Emer heat not working

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-19-19, 11:46 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Emer heat not working

Nordyne E2EB-015HB, Goodman HPT18-60W. AC and heat work normally but emer heat does not work. Pulled coils out and tested them - they are good. Emer light on thermostat does not come on. Have crossed the R and WE and then the R to E but coils do not come on.

There is a switch on the lower lt side that has two relays on it - those relays don't close. I can't fine a picture of that switch to see what it is or if that could be the problem.

If the thermostat needs to be changed I would like to keep an non-programmable one. Suggestions for what to get since the one I have is not made any more? Tks - jim
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-19-19, 08:42 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,245
Received 381 Votes on 358 Posts
What heat works normally ? The heat pump ?

The basic wiring diagram shows the electric reheats being controlled by the white wire only.
If you put 24v on the white wire..... the blower relay should close and the coil contactor should close.

Name:  e2eb.JPG
Views: 73
Size:  81.8 KB
 
  #3  
Old 10-19-19, 08:55 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry - I thought I was clear - both the ac cooling and the heat pump work as they are suppose to - the red light on the thermostat does not come on when I go to emer heat and the coils do not get hot. When one goes to emer heat it shuts down the "normal" heat pump as it is suppose to.
 
  #4  
Old 10-19-19, 09:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,245
Received 381 Votes on 358 Posts
On a heat pump system..... the heat pump runs to heat. If the room temperature drops 3 below the setpoint..... the electric heat coils are turned on. Both should run to recover heat. The electric will shut off as the setpoint is reached.

Emergency heat is the same heating coils but in E mode the heat pump is shut down.
 
  #5  
Old 10-20-19, 09:41 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I am aware of that - I guess my post is not clear - the heat and cool from the compressor works - heats and cools. What does not work is the emer heat when I switch from "normal" to emer and the red light on the thermostat does not come on as it used to do.

Since heat pumps don't work very well when the temps drop into the 40's or lower I switch to emer heat to use the heat coils at these lower temps. This is a 19 yr old system and I never known the heat coils to come on at lower temps as you indicated.

I was told to take the red lead on the thermostat and connect to the CW or to the E and that this would force the heat coils to come on - it does not.


What I am trying to do is trouble shoot from where I am now to see what it might cost to fix the problem.

As I mentioned, there is a switch/controller to the left of the heat coils that has two relays - these relays do not close. Could it be that these are defective or that the thermostat is defective?

Since it is no longer made, IF I replace the Goodman HPT18-60W thermostat and do not want a digital one, what is suggested to replace it with? My present thermostat has 7 wires.
 
  #6  
Old 10-20-19, 10:51 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,245
Received 381 Votes on 358 Posts
Any thermostat for heat pump use with back up heat will work there.
The Honeywell-rth3100 will maintain the separate emergency heat switch.
 
  #7  
Old 10-20-19, 01:47 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I was given a Honeywell HTP6580WF1001 and have connected all the wires as per the "heat pump" part except for the white one - does it go to K, L, or RC? Edit - found statement that K is for future use so leaves L and RC.
 

Last edited by jebjeb; 10-20-19 at 02:41 PM.
  #8  
Old 10-20-19, 09:00 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,435
Received 36 Votes on 33 Posts
You switch to emergency heat when the outdoor temperature is in the 40s?
That’s likely costing you considerable amounts of money in energy. Heat pumps can perform great at much lower temperatures. Yours may have a mechanical problem if it’s unable to.
 
  #9  
Old 10-20-19, 09:19 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,245
Received 381 Votes on 358 Posts
Do you mean an RTH6580WF ?

You would use the AUX/E for the electric reheats.
 
  #10  
Old 10-21-19, 10:27 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Roughneck77 - This is a 19 yr old unit - I am sure the newer ones do much better.
 
  #11  
Old 10-21-19, 10:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
PJ, the thermostat is the RTH6580WF 1001 WIFI. Don't want any of the WIFI stuff. I have tried to follow what Honeywell has on their site and have it as follows -

R- red, Y- yellow, C- blue, O-B- orange, G- green, Aux-E- brown - they did not show a place for the white and there are 3 places left, K, L and RC which is jumped to R. Honeywell says K is for future use so my questions are is what I have above correct and where does the white wire go - to L or take the jumper off and put on RC? I also have the part needed to plug into the wall but since my old stat was powered I should not need it, right?

The Goodman stat I am replacing was wired - y- yellow, G- green, R- red, O- orange, W2- white, E- brown, C- blue.
 
  #12  
Old 10-21-19, 02:18 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 53,245
Received 381 Votes on 358 Posts
The white wire goes on AUX/E. Tape off the brown wire.
 
  #13  
Old 10-21-19, 03:29 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Honeywell told me that both the whte and brown wire go to the aux/E. Hooked it up that way and turned breakers on - T-stat blank. There is a fuse in the wiring on the heat unit that is blown - got 2 new ones but, dumb me, I forgot which wires go to the fuse and I can't find a wiring diagram that shows the fuse. I have 2 reds , a yellow and a pink.

Edit - Found a wiring diagram that looks like red to red on fuse - makes sense, will try that. Fuse does not blow but T-stat still blank - will call Honeywell again.

Honeywell told me - again - that both white and brown go to aux/E. Will test to see if transformer is bad next.
 

Last edited by jebjeb; 10-21-19 at 04:50 PM.
  #14  
Old 10-21-19, 07:41 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 23
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I get no reading with meter on either R or W - can I assume the transformer is bad?
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: