Concealing Wires, panel behind mounted flat panel, and panel near Receiver


Old 04-18-14, 06:39 AM
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Concealing Wires, panel behind mounted flat panel, and panel near Receiver

Hello all!

I have an exposed ceiling,

I have run cable to 7 placeholders for speakers in my ceiling, for an asssumed 7.1 or 7.2 system. The cables pass behind my wall and will lead to a speaker connection plate. Right now, the only hole in the wall is where I plan to mount my tv, there is a 1 Gang electrical outlet and my speaker wires hanging out of the hole.

My thought is that behind the TV there should be the power, 1 Hdmi in, 1 coax in, 1 RCA in (the coax an rca for if I don't have receiver )

Below the tv closer to the ground (this hole doesn't exist yet) I thought there would be a panel with 2 panels for my speaker inputs, 1 hdmi out, 1 cable out, 1 RCA out, 1 cable in and a 2 Gang Electical outlet. This panel would connect to the panel behind the tv. I would like to have an in wall sub, but i don't want to put a placeholder for that i'll have to just wait for the sub.

Does this all sound correct or am I missing something? More Hdmi, missing connection

Behind TV
| | | == Hdmi in
| O Coax in
| | | O O O RCA in

Below TV
| Ceiling Speakers Power Pluges
| O O O O == Hdmi out | | | |
| O O O O O Coax out
| O O O O | | | |
| O O O (Sub) OOO RCA in

I'm assuming i'll have a receiver
The "place holders" are 18 cu eletrical boxes i ran speaker wire through. Once I have speakers, i'll drill the whole for the speaker, remove the placeholder and run the prewired cable to the speaker. I don't want to miss anything I'll be so mad if i close up the ceiling and wall before running everything I should run.
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Old 04-18-14, 03:53 PM
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Don't use boxes for the low voltage stuff. There's absolutely no reason for it and all it does is create aggravation. Use low voltage frames.

The speaker terminals will require at the very least two gangs by themselves. The better organized plates need three.

And my suggestion is while you SHOULD use premade plates or Keystones for the 'fixed' wiring like the speakers/cable/satellite/network/phone jacks, DO NOT use termination plates for any of the cables that run between the TV and the lower box. Strap a length of 2 1/2" PVC pipe to the stud between the holes and use "brushie" plates at each hole. That way you can easily insert and remove cables as needed in the future without having to mess with fish tape when a connection is obsoleted or a plug is damaged.

**PLEASE NOTE** You CAN NOT run the TV's power cord through the pipe. You must still install a receptacle behind the TV or use an approved pass-through method.

Old 04-20-14, 05:34 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
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Depending upon where your audio/video components are going to be located you may want to consider what method you are going to use to send IR signals to them.

Some of the new smart TV's with touch pad remotes use Blue Tooth output (not IR), but have an output on the back of the TV that provides IR signal output. The TV's come with a "IR Blaster" with a couple of foot cord that's plugged into the back of the TV that you are supposed to put in your audio cabinet. If it's too far away, you can use (purchase) an audio stereo extender cable long enough to reach between your TV and your audio cabinet. (male on one end, female on the other end) This allows your TV's remote to control your cable/Sat box. However, the TV remote is not a universal remote so you still may need a path (wire) for an IR extender to send IR signals from your other remotes to your audio/BluRay/CD/Tivo/ etc devices if they are not in direct view of where you sit to watch TV. Another (more expensive)alternative is to use a universal remote with both an RF and IR output and use an RF to IR converter in the cabinet.
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