Honeywell A360 with Rheem LX2000 wiring
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Honeywell HE360 with Rheem LX2000 wiring
""Hello and thank you in advance." I bought a Honeywell HE360 humidifier and got everything installed and then went to wire it to the furnace Rheem LX2000. I checked my next door neighbors wiring (he had the bypass humidifier the type without the 120 v fan with the exact same furnace) and his was wired to the bottom and 3rd from the bottom lug on the furnace board. I turned everything on and it started to work (although when I turned on the humidistat the furnace cut out), but then I smelled something burning (electrical)- it turned out be transformer in the HE360. Are there other terminals I should have used to start the humidifier when the furnace starts or must I use a current sensing relay? I don't want to burn up another one !! On the wiring, and I think this really may have been the problem, I connected all my whites to whites and reds to reds which means I didn't wire the humidier, humidistat and furnace in series - could that have been the problem if the furnace terminals I used were correct?"" OR, should I just go out and buy an A50 Current Sensing Relay and "forget about it"?
Last edited by MartyPowers; 11-18-07 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Wrong model number
#2
That is not a model #. I am not able to pull the info on line since Rheem has it locked behind closed door.
I am guessing you tied the yellow wire to this or what wire?
Is the furnace working again since this happend? You fried the transformer on the humidifier?
Do you see EAC on the board? You be able to tie on that for 120v.
What model of humidistat you get?
I checked my next door neighbors wiring (he had the bypass humidifier the type without the 120 v fan with the exact same furnace) and his was wired to the bottom and 3rd from the bottom lug on the furnace board.
I turned everything on and it started to work (although when I turned on the humidistat the furnace cut out), but then I smelled something burning (electrical)- it turned out be transformer in the HE360.
Are there other terminals I should have used to start the humidifier when the furnace starts or must I use a current sensing relay?
What model of humidistat you get?
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts

THANKS FOR YOUR QUICK RESPONSE - I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP.
Quote:
I checked my next door neighbors wiring (he had the bypass humidifier the type without the 120 v fan with the exact same furnace) and his was wired to the bottom and 3rd from the bottom lug on the furnace board.
I am guessing you tied the yellow wire to this or what wire?
Yellow on HE360 to red connecting wire.
1st lead on humidistat to red connecting wire
Bottom on furnace board to red connecting wire
2nd yellow on HE360 to white connecting wire.
2nd lead on humidistat to white connecting wire.
3rd lug on furnace board to white connecting wire.
All three whites joined.
All three reds joined.
And I think that what screwed it up - I didn't wire in series.
If you agree, than I will ceratainly check to see of the leads on the furnace are putting out 24 volts (AC).
OR, should I just but an A50 relay and do it that way?
Quote:
I turned everything on and it started to work (although when I turned on the humidistat the furnace cut out), but then I smelled something burning (electrical)- it turned out be transformer in the HE360.
Is the furnace working again since this happend? You fried the transformer on the humidifier?
Yes, the furnace seems to be fine, the transformer on the humidifier was fried - could smell the electrical burn when I opened up the shroud and the the fan wouldn't start when I put the two yellows together.
Quote:
Are there other terminals I should have used to start the humidifier when the furnace starts or must I use a current sensing relay?
Do you see EAC on the board? You be able to tie on that for 120v.
I'm not at their house now so I can't look - I'm assuming I need 24 volts on the board.
What model of humidistat you get?
H8908B1002 - Honeywell Humidistat Manual
Quote:
I checked my next door neighbors wiring (he had the bypass humidifier the type without the 120 v fan with the exact same furnace) and his was wired to the bottom and 3rd from the bottom lug on the furnace board.
I am guessing you tied the yellow wire to this or what wire?
Yellow on HE360 to red connecting wire.
1st lead on humidistat to red connecting wire
Bottom on furnace board to red connecting wire
2nd yellow on HE360 to white connecting wire.
2nd lead on humidistat to white connecting wire.
3rd lug on furnace board to white connecting wire.
All three whites joined.
All three reds joined.
And I think that what screwed it up - I didn't wire in series.
If you agree, than I will ceratainly check to see of the leads on the furnace are putting out 24 volts (AC).
OR, should I just but an A50 relay and do it that way?
Quote:
I turned everything on and it started to work (although when I turned on the humidistat the furnace cut out), but then I smelled something burning (electrical)- it turned out be transformer in the HE360.
Is the furnace working again since this happend? You fried the transformer on the humidifier?
Yes, the furnace seems to be fine, the transformer on the humidifier was fried - could smell the electrical burn when I opened up the shroud and the the fan wouldn't start when I put the two yellows together.
Quote:
Are there other terminals I should have used to start the humidifier when the furnace starts or must I use a current sensing relay?
Do you see EAC on the board? You be able to tie on that for 120v.
I'm not at their house now so I can't look - I'm assuming I need 24 volts on the board.
What model of humidistat you get?
H8908B1002 - Honeywell Humidistat Manual
#4
Whoa!
Yeah, it's wired up wrong...
Look at the install manual, you need to wire it up like FIG.#5, or #6 with the relay.
I want to wire it up like #5..
Don't worry about the neighbor's.. They don't have the same humidifer as you do. Look at your own board, and look for EAC tab or screw.
I don't want 24v off your board since your humdifer is 120v.
Sounds like you have to get a new transformer for your humidifer.
Yeah, it's wired up wrong...
Look at the install manual, you need to wire it up like FIG.#5, or #6 with the relay.
I want to wire it up like #5..
Don't worry about the neighbor's.. They don't have the same humidifer as you do. Look at your own board, and look for EAC tab or screw.
I don't want 24v off your board since your humdifer is 120v.
Sounds like you have to get a new transformer for your humidifer.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I have replaced the transformer and the fan and solonoid are work again with the two yellows together and I can and will redo the wiring, but just a last question.
Should I try to find the right leads on the furnaces circuit board or just go with the A50 Current Sensing Relay as I can't go wrong with that?
If I try for the circuit board leads, and I looking for 24 volts or 120?
AND AGAIN, MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP !!
Should I try to find the right leads on the furnaces circuit board or just go with the A50 Current Sensing Relay as I can't go wrong with that?
If I try for the circuit board leads, and I looking for 24 volts or 120?
AND AGAIN, MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP !!
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
If I find the EAC (can you tell me what that abbreviation stands for), do I use that for the yellow leads to the humidifier, or use that to power up the whole HE350?
Is the EAC a 3 prong plug outlet that would be in the furnace?
I promise !! I won't ask more questions about this !!
Is the EAC a 3 prong plug outlet that would be in the furnace?
I promise !! I won't ask more questions about this !!
#8
NO DO NOT use the yellow leads to that! You MUST wire it up like you see on Fig #5 on the install manual... (Yellow wire to humidistat, that is 24v)
EAC taps is 120v, you will need to run a wire off of that to an outlet that to be mounted on the side of the furnace.
Is the EAC a 3 prong plug outlet that would be in the furnace?
I promise !! I won't ask more questions about this !!
If this project is getting too much for you, get the A50, and you don't have to worry about make wire connection, mounting an out let on the side.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay - I think I may have solved the problem.
While I'm not at my kids house, I checked the way the unit is installed in my house (I have the Aprilair 768) and on the furnace, right below the external switch is an out let box.
With the blower off, the outlet is dead, when the blower comes on, the outlet is live.
I had always thought the outlet was always live, but I was wrong.
So it looks like on newer installations, the installers put a switched outlet box on the outside of the furnace, just for the purpose of either a water pump and/or a humidifier or other unit that's to start with the blower.
I'll check my kids outlet (they also have one just below the toggle switch on the exterior of their furnace) and if it's "switched" to the start with the blower, my problem has been solved.
I'll let you know and again, warm regards and thanks for your continued help.
While I'm not at my kids house, I checked the way the unit is installed in my house (I have the Aprilair 768) and on the furnace, right below the external switch is an out let box.
With the blower off, the outlet is dead, when the blower comes on, the outlet is live.
I had always thought the outlet was always live, but I was wrong.
So it looks like on newer installations, the installers put a switched outlet box on the outside of the furnace, just for the purpose of either a water pump and/or a humidifier or other unit that's to start with the blower.
I'll check my kids outlet (they also have one just below the toggle switch on the exterior of their furnace) and if it's "switched" to the start with the blower, my problem has been solved.
