received 1,049 Votes on 973 Posts
Most 5 minute timers only have two wires. You can leave the old one right where it is. Cut the wires off to it.

Here's a replacement. You can just tie wrap this one to the wiring harness.

https://www.amazon.com/ICM-Controls-...ke+A%2FC+timer

ICM101F Delay on Make Timer, 6" Wire Leads (5 Minute Fixed Delay)



 
  #60  
Old 05-04-17, 04:02 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 36
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wiring delay timer

Heoo again Pete,
It's your favorite person! I received the delay timer. I'm unsure which wire goes where. I've included a picture. I just want to make SURE that the yellow/olive wire coming from the house connects to the input on the timer. I don't want to blow anything up after all this! Name:  Delay timer.jpg
Views: 161
Size:  47.5 KB

Thanks!!

Wendy
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: