Honeywell Powered Humidifier
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Honeywell Powered Humidifier
Hi,
I'm a bit frustrated and looking for a little backup. I just had my furnace replaced last fall with a Trane (XV90) and along with it a Honeywell Powered Humidifier. Our house has always been dry and the old drum humidifier never cut it (or at least that was the feeling before). The new humidifier is worse. I recognize the problem as being the fact that it was installed on the cold air return (despite my questioning them on how wise that would be). After fiddling with the control all winter and suffering the low humidiity levels, I've finally asked that they do something about it and they now want to install it on the warm air supply. The problem is the fact that they want to cut open the brand new coil case to do it. I'm no expert, but that does not sound like a good idea. I looked inside the case (also from Trane) and the side wall where it would go has a double wall, i.e., there is a second sheet metal wall inside that is about 1" from the outside sheetmetal. Plus it is all insulated with aluminum covered fiberglass insulation. It just does not make sense to me to go cutting this thing open.
I have two main questions.
1. Am I right in my concerns of relocating the unit to the coil case?
2. Is having the powered unit any better than a good bypass.
On a related note. After reading some other threads, I saw comments on having an oversized furnace. How would one tell such a thing? I ask since this could explain not only the poor humidity levels/control but also the hot dry feeling we get most every morning (I surmise from the rapid heating @ wake schedule on the thermostat (60 sleep/66 wake).
Thanks in advance! Sorry for the long post.
Dave
I'm a bit frustrated and looking for a little backup. I just had my furnace replaced last fall with a Trane (XV90) and along with it a Honeywell Powered Humidifier. Our house has always been dry and the old drum humidifier never cut it (or at least that was the feeling before). The new humidifier is worse. I recognize the problem as being the fact that it was installed on the cold air return (despite my questioning them on how wise that would be). After fiddling with the control all winter and suffering the low humidiity levels, I've finally asked that they do something about it and they now want to install it on the warm air supply. The problem is the fact that they want to cut open the brand new coil case to do it. I'm no expert, but that does not sound like a good idea. I looked inside the case (also from Trane) and the side wall where it would go has a double wall, i.e., there is a second sheet metal wall inside that is about 1" from the outside sheetmetal. Plus it is all insulated with aluminum covered fiberglass insulation. It just does not make sense to me to go cutting this thing open.
I have two main questions.
1. Am I right in my concerns of relocating the unit to the coil case?
2. Is having the powered unit any better than a good bypass.
On a related note. After reading some other threads, I saw comments on having an oversized furnace. How would one tell such a thing? I ask since this could explain not only the poor humidity levels/control but also the hot dry feeling we get most every morning (I surmise from the rapid heating @ wake schedule on the thermostat (60 sleep/66 wake).
Thanks in advance! Sorry for the long post.
Dave
#2
This Powred unit new with the furnace?
I'd ask them take it back and replace it with the by pass. The unit can be on the return, where the powered unit has to be on supply.
My parents has a XV90, and so do I.. but I don't have room for a humidifer, where my parent does, they have the bypass unit with outdoor sensor, and does a great job on the home.
I would not suggest cutting into the coil case.. I'd put the by pass duct in the ductwork above the coil.
I'd ask them take it back and replace it with the by pass. The unit can be on the return, where the powered unit has to be on supply.
My parents has a XV90, and so do I.. but I don't have room for a humidifer, where my parent does, they have the bypass unit with outdoor sensor, and does a great job on the home.
I would not suggest cutting into the coil case.. I'd put the by pass duct in the ductwork above the coil.
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Thanks for the reply. Yes it's all new.
I am in agreement and I will try to get them to take it back. Are there any bypass models you recommend? I was considering the Desert Spring or the Hamilton pulsed flow thru. Both are supposed to work pretty good, and save water as a bonus (vs. the one I have now) .
Dave
I am in agreement and I will try to get them to take it back. Are there any bypass models you recommend? I was considering the Desert Spring or the Hamilton pulsed flow thru. Both are supposed to work pretty good, and save water as a bonus (vs. the one I have now) .
Dave
#4
I have never heard of Hamilton pulsed line.
I just know the Honywell or Aprilaire flow though.
My parents has the Trane (honywell) with an outdoor sensor, and keeps up very well.
I just know the Honywell or Aprilaire flow though.
My parents has the Trane (honywell) with an outdoor sensor, and keeps up very well.
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I saw it Lowes sold under the Hamilton name, but I've also seen it as Thermolec on the web, http://www.thermolec.com/pro600.htm. It looks interesting enough.
Dave
Dave
#6
I'd go with that one then before dessert spring.
The plused unit must be something new, never heard of it, and it makes alot of sence on saving water.
If you or the dealer, I'd suggest hooking this up on EAC on the furnace control board, that way, it will run any time when the blower is running..
Do you run the blower 24/7? Also, do you have two stage stat on that nice furnace? And also did you buy the 10 years/labor warranity?
The plused unit must be something new, never heard of it, and it makes alot of sence on saving water.
If you or the dealer, I'd suggest hooking this up on EAC on the furnace control board, that way, it will run any time when the blower is running..
Do you run the blower 24/7? Also, do you have two stage stat on that nice furnace? And also did you buy the 10 years/labor warranity?
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Yep, we bought it all. I'm finishing the basement, so I replaced the old furnace (25+ years) with a new one before it got walled into a tiny sheetrock cover space.
The t-stat should be two stage (from what I can tell). It's a zoned system as well. 3 zones. 2 wired & one wireless t-stat. All honeywell controls.
The fan is on 24/7 so hooking up that way makes sense to me. My wife asks me to turn it off every once in while because she doesn't like the drafty feeling. The humidifer is currently only wired to the humidistat and 120v power. It basically runs all the time as well.
I measured my plenum temps over the weekend. I get about 125 F+ on the supply when the furnace is in Stage 1. I get about 61F on the return. I'm petty sure the cold air is not doing much evaporating.
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate the help.
The t-stat should be two stage (from what I can tell). It's a zoned system as well. 3 zones. 2 wired & one wireless t-stat. All honeywell controls.
The fan is on 24/7 so hooking up that way makes sense to me. My wife asks me to turn it off every once in while because she doesn't like the drafty feeling. The humidifer is currently only wired to the humidistat and 120v power. It basically runs all the time as well.
I measured my plenum temps over the weekend. I get about 125 F+ on the supply when the furnace is in Stage 1. I get about 61F on the return. I'm petty sure the cold air is not doing much evaporating.
Thanks for the input. I really appreciate the help.