heat pump outside unit not running
#1
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heat pump outside unit not running
my rudd system is 5 yrs old. worked fine before power outage but now the outside unit tries to start, gets a jolt then nothing. inside blower is running. tried and replaced dual capacitor and same issue. all turns on if i push the relay in manually.
any help greatly appreciated
any help greatly appreciated
#2
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Is the unit getting a call to run? Check with your meter.
DO NOT push the contactor in. It’s very dangerous. Can cause arc flash.
DO NOT push the contactor in. It’s very dangerous. Can cause arc flash.
#7
Ok..... your next step is to find the exact location where the thermostat cable connects to the condenser. It may be in the same area where power connects. Typically there will be wirenuts on the splices. Check right at the splice point.
The reason for this check is to see if power is being interrupted from the thermostat or the condenser itself.
There are safety switches that can open inside the condenser.
The reason for this check is to see if power is being interrupted from the thermostat or the condenser itself.
There are safety switches that can open inside the condenser.
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tstat connects to a electrical board by 4-5 of the colored tstat wires. from the motherboard 2 wires come out and connect to the contactor.
Not sure where you are describing? I did look through the slots but did not see any reset switches/buttons
Not sure where you are describing? I did look through the slots but did not see any reset switches/buttons
#10
On that board..... look for C and Y. Check that. That is switched 24v from the thermostat.
While checking that... check from C to R for always live 24v power.
You need to determine if the fault is inside or outside.
There is no manual reset.
While checking that... check from C to R for always live 24v power.
You need to determine if the fault is inside or outside.
There is no manual reset.
#12
No polarity.... this is AC.
The defrost board is always live via R and C.
The contactor is only live via R and Y. (only during a call for cooling)
The defrost board is always live via R and C.
The contactor is only live via R and Y. (only during a call for cooling)
#16
No.... it's not the contactor. It's a safety opening.
Hmmmm...... can you watch R and C when the contactor closes then opens.
If R and C go low....the contactor coil could be shorted.
Is there a wiring diagram on the backside of the access panel you could post a picture of ?
If not.... post the full model number from the condenser.
How-to-insert-pictures.
Hmmmm...... can you watch R and C when the contactor closes then opens.
If R and C go low....the contactor coil could be shorted.
Is there a wiring diagram on the backside of the access panel you could post a picture of ?
If not.... post the full model number from the condenser.
How-to-insert-pictures.
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not sure why, but my air handler was filled with water. it is a horizontal install so quite a mess. had to remove all the insulation and letting dry out. would this cause the condensing unit from starting? or the contactor from staying pulled in?
#20
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Possibly, yes.
Do you have a condensate overflow switch?
Your drain is clogged and/or the pan is dirty.
Do you have a condensate overflow switch?
Your drain is clogged and/or the pan is dirty.
#25
There should be always live 24vAC between R and C.
There should be 24vAC between Y and C as long as the stat is calling for cooling.
If the contactor closes and then opens.... and there is still 24v on Y and C..... the board is shutting the power down to the contactor.
You've got a diagnostic control board there..... what is it telling you ??
There should be 24vAC between Y and C as long as the stat is calling for cooling.
If the contactor closes and then opens.... and there is still 24v on Y and C..... the board is shutting the power down to the contactor.
You've got a diagnostic control board there..... what is it telling you ??
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Thanks Pete, did not know that was there. So the code is low pressure switch. What does that mean and how do I reset it? Could that occur from a power outage? was working fine up to the outage.
#32
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The system is sealed, so you should never loose refrigerant. The refrigerant charge isn’t consumed as the system runs.
#33
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could it be any other cause? Temps were cold up to the day of power outage. The drain pan was clogged and the horozontal airhandler was filled about 1/4 of water. Had to get rid of all the insulation on bottom and sides due to moisture.
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i may have reset already. I cut the power to the indoor and outdoor for several minutes the repowered and the board did read normal in the off position. soon as i called for cool, the indoor fan came on and outdoor contactor pulled in the right back out and the same error code appeared.