cpacitors
#1
cpacitors
I have a powered subwoofer that was clicking and popping, so I assumed it was a capacitor problem. Sure enough there were 3 leaking caps in the board. It would be easy enough to replace them if I can match them.
They look like off the shelf stuff, but I don't know if matching the capacitance, voltage and temperature printed on them is good enough.
They are:
10 uf 35v 105 degree
100 uf 16v 105 d
2200 uf 100v 105 d vent
Each has a stripe on one side (indicating polarity?)
These look like the first two:
Cornell-Dubilier - SK100M035ST - Allied Electronics
Cornell-Dubilier - SEK101M016ST - Allied Electronics
The third is trickier. I can't find anything that's "vented". Mine has a sort of "hole" at the bottom end. This seems close:
https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...SLP222M100C4P3
but the image isn't the same (maybe they're using a generic image) but the specs are the same.
The question is: If I match the 3 specs - capacitance, voltage and temp, is that a match or is there more to it?
They look like off the shelf stuff, but I don't know if matching the capacitance, voltage and temperature printed on them is good enough.
They are:
10 uf 35v 105 degree
100 uf 16v 105 d
2200 uf 100v 105 d vent
Each has a stripe on one side (indicating polarity?)
These look like the first two:
Cornell-Dubilier - SK100M035ST - Allied Electronics
Cornell-Dubilier - SEK101M016ST - Allied Electronics
The third is trickier. I can't find anything that's "vented". Mine has a sort of "hole" at the bottom end. This seems close:
https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...SLP222M100C4P3
but the image isn't the same (maybe they're using a generic image) but the specs are the same.
The question is: If I match the 3 specs - capacitance, voltage and temp, is that a match or is there more to it?
#2
Member
Hi Norm, Capacitors have pages of specifications but determining if any of them, beyond what you see, are important is impossible without the design specifications. Match what you see and you are good to go.
Two more things. While you are in there, re-solder the leads on any heat related components. Example: a power resistor heats and cools thousands of times over the years and although it never gets hot enough to melt solder, micro-cracks develop in a small circle around the lead to solder connection. The other is look for additional capacitors. The ones you are replacing have failed due to heat, the arch enemy of electrolytics. Thus all other similar caps are usually on their way to failure. Besides, most are only pennies to buy. One visual indicator of a bad cap is the plastic covering shrinking and pulling away from the center and down over the sides, it is getting hot.
If one of the caps you replace fails again, sooner than it should, then you start looking for a better cap.
Try to keep your electronics cool, well vented and clean and you will reduce the heat factor.
Good Luck (living in NJ you need it) LOL
Bud
Two more things. While you are in there, re-solder the leads on any heat related components. Example: a power resistor heats and cools thousands of times over the years and although it never gets hot enough to melt solder, micro-cracks develop in a small circle around the lead to solder connection. The other is look for additional capacitors. The ones you are replacing have failed due to heat, the arch enemy of electrolytics. Thus all other similar caps are usually on their way to failure. Besides, most are only pennies to buy. One visual indicator of a bad cap is the plastic covering shrinking and pulling away from the center and down over the sides, it is getting hot.
If one of the caps you replace fails again, sooner than it should, then you start looking for a better cap.
Try to keep your electronics cool, well vented and clean and you will reduce the heat factor.
Good Luck (living in NJ you need it) LOL
Bud
Last edited by Bud9051; 03-22-09 at 05:54 AM. Reason: addition
#4
The stripe does indicate polarity if it's a series of arrows and + signs. Make sure the new caps are polarized and are connected the same as the old.
(Jersey bashing ain't no thing ... if you live in Buffalo!)
(Jersey bashing ain't no thing ... if you live in Buffalo!)
#6
Well Mr. Brilliant does it again.
I've learned never to disassemble anything without making a rough drawing first, which I did. Then I lost it.
I've found a schematic and figure I have enough to reassemble things, but I just want to confirm one thing. The stripe on one side is marked with 0 and/or u. That's negative, right?
I've learned never to disassemble anything without making a rough drawing first, which I did. Then I lost it.
I've found a schematic and figure I have enough to reassemble things, but I just want to confirm one thing. The stripe on one side is marked with 0 and/or u. That's negative, right?
#7
Hey...try the tile forum..I don't think they think much of "Jersey mud jobs" over there...lol.
As I've said before..I read all the threads, even if I don't post.
As I've said before..I read all the threads, even if I don't post.
#9
What? What? What did I say...?
Oh, you mean when I said "even if I don't post"? Well, not in all of them...lol.
But..TY, I believe I will!
Oh, you mean when I said "even if I don't post"? Well, not in all of them...lol.
But..TY, I believe I will!
#10
haha, did you post your reply in the wrong thread, or am I just slow? Capacitors and Jersey Mud jobs?
Whoooooooooppppppppp....I see the OP is from Jersey.......I think I need Beer 4U2
Whoooooooooppppppppp....I see the OP is from Jersey.......I think I need Beer 4U2
#11
RE Losing the drawing: I know your pain. I took a laptop apart and put all of the assorted tiny screws on a piece of white paper. I meticulously labelled the paper to indicate where the screws go. When I got up from the table my sleeve caught the paper and scattered the screws.
#13
Thanks, Rick. Confirmed.
My performances usually lean toward the incredibly stupid, as opposed to the unlucky. How about this:
Rebuilding a desktop. All is well. Installing software. Have a new copy of (can't remember) on a sealed CD. Just open the envelope and ... Hey. There's a utility knife handy. Just score the label over the flap and ... Oh oh. That's the downward side of the disk I JUST SCORED!
You know, we should start a whole new thread of "Stupid sh** I have done".
My performances usually lean toward the incredibly stupid, as opposed to the unlucky. How about this:
Rebuilding a desktop. All is well. Installing software. Have a new copy of (can't remember) on a sealed CD. Just open the envelope and ... Hey. There's a utility knife handy. Just score the label over the flap and ... Oh oh. That's the downward side of the disk I JUST SCORED!
You know, we should start a whole new thread of "Stupid sh** I have done".