Kenmore Dehumidifier Fan Stopped

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  #1  
Old 08-15-04, 02:18 PM
kenegg
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Question Kenmore Dehumidifier Fan Stopped

Hi, bought a 70 pint (or 50 cannot tell) Kenmore Dehumidifier via from a refurbisher via auction about a year ago. All was well until the fan seemed to be making a noise when it ran. Was fan and not compressor. Unfortunately, because it was set to run continuously to hold a specific humidity level (45%) it was often not on when I was in the basement. One day, noticed not running. Turned off unit waited long time 30-40 minutes, went back, turned on, compressor ran but fan never ran. I repeated this several times same result. Local Sears repair could not diagnose without sending out and charging.

First thought is the fan motor is out.

Any way to test?

I am considering removing fan in turbo housing and putting hot wire to either the high (black) or low (red) connector...

Can I use the end of an old lamp plug to test. Will I get shock?

I thought you Professionals may have a word of advise.

BTW I will look for another small appliance repair shop unless I can easily repair.

Thanks
:)
Ken
 
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  #2  
Old 08-17-04, 05:18 PM
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sounds like the bearings went out in the motor see if power is going to the motor, and if the fan motor is trying to turn. does sound like the motor is bad

yes, as long as it is a 115 volt motor you can try powering it with a cord, but would be easier to see if it is getting power
 
  #3  
Old 03-18-05, 05:49 AM
usrdhp
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Kenmore Dehumidifier

I have a similar unit with the same problem, has anyone found a cure for this?
 
  #4  
Old 03-18-05, 01:40 PM
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Wink

With Mike here . Id pull the motor out take it with me to a motor shop make sure you get the HP the RPM and if its CW or CCW. Grainger or johnstone supply should have them if you can buy from them. Try.

ED ;)
 
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Old 03-25-06, 07:58 AM
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I had the same problem. Took it to a local sears repair center. It was a bad fan. Unfortunately, they tried to soak me for $80 for the repair. $29 diagnostic fee which I had to pay upfront. Then they charged me another $50 for the repair.

This flies in the face of the giant "5-Year warrnaty" sticker that was on the box. The warranty only applies to the compressor I was told.

BOGUS!!! The friggin thing is still sitting at sears repair and will stay there until I have the time to call sears customer service and work out a more reasonable fee.

Do yourself a favor - if the fan is not working, just order a new one for $27 and install yourself.

I'm glad I saw your post though - this gives me more armor against sears. Since others are reporting fan failures there must be a design flaw or mfg defect affecting several units. Sears needs do better in order to keep me as a kenmore appliance customer.
 
  #6  
Old 06-04-06, 09:02 AM
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This must be a major defect, I replaced my fan this year, unit is about 18 months old. It's kinda harry getting everything off and back on, but about a 30-45 min. job.
 
  #7  
Old 06-05-06, 06:31 PM
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I went to kick mine on for the summer and same problem. It sounds like its running, but no air flow. Its the 70-qt and its only 3-4 years old.

Was looking into taking it to a Sears repair shop, but if its going to be $80, I'll see if I can figure it out myself. :madhell:
 
  #8  
Old 06-05-06, 06:37 PM
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I went to sears online then parts typed the model # and found the part, IT was 35 or 37 with shipping. It's a little tidious getting it out and back in but can be done. Be sure to clean the filter and brush the fins off good.
 
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Old 06-05-06, 06:51 PM
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I've been reading that a lot of people have had problems with the Kenmores (I have the 53701) and just went and bought the equivalent Maytag, which seems to have a lot of good reviews.
 
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Old 06-06-06, 04:47 PM
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Well, I've got the fan motor out, but I practically had to destroy the unit. One of the tabs of the black plastic piece in front of the fan that holds the piece in place broke off, I've got so may screws out and wires unrouted that I don't think I'll even remember how to get it all back in place, and the nut holding the fan to the motor was so fused on with whatever loc-tite they use that I ended up breaking the fan "spindle" off rather than getting the nut off. :wall:

I'm still going to hook the fan to a power supply to see if that was the problem, but I may just use that $30-40 towards the Maytag rather than try to salvage this thing. :madhell:

Is the Fedders one Home Depot sells made by Maytag?
 

Last edited by Snowmaker; 06-06-06 at 05:03 PM.
  #11  
Old 06-21-06, 12:38 PM
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Kenmore Dehumidifier Fan Stopped

Wow, glad I looked at this site. I noticed yesterday that my 70 pint had stopped working. I unplugged it to let it cool down, plugged it back in, & everything went back on, with the exception of the fan. I also noticed that the power supply cord had overheated slightly, with a small section actually melted. I just ordered a new fan motor, as well as a new power cord. As this unit is just a couple of years old, I hope this takes care of the problem. I just realized that the big 5-year warranty sticker was only for the compressor, which usually never goes out!!:mad:
 
  #12  
Old 07-08-06, 11:14 AM
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Thumbs down Kenmore Dehumidifier Ė Model # 580.54501400

Kenmore Dehumidifier Ė Model # 580.54501400
I write to confirm the above thread: I purchased a Kenmore dehumidifier from Sears about 18 months ago. The fan stopped & I purchased a new fan motor from sears.com for $37 (w/tax & shipping). The install was easy & itís back & running. I find it deplorable that Sears continues to sell these defective dehumidifiers. Kenmore should order a recall.
 
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Old 07-17-06, 05:43 PM
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Smile I fixed mine for $1.32

Same problem as the rest of you folks, but spending $40+ on a new fan that has a total of half a dozen parts, really chapped my backside. I shot out the three wires with a voltmeter(could have used a simple continuity tester too), and where I should have had a virtual short cirucit between all (3), only the hi and low wires were connected. After removing the motor and sliting the foil topped tape that surrounded the splices, I noticed a small device in series between the common wire and the fine motor winding. It was a Thermal Cut-Off fuseable link, rated 130C, 250V, 2A. I could not find a similar one, so went to the local Akron parts place, Philcap Electronics, and bought a replacement, with a higher 15 amp rating, for $1.32, including tax. It was an NTE8125 TCO, and is used in many home appliances, such as coffee makers. I was a little concerned about the difference in current rating, until the counter guy explained that unlike normal fuses, like the ones in your car, these devices are made to open the circuit when they reach a certain temperature, as opposed to a certain amperage. As to why the original failed after a year and a half, I think it was just a cheap component.
To replace, I removed the existing link by heating up the solder holding the two ends to their respective wires. Then I carefully crimpped, then soldered, the new thermal cut-off into place, covered the splices with pieces of a wire jacket from some scrap cable, and voila, the fan ran like a charm. A simple job, but don't try it if you are not careful and detail oriented. Forgetting to insulate a connection, or grounding a wire, and you can burn your house down. Skill wise, about a 1 on a scale of 10 as the hardest. On the common sense scale, got to be an easy 10, just because you better take care or else. Hope this encourages others to give it a try!
 
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Old 07-30-06, 02:35 PM
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Kenmore dehumidifier fixed for $1.56 - faulty fuse on fan

I can confirm that dkk's solution worked - pretty much as dkk describes below ; I had to go with the radio-shack TCO #270-1322 instead of the one he used (was a bit bigger in size -but with similar rating - size wasn't much of a problem - the shorter and thicker leads caused some soldering and placement issues). I did it without removing the fan - your mileage may vary.

It now condenses water out and seems to work - will update if the dehumidifier has any problems going forward.

You can view some pictures I took to help clarify the process. I have uploaded them to flickr - They are at
Kenmore dehumidifier repair pictures on Flickr


Originally Posted by dkk
Same problem as the rest of you folks, but spending $40+ on a new fan that has a total of half a dozen parts, really chapped my backside. I shot out the three wires with a voltmeter(could have used a simple continuity tester too), and where I should have had a virtual short cirucit between all (3), only the hi and low wires were connected. After removing the motor and sliting the foil topped tape that surrounded the splices, I noticed a small device in series between the common wire and the fine motor winding. It was a Thermal Cut-Off fuseable link, rated 130C, 250V, 2A. I could not find a similar one, so went to the local Akron parts place, Philcap Electronics, and bought a replacement, with a higher 15 amp rating, for $1.32, including tax. It was an NTE8125 TCO, and is used in many home appliances, such as coffee makers. I was a little concerned about the difference in current rating, until the counter guy explained that unlike normal fuses, like the ones in your car, these devices are made to open the circuit when they reach a certain temperature, as opposed to a certain amperage. As to why the original failed after a year and a half, I think it was just a cheap component.
To replace, I removed the existing link by heating up the solder holding the two ends to their respective wires. Then I carefully crimpped, then soldered, the new thermal cut-off into place, covered the splices with pieces of a wire jacket from some scrap cable, and voila, the fan ran like a charm. A simple job, but don't try it if you are not careful and detail oriented. Forgetting to insulate a connection, or grounding a wire, and you can burn your house down. Skill wise, about a 1 on a scale of 10 as the hardest. On the common sense scale, got to be an easy 10, just because you better take care or else. Hope this encourages others to give it a try!
 
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Old 08-03-06, 06:41 PM
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Dkk, Razio,

Your repair method works! Thanks much. I was about to pitch the dehumidifier (maybe I should still!). Gotta love the internet.

My current prob after replacing the fuse is now the fan only operates when "high" is selected. It doesn't run with "low". Any thoughts?

Thanks.
 
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Old 08-19-06, 07:45 PM
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dkk and Razio.....thanks very much for sharing your solution and pictures of the Kenmore Dehumidifier. I bought the same model about 2 years and within a month it stopped working. Didn't know why and Sears replaced it. The fan in the new one stopped a couple of weeks ago and I figured I needed to change the motor until I read what dkk did. Like Razio, I got the same TCO from Radio Shack and installed it easily. It only lasted about 5 days though and the fan has stopped again. I'm sure the TCO has blown again but I haven't confirmed yet. Did anyone verify that the current rating on the TCO is unimportant? I've been Googling but haven't learned anything yet. The current rating must be there for some reason. I'm also wondering if it's a bad motor that's blowing the fuse.
 
  #17  
Old 08-19-06, 09:33 PM
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Hey AgFox - I've had the same problem. I think there is something wrong with the fan itself. I've found that something happens that causes the fan not to start spinning properly; i.e. the compressor kicks in, but the fan makes a rumbling noise and doesn't spin. This is when the fuse gets blown because the current is now running into a fan that's not spinning. So in my case its good that the fuse is blown because otherwise the fan would melt down.

Anyone have any thoughts on what's causing the fan itself to malfunction? Right now I'm using an old-skool coil dehumidifier and it sucks because it keeps frost over and I've had to put a separate stand fan to blow over the coils.

Thanks.
 
  #18  
Old 09-12-06, 04:29 PM
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Okay I am game for this one!

I am very mechanical but limited in my electrical exp. How can I safely test the fan to make sure that it is the problem. I have the same dehumidifer as everyone else it seems and the same problem. Compressor works the fan doesn't......SO how do I test the fan. And to be honest I am a little worried about doing the soldering thing especially after the comment about burning down the house. So if it is the fan a fan replacement for me will be in the works. If I replace the fan how difficult is it? any tips or things to worry about? Thanks for the help and the advice.
 
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Old 09-20-06, 05:13 AM
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fan stop

Originally Posted by RazioRomario
I can confirm that dkk's solution worked - pretty much as dkk describes below ; I had to go with the radio-shack TCO #270-1322 instead of the one he used (was a bit bigger in size -but with similar rating - size wasn't much of a problem - the shorter and thicker leads caused some soldering and placement issues). I did it without removing the fan - your mileage may vary.

It now condenses water out and seems to work - will update if the dehumidifier has any problems going forward.

You can view some pictures I took to help clarify the process. I have uploaded them to flickr - They are at
Kenmore dehumidifier repair pictures on Flickr
i tried to look at your pictures but it says not avaiable did i do something wrong?
 
  #20  
Old 03-25-07, 11:16 AM
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Thanks to dkk and Razio, I repaired my Kenmore 70 pt dead fan motor for $4.39. The ideas worked like a charm. I did need to lube the fan with a little 3 in 1 oil once the TCO was replaced in order for the fan to continue without noticable stress. I believe that is the reason the TCO burned in the first place, the fan barely rotated with the fins attached.
 
  #21  
Old 04-24-07, 03:03 PM
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All about this motor

The motor fails because of dust.
The dust and moisture gets between rotor and stator and accumulates on rotor with time.
Space between rotor an stator gets filled with dust so the rotor can not start and the coil burns. In many cases, before the coil burns, temp. fuse cuts off the power. So, the remedy proposed here is a temporary one including the motor replacement. But if you remove the motor, disassemble it, clean it of dust and grease well it will last long.

The unit design is bad. The motor must be dust/moisture proof.
My motor burned. I will rewind the coil.
ustek
 
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Old 05-14-07, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the helpful advice

I bought a new Kenmore 54701 70 pint dehumidifier for around $150 on E-bay and started using in January 2006. It had been running 3 hours on and 3 hours off at the low setting for 14-15 months with no problems. I started having problems when I turned the unit to high and on all the time for a few days in order to dry out a wet area. It started turning on every 15 minutes then shutting off after 3 minutes, getting hot, working harder, and I noticed the fan was not blowing. Then the control panel started working intermittently. Sometimes the control panel would not power off and there would be three dashes on the display. The compressor sometimes would not turn on, and I noticed condensation on the inside of the control panel. I was not very careful when I ripped the unit apart to see if I could fix it. I damaged the case and probably some internal parts, because at that point I didnít really care. I was ready to buy another brand with a good reputation like Comfort-Aire, Essick, or Santa Fe. However, I bought the Thermal Cut-Off fuseable link mentioned by dkk at Gateway Electronics in Maryland Heights, MO and the people at Gateway Electronics were extremely helpful. The TCO was larger so I made a second trip to buy a larger wire jacket to reduce risk of fire. I successfully replaced the TCO for around $2 including the insulation by following the advice provided by dkk and the people at Gateway Electronics. It crimped into place and did not require soldering. The TCO installation only took a few minutes. The fan started working again, but the unit resumed with turning on every 15 minutes then shutting off after 3 minutes. Within two weeks I heard a clacking sound as the unit shut off and soon after that the fan no longer worked. I ordered another fan, but the screw on the bottom of the box that covers the fan plug is nearly inaccessible. When I pulled out the compressor and turned the unit upside down the screw still would not move. I wonder if they purposely jam in that screw to make the unit difficult to fix. I oiled the fan shaft with ď3-in-1Ē oil as suggested by Goody1 before replacing it. I had to cut the wires on the fans and splice them together with connectors from Gateway Electronics that crimp and then melt into place. The unit runs but it does not work the same. Now it seems to run only at the high speed. It brings the humidity down to 40% but it seems that I have to leave it on all the time now at 35% and sometimes the humidity shoots back up while the unit is running. Itís better than not having a humidifier, but prior to the breakdown I left it on low speed with 3 hours on and off at 40% for 14 months and the humidity did not fluctuate much at all. After this I will never buy another Kenmore appliance or anything from Sears. I hope Sears goes out of business.
 
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Old 06-02-07, 11:13 AM
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Replace Fuse, Lubricate Motor

I used the TCO #270-1322 and followed all the above instructions and so far, so good. I think the problem is the motor needs some regular maintenance...a couple drops of 3 in 1 oil on the motor shaft is all it took to get in running correctly. I think over time with lack of lubrication, the motor heats up causing the fuse to blow. Thanks again for all your help!
 
