Aprilaire 600 Wiring Question

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  #1  
Old 08-22-05, 02:45 PM
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Aprilaire 600 Wiring Question

I'm planning on using the 120v/24v transformer and HUM/NEUTRAL terminals on my YORK furnace. No A50 current-sensing relay will be used.

Can someone pls check my picture at http://www.geocities.com/codesampler...vacwiring2.jpg

Please answer the 2 questions.

Thanks a bunch!
 
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Old 08-22-05, 09:22 PM
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Low voltage side it don't matter what side...

But I am kinda confused, they show black as a common??? Most common is the white...

I guess go by what they say on the transfromer, black on to the nutral on the board, then white on humd.
 
  #3  
Old 10-28-05, 10:18 AM
macleary
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Black/White

I too am confused about the wiring colors. Can someone confirm that I'm supposed to hook up my transformer's white wire to my home 110v black hot wire? and therefore also hookup the transformer's black wire to my home white common wire?

What will happen if I make the mistake and hook this up backwards? Will it blowup the transformer, the humidistat, both, neither or even worse (my entire house?)

Help! Thanks..
 
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Old 10-28-05, 11:49 AM
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I emailed Aprilaire and they said white goes to neutral and black goes to HUM.
Thats how I wired mine too.

Heres another tip from the Aprilaire guy..
"If you only want the humidifier to run when the heats on you would connect it to the HUM terminals. If you want the humidifier to run when the heat or fan is on you should connect it to the EAC terminals. Also if you want to run the humidifier when only the fan is on the unit must be connected to hot water."
 
  #5  
Old 11-22-05, 07:56 AM
rbmatl
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mine won't work

I have had a time with this thing as well. Do you have to use a current sensing relay if you have the hum terminal on the furnace. I connected direct to the furnace and get power at the humidistat only on the two screws attached to the lines from the furnace. Solenoid wires have no power at Solenoid or at the humidistat. This think has been on the furnace for two years and never worked...Good installer but he left this thing short. I know he never finished the job because no line was ever connected to the drain plug at the bottom of the unit. Any help appreciated
 
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Old 11-22-05, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rbmatl
I have had a time with this thing as well. Do you have to use a current sensing relay if you have the hum terminal on the furnace. I connected direct to the furnace and get power at the humidistat only on the two screws attached to the lines from the furnace. Solenoid wires have no power at Solenoid or at the humidistat. This think has been on the furnace for two years and never worked...Good installer but he left this thing short. I know he never finished the job because no line was ever connected to the drain plug at the bottom of the unit. Any help appreciated
You dont need a sensing relay if you have HUM terminal.

Get a voltage tester. Make sure you are getting about 24v directly from the HUM/NEUTRAL terminals. If you are getting 120v, then you need to bring that down by attaching a 120v-to-24v transformer. (If you are getting 120v and its attached directly to your humidistat, then you've already fried your humidistat and possibly your solenoid)

Turn up the thermostat high enough so the heater/fan is on.
Switch the test dial while the heater/fan was on?
It should run water for about 1min while in test mode.

If the above doesnt work, it sounds like your humdistat is not working.

Good luck
g00ber
 
  #7  
Old 11-23-05, 07:08 PM
rbmatl
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Thumbs down did Tha

I replaced the humidistat and added the 120/24 V transformer. I now have the red light on on the Humidistat (green briefly as well when it powers up which is normal) but I still have nothing happening at the solenoid valve. I bought a new one at the supply house today and the problem is still the same...Solenoid valve does not open. I wonder if my control board on the furnace is bad and is throwing out weir currents..Hum term does not work at all, so now it (transformer) is wired to the EAC terminal. I really don't know what else to try here.

Thanks
 
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Old 11-23-05, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rbmatl
I replaced the humidistat and added the 120/24 V transformer. I now have the red light on on the Humidistat (green briefly as well when it powers up which is normal) but I still have nothing happening at the solenoid valve. I bought a new one at the supply house today and the problem is still the same...Solenoid valve does not open. I wonder if my control board on the furnace is bad and is throwing out weir currents..Hum term does not work at all, so now it (transformer) is wired to the EAC terminal. I really don't know what else to try here.

Thanks
You should get a steady current from your HUM/NEUTRAL (either 120v or 24v depending on your furnace) when the fan/heater is on. Try it with a voltage tester.

I actually have mine connected EAC/NEUTRAL (with 120v/24v transformer) directly to the solenoid so it turns on when the fan is on. I have an expensive ritetemp thermostat from Home Depot that also has a humidistat within it. If it senses the humidity is below 40% (configurable) it powers the fan, then powering the EAC terminal, which turns the humidifier on.
 
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Old 11-24-05, 04:01 PM
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is the red light on the humidistat board supposed to be on all of the time or is it lit to notify me of a wiring problem. Happy Thanksgiving and thanks.
 
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Old 11-29-05, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rbmatl
is the red light on the humidistat board supposed to be on all of the time or is it lit to notify me of a wiring problem. Happy Thanksgiving and thanks.
I dont remember. I cant tell you now becuz my wiring is different from the instructions. I dont use the humidistat nor that outdoor temp sensor anymore.

Do you have a voltage tester? Did you try that yet? I think thats the best way to find out if you have wiring problems
 
  #11  
Old 12-24-05, 11:06 AM
gkalpesh
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what if com/neutral is not free but HUM is available?

