can't get enough humidity

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Old 02-02-05, 11:33 AM
expos
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can't get enough humidity

Hi Guy's
I just found this board and have read a lot, but not all of the threads.
I live in Montreal and it is pretty cold these days. I am in a 50 year old house,with original doors and windows, although I have put plastic on all windows. Forced air electric furnace with a drum type humidifier on it, approx 12 years old. It seems to be functioning perfectly. I have the humidistat set at full, 60 % , but can't get it above 30 % and on cold days 28 %.
It is very dry and all my wifes colds turn into sinus infections.
I am in a 4 bedroom cottage approx. 1600 to 1800 square feet.
It is my first winter in this house, so I cannot compare to last year but my old house was on the same street, same furnace, same type humidifier just a little older, and if I turned it up, voila, I had condensation all over the windows. The old house was better insulated and new windows and all, as well as being a bit smaller but I can't figure out why I can,t get the humidity up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Glad to read about the dessert spring cause I was thinking about it.
Regards mike
 
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Old 02-02-05, 01:43 PM
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If you got the drum type, Make sure you have a good pad.. A hard pad don't do much good.

Also, make sure there is flow going though it.. Some times there are dampers that is closed off in the summer when you run A/C. So make sure the damper is open if you have one.

Make sure the holding pan has water into, may need to give it a good clean if needed.

Otherwise, if the house is pretty drafty/leaky, it will make the house go dry since cold air comes in and dries out the house.
 
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Old 02-03-05, 09:36 AM
expos
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Thanks Jay
The pad is new , damper is open, water level is fine and every time the furnace is on the humidifier is turning ( due to the fact my humidistat is set at 60%)
I guess I am destined to be at 30%. I would feel that to be true and accept it,
but since my old house could get up to 50% easily, I wonder what the diff could be. Do you think having 1/3 the insulation in the attic which I am suppossed to have plays a big roll? Along with a poor fitting front door.
The plastic on all the windows should alleviate that problem cause no drafts get in.
 
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Old 02-03-05, 03:01 PM
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Yeah, a poor house will cause air to dry out since it can "exchange" the air one way or another.. A sealed house holds it's own air in better and won't "exchange". When you have cold air brought into a warm area.. The air "expands" once the air expans, the air dries out.
 
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Old 02-03-05, 05:24 PM
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Wink

I wonder what the diff could be. Do you think having 1/3 the insulation in the attic which I am suppossed to have plays a big roll? Along with a poor fitting front door.
More insulation will help cut down on the fuel bill. but like here you dont say if you have any V/B under that insulation? Does it have the paper on it That side down to the ceiling???? This can count for a big humidity loss in the home.

ED
 
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Old 02-04-05, 05:41 AM
expos
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Thanks guys
Ed, Idon't think there is a vapour barrier, it looks like loose vermiculite
insulation to me. I was thinking of getting insulation blown in, but as you raise the point of no v/b , maybe it's not a good idea. What do you think?
Better to lay down batts. It is more expensive than having it blown in, I had quotes.
Thanks
 
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Old 02-04-05, 10:20 AM
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Some have cut sheets of 4 mil poly Take the insulation out put this in the rafter space and put the insulation back on top of it Are take the insulation out put roll insulation paper side down and the old back on top of it. Dont put rolls with paper back on top of what you have. Rolls cost more cause you get the R you pay for. With blow in they can give you a good 6 "or 8" blow. But if they open the air a little it sure looks good but the R value is not in it. Been there know that.

ED
 
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Old 02-07-05, 06:49 AM
expos
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Thanks Guy's
You provide a valuable service for little reward.
Much appreciated
Regards Mike
 
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