How and where to replace a transformer on a control unit of a treadmill?


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Old 09-08-23, 08:03 PM
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How and where to replace a transformer on a control unit of a treadmill?

Hello,

I have a used treadmill that I bought a couple of years ago. It worked fine until a power outage burned up the transformer and a capacitor. Not sure if I can replace the transformer and the capacitor instead of the whole unit. Do we have any retail store like RadioShack where those items are available? I looked around where I live and unable to find anything.

Please check the pics.
Thanks.


The make is PRO FORM XP 615 TRAINER
 

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10-07-23, 06:14 AM
z_johnq
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Hello folks, thanks to your help. The treadmill has come back to life! Everything looks fine now.
Take care!
John
 
  #2  
Old 09-08-23, 08:04 PM
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P.S. I apologyze if I didn't post it at the right place since I couldn't find any other categories that fit.
 
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Old 09-09-23, 02:34 AM
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I would contact pro form and see if they sell a replacement unit. If not, maybe someone has something after market. Generally speaking, I think the board gets replaced more often than components of it.
 
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Old 09-09-23, 05:54 AM
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This assumes electrical ratings are visible on the transformer and capacitor and a replacement is available on the web.. A replacement transformer (same voltage and equal or higher current) should have the same connection configuration if the transformer is soldered into the printed circuit board (PCB). Replacing capacitor (same ratings) is not a problem. A good soldering iron and a solder removal tool are essential to work on a PCB. An alternative, as others have suggested, is to purchase a new PCB from the treadmill manufacturer.
 
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Old 09-09-23, 06:13 AM
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Companies like Jameco.com or newark.com should have the parts you need. The difficult part will be properly identifying the specs for the components you need.
 
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Old 09-09-23, 06:34 AM
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The problem will be replacing the transformer. The capacitor is not a problem at all. It looks to be just a common .01 uF 1k volt ceramic disc capacitor.

However, there could very well be some other components on the PCB that are damaged.

 
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Old 09-10-23, 06:24 AM
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Hello guys, thanks for the tips.

Kooter, I agree with you about there might be other components that got damaged. I fixed my Hauslane above range hood with a damaged transformer and a capacitor. But it was easier because the transf. is separated and not on the control board. The control board and the transf. together only cost about 30 bucks.
Let me try what Pilot Dane recommended, Jameco.com and see what happens. Will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys.
John
 
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Old 09-10-23, 08:31 AM
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Very doubtful that it is just a transformer and that capacitor.

The fastest fuse on a board is usually a transistor or IC.

Also the electrolytic capacitor on the upper left looks bad (cap is blown upwards)
 
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Old 09-10-23, 09:28 AM
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A used replacement Motor Control board in good condition is available HERE on eBay for $125 which may be the best and least expensive choice considering the transformer is likely unavailable and difficult to replace on the PCB , and you don't know what other parts, especially ICs, may be destoyed.

Chances are good the seller will take a lower price if offered...

 

Last edited by Kooter; 09-10-23 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 09-10-23, 06:14 PM
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@ Kooter - Thanks for mentioning the model number.
That part is not a cap.... it's an MOV.

I was able to find a replacement core board minus the transformer.
Apparently the transformers are an issue on that board.
The transformer is 115vac in and 16vac ct out @ 1.25A.
Still looking for a transformer.

There is a newer replacement board that uses an electronic switcher.... no power transformer.

@zJohn..... in your second picture..... it looks like the capacitor at the top of the board is bulged out.




 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-10-23 at 06:40 PM.
  #11  
Old 09-10-23, 07:32 PM
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Yeah, that PCB must have taken a surge to split open the MOV. That can be easily replaced but I suspect there's more damage than just the transformer's open winding and that MOV.

An MOV will be across the incoming supply and generally when it performs its job (or attempts to) it is destroyed, If this was a high voltage surge on the AC line then it probably took out one of the DC bridge components (diodes) in the process and likely a IC or two also.

As shown below that surge blew the guts right out of that MOV.






Here's the replacement MOV.

 

Last edited by Kooter; 09-10-23 at 07:58 PM.
  #12  
Old 09-24-23, 08:30 AM
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Hello guys, thanks for all the tips. I'd like take Kooter's suggestion and get the control board from Ebay. But I found one similar to what Kooter had found, and cheaper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36447419668...Cclp%3A4429486

I will ask the seller to make sure it fits.
Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-29-23, 10:02 PM
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Hi guys,
I got the replacement of the control board, from Ebay, at about 80 bucks, inc. shipping.

But I need your advice before the installation. On the first pic attached, inside the red circle, there are 4 'studs', if I may call them. But I am not sure which wire goes to which stud. The 2nd pic is the one I took before I was taking it apart, in case I forgot the connections. Still not detailed enough to jot down the 4 'studs'.

I don't have the diagram of the control board. Not sure if I can contact the manufacturer support to see if they can provide the diagram of circuit.

One more thing. From Kooter's pic, it's pretty clear that there is a small 'socket' next to the transformer and it's for incline motor; the part I got from Ebay has the same thing. But my burnout board has no socket, instead, it's like 3 needles at the same location. I doubt the old wire can fit. Can I bypass it? I don't use inclination anyway.

Any recommendations?
Thanks again.
John


 
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Old 09-30-23, 07:45 AM
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there is a small 'socket' next to the transformer and it's for incline motor; the part I got from Ebay has the same thing. But my burnout board has no socket, instead, it's like 3 needles at the same location. I doubt the old wire can fit. Can I bypass it? I don't use inclination anyway.
John - I would forget about the incline motor socket on the new board, in particular because you didn't have it on the burned-out board - plus you don't use that feature away. If the burned-out board didn't have it then you're not going to have a connector to plug into that socket anyway. I doubt not plugging anything into that socket is going to cause a problem.
 

Last edited by Kooter; 09-30-23 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 09-30-23, 07:49 AM
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inside the red circle, there are 4 'studs', if I may call them. But I am not sure which wire goes to which stud. The 2nd pic is the one I took before I was taking it apart, in case I forgot the connections. Still not detailed enough to jot down the 4 'studs'.
It should be the black cable connector to 'AC HOT' and the white cable connector to 'AC NEUT'.

Don't forget to reattach the ground wire Sta-kon ring terminal back to where it was.
 
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Old 09-30-23, 06:45 PM
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The white and black wires that are wrapped around the noise filter go to AC neutral and AC hot.
The other two terminals are labeled CB and should be connected to an external circuit breaker.
 
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Old 10-07-23, 06:14 AM
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Hello folks, thanks to your help. The treadmill has come back to life! Everything looks fine now.
Take care!
John
 
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