Looking at replacing an old thermostat for my grandma since she can't see the old one to change it. A smart thermostat I can control and schedule solves the problem.
Here is an image of the board on the air handler and an image from the old stat. Can anyone give me suggestions how to wire? I've wired it up and it shuts off after several minutes on the heat cycle. New filter is installed so it's not clogged, unless it's too restrictive? The labels for the board go B Y O T, G R W1 W2 (no wires connected to W1). My research seems to say the blue is the C wire but the brown wire was connected to C on the old stat and obviously there's no C on the air handler board.
And yes she needs a new system but it's not in the budget just yet.
Also how do I know for sure it's air to air vs geothermal? There's a copper pipe that runs to the attic air handler from outside. I'm assuming air to air since she lives in a retirement community and I doubt they'd put geothermal pipes in the ground. Thanks for the help!
Last edited by PJmax; 01-09-21 at 09:21 PM.
Reason: cropped/resized/enhanced pics
Those old GE Weathertrons are a treat to work on. The wiring is not always as it appears.
In this unit..... T (stands for transformer) is Common.
Remember.... follow the heat pump labeling..... not conventional.
Always turn power off to the unit before making wiring changes. A short can be deadly.
W2 -------> white ---------> AUX
G ---------> green ---------> G
W --------> orange ------- > O/B
C ---------> brown ---------> C
Y ---------> yellow ---------> Y
R ---------> red -------------> R (leave the R/Rc jumper in place)
New thermostat doesn't look like an Ecobee thermostat base.
You have an air to air heatpump.
You need to program the stat for heatpump operation with backup AUX heat.
Thanks for the reply and sorry for the confusion. The other picture of the stat is the old one as well. I was showing the wiring and then the heat pump labels. Didn't have a pic showing both. I do in fact have an Ecobee stat. Can you please suggest the wiring for the Ecobee? It's different.
Also, why would the W1 terminal be left unused on the air handler?
And what is the blue wire? It is wrapped in the wall but hooked up on the air handler. Thanks again! Appreciate the help and really enjoy the forums here!
There really is no W1 and W2 on those old units. Actually there may have been but typically they are combined in a common W. Your heat connection is with the white wire on W2.
You didn't leave a model number so you are on your own to program it.
It looks like a Ecobee 3 lite.
W2 -------> white ---------> W1
G ---------> green ---------> G
W --------> orange ------- > O/B
C ---------> brown ---------> no connection-tape off
Y ---------> yellow ---------> Y1
R ---------> red -------------> Rc (no R jumper needed)
B ---------> blue -----------> C
On a Trane weathertron the B is common and the T is temperature sensor.
Last edited by PJmax; 01-10-21 at 05:32 PM.
Reason: changed labeling
Awesome! Thanks! What needs to be setup on the Ecobee besides telling it it's an air to air heat pump? Yes, it's an Ecobee 3 Lite and a GE WeatherTron. Trane bought out GE in the 80s I believe so this thing is OLD! I can't even find a model number on the outside heat pump due to the age but it's still pumping! On the air handler I found these numbers...
BAY96X1411
BWE724G150A (O)
Ok, another question with it... Since the wires on the air handler are not connected to W1 and only connected to W2, would that have any impact on fan speed or anything? It seems as though it's taking longer to heat the house now with the Ecobee. Could it be a setting on the Ecobee? And thank you Pjmax for all the knowledge. Really helpful!!
It may longer to heat if the ecobee doesn't use the electric heat as aggressively.
With a heat pump system the idea is to let the heat pump do the heating and use the electric reheat sparingly.
Have you confirmed that the electric heat is working ?
Ok, that makes sense. How would I go about seeing if the electric heat is working? I'm getting hot air from the ducts but that's the extent of my checks so far! Thanks!
Hi Folks,
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/436x640/img_7228_d904858225ec010c481a778c84a1e0d68b5773ed.jpg[/img]
[i]This thing is at least 30 Years old AFAIK[/i]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x309/img_7257_c0e1d19aeb17be008763712fba1f98c0c4f6608c.jpg[/img]
[i]Original Thermostat[/i]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_e7238_c910e052da74df1cfed31283b2edf7f2f0e05648.jpg[/img]
[i]Small un-provisioned pipe[/i]
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_e7237_980e662e7becd18ac8ed90a1c4480d406751a96f.jpg[/img]
[i]Large un-provisioned pipe. Also shows the rest of the unit that has never been provisioned.[/i]
I've got an old heat pump in house I'm working on but it seems like it's only operating as a stand-alone electric furnace ($$$-gulp!). Can someone help me understand how this thing is supposed to work?
There are currently no fluid pipes connected. There's no radiator/condenser pack outside the house -- only a 40A feeder circuit. Pictures tell the story.
There's one 3/4" copper pipe that's never been provisioned, leading down out of the attic - not sure where terminated.
There's one 3/8" copper pipe that's also never been provisioned, leading the same direction.
-How would this normally be hooked up?
-What would those provisional pipes be for? (I'm assuming I'd need 2 pipes for the exterior circuit but wouldn't they be the same diameter? (or different due to pressure difference for egress/return pipes?).
-How many exterior pipes would ordinarily be required (from unit to the exterior cube) - Assuming I only need Heating, not Cooling.
-Is it worth repairing and what are my options? .. i.e. adding an external heat exchanger (compressor?), Ground source, water source (i have a well nearby) etc..?
In this application, the house is off the gas grid so all heat is electric of some sort.
Regards,
Dave
Hello,
My outdoor A/C unit is beginning to frost over. Outdoor temp between 30-40 indoor temp 70.
I’ve read that I should be changing filters which I do every month. We have 5 ceiling filters that are changed. I wasn’t sure if there are any additional filters at the blower system in the attic. I visually inspected them and found two access covers, one of which is taped.
I opened one of the panels to find no filter but I wouldn’t put it past the previous owner not replacing the one that could have been there.
Please see picture below.
Thank you in advance!
Jamie
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/62531c3e_fc9d_48c2_8ede_2a2c9652df1d_7179c46cf72c180f0e68eb5ef8cccded89183f5d.jpeg[/img]
[i]Is this where a filter would go?[/i]