Wall mounting a TV

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Old 03-30-14, 09:37 PM
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Wall mounting a TV

I'm trying to mount my Samsung UN40EH5300F TV to the wall with a mount I've bought. On the back of the TV there are very few screw holes to which I can bolt the mount, and none of them are in the right positions.

But there are a number of what I can best describe as dimples which look to be in suitable positions, so I am guessing that they are threaded holes covered with the plastic of the TV casing, and that I can just screw into them.

However, I know nothing at all about this sort of thing and was wondering if I could get some advise from others who do know a bit as to whether my guess is likely to be correct, before I start trying to screw bolts into the back of the TV.

Thanks for any advice or tips.
 
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Old 03-31-14, 12:27 AM
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I did find that your TV is Vesa 400 x 400 Wall Mount compatible. That means that there are four threaded holes in the back of your TV that are setup for the bracket. You should need 6MM mounting screws for the bracket.

I'm not quite sure where the holes actually are. I downloaded a picture of the back of your TV and I don't see the 400x400 hole pattern for bracket mounting. Actually, I see the pattern but not the threaded inserts. Possibly they have rubber plugs in the hole ?

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Usually TV's have a pattern that looks like the picture below.

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Old 03-31-14, 08:32 AM
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Thank you. Now that you say that, I had a look at the TV back and, yes, there are four threaded holes there. They currently have screws in them to which the strap that anchors the TV to the cabinet it's sitting on is attached (so that it can't tip over forward). It's funny - they're not shown in the picture you posted, but once I took the strap off, they are quite visible and should be in the picture as well.

But now that you've pointed out what I should be looking for, I'll be all good.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 03-31-14, 11:22 AM
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You're welcome.

Be sure to use the short screws. You don't want a screw going thru the LCD screen.
(Don't ask me how I know about screw length. )
 
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Old 03-31-14, 11:35 AM
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Samsung have just emailed me and said:

"I see that according to VESSA specifications the VESSA screw hole specifications are 200X200and the screw size are M8 (15mm). I see that the screw holes are not at correct positions, so the unit needs to be examined by a certified technician."

What does that mean? From what you say the holes should be usable - but from what they say, they're not?
 
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Old 03-31-14, 02:24 PM
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I went to Samsung and looked up your exact model number that you posted above. If you go to the link below and look at accessory you'll see the following info.....

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200x200 would be small for a 40" TV. I thought that maybe I was looking at a TV for sale in the States but I think the UN prefix means non-US. While LN would be a TV for here.

40" LED 1080p Smart TV - Built in WiFi - Smart Hub | Samsung UN40EH5300F

 
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Old 03-31-14, 05:24 PM
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My 42" HannSpree uses 200x200.. But it's odd they would contradict their own spec like that.. Then again CSRs are not exactly renowned for their intelligence..
 
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Old 03-31-14, 05:43 PM
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Actually UN = LED Backlit and LN = CCFL Backlit
 
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Old 03-31-14, 05:51 PM
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So if the TV has 200x200, it won't work on a mount that needs 400x400, right?
 
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Old 03-31-14, 06:03 PM
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Thanks CB

Correct.... that number is how far apart the screws are in mm's.
 
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Old 03-31-14, 08:19 PM
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I've just got home and had a look at the mount itself. The user manual says that it's 200 x 100 to 600 x 400 - VESA COMPLIANT.

From that I guess it will (or should) work on a 200 x 200 TV, right? Or should I try to find one that is specifically 200 x 200?
 
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Old 03-31-14, 08:25 PM
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It sounds like that mount should work. Try lining up the bracket(s) with the mounting holes.
 
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Old 04-01-14, 10:22 AM
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For the most part, the rail-style mounts are 'backwards inclusive'. Meaning if it's designed for up to 600x600, it SHOULD have enough holes in the vertical braces to also do 400x400, 400x200, 200x200, etc.

The problem becomes if it is much larger than the pattern on your TV, there's a good chance that the braces or rail will overshoot the sides of the TV and you'll be able to see it from the front.
 