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Old 06-03-07, 02:04 PM
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Thumbs up Thank you thank you thank you

Yup, another happy $1.56 customer [g]. Sears wanted $102 to come to the house (and this POS is still on warranty!) or three-plus weeks at the repair black hole 15 miles away, so I followed the instructions here and it is now chugging away just fine in the basement.

Many thanks to those who took the time to post the instructions and photos.

-dan
 
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Old 06-14-07, 10:53 PM
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Question Hello from LG dehumidifier land the grass is not greener

Colleagues:

This thread has been the most enlightening dehumidier deterioration discussion i've found on the net.

my lg dehumidier's tco burnt out as well. the culprit was a mouse foolish enough to climb into the fan. for a couple of weeks my family heard a rattling coming from within the dehumidier. i opened up to smell the reek of death and to see a poor mouse who had climbed into the fan, got knocked to kindgom come, and proceeded to mummify in the dry atmospherics of the lg chassis.

i followed the advice on this thread, went out to radio shack and bought a tco. i soldered it into place. i ended up trashing the tape that ran around the stator coil (i've been researching motors) and used electrical tape rated to 175 degrees fh. to insulate the stator coil. i soldered and shielded the three wires running to the fan, and the fan proceeded to work. but after the machine has been running a while, i start to hear a hissing noise, from where i don't quite know, and then the fan stops moving.

do tco's recover? in other words, can the overheating motor set off the fuse, but then once the unit is cooled down a bit, the fuse will work again?

i am presently keeping watch over my completely de-skinned lg, waiting for that strange noise to come back. perhaps i'll locate its locus.

i've seen that some other people posting to this thread found that their fan motors no longer worked in the 'low' setting after they had gone to radio shack to purchase a tco....does the tco itself prevent the fan's 'low' setting from functioning. no big deal to me, we always turn the fan on high anyway.

in recent weeks i have tackled our failing refrigerator and wrangly electric range with success. i've conceded defeat to the overhead garage door, but i'm not ready to give in to this dehumidier. not just yet.

it's plain that my family's appliances are now in open revolt.

i welcome any insight that you may have.
 
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Old 06-14-07, 11:01 PM
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my lg appears to be having compressor problems

colleagues:

i have kept watch over my humidifier. as mentioned in my post below, the an works, but then shuts off after a few minutes, and the dehumidier makes a disturbing sound something like gas passing from somewhere to somewhere else.

i rushed over to the dehumidifier and found that the heat exchange coils at the front of the unit, where they ought to be cold, began to heat up. steam began to rise from the coils. then the shussing sound went away, and the coils cooled down again.

any pointers welcome. my wife said we should get a new one. i myself don't want to fill landfills with junk when i can cheaply fix them. also my manhood is somewhat at issue here. to hunt and provide and protect.

on a related funny sound/smell note. as i noted in my last post, i wrapped the stator coil on the fan motor in black electrical tape rated to 172 degrees fh. the stator coil is the part of the fan motor that all the wires run to, which is the same as with kenmore dehumidifiers.

when the fan is running, i am smelling a bit of burnt tape. the tape i pulled off the fan motor didn't seem all that heat resistant either, so i'm wondering if this is electrical tape off-gassing and will off-gas less, or whether i should go get a different kind of tape to wrap around the stator coil. sadly i trashed the tape that the coil was wrapped in when i began this dehumidifier rectification quest.
 
  #27  
Old 06-15-07, 01:35 PM
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Sounds like it is just in defrost
 
  #28  
Old 06-24-07, 10:40 AM
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Unhappy Update: dead again

My new TCO lasted 21 days then opened up again. I suspected it would, given that even after carefully cleaning and lubing the motor, it turned a bit slowly.

So I bit the bullet and ordered a new fan motor assembly ($27) from Sears and am hoping (hah) that by now they have shielded the bearings/bushings from dust a bit better.

Has anyone bought a new fan motor and determined whether the design is any better?