I'll let you know and again, warm regards and thanks for your continued help.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I just bought the relay on eBay for $16.00 including shipping, I think it will get to me on Friday or Saturday.
I looked at the wiring schematic and I think the "IDM" is the blower fan (it says it's the "Induced Draft Motor" - it shows 3 wires, white black and Green - I assume the green is the common and is the wire I attach the realy to.
The list of symbols on the schematic also shows an "IBM" Indoor Blower Motor, but I son't see that on the schematic.
Did I at least get this right?
I tried to attach a picture of the schematic, but it looks like I can't attach an image. If the image would be critical I can email it to you if you need it.
OMG - this is a little bigger than I anticipated, but I'm sort of confident that with your help I'll get it to work !
I looked at the wiring schematic and I think the "IDM" is the blower fan (it says it's the "Induced Draft Motor" - it shows 3 wires, white black and Green - I assume the green is the common and is the wire I attach the realy to.
The list of symbols on the schematic also shows an "IBM" Indoor Blower Motor, but I son't see that on the schematic.
Did I at least get this right?
I tried to attach a picture of the schematic, but it looks like I can't attach an image. If the image would be critical I can email it to you if you need it.
OMG - this is a little bigger than I anticipated, but I'm sort of confident that with your help I'll get it to work !
#13
The relay install manual says put it on the IDM wire??? Never heard of it being done that way.. I suppose if you hook it up that way, the humidifier will only fire off when there is call for heat vs having it on the blower motor.. When it's on the blower wire, it will come on whenever the blower is on.
Most of the time it goes on the wire on the blower motor.
I hate to say this... No, you are not right.. Green is ground... Not common, the white wire is common.
Most of the time it goes on the wire on the blower motor.
I hate to say this... No, you are not right.. Green is ground... Not common, the white wire is common.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
So to find that wire, I look at the heavy wires going directly into the big round fan at the bottom of the furnace and pick the white one which would be the common?
I'll let you know how this works out once I get the relay.
Jay .... you are one in a million - you have the patience of a saint to work with us sillys DIY's !!
Regards
Marty
I'll let you know how this works out once I get the relay.
Jay .... you are one in a million - you have the patience of a saint to work with us sillys DIY's !!
Regards
Marty
#15
Yep, follow the wire down to the blower motor, and clamp on that white one.
Glad to to help.. I deal with a lot of DIYer for a living at Home Depot. Some odd ideals I see, and some cool ideals... and most of all some who just can't get it. :-)
Glad to to help.. I deal with a lot of DIYer for a living at Home Depot. Some odd ideals I see, and some cool ideals... and most of all some who just can't get it. :-)
#16
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Hello,
I'm in a similar situation. I'm installing the HE360 on my furnace, manual says its an LX2000, inside the furnace it says some model number, but I cant recall what it is. I bought the grossly overpriced install kit for the HE360. Everything works fine, but I noticed the humidifier shutting off then back on randomly. I checked my wiring, and it looks fine, the humidistat is set to on, blower is running (tripping the sail switch). Last night I tried taking the sail switch out of the circuit and it appears to be working flawlessly (not shutting off and on randomly). So now I'm trying to come up with a way to eliminate the sail switch from the install. Is there a way I could run a wire into the furnace to the HUM? I'm going to test it tonight with my voltmeter to check to see if it is 24v. If not I'm thinking I might have to wire the outlet to the EAC for 110V? What do you think would be the best way to wire this and eliminate the sail switch.
Thank You Jay, I see you helped a lot of people on the forums. It's much appreciated
-Jason
I'm in a similar situation. I'm installing the HE360 on my furnace, manual says its an LX2000, inside the furnace it says some model number, but I cant recall what it is. I bought the grossly overpriced install kit for the HE360. Everything works fine, but I noticed the humidifier shutting off then back on randomly. I checked my wiring, and it looks fine, the humidistat is set to on, blower is running (tripping the sail switch). Last night I tried taking the sail switch out of the circuit and it appears to be working flawlessly (not shutting off and on randomly). So now I'm trying to come up with a way to eliminate the sail switch from the install. Is there a way I could run a wire into the furnace to the HUM? I'm going to test it tonight with my voltmeter to check to see if it is 24v. If not I'm thinking I might have to wire the outlet to the EAC for 110V? What do you think would be the best way to wire this and eliminate the sail switch.
