Aprilaire 760 peoblems

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  #41  
Old 12-30-10, 08:41 PM
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Jay:
The humidistat is apparently from a third-party OEM supplier.

It is labeled:

88402 IBS Humidity Controller

Rating 120 VAC or 240 VAC
FLA (full load?) 12 A 6A
LRA (locked rotor?) 50 A 25A
RES (resistive?) 12 A 6A

Under that it says: "Cust P/N"

And printed sideways in large white numberals it says:

"020610" , which I am assuming is an Aprilarie Part Number


Does that help? Let me know.

Tony
 
  #42  
Old 12-30-10, 08:51 PM
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None of those numbers come back to anything at all.

Is it a digital one? They are either #58 or #60

or manual, they are #4655 or #56
 
  #43  
Old 12-30-10, 08:52 PM
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Jay:

I looked on the Aprilaire Part website

Buy Aprilaire #4655 Humidistat | Aprilaire 4655

and the humidistat shown there that looks like the one they shipped with the 760M is their part number 4655

Tony
 
  #44  
Old 12-30-10, 08:58 PM
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Ok, you wire just like you see in the drawing. (Manual control)

Wire the transformer to HUM on your system.
 
  #45  
Old 12-30-10, 09:18 PM
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Okay, Jay.

Let me be sure I understand....

Right now, the yellow solenoid wires go from the valve back into the housing. So, if I cut them, and connect the yellow wires coming from the solenoid valve to the supplied transformer, with one lead being sent through the humidistat, I can see how that supplies 24 VAC power to open the valve when the humidistat calls for humidity.

But what do I do with the two cut yellow wires leading back into the housing?

And what about the 2 brown wires? Do I just cap them off with wire nuts? And how does the recommended wiring cause the fan motor to power on when the solenoid valve sends water through the evaporator panel? The diagram says there is a relay inside the 760M housing that causes the fan motor to receive 120 VAC from the 3-pronged wall-socket plug that exits the humidifier. So how does that relay get its 24 VAC power with the Brown wires and the yellow wires cut and capped?

Finally, the diagram says that I wire the transformer to the "EAC" terminals. So are these the same as the HUM terminals you describe above?

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Tony
 
  #46  
Old 12-30-10, 09:23 PM
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No don't cut any wires. Just use the two wires hanging out.

Yes the Hum on your is the EAC on the drawing.
 
  #47  
Old 12-30-10, 09:33 PM
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Okay, Jay. That makes more sense.

What threw me off was the diagram indicating the yellow wires are to be connected to the 24 VAC power source. The only way to make that connection would be to cut the yellow wires.

Actually, I think the 2 brown wires are connected to the yellow wires when the humidifier housing is closed and the 4-wire plug on the lid mates with the 4-wire socket on the base. I will test that to be sure, but I think this coupling of the lid with the base also sends 24 VAC to the fan motor relay to switch on the humidifier's powered fan.

I will look for the EAC leads....... I am assuming they are near the furnace's blower motor and are clearly marked. I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks!

Tony
 
  #48  
Old 12-30-10, 09:37 PM
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Use the HUM that way it comes on heat mode.
 
  #49  
Old 12-30-10, 09:39 PM
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Okay.

I am going down to the basement now with my flashlight and Multi-meter in hand.

Wish me luck!

Tony
 
  #50  
Old 12-30-10, 09:43 PM
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Good luck! I'm off to bed.
 
  #51  
Old 12-30-10, 09:51 PM
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Well, it was a short trip.

I have a White Rodger 50A50-288 contol panel with 2 pairs of EAC / HUM terminals.

One is at the top of the board and one is at the bottom.

Does it make a difference which pair I tap into?

Also, I am assuming that I use EAC for the black 120 VAC lead and the HUM for the white lead.

Is that correct?

I probably won't mess with this until I hear back from you, so thanks for all your help.

I think I am almost there.

Tony
 
  #52  
Old 12-30-10, 10:04 PM
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I think I may have answered my own question, Jay.

It looks like the bank of terminals on the left side of the Contol Panel are all labeled "Hot 120VAC" and the bank on the right side are all labeled "Neutral 120VAC"

So I am assuming that the black wire of the transformer goes to the "HUM" terminal on the "Hot" side of the control panel and the white wire of the transformer goes to the "HUM" terminal on the "Neutral side of the control panel.

And this means that I do not attach anything to either of the "EAC" terminals (hot or neutral).