-dan
 
  #29  
Old 07-01-07, 06:45 AM
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Another 54701 story

I, along with the above losers purchasing the Sear 70 pint dehumidifier about to give up..After returning my unit (within 2 weeks) to Sears for noisey fan,3 times during the summer last year, I demanded a new unit. This unit was put into operation about six weeks ago but only lasted one week. Problem was the fan motor so I ordered a new one from Sears and installed it..It lasted less than one hour, unit cycled on and off as reported by others on this thread.
Than I found this forum with the answer of the problem being the TCO. Went to local electrical shop and purchased thermal resistor with a higher rating,,152c instead of the 130c..Unit now works, however, within 5mins. of running it goes from pulling 6 amps to 10 amps at which time I turned it off. Inside of unit very hot..Not wanting to take chances, I went to COSTCO and purchased a new DeLonghi 40 pint unit..Selection was based strictly on Costco return policy. Now, what to do with Sears (poc) 54701???
Oneshot
 
  #30  
Old 07-03-07, 02:18 PM
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New fan motor arrived today (was B.O.)

It does not appear to be any better designed than the one it replaces [sigh].


One thing I noticed is that my old one had sort of "popped" one of the caps covering the bearing from the inside, which may have caused extra tension on the shaft and the new TCO to fail. So anyone taking the motor apart should check to make sure the caps are firmly seated in the bearing housings.

We'll see how long the new motor lasts.

-dan
 
  #31  
Old 08-14-07, 08:26 AM
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new fan

I have the same unit, 2nd fan. Just went today. This unit needs a sealed fan if your have any dust. I have a few surplus 'muffin' fans around that are sealed. I''m going to replace it with one of these and see how it works.

Just 1 problem...forgot if the fan needs to blow to the front or back of the unit?

Thanks,
Barry
 
  #32  
Old 08-25-07, 06:08 AM
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from back to front

it sucks air in the back and blows it out the front of the unit
 
  #33  
Old 08-25-07, 03:51 PM
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Success and some additional tips!

do tco's recover? in other words, can the overheating motor set off the fuse, but then once the unit is cooled down a bit, the fuse will work again?
From reading a few datasheets on these type of fuses, once they pop, they are done and must be replaced.

I have replaced the TCO (RadioShack pn: 127-1322) as described by dkk and Razio on my Kenmore dehumidifier and the fan is now running. Thanks for the good info!!!

Now, hopefully I can contribute some good advice in return.

For those who are replacing the TCO for the first time or are replacing it again, you MUST make sure the fan motor is clean and spinning freely! If you give the fan wheel a spin with your finger and it doesn't spin freely a dozen times or more, then the motor will most likely overheat again and blow the fuse. Below are the steps I took to re-lubricate the fan motor and get it spinning freely again.

DISCLAIMER:
I am not an electrician, mechanic or engineer. This advice is based solely on my own personal experiences and observations. You follow the steps below at your own choosing and risk!

*As I understand, sealed compressor units should not be tipped over. As such, try not to tip your dehumidifier on its side or tilt it too drastically to do this work.


1) Take off the fan wheel (you're doing this anyway to replace the TCO) and clean out any dust on the motor. I should say also that there shouldn't be that much dust on your motor. If there is, be sure you have the dehumidifier's dust screen installed and/or installed properly.

2) Take out the two philips screws that hold the motor to the mounting brace on the dehumidifier.

3) Remove the sleeve bearing/retainer and the center part of the motor (rotor - I think it's called).

4)Have a helper hold the outer part of the motor if you are not taking out the entire motor.

5) Clean the old oil and residue from the rotor shaft with some paper towel and set it aside.

6) Using a Q-Tip, clean out the inside of sleeve bearing. There are two bearings. On my unit, the 2nd one remained fastened to the brace. DON'T FORGET TO CLEAN THIS ONE ALSO.

7) Then, if you look at the side of sleeve bearing/retainer assembly that faces toward the stator, you will see a little hole with some felt behind it. Using something like 3-in-1 oil place ONE DROP at a time in this hole and then give it time to soak in. I'm not sure exactly how much to put in there but I did around ten. Obviously, if it won't take anymore at some point then you can stop. Keep everything clean, don't go crazy with the oil!! Wipe up any excess that didn't go in the hole. Again, don't forget to do the second retainer still fastened to the mounting brace on the dehumidifier.