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Old 04-01-14, 10:57 AM
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Okay, I'll be wary of that before I get it up. But it is a pretty big screen, so I'm hoping that they won't overshoot.
 
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Old 04-01-14, 12:09 PM
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Keep in mind, while you consider 40" a pretty big screen, the 600x600 pattern is used on panels 75" and up..
 
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Old 04-01-14, 12:22 PM
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hmm....good point.

Are there mounts out there specifically made for smaller (like 200x200) screens?
 
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Old 04-01-14, 11:48 PM
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If the mount you bought says it's for a 40" screen then the brackets will not be longer then the screen.
 
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Old 04-02-14, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax View Post
If the mount you bought says it's for a 40" screen then the brackets will not be longer then the screen.
I guarantee you it doesn't. 600mm is a shade under 24 inches.. Meaning the absolute shortest the verticals can be is 25". A 40" 16:9 panel (not taking the bezel into account) is 20" tall.

According to the spec sheet you linked to, TV without stand: 36.5" x 21.7" x 3.7".. So the bracket will overshoot by at least an inch and a half top and bottom

Budfudder - yes there are all sorts of mounts out there. My suggestion is to get one that maxes at 400x400, because that will give you room to go larger later.

I buy mine from Monoprice. They have great prices (even taking shipping into account) and the mounts are very well built.

Wall Mount Brackets - Monoprice.com

This is the one I have myself: Adjustable Tilting/Swiveling TV Wall Mount Bracket for LCD LED Plasma Corner Friendly (Max 110 lbs, 32~50 inch), BLACK - Monoprice.com

I'm using it on a 42" with a 200x200 spacing - but it will also do 400x200 and 400x400.
 
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Old 04-02-14, 09:26 PM
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JerseyMatt, are you happy with the one you have? Any problems with it? Was it relatively easy to install?
 
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Old 04-02-14, 10:13 PM
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Yup, I love it. They are super simple to install (there is even a built-in level, but I use my 3ft level when mounting them anyway). The only catch is with this kind of mount you MUST hit two studs in the wall in order to support it - so buy a studfinder if you don't already have one. Articulating mounts put a whole lot of stress on the base plate when they are fully extended, so you can't just mount it to one stud and run four toggles into the drywall. And these suckers are definitely built to last too.. It weighs probably more than the TV you'll be hanging on it!

What I really like about this one is (and you may not see any benefit to it, but it works fantastic in my mancave) that the TV can be pulled out from the wall almost 3 feet, and swiveled 180 degrees, so I can give the best view no matter where people are sitting
 
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Old 04-02-14, 10:45 PM
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Here's some pics of what I'm talking about..

Fully collapsed against the wall:



Fully extended:



And as I said, this is a 42" TV with a 200x200 pattern.. It's odd, but it does happen.. But I do have the longer rails so I can go bigger later on.

 
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Old 04-02-14, 10:52 PM
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I'm just looking at the specs - and it says minimum VESA is 400x200. You've said you're using it on a 200x200 - so is what the spec says just wrong?

My studs are 16" apart - will that distance work?
 
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Old 04-02-14, 10:58 PM
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Yeah the spec is wrong. While you were typing your post I added pictures..

And yes, it is designed to mount perfectly to two 16" OC studs. The outer holes on the base plate are exactly 16" apart.
 
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Old 04-07-14, 09:13 PM
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Mine came today - same model as yours, JerseyMatt. Sadly, it's missing two (2) different sets of washers, according to the directions. I'll contact the sellers and see if they can provide the missing ones.

How many screws are holding your mount up? That is, how many screws into the wall? It comes with 7, but I figure I'll only be able to get 5 into studs.
 
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Old 04-09-14, 12:45 AM
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Sorry yours is missing parts, that's a rarity for Monoprice.. What washers are they? For the wall side or the TV side? There are two different sizes of the TV ones too, so make sure the missing ones are ones you actually need.. Monoprice will send out missing parts no problem, but rather than wait for them, you can pick them up at Home Depot for about 5 apiece..