Please let me know if my thinking is correct and I will make these connections.


Thanks and good night!!

Tony
 
  #53  
Old 12-31-10, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Pepper View Post
So I am assuming that the black wire of the transformer goes to the "HUM" terminal on the "Hot" side of the control panel and the white wire of the transformer goes to the "HUM" terminal on the "Neutral side of the control panel.
Correct!

Go ahead and wire the transformer to those two HUM terminal, and the way you go.
 
  #54  
Old 12-31-10, 05:51 AM
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Jay:

I feel kinda dumb, cause I just realized that EAC stands for "Electronic Air Cleaner". And now I know why you told me to use the HUM terminals, because they must only be energized when the thermostat calls for heat. Whereas the EAC terminals get energized any time the blower runs, whether it be for heat or A/C.

So, if

1. My thermostat is switched to "Heat" and
2. I set the thermostat to a temperature that is below the room temperature, and
3. If I switch the fan from "Auto" to "On" to run the heater blower and
4. If the humidity in the air in the cold return plenum is below what the humidistat is set for,

Will the humidifier run when I use the HUM terminals?

Tony
 
  #55  
Old 12-31-10, 06:01 AM
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The HUM will come on any time there's call for heat, it won't power up if you ran the fan "ON" mode.

EAC will power up ANY time the blower is running, Heat, Cool, and Fan "ON". YOu don't want it to run in cooling, so that's why it's going on HUM.
 
  #56  
Old 12-31-10, 07:39 AM
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Okay, Jay. Got it!

I just went out and bought some female spade connectors to mate with the male connectors on the control board. So after I install a little wire and do a little crimping and I should (finally) be properly configured. I just hope I did not fry anything in the new 760M (fan relay, etc.) when I had it hooked up incorrectly.

What I am hoping for when I finish (hopefully this morning) is to see water coming out of the drain tube and to hear the fan running inside the 760M's housing.

Wish me luck..... and THANKS!!

Tony
 
  #57  
Old 12-31-10, 05:08 PM
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Wish you the best, and I am guesing you are up and running?
 
  #58  
Old 01-01-11, 10:08 AM
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Not yet, Jay. We had some family stuff to do for New Year's and I got tied up with that. But I'm close, thanks to your help. I'll post a reply as soon as I get the 760M working.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

Tony
 
  #59  
Old 01-08-11, 08:48 PM
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Success installing Aprilaire 760M !!!!!!

Happy New Year, Jay!

I wanted to let you know that I got the Aprilaire 760M up and running. I got slowed down by the holidays, the lack of the proper materials and not enough free time. First I had to buy the correct spade connectors and find the right gauge wires. And then, with all the family activities and traveling, it was hard to sneak away to the basement and spend the focused time I needed to complete the wiring.

Your help and your patience in swapping messages with me made all the difference and I really want to thank you!

I will look forward to our next chance to communicate.

Thanks again and best regards,

Tony
 
  #60  
Old 01-08-11, 09:09 PM
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Tony,

Thanks for the update, and glad to hear it's up and running. Now you can sit down and relax on Sunday!

Have good evening.
 
  #61  
Old 01-12-11, 08:35 AM
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Maximum Humidity Achievable with Aprilarie 760M?

Hi Jay:

Do you have any idea what maximum interior humidity can be achieved with this Aprilaire 760M? I have one of those wall mounted "weather stations" (with temperature, humidity and barometric pressure gauges) in my home near where my thermostat is located in my dining room and I have not been able to get above 29% humidity dispite running the 760M at maximum for several days. The air feels a bit dry as well.

As far as I can tell the 760M is functioning properly. The solenoid valve kicks on when the humidistat calls for humidification and there is water running through the evaporative panel because I can see it draining through the out-flow tube. The internal fan is also powering on when the humidistat calls for humidification.

What I am noticing that is different from my old unit is that I am not seeing condensation droplets forming at the bases of some of my windows. The appearance of condenstation, to me, indicates that the air is holding all the moisture it can at the ambient interior temperature. Seeing that condensation used to be my visual confirmation that the (old) humidifier was running at maximum.

Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated. By the way, the 760M is plumbed to the hot water supply for maximum water evaporation.

Thanks!

Tony
 
  #62  
Old 01-12-11, 09:32 AM
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Make sure the pad has the painted side up.

Is the furnace running long cycles or short?
 
  #63  
Old 01-12-11, 09:51 AM
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Thanks for the prompt reply, Jay.

