I have read many forums and help pages on humidifier wiring. It seems there are many ways and different opinions out there. I only have minor electrical wiring experience. But I think my installation is very basic. I would like to confirm my planned installation in simple terms and if somebody could please just give me a yes or try again response. I would greatly appreciate the help!

Honeywell HE360A humidifier with H8908B humidistat - I would like to wire the humidifier to only turn on when the furnace blower is running and humidstat senses low humidity.

1.) I need to confirm that the "HUM" terminal on the furnace is 24V. If not, I need to purchase a transformer to reduce voltage.
2.) There are multiple lines coming out of the humidifier and into a connector. I am only going to use the two yellow lines.
a.) One yellow line hooks directly to the furnace "HUM" terminal.
b.) One yellow line hooks directly to black wire of humidistat (only two black wires in back of humidistat and it does not matter which direction I hook the wires).
3.) Connect other black wire from humidistat to "N" or "NEU" connector on furnace.

If I wanted to have the ability to have the humidifier running when I turned on the "fan" toggle at the thermostat, I would attach the yellow line to the electronic air cleaner terminal at the furnace. Sometimes labeled "EAC".

OK. Either I am lost and it's time to have someone install this or I hopefully have it figured out. Thanks.

 

bumping this post. Anyone able to make a run at this one?

 

Not knowing what brand/model is your furnace.. hard to say for sure if it's 24v or 120v.

On most brand, the HUM is 120v, and with the model you have, just wire a plug to the HUM, and then plug the humidfier into that plug. It'll turn it on when the fan is running.

 

I bought the same humidifier last night. I have a Bryant 90 Plus furnace. If I follow plehs wiring instructions, will I still need a sail switch or current relay? I found the 'hum' point but not the 'n' nue point. Where should I look? Thanks

 

If your furnace has the Hum term. It maybe 120 volts.. But double check to make sure.. If it is, then you can use any common side on that system.

If you do wire it up on the HUM side, then you won't need the relay/sail.

 

Can anyone confirm if this wiring is correct? I am installing right now, and my furnace says 24V, so I think I am okay on my HUM connection. If the rest of the original posters wiring is correct, I should be good to go. Thanks

 

If your humidifier is a 360, then no, you can't use the 24 volts.. You need to use 120 volts for the plug in.. Look for EAC, and you can wire an outlet to that.

 

I've read many blogs on here about connecting these. I'd just like to make sure I'm understanding the information correctly.

The HUM terminal on my furnace is 120 V. That gets connected to the hot side of the outlet that the HE360A plugs into. The neutral of this outlet to the neutral on the furnace.

Because I have a HUM, a sail switch or current sensing relay is not needed.

Then the black wires on the humidistat get connected to the yellow wires on the humidifer.

thank you for all your help!

 

That is correct Jobb. I would suggest using a single socket outlet, so that way some one can't plug something else into it.

 

Thank you again for your help Jay. Should I be concerned with the current capacity of my furnace HUM terminal? According to the manual for the HE360A humidifier the draw is .7 amps. However I do not have a manual for my furnace, nor can I find one. I just moved into the house and the furnace was here.

I am unfamiliar with the manufacturer but it is a Concord, and the model number is RGU80A100D12-3A.

I'm not anal, but I've just ruined too many things! Just want to make sure...

Thanks again,

Justin

 

No need to worry Justin, Just as long you do the single outlet, you will be fine.. That's why I suggest the single outlet so that way something else can't get plugged in to damage the board by the over amp draw.

 

OK Jay, thanks again for the help. Unfortunately I already installed the outlet and switch. I had to re-run the power to my furnace, as I wanted it on a dedicated 20 amp circuit.

I combined the switch and outlet in the same box. I also couldn't find a metal cover for a switch combined with a single circle outlet. However I can always glue in one of those child safety caps.

 

Yeah, cap it off. You can break the bridge on back of the socket

 

I am installing a Honeywell powered flow through humidifier (HE360) to my furnace without the sail switch and have a question about wiring. I have connected the two black wires from the humidistat to the two yellow wires in the humidifier. I want the humidifier to come on when the furnace blower is on. So, I mounted an outlet on my furnace to plug the humidifier into. Now, do I run one hot and one neutral wire from the outlet to the fan blower control box on my furnace? The box has terminals labeled: HUM - 115 VAC and HUM - Neutral. Hot wire to HUM 115 VAC spade terminal and Neutral wire to HUM - Neutral spade. Is this correct?

 

Correct. I'd suggest to mount a single outlet, so that way some one don't try to plug something else into the other outlet.

 

Jay11J

Thanks for all your help and responses across the forum.

I plan to wire my HE360 as described in these posts - hot wire to HUM 120 VAC spade terminal and neutral wire to neutral spade terminal on the board. Presently, I am using a current sensing relay that turns on properly, but only turns off less than 5% of the time. I'm guessing it's picking up too much interference from the other wires. The solution you gave sounds much better in my opinion.

My question for you is this, isn't it necessary to ground the outlet? If so, I should run the bare copper ground wire to what?

Again, thanks for your answers.

John

 

Should run the copper ground to a ground contact on the furnace, or meet up with the main wire's ground.

 

the 50 relay may be too close to the transformer, this will cause it to stay on.