8) On the rotor, put one tiny drop on each end of the shaft. Reassemble the motor. If the shaft spins freely with no resistance then you should be good to go. You can move on and replace the TCO.


Hope this helps!
 
  #34  
Old 09-28-07, 09:33 AM
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Hello,

I came across this thread after picking up a LG dehumidifier that was thrown out by a neighbor yesterday. It too had an inoperative fan exactly as described by danham above, "One thing I noticed is that my old one had sort of "popped" one of the caps covering the bearing from the inside." I would have tried the TCO replacement if it wasn't for the bearing cap problem. Anyways, here are some specs on the fan motors:

4681A20040C/E/H/Q - 1280 RPM LOW/1380 HIGH
4681A20040J - 1350/1550
4681A20040G/F - 1450/1600
4681A20040R/K - 1630/1780*

*I noticed that the newer Kenmore 50/70 pinters use this motor. What do you guys think about "upgrading" to the high-speed motors if your old slower motors are dead?

And since LG makes LG/Goldstar/Kenmore/Comfort-Aire/Friedrich, I thought maybe you guys could make good use of this Friedrich service manual that I found online:

http://www.airconditionparts.com/fil...ice_Manual.pdf
 
  #35  
Old 10-13-07, 04:33 PM
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Upgrade... is there a better motor to install? the Kenmores do a good job but the motors won't last. Do you have a links to the parts you mentioned? Thanks for the info George.
 
  #36  
Old 03-19-08, 01:40 PM
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Unhappy defrost not working on Sears 54701 dehumidifier

I recently replaced the fan on my Sears 54701 dehumidifier (1 month past warranty (wish I had known about doityourself.com earlier), however, it also has the problem of not defrosting when it should. The evaporator coil becomes a solid block of ice, and the unit gets really hot. Anyone know what might need replacing to get the defrosting to work. It recently worked a few times, but then quit defrosting, so I believe the valve controlling the refrigerant does work, I suspect the frost sensing ability of the unit is not working. At least I think that might be the least expensive area to start investigating.
Thanks to anyone that might help!
 
  #37  
Old 04-09-08, 08:44 PM
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54501 Kenmore Dehumidifier Fan Problem

I have a dead fan motor. Unlike the previous posts I report 114 volts to motor in both speed settings. None of the other posts report this state. Does this mean that the thermistor/fuse thing is operating properly and the problem is only in the motor? Sounds like not a good thing to spend too much more time on if it is only to sputter out again. Any ideas? Thanks, jennings3
 
  #38  
Old 04-10-08, 04:11 AM
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I have 3 fan motors that I ordered to replace when needed. I have replaced 1 already though I did not check the voltage it was a bad motor. These Kenmore DH just will not last long at all. Bad thing is I have 3 of them 2 in use and a spare. If I could find another brand I would move on when these break down again but I think they are all linked together with the same parts. I had a Kenmore DH that lasted 18 years before the fan motor went out wounder what went wrong with the newer models?
Sorry, I don't think I answered your question.
 
  #39  
Old 04-10-08, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by clockmaker View Post
I have 3 fan motors that I ordered to replace when needed. I have replaced 1 already though I did not check the voltage it was a bad motor. These Kenmore DH just will not last long at all. Bad thing is I have 3 of them 2 in use and a spare. If I could find another brand I would move on when these break down again but I think they are all linked together with the same parts. I had a Kenmore DH that lasted 18 years before the fan motor went out wounder what went wrong with the newer models?
Sorry, I don't think I answered your question.
How did you determine the motor was bad? Just by it not spinning? Some folds say that cleaning the motor may help. Did you try? Thanks
 
  #40  
Old 04-10-08, 02:36 PM
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Took the DH apart and plugged the new fan motor up and it worked.
 
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