Thank You Jay, I see you helped a lot of people on the forums. It's much appreciated

-Jason
#17
Hello Jason,
For the 360 model, we need 110v. 24 v is not going to work. so yeah look on your board for the EAC. and maybe EAC2, otherwise, C or N for the common side of the line. If you do find HUM. check anyway just for kicks.. I know Trane use 110v for HUM.
Let me know what you find, and I'd be glad to help
For the 360 model, we need 110v. 24 v is not going to work. so yeah look on your board for the EAC. and maybe EAC2, otherwise, C or N for the common side of the line. If you do find HUM. check anyway just for kicks.. I know Trane use 110v for HUM.
Let me know what you find, and I'd be glad to help
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Jay, so I got everything in place, even a new HE360 head, put everything together and then tested the new head by putting the two yellow leads together and NOTHING. No fan, no solonoid click (got the new unit from Home Depot). I opened up the head to look to see if the transformer looked like it had been burned, but it looked OK.
Is it fair to say that the new head is defective?
So right now I'm going to retuen the new unit and get a different one.
So my question is, when 120V power is active and the two yellow wires are connected, am I correct that the fqan should run and the solonoid should open?
OMG this is becoming tedious.
Is it fair to say that the new head is defective?
So right now I'm going to retuen the new unit and get a different one.
So my question is, when 120V power is active and the two yellow wires are connected, am I correct that the fqan should run and the solonoid should open?
OMG this is becoming tedious.
#19
Yes, when you do plug in the unit, 120v goes to the transformer, and drops down to 24v. Yellow wires are low voltage, and when you touch it, fan and valve should come on.
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Getting closser !!
So the head is now working and I tested the humidistat with the HE360 and it turns it on and off.
And so then I put in the Model A50 Current sensing relay and NG. I think what I may have done this time is burn out the
A50 as it had an electrical buring smell.
The instructions say "do not connect relay without load in series (see wiring diagram). If I put the the relay in and didn't have it connected in the circuit would I be right and believe that I cooked it?
So the head is now working and I tested the humidistat with the HE360 and it turns it on and off.
And so then I put in the Model A50 Current sensing relay and NG. I think what I may have done this time is burn out the
A50 as it had an electrical buring smell.
The instructions say "do not connect relay without load in series (see wiring diagram). If I put the the relay in and didn't have it connected in the circuit would I be right and believe that I cooked it?
#21
And so then I put in the Model A50 Current sensing relay and NG.
I think what I may have done this time is burn out the
A50 as it had an electrical buring smell.
The instructions say "do not connect relay without load in series (see wiring diagram).

If I put the the relay in and didn't have it connected in the circuit would I be right and believe that I cooked it?
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Yes, wired as you diagramed, but at least one time, while testing the system, it's leads were not attached in the circuit, so there was no "load".
And as the instructions said, "do not connect relay without load in series" - which is exactly what I did do, so that's why I figured I fried it.
When I took it out, it had a burnt electrical smell.
Jay do you know of any way to test these relays?
If not I guess I'll call the company that made it and ask them if I cooked it.
And as the instructions said, "do not connect relay without load in series" - which is exactly what I did do, so that's why I figured I fried it.
When I took it out, it had a burnt electrical smell.
Jay do you know of any way to test these relays?
If not I guess I'll call the company that made it and ask them if I cooked it.
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts

It's Done and Working - finally, been working on this since 11/18 with many failures !! But it works !!
I bought the second A50 Relay and installed it today - with a double loop on the white common to insure there were enough amps to trigger the closing of the circuit and it worked perfectly.
Jay - thanks for all your help over the past month. I really do appreciate the help you gave me and so many others.
Have a wonderful holiday season.
Marty
I bought the second A50 Relay and installed it today - with a double loop on the white common to insure there were enough amps to trigger the closing of the circuit and it worked perfectly.
Jay - thanks for all your help over the past month. I really do appreciate the help you gave me and so many others.
Have a wonderful holiday season.
Marty