I have a situation, my furnace board has HUM 24V "R" terminal but does not have any COMM or neutral free. Where should I hook up the "C" wire?. Can I connect with the "NEUTRAL" of the blower motor?. There is a 120/24V transformer installed on the board for furnace, can I connect the humidifier "C" to the "COM" of transformer?.
 
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Old 12-24-05, 07:31 PM
gkalpesh
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Talking All is well now!

Thanks for the reply Jay11J. Followed your advise of connecting the C with the COM of the furnace transformer, its working perfect now. I have the R connected to the EAC (Thanks g00ber!) by connecting the additional 120/24V transformer now to have solenoid ON while blower is running. You all have a Merry Christmas. This forum rocks!!

Originally Posted by gkalpesh
I have a situation, my furnace board has HUM 24V "R" terminal but does not have any COMM or neutral free. Where should I hook up the "C" wire?. Can I connect with the "NEUTRAL" of the blower motor?. There is a 120/24V transformer installed on the board for furnace, can I connect the humidifier "C" to the "COM" of transformer?.
 
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Old 09-27-09, 10:54 AM
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4851 Blower Activation Relay

Hello. 6 years ago, my contractor installed an Aprilaire 600 with automatic humidistat in my 3600 (including basement) square foot house. The 600 is set to turn on when there is a heat call from the thermostat. We feel that we are not getting enough humidity possibly because the heat does not run enough to provide all the humidity that the humidistat would call for.

Aprilaire suggested we install part 4851 that enables the humidistat to call for fan on if humidity is required regardless of heat call. There are 5 wires on the 4851. I can easily connect 2 of them to the humidistat, but the other 3 need to go to my heat pump air handler Model ARUF042-00A-1 (I think Goodman).

Aprilaire told me how to connect the wires, but I can't find wire screw panels, only thick red blue white brown wires coming out of the top of the air handler. Considering the part only costs $30, I would hate to pay my contractor a total of $170. Aprilaire told me that the contractor could do it in their sleep.

Any help/advice would be appreciated on how to connect this thing.
 
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Old 09-28-09, 08:20 PM
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Since this is a heat pump, is your water supply hooked up to hot or cold water?

You said the heat don't come on enough, you have an oversized system?


Follow the t-stat wire (some times it brown) into the air handler, you'll see where it will screw onto the board, or maybe wire nut together.
 
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Old 09-29-09, 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply. Connected to hot water.

Becasue we still feel very dry in my house, aprilaire guessed that maybe our heat calls are too short (but still provide the right amount of heat) and therefore, do not provide the required amount of humidity we need.

On top of the heat pump, I see red blue white brown green thick wires coming out of the heat pump and they are wire nutted to a bunch of things. Should I assume that I connect the 4851 there and that those wires are 24 volt?
 
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Old 09-29-09, 02:19 PM
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Take a photo of these wires.. You know what gauge these "thick" wires are?
 
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Old 09-30-09, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Take a photo of these wires.. You know what gauge these "thick" wires are?
How do I attach photos from my desktop? My posting rules state, "You may not post attachments".
 

Last edited by glassr; 09-30-09 at 10:36 AM.
  #18  
Old 09-30-09, 04:45 PM
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You will need to upload the photo to a photo host site like imageshack.us or yahoo.

Then copy the URL when you upload the photos, then past it on the pop up.
 
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Old 10-01-09, 01:01 PM
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Photo of part 4851 and of the wires coming out of my heat pump. And, link to 4851 installation diagram. Thanks.

ImageShack -

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/AP4851.pdf
 
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Old 10-01-09, 01:08 PM
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Yes, those are the low voltage wires. I am kinda suprised that there is no "block" inside the unit to give it a cleaner look.
 
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Old 10-01-09, 01:11 PM
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I have to connect blue orange and yellow from the 4851 to my furnace/thermostat. What wires in that photo do I connect blue orange and yellow to? Thanks.

http://www.ntsupply.com/files/products/AP4851.pdf
 
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Old 10-01-09, 01:35 PM
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You need to undo the green wires. (remove wire nut) hook up the blue wire to the Green/G wire that comes from the t-stat. (thinner wire)

Yellow the green thicker wire from air handler.

The two green wires should be by itself, not grouped together.

Orange to the Red/R wires.
 
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Old 10-01-09, 01:54 PM
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Thanks. Looks simple.

I suppose I should trip the furnace breaker in my main breaker box. Or because it is 24v I don't need to?
 
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Old 10-01-09, 02:26 PM
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And, upon hooking up the 4851, do you know if I need to make any changes to the original install of the aprilaire 600 (w/56 humidistat) set for heat call? Thanks.
 
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Old 10-01-09, 02:55 PM
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I don't think you need to make any changes on the 56. (didn't see any notes on it)

Yes, you need to turn off the power for the air handler.
 
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Old 10-05-09, 02:50 PM
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Followed your instructions and solenoid and red light on 4851 only go on during a heat call. Aprilaire told me R & C on the 56 were originally set up for power during a heat call and I need it to have constant power for the 4851 to work. Currently for a heat call, the R (red) from 56 runs to 2 combined yellows coming off of 2 sets of colored wires. The C (white) from 56 runs to thick blue wire on the air handler. Where do I run the R & C from the 56 to get constant power from the air handler?


Thanks.
 
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Old 10-05-09, 03:11 PM
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Got it. Moved the R from the bunched yellows to the thick Red on the air handler.
 
 

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