I checked the pad and the red-paint mark is on top. I have to pay closer attention to the cycle times on the heater. I watch this and get back to you.

Tony
 
  #64  
Old 01-12-11, 10:18 AM
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Sounds good. What do you have for t-stat?
 
  #65  
Old 01-17-11, 07:51 PM
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Furnace Cycle Times

Hi Jay:

Sorry for the delay in replying.

To answer your question, with the T-stat calling for 70 degrees, the furnace cycle is 10 minutes on followed by 9 minutes off. The T-stat is an ancient (26+ y.o.) Honeywell simple bi-metal thermostat, about as basic as you can get.

The interior humidity still has not budged above 29%.

Is there a way to increase the cycle time without calling for more heat? It's plenty warm in here, but it is still somewhat dry.

Please let me know what you think.


Thanks,

Tony
 
  #66  
Old 01-17-11, 07:57 PM
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To be specific about the Honeywell T-stat, here are the numbers from inside the housing:

Class 2 LR 1620
30 V Max
T834C1137
8625
 
  #67  
Old 01-17-11, 09:01 PM
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You could change the heat anticipator on the t-stat, but that will make it a bit warmer than a newer digital stat.
 
  #68  
Old 01-21-11, 03:16 PM
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Still at 29% Humidity

Hi Jay:
I'm still holding at 29% humidity. I think the humidity would improve / increase if I could get the Aprilaire to run when the blower fan is operating but the heat is off (i.e. "Fan On" setting on the T-stat). My reasoning is that the heat from the furnace is what is driving the humidity out of the air, so if I can humidify the air when there is no call for heat, I might be able to get the humidity above 29%. Does that make sense to you? Please let me know.

Thanks!

Tony
 
  #69  
Old 01-21-11, 04:30 PM
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is your Humidifier being fed with hot water or cold water?
 
  #70  
Old 01-21-11, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
is your Humidifier being fed with hot water or cold water?
He got it on hot..

Tony, Do you have other humidity gauges in the house that agreeing with this?
 
  #71  
Old 01-22-11, 09:05 PM
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Hi Guys:
Jay is correct. The saddle valve for the humidifier is fed from the hot water pipe coming off the domestic hot water heater.
The 29% humidity reading is coming from one of those old analog "weather stations" (with dials that show temperature, barometric pressure and humidity). This is a totally mechanical instrument mounted to the wall in my dining room near the T-stat. This is not a digital or electrified meter, but it has always been pretty reliable in the past. This is the only humidity meter I have.

The only other indicator of humidity is that with my old Aprilaire humidifier, when I turned it up all the way to maximum I would see droplets of condensation /moisture at the bases of some of my windows, indicating that the air in the house was holding as much humidity as possible at the ambient temperature. I am not seeing that condensation any more, which is consistent with my feeling that the air is a bit dry.

Hope that helps. I would value your thoughts.

Thanks,

Tony
 
  #72  
Old 01-22-11, 09:12 PM
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Independent humidity check - hand-held meter?

Hi again, Jay.

If you can recommend a reliable hand-held or other portable humidity meter, I will go out and get one. Maybe my "weather station" is not giving me good information and the interior humidity is actually higher than it is indicating. Please let me know.

Thanks,

Tony
 
  #73  
Old 01-23-11, 07:13 AM
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I don't know what one to suggest since I haven't had a need for one. I would just get a basic one from say Target or ShopKo.
 
  #74  
Old 01-23-11, 03:58 PM
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Hi Jay:
It looks like Radio Shack has a digital humidity meter for about $20 with decent reviews. I will pick one up and monitor the humidity and compare that to what my old weather station tells me. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks, again, for all your help.

Regards,

Tony
 
  #75  
Old 12-14-11, 05:08 PM
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HELP - Humidifier clunks on and off continuously

I have a 12 year old aprilaire 760 with the Auto-Trac humidistat. When the furnace goes on, the humidifier clunks on and off every half seconds about five times and then stops and then does it again. over and over again and over again. Water and fan are running, but the clunking is driving us crazy. Seems to happen when it warms up outside to the 40s and 50s.

The tech at aprilaire suggested wrapping the humidistat in plastic, but that didn't work. Does anyone have an idea how to fix this, or do i have to replace the unit??

It was installed professionally, and worked well for years, but for the last few years, it's been a problem and no one seems to have a solution.
 
 

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