Home Entertainment T.V. cable, Power, and Speaker cable routing

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Old 02-24-13, 04:04 PM
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Home Entertainment T.V. cable, Power, and Speaker cable routing

About to frame wall for entertainment center; T.V., Streaming box, Rec'r, Power, and would like to eliminate as much of the spegetti wiring as possible. Preface by admitting I flunked graphic art so the diag. I am posting leaves much to be desired but hopefully sufficient enough to get an idea of what I am trying to do. I am considering mounting 2 double gang box, one for the speaker wire connectors, and another to power the electronic equipment. Also intend mounting a 32-45" T.V. and though I would mount 2 single gang boxes higher, and closer to the T.V. ? I am not sure what to do about the Coaxial cable junction, perhaps a panel of some type??? Before I start drilling holes in the studs I thought I would check with other members who may have some experience and suggestions.

Thank you, dave

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nmentcable.jpg
 
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Old 02-24-13, 05:43 PM
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Basically the only thing you have to worry about separation with is the power cable. You want it 12-16" away from any coax, A/V, speaker, or network cables. If they absolutely must cross paths, do so at 90 degree angles. Do not run it parallel in close proximity. The coax, speaker, A/V and network can all run bundled together.

Ideally, you should run everything to the lower level boxes. Then install a 2 1/2" dia PVC pipe in the wall between the TV level and the lower level. Use "Brushie" style plates to cover the holes. This way, you can add/delete cables between the TV and equipment as needed in the future, and it is much cheaper than configuring and wiring a pair of Keystone plates with a bunch of connectors.



As for TV power, you can install a standard outlet there, preferably on the other side of the stud cavity. It can either be wired normally, or you can wire it to an inlet plate at the lower level, which would allow you to connect it to your surge protector/UPS with the rest of your equipment. You CAN NOT run a power cord through the pipe.

As for your cable and network terminations at the other end, you can either get "structured wiring" panels, which are designed with configurable modules for cable, network, phone, whole home audio, etc and get mounted flush to the wall like a breaker panel.. Or if it will be in a utility room or other 'non visually appealing' area, you can accomplish the same effect (for a lot less money) by attaching splitters and patch panels to a square of plywood screwed to the wall, and being neat with your cabling and layout.
 
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Old 02-24-13, 06:34 PM
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Those plates Matt illustrated are great. It is extremely hard to use an actual connector type plate because the terminations on the rear don't fit within the confines of a box.
 
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Old 02-24-13, 06:44 PM
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Life is good, this is new and it did not dawn on me media plates that allowed the cables to extend out of the cover, now I am getting excited, this is not going to be as labor intensive as I imagined, and yes max, wondered how I was going to make the connections in such a tight space. I like the cover plate in the pic!! The comments regarding the routing and separation of cables very helpful, can't thank you's enough.
 
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Old 02-24-13, 08:27 PM
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If I'm using Keystone plates I normally don't use boxes either. I just use the orange low-voltage frames, then you don't have issues with kinking the cables and breaking connectors while stuffing it all in. Just gotta be careful of the vapor barrier if it's an old-work install on an insulated wall though.

You would use the same frames for the brushie plates too, since you won't find any boxes designed for a 2 1/2" pipe.. Just strap the pipe to the stud (tightly, so it doesn't slip down), and cut your holes just above and below the ends. When you need to insert another cable, just stick it downward through the brush into the pipe until you can grab it at the bottom.

For your permanent wiring like the speakers, sub, cable, phone, and network, I would use connector plates for those though. Reason is you aren't likely to ever need to change them, even if you upgrade equipment (there may be new connections in the future that need to be used between the TV and receiver, which is why you use the pipe, but speaker, cable, and network connections will remain constant). There are pre-made 5.1 and 7.1 plates that fit in a 2 or 3 gang LV frame. Cable, network, and phone you can make up a Keystone plate.

 
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Old 02-24-13, 10:14 PM
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Matt, If understand correctly, depending upon number gang box I would use this type bracket and mount it to the stud, and the bracket ears, particularly with the larger gang box, can be used to support the bracket against the drywall. I would then secure a pipe just above, or below the bracket and route the cable thru the pipe???

Posting pic as example only. There's an electronics company I assume should have a selection of low voltage box and cover plates intend checking out in next few day, probly best to select now before framing so I can space studs accordingly.

Amazon.com: Brand New 2-Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket for New Construction: Electronics

Again, the info just gets better, lots of food for thought, I thank you!!!.
 
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Old 02-24-13, 10:59 PM
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Yes sir. That is the 'new construction' style that attaches to the studs. There is also an 'old work' style that you punch through the drywall after it is up. Honestly I like the old work ones better - even in new construction - because their 'flag mounts' are a bit more secure, it is much easier to cut the holes accurately after the drywall is up, and you can easily install several of them in a stud cavity.

You don't need to adjust your stud spacing, leave them at 16"OC. If you want to use 'new construction' brackets, what you can do is either install them on opposite sides of a stud, or you can install 'bridges'.. Install two horizontal pieces of 2x4 (think fireblocks) between two studs at the level you want the plates to be, and install a vertical piece of 2x4 at the center of the horizontal pieces. This will give you a place to install up to two more brackets without having to install a full extra stud.. Just keep in mind you will not be able to use this method for the brush/pipe plate.. That will have to be above the bridge or in the next stud cavity).

I would suggest you get those brackets directly from Monoprice.. They're a couple bucks less apiece when you factor in the shipping. I'd suggest getting your cables and plates from them too while you're at it (their cables are a ton cheaper than anything you find in a store and the same quality). They don't seem to have the brush plates, but they have a different style (scoops) which work just as well..

Audio/Video Wall Plates - Monoprice.com
 
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Old 02-25-13, 01:57 AM
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Plan on framing the wall as originally intended. Never had an occasion to use the 'old style' bracket, was under the impression stud mounts would be more secure than the flag mounts, and as for bracket location the flag mounts certainly provides a number of options. Appreciate providing a source for the material, I prefer keeping the shopping stress level to a minimum and let my fingers to the shopping. Yet again, can't thank enough!!!.
 
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