I used 8 lags to fasten mine to the wall, but only because it is mounted to brick, and I wanted to spread the load to as many bricks as possible. If you're going into studs, you seriously only need 4 - one at each corner. You can do 6 if you want, the holes at the middle of each end are also 16" apart.
 
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Old 04-09-14, 09:06 AM
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One of the missing sets of washers is the ones for the wall side, the other for the TV side - the TV side ones are to prevent side slippage (ie., they don't actually go on the TV screw).

Okay, mine's going into studs, so I'll probably use 5.

Thanks a lot for your help and advice, Matt.
 
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Old 04-09-14, 04:29 PM
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Oh my god I couldn't figure out what you meant by using 5 screws instead of 6 and the washers that prevent side to side slippage.. I just realized I posted the wrong link to what I have.. I am so sorry if it turns out to not fit your TV, because the one I linked to does say 400x200 in the spec, while the right one says it'll do down to 50x50.. Looking at the pictures though you MIGHT be able to get the vertical bars inside that center box with some fiddling.. If you can't though you can use some 8" angle irons to adapt the TV to 400x200..

This is the one I meant to link to.. Adjustable Tilting/Swiveling TV Wall Mount Bracket for LCD LED Plasma - Corner Friendly (Max 125 lbs, 32~60 inch) (REV.2.0) - Monoprice.com
 
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Old 04-15-14, 08:29 PM
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JerseyMatt:

Okay, so I finally got the correct mount (Monoprice very good about it) and started to install it. And the tip of the second bolt snapped off inside the hole. The bolt was maybe half an inch in and all of a sudden stopped biting. I pulled it out and the tip was gone.

Am I correct in thinking that there's not much I can do about that except to move where I was going to mount it by a couple of inches and drill some new holes?

Incidentally, the instructions say to drill a 5/32" hole - that seems awfully small for the size of the screws. Do you remember it being difficult to screw them in with a hole that small?
 
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Old 04-15-14, 09:20 PM
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And the tip of the second bolt snapped off inside the hole.
I've heard of a bolt snapping and the hex head snapping off but I have NEVER heard of the starting end of the lag snap off.

You should be able to put those bolts in almost all the way in without drilling. The reason you drill a hole is to help the bolt start, go in easier and keeps the beam from splitting.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 09:41 PM
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Then what am I doing wrong? As I said, I drilled a 5/32" hole and the bolts that did go in were VERY hard to get there - it took a lot of effort to get them in. I can't imagine trying to do it without having the hole pre-drilled.

The instructions specified a 3" deep (the length of the bolts) hole.
 
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Old 04-15-14, 11:31 PM
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I have to agree with PJ, I've snapped a few lags in my day, but never at the tip, it's usually at the collar under the hex right where the threads start (the weakest point).. Were you using a wrench or a ratchet to screw them in.. I suppose if you got off kilter with a wrench after the tip started biting it could have added stress and snapped it.. There could also be a knot in the stud, knots are pretty good at locking up a lag to the point where you can snap it. For what its worth you're supposed to use a ratchet or an impact driver (that's what I use because I install them on a regular basis) because it is easier to keep the force centered over the plane of the bolt, which helps it drive straight in..

If the other three are already in, I would say as long as the one that broke isn't the top one on the hinge side, just use the middle hole on that side rather than unbolt and move it. If it IS the top bolt on the hinge side, then I would move it up or down an inch and drill now holes.

It is supposed to be a lot of work to get the bolts in.. That's what gives the base its strength, because the threads are biting hard into the wood. If you are afraid of snapping another one, you can go up to a 3/16" pilot hole without compromising the strength of the bolt. It also helps to lightly scrape the threads across a bar of soap a couple times. The soap acts as a lubricant.
 

Last edited by JerseyMatt; 04-16-14 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 04-16-14, 08:20 AM
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Thanks a lot, Matt. I was actually using what I'd call a shifting spanner - I'm not sure what it's called here in America. An adjustable wrench? I can easily believe that with that I got slightly off center and thus snapped the point of the screw.
 
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