Installing a programmable Wi-Fi thermostat on a heat pump
I've been told installing a programmable Wi-Fi thermostat for a heat pump is not a walk-in-the-park the first time.
Could you review my summary of Honeywell's installation steps and function and option settings and let me know if I am missing anything?
Thanks!
gfr92y
Old Thermostat: Honeywell TH3210D1004
New Thermostat: Honeywell RTH6580WF1001
1. Switch OFF power to the heat pump system at the circuit breaker box.
Is there any reason to remove the two pull-out disconnects located on top of the air handling unit?
2. Remove the old thermostat faceplate and take a picture of the wire connections for later reference; see below. (The old thermostat operated without batteries despite having a place for two AA batteries.)
3. Label wires by terminal connection.
I am planning to skip this step given the correlation of wire color and terminal designation recognizing that the black wire goes to the C-terminal.
4. Disconnect wires from connection block and remove old wallplate.
5. Separate the new thermostat faceplate from its wallplate and mount it on the wall.
6. Connect the black wire to the C-terminal and the remaining wires as shown in the photo above.
7. Attached faceplate to the wallplate.
8. Switch ON power to the heat pump system at the circuit breaker box.
9. Set clock to current day and time.
10. Set functions and options: For heat pump systems, follow instructions on pages 18 and 19 (see attached) to change the system type by setting System Function 1 to match your thermostat to your system type.
Please review: I highlighted what I think are the correct settings on pages 18 and 19 (see attached).
Not sure what you picture is depicting there.
Typically you take a picture of the wiring ON the old thermostat and then post that picture.
Based on what you are illustrating.....
Black >>>>> C
Red >>>>>> R
Yellow >>>> Y
Orange >>> O/B
Green >>>> G
White >>>> AUX
1 >>>>>> 5 - heat pump with back up heat
2 >>>>>> 0 - orange for cooling/standard - reversing valve
3 >>>>>> 1 - electric heat - stat controls blower
5 & 6 >>> 9 - electric heat response
The rest are your choice.
!2 >>> I'm not a big fan of auto heat/cool changeover especially where temperatures can change drastically like in the spring and fall.
On Thursday, I attempted to change the thermostats for my first-floor conventational HVAC system and second-floor heat pump HVAC system.
Each time, I threw:
[list=1]
[*]A 15A CB labelled Gas Furnace,
[*]2 25A paired CBs labelled Up Heat,
[*]2 25A paired CBs labelled AC,
[*]2 30A paired CBs labelled AC, and
[*]2 60A paired CBs labelled Up Heat.
[/list]
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/960x2000/hp_conv_circuit_breakers_6048b890851187e33cd602ef2b9ab5ec8e6dc454.png[/img]
Thinking I had cut-off all of the power to both systems, I attemped to change the thermostats without success. Both times, after putting the faceplate on, the display did not lightup after waiting 5-7 minutes.
On Friday, the owner of an HVAC repair and installation company that he started 20+ years ago said I burned a fuse in each of the units. He blocked my line of sight so I could not see which fuses he replaced. However, after he left, I was able to determine which fuse in each unit was replaced by the absense of any dirt or dust on each.
I am a fairly successful DIYer and I must have missed something that should have been obvious to me, but wasn't.
Do I throw the same circuit breakers and the replaced fuse until I am done?
Do I pull the two pull-fuses on top of the air handling unit in the attic and the one outside for compressor?
Are there any other switches or fuses that should be thrown?
[color=#22292d]Should I just through the 200A whole-house circuit breaker?
What am I missing?
Thanks!
gfr92y[/color]
Read More
Had a Lennox HP and heater [emergency heat] installed 5-7 years ago [$10+k] -- Had a $600+ system check [a few hours] done a couple of weeks ago and nothing out of the ordinary was mentioned [system fine, I guess].
A couple of days later noticed the HP was blowing cool air so had someone come look at it. This technician believes it is the TXV [in the heat pump] and proceeded to demonstrate with ice and comparing with that exterior TXV and an interior TXV. Replacing it would be about $4k because of the labor involved at accessing the valve.
My questions are:
Does this seem right? Can I test it [or other possibilities]? Read More