They appear to be as they were made, nothing broken, but they suck and let the wires just fall out under a little tug. Can these be replaced easily or fixed?
And I have tried folding the wires to double their diameter to no avail
Probably not easy to replace. You might be able to get the terminal block assembly from the manufacturer, but it likely is soldered to a circuit board in the unit.
You could try using a small hook to reach in and bend the spring contacts a little so they apply more pressure when the lever is released.
You could also try doubling up the stripped end of the wire (bend it back on itself and ideally apply solder to form a larger diameter wire end.
Another option is to use heavier gauge speaker wire so the wire is fatter and holds better in the spring contacts.
A final option it to crimp or solder a spade or ring terminal to each wire to provide more area for the spring contacts to hold onto.
One last tip would be to make sure there is a little slack in the cables (perhaps tie wrap them to something) so the wires aren't tugging on the connection.
thanks. yeah they're not the "spring" type. they just open and close manually. what I'm thinking of using is those little tin/lead? crimps for the ends of bicycle brake/shift cables. might be too fat though.
It sounds like the wires aren't going far enough into the jack housing.
Those snap type clips are almost like Wagos and usually hold very well.
Panasonic K4AC08B00012 speaker jack assy. Discontinued and no longer listed in parts listings.
It is one block and is soldered into the amplifier board.
Although several companies used that almost same exact jack... I can't find them.
You could use the uxcell blocks but it would take some modification and wiring work. Two row 8 way uxcell speaker connectors
Are you having trouble with just the 2 wires shown? Maybe you could remove one of the wires that are attached good and see how far they are stripped. Most I have seen the clamp goes on bare wire only no insulation in clamp.
I used to have a receiver with those connectors. JUNK. Mine broke, I believe after using wires that had the ends tinned. Soldering the filaments of the conductor together made the wire act like a solid conductor. When I flipped the plastic lever down the wire couldn't conform and broke the plastic hold down lever. I broke about half before realizing.
The receiver was really old so I went for a cheap (no cost) fix I could implement with what I had on hand. I opened up the cabinet and removed the junk connector block. Then I soldered short leads of wire onto the circuit board inside where the connector block used to mate. I ran the wires out through the hole left by the old connector block. At first I used household wire nuts to connect my speaker wires but I eventually added spade connectors so I could more easily hook/unhook the wires.
If the wire will go in 1/4 inch the strip it back just over 1/2 inch.
Then fold the wire (just the wire not the insulation) back on itself and twist it together,
The metal jaws should be on bare metal not insulation.
Open the jaws with the tab , insert the wire then gently close the jaws onto the wire with the tab.
Here's a different device, an Onkyo receiver with a broken one. Found a few garbage receivers but they had only three speaker plates. Kept digging around and found this wall plate which happens to match the fit perfect. So must be a standard. Found another four speaker terminal plate which was a little smaller.
Oh yeah, those, from the Panasonic. Actually they're okay, but I think it was you who revealed you might just have to insert the wire in deeper and you're right. So just a bit more finicky than these spring ones.
The Panasonic is a sweet receiver. Well it's just the only one that has the separate rear /surround speaker receiver I have so I'm keeping it.
So this is a problem I haven't been able to figure out with our congregations sound system.
The sound system basically consists of microphones an Amplifier and computer, video camera, and also broadcast our live services on Zoom.
When you turn on just the Amplifier, all is quiet, as it should be. But when you start up the computer, you immediately start to get a hum and periodic static that starts quietly but gets more audible as the computer boots up.
All the sound/computer electronic 110v devices are plugged into a power conditioner. The amp is grounded, and that ground plugs into the power conditioner.
The hum and static have nothing to do with our microphones... all inputs are turned to zero (except the Master) and we still get the hum and static. Unplugging items from the amp and/or computer does not change the static. The only thing that seems to affect it is when you touch the ground wire that goes from the amp to the power conditioner.
So what does this point to? A bad ground at the electric panel maybe? Ground loop somehow? Static electric interference from the computer? I'm stumped.
02-27-23, 07:15 PM
