How and where to replace a transformer on a control unit of a treadmill?
Hello,
I have a used treadmill that I bought a couple of years ago. It worked fine until a power outage burned up the transformer and a capacitor. Not sure if I can replace the transformer and the capacitor instead of the whole unit. Do we have any retail store like RadioShack where those items are available? I looked around where I live and unable to find anything.
Please check the pics.
Thanks.
The make is PRO FORM XP 615 TRAINER
I would contact pro form and see if they sell a replacement unit. If not, maybe someone has something after market. Generally speaking, I think the board gets replaced more often than components of it.
This assumes electrical ratings are visible on the transformer and capacitor and a replacement is available on the web.. A replacement transformer (same voltage and equal or higher current) should have the same connection configuration if the transformer is soldered into the printed circuit board (PCB). Replacing capacitor (same ratings) is not a problem. A good soldering iron and a solder removal tool are essential to work on a PCB. An alternative, as others have suggested, is to purchase a new PCB from the treadmill manufacturer.
Companies like Jameco.com or newark.com should have the parts you need. The difficult part will be properly identifying the specs for the components you need.
The problem will be replacing the transformer. The capacitor is not a problem at all. It looks to be just a common .01 uF 1k volt ceramic disc capacitor.
However, there could very well be some other components on the PCB that are damaged.
Kooter, I agree with you about there might be other components that got damaged. I fixed my Hauslane above range hood with a damaged transformer and a capacitor. But it was easier because the transf. is separated and not on the control board. The control board and the transf. together only cost about 30 bucks.
Let me try what Pilot Dane recommended, Jameco.com and see what happens. Will keep you posted.
Thanks again guys.
John
A used replacement Motor Control board in good condition is available HERE on eBay for $125 which may be the best and least expensive choice considering the transformer is likely unavailable and difficult to replace on the PCB , and you don't know what other parts, especially ICs, may be destoyed.
Chances are good the seller will take a lower price if offered...
@ Kooter - Thanks for mentioning the model number.
That part is not a cap.... it's an MOV.
I was able to find a replacement core board minus the transformer.
Apparently the transformers are an issue on that board.
The transformer is 115vac in and 16vac ct out @ 1.25A.
Still looking for a transformer.
There is a newer replacement board that uses an electronic switcher.... no power transformer.
@zJohn..... in your second picture..... it looks like the capacitor at the top of the board is bulged out.
Yeah, that PCB must have taken a surge to split open the MOV. That can be easily replaced but I suspect there's more damage than just the transformer's open winding and that MOV.
An MOV will be across the incoming supply and generally when it performs its job (or attempts to) it is destroyed, If this was a high voltage surge on the AC line then it probably took out one of the DC bridge components (diodes) in the process and likely a IC or two also.
As shown below that surge blew the guts right out of that MOV.
Hello guys, thanks for all the tips. I'd like take Kooter's suggestion and get the control board from Ebay. But I found one similar to what Kooter had found, and cheaper:
Hi guys,
I got the replacement of the control board, from Ebay, at about 80 bucks, inc. shipping.
But I need your advice before the installation. On the first pic attached, inside the red circle, there are 4 'studs', if I may call them. But I am not sure which wire goes to which stud. The 2nd pic is the one I took before I was taking it apart, in case I forgot the connections. Still not detailed enough to jot down the 4 'studs'.
I don't have the diagram of the control board. Not sure if I can contact the manufacturer support to see if they can provide the diagram of circuit.
One more thing. From Kooter's pic, it's pretty clear that there is a small 'socket' next to the transformer and it's for incline motor; the part I got from Ebay has the same thing. But my burnout board has no socket, instead, it's like 3 needles at the same location. I doubt the old wire can fit. Can I bypass it? I don't use inclination anyway.
there is a small 'socket' next to the transformer and it's for incline motor; the part I got from Ebay has the same thing. But my burnout board has no socket, instead, it's like 3 needles at the same location. I doubt the old wire can fit. Can I bypass it? I don't use inclination anyway.
John - I would forget about the incline motor socket on the new board, in particular because you didn't have it on the burned-out board - plus you don't use that feature away. If the burned-out board didn't have it then you're not going to have a connector to plug into that socket anyway. I doubt not plugging anything into that socket is going to cause a problem.
inside the red circle, there are 4 'studs', if I may call them. But I am not sure which wire goes to which stud. The 2nd pic is the one I took before I was taking it apart, in case I forgot the connections. Still not detailed enough to jot down the 4 'studs'.
It should be the black cable connector to 'AC HOT' and the white cable connector to 'AC NEUT'.
Don't forget to reattach the ground wire Sta-kon ring terminal back to where it was.
The white and black wires that are wrapped around the noise filter go to AC neutral and AC hot.
The other two terminals are labeled CB and should be connected to an external circuit breaker.
there's only one aux port, am I able to sync my mp3s to this through iTunes?
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