Genie Mod 90 Raises but won't Lower


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Old 03-10-09, 03:36 PM
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Genie Mod 90 Raises but won't Lower

This is the 1/3rd hp screw model, new in 1991. When I push the remote or wall button to lower the door nothing happens - no movement or sound. I cleaned the limit switch contacts and connectors - meter fine. Help??
 
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Old 03-10-09, 04:41 PM
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Check the door obstruction sensors. They are either out of alignment or a wire is broken or they are broken.
 
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Old 03-10-09, 05:29 PM
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Not sure it had sensors in '91? Mine is from '90-'91 and it doesn't.

Does it run with the door disconnected? Does the door run smoothly up and down manually? Will it stop and stay anywhere in the middle of the opening when you take your hand off it? Unplug the opener and wait an hour or so, then plug it back in.

I'll see what I can dig up later...gotta make dinner.
 
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Old 03-10-09, 06:48 PM
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"Check the door obstruction sensors". This model does not have those. If the door hits something while lowering it is supposed to reverse itself. There seems to be no restriction on door movement, up or down, as I can move it manually after disconnecting the screw drive. ??

"Does it run with the door disconnected?" Disconnected from the door, the screw turns ONLY in the RAISE direction. It does nothing when I try to lower. No hum, nothing.

Thanks gentlemen. Please keep thinking. Dixieflash
 
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Old 03-11-09, 07:57 AM
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Well, can't find any info..just like my old one. I'm thinking it still may be something with the up and down limit switches. Or the actual logic card inside.

If you haven't already, you may need to open the cover and make sure the ground(?) is getting all the way to the board when the limit switches are activated. And that there is no ground when they aren't.

As I said, also unplug the opener for an hour or so, this will sometimes reset logic faults on the board.

Otherwise it sounds like you may have a faulty board. There isn't much to the older openers. Mine is still working fine or I would have been looking at Christmas sales.

Personally, I wouldn't spend any money to fix it, even if you can find the parts. The newer ones have more features and safety built in, and really aren't that expensive. Seems like someone is always having a sale.
 
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Old 03-28-09, 04:04 PM
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Still can't find the problem with the Genie Model 90

1/3rd hp garage door operator. Checked and cleaned contacts
on both limit switches. They are working.

As I said, there are no obstruction photo cells - if the door meets resistance on lowering, it automatically raises. Have adjusted this clutch with no change.

Checked the coil on the "reluctor" (what does this do??) and it is okay.

Pulled the circuit board and inspected for cold solder joints, etc - none found. There are three boxes on the board - I suspect these are relays. Could be a bad one. The number on the board appears to be W-26000 A, Rev 0. Could be 28000,
can't be sure.

Please, somebody help me. Anybody got a good board?

Tnx, Dixieflash
 
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Old 03-28-09, 04:43 PM
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Dixie...time for a new unit I'd guess..it is 18 y/o....most cars, lawn mowers, etc don't last that long.

I understand making things last..but safety and convenience are taking the lead here. Time ofr a new opener. Check a Sears repair center if you have one around you. Fathers day is coming up as well, always on sale then.
 
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Old 03-29-09, 04:42 PM
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Replacement would be a snap, except

this door is on a floating boathouse and only accessible by climbing onto and standing on the bow of my boat. If I could only replace the operating unit and leave the screw and all it wouldn't be too hard. I forget, does the operating unit easily disconnect from the screw or is it all one piece?

I think the problem is a relay on the circuit board. Are good used or new boards available, and if so, where? Think Sears might have one? Or the local O/H door people? l begin search tomorrow morning.

The motor runs fine, the screw is fine, the door raises fine - it just won't lower. Even thinking about rewiring it for a manual up/down switch. Remote, etc is nice but could do without.

Thanks. Dixieflash
 
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Old 03-30-09, 02:11 PM
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It sounds like your up limit switch is defective. When it raises it hits a small paddle that shuts down the motor and the relay changes so that the next time it is energized it will go in the opposite direction. I think the 'brain' is not getting the message and so it continues to open the door. There is also a paddle that is hit when the door goes down. I think it is a spring arm that contacts them. You should be able to figure out what is broken or maybe missing.
 
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Old 03-30-09, 04:09 PM
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Limit Switches, UP and Down are okay

Donald, I cleaned and checked both of the limit switches with
the ohmmeter. They contact ground when activated.

The circuit board is NLA, naturally, after all these years. I got a Raynor board from a friendly installer and removed two good
relays from it and replaced the UP and DN relays on my board.
Tomorrow I will see if that works. One of my relays would not
operate when I tested them. HOPE I got it! Thanks. Dixieflash
 
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Old 11-30-14, 04:14 PM
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it's the contacts in the relays on the board

I realize that this thread is ancient, but I just had similar problems and want to leave a solution for anyone hitting on this page in future ages.

The board in question (I believe it is the same board as mine) has three electromechanical relays that control the AC functions the built-in lights and the up and down motor windings. These relays are in ~3/4-inch plastic cubes mounted near the connector. The relay contacts over time get dirty and burned and eventually won't conduct the AC necessary for lights or motor. Thankfully, they can be cleaned.

Remove the connector from the board and slide the board out of its mounting bracket. Now, *carefully* pop the plastic covers off of the relays. There you will see the fine copper winding on the coil, and above that the armature, and at the tip of the armature you will see the contacts that need to be cleaned. Lightly spray the contacts with some contact cleaner. (Do not use oil or gasoline or anything that will soften the plastics or dissolve the enamel on the coil windings!) Very *gently* move the contact surfaces against each other while they are moist with the contact cleaner. Replace the covers over the relays, re-insert the board into its mounting bracket, re-attach the connector. With some luck you will be back in business.
 
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Old 11-30-14, 08:53 PM
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Thanks for the additional information. This thread, like all of our threads, will remain in the archives for future reference. If you have additional questions.... feel free to start a new thread.
 
 

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