Troubleshooting GSH130481AD Goodman condenser
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Troubleshooting GSH130481AD Goodman condenser
Question about troubleshooting a Outdoor Condensing Unit (Goodman Heat-pump GSH130481AD).
Based on the description below, any suggestion about the next components I should check?
(I have attached a picture of the unit label, and was going to attach a PDF of the Manual, however it was too large, I found it here manualslib.com/download/867424/Goodman-Gsh-Series.html)
Thanks for the help; any suggestions are appreciated!!
Symptoms:
More Details / Tests:
Heating:
Based on the description below, any suggestion about the next components I should check?
(I have attached a picture of the unit label, and was going to attach a PDF of the Manual, however it was too large, I found it here manualslib.com/download/867424/Goodman-Gsh-Series.html)
Thanks for the help; any suggestions are appreciated!!
Symptoms:
- Outdoor unit will not heat or cool
- Outdoor fan does not turn on
- There is slight quiet "hum/buzz" from inside the unit when in heating or cooling mode
More Details / Tests:
Heating:
- Indoor AHU fan comes on, thermostat says heating or heating aux
- Heating aux seems to work some
- Outdoor CU fan does not come on, slight buzz/hum from inside unit
- Outdoor CU fan does not "kick-start" (using a thin stick pushing fan manually) but the blades spin very freely in both directions
- Indoor AHU fan comes on, thermostat says cooling
- Outdoor CU fan does not come on, slight buzz/hum from inside unit
- Outdoor CU fan does not "kick-start" (using a thin stick pushing fan manually) but the blades spin very freely in both directions
- Indoor AHU fan off, thermostat says "heat set to"
- Outdoor unit NO hum/buzz
Goodman GSH130481AD
- Volts: 208/230
- Phase: 1
- Hertz: 60
- Voltage Range: Min.: 197 Max.: 253
- Max. Fuse Amps or Max. Circuit Breaker: 40
- Min. Citcuit Amps: 23.9
- Fan Motor: FLA: 1.50; HP: 1/4; RLA: 17.9; LRA: 104
- Factory Test Pressure PSIG: LOW: 150; HIGH: 300
#2
Welcome to the forums.
Assuming you have a meter as you will need one.
Carefully check for 240vAC on the supply lines to the contactor first.
Most heat pump systems are wired similarly.........
R - red - 24vAC always live power
O - orange - 24vAC for reversing valve
C - ?? color - Common
Y - yellow - 24vAC contactor
W - white - electric heat during defrost
It looks like your unit should have a diagnostic module. Turn the power off to the condenser.
Remove the wiring access cover. Turn power back on. Look for the LEDs on the monitor.
Assuming you have a meter as you will need one.
Carefully check for 240vAC on the supply lines to the contactor first.
Most heat pump systems are wired similarly.........
R - red - 24vAC always live power
O - orange - 24vAC for reversing valve
C - ?? color - Common
Y - yellow - 24vAC contactor
W - white - electric heat during defrost
It looks like your unit should have a diagnostic module. Turn the power off to the condenser.
Remove the wiring access cover. Turn power back on. Look for the LEDs on the monitor.
mikemcclinto
voted this post useful.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks PJmax.
I will check that next.
Some more info on what I have checked:
I started with removing and checking the dual run capacitor, the capacitance looks correct for both fan and and condenser.
Thanks again, this is a great resource.
I will check that next.
Some more info on what I have checked:
I started with removing and checking the dual run capacitor, the capacitance looks correct for both fan and and condenser.
Thanks again, this is a great resource.
#4
You should have 24vAC between R and C.
You should also have 24vAC between Y and C on a call for cooling.
You should also have 24vAC between O and C.
You should also have 24vAC between Y and C on a call for cooling.
You should also have 24vAC between O and C.
mikemcclinto
voted this post useful.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Pete,
Took some measurements with power to the unit.
- Had 248V supply to the contactor
- Confirmed that it was the contactor that was buzzing (on both call for heating and call for cooling)
-- Contactor did not make noise when Thermostat Set-point was satisfied (no call heating or cooling)
- Noticed the contactor did not look in good shape (see top terminal in pictures)



- Poked around a little with the meter on the other end of the contactor, and did not get any readings for voltage (I am not confident I was checking the right components)
Hoping I didn't jump the gun, but I removed the contactor and am planning to try to find a replacement (my go-to method would be using the label, but in the pictures you can see it is pretty damaged).
From the manual I think I need to replace CONT1P030024VS Contactor (for M22 GSH130481AD).
Found this one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OneTrip-Parts.../dp/B007YSH48M
Took some measurements with power to the unit.
- Had 248V supply to the contactor
- Confirmed that it was the contactor that was buzzing (on both call for heating and call for cooling)
-- Contactor did not make noise when Thermostat Set-point was satisfied (no call heating or cooling)
- Noticed the contactor did not look in good shape (see top terminal in pictures)



- Poked around a little with the meter on the other end of the contactor, and did not get any readings for voltage (I am not confident I was checking the right components)
Hoping I didn't jump the gun, but I removed the contactor and am planning to try to find a replacement (my go-to method would be using the label, but in the pictures you can see it is pretty damaged).
From the manual I think I need to replace CONT1P030024VS Contactor (for M22 GSH130481AD).
Found this one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OneTrip-Parts.../dp/B007YSH48M
Last edited by mikemcclinto; 04-25-20 at 02:55 PM. Reason: duplicate images and extra info about possible replacement
#6
Was the contactor being pulled in ?
Did you check for 24vAC on the contactor coil terminals (yellow and blue wires) ?
That contactor should be a replacement for yours.
Contactors come in two major types..... single pole switching and the other pole has a jumper OR two switching contacts. That style needs to be maintained.
Did you check for 24vAC on the contactor coil terminals (yellow and blue wires) ?
That contactor should be a replacement for yours.
Contactors come in two major types..... single pole switching and the other pole has a jumper OR two switching contacts. That style needs to be maintained.