install of aprilaire 700 with carrier infinity 96 (58MVP)

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  #41  
Old 12-22-07, 04:57 PM
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Question installation angle?

Current install here, and another here


Is the angle that the humidifier is installed at too much? Is any angle too much? I'd think that the water would potentially not have enough filter for absorption and drip inside. There is a vertical section of the return just below this and I could simply do the install here, but it does start to get in the way... Thoughts?

Is there a good way to cut the ductwork? I have a sheet metal snips but it's slow going and not particularly accurate.

I'll have to get clarification about the new wiring. It's confusing to me at best....

Get back to me when you're able. Have a good weekend.


Richie
 

Last edited by skydiverMN; 12-22-07 at 04:59 PM. Reason: added a pic
  #42  
Old 12-22-07, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Is the angle that the humidifier is installed at too much? Is any angle too much?
Yes, any angle is too much. Move it down to a level side.

Is there a good way to cut the ductwork? I have a sheet metal snips but it's slow going and not particularly accurate.
Red and Green handles? Red in your right hand, and cuts to the left. Green in your left hand, and cuts to the right.

I'll have to get clarification about the new wiring. It's confusing to me at best....
What area? Humidifer itself, two stage, or dehumid?
 
  #43  
Old 12-23-07, 09:24 AM
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Question Strike ONE!

Fooey. So now I'm gonna have a nice hole in my return that requires patching. Actually, it's not a nice hole at all. Jagged, bent-in edges, etc... Ugly and dangerous, but the patch will cover up all of my amateur-ness.

I have an OLD snips from an even older dude that I know. It's just got 1 color handles, and looking online it's the straight cutting type. See an example here

Okay, so let me get this straight about furnace/t-stat wiring...
To remove the timer function on the 2-stage heating, I need to do the following:

          My initial idea for the humidifier is this:
          Power: COM, HUM terminal on the circuit board (25.9v when tested). These go to the specific power terminals within the h-stat that will reside in the return

          The other connections will be for the outside temp sensor, and the lines that connect to the water valve on the humidifier itself. What changes do you recommend to this, if any?

          How are you talking about incorporating the DHUM terminal? I didn't find any voltage running through this terminal at any point in the process. Please be more specific and correct any error from above. Thanks!

          It's all a journey, right?

          Richie
           

          Last edited by skydiverMN; 12-23-07 at 09:27 AM. Reason: add pic of snips
            #44  
          Old 12-23-07, 09:39 AM
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          Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
          Okay, so let me get this straight about furnace/t-stat wiring...
          To remove the timer function on the 2-stage heating, I need to do the following:
            No, put the unused red wire on H, and put it on DHUM on board.

              The unused one again.
                  Correct.


                  How are you talking about incorporating the DHUM terminal? I didn't find any voltage running through this terminal at any point in the process.
                  You are not going to find power at DHUM, the power is coming from the H at the t-stat when the humidity level is high in the summer.


                  FYI, heading out to Lake City, (If weather permits us), won't be back till late tmrw.

                  Merry Christmas!
                   
                    #45  
                  Old 12-29-07, 06:09 PM
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                  Smile It's getting there...

                  I'd have more photos, but my Craftman drill w/ old ni-cads just won't charge and that happens to be my only drill/driver. I'm not into driving my own self taping screws through ductwork. <---now, that's appropriate.

                  I patched my initial angled install. Sure it's functional but not all that pretty anymore. I should have known that it was going to be a bad place to put it. Oh well.

                  The new install area is just below the patch and perfectly level. I also got a new snips and it made all the difference when cutting. Here's the new install minus any ductwork.

                  I added a 'T' into my hotwater copper supply line, installed a shutoff and successfully ran the 1/4" line. While I had the water off I decided to cut out an old saddle valve that was there from the original humidifier.

                  When I'm back online with my batteries (recharged or replaced...) I'll finish the ductwork, and hook up the power and outside temp sensor. Once this is done I'll deal with the other changes that you've suggested. It's getting there, and it's still fun.

                  Have a Happy New Year!

                  Thanks.
                  Richie
                   
                    #46  
                  Old 12-29-07, 06:15 PM
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                  Looking good so far! Will be waiting for the end results.
                   
                    #47  
                  Old 01-01-08, 05:32 PM
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                  Talking Done!

                  After buying myself a new Milwaukee cordless drill to finish the job (you gotta have the right tools, right?) it all installed without any problem. Here's a pic of the ductwork and humidifier.

                  I never worked with compression fittings so when I realized that you could simply put one on the end of copper pipe I was happy. I thought I'd need to do all sorts of different fittings to get to the 1/4" that I needed. Nope. It was easy, I just needed to seriously torque that thing on. Here's a pic of that.

                  I have yet to change the W2 wiring, etc. I'll get to that soon. I'll post again here when I get to the next step. Thank you so much for all the help and time that you've spent with me. It's been a fun project, easy and definitely a DIY kinda thing. Thanks again!

                  Richie
                   
                    #48  
                  Old 01-01-08, 05:42 PM
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                  Very good job there Richie!


                  Why the coupling on the water line?? Could of just cut the T in.

                  I would do the W2 tonight, should take 3 min to do.. That way with our below zero temp you can get a nice long run time!

                  Glad to be hear to help you and thanks for sharing the photo!
                   
                    #49  
                  Old 01-01-08, 06:41 PM
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                  Lightbulb Yeah, I see what you mean.

                  Yep, I coulda saved myself a bunch of sweatin' with making the cut and just putting in the T. I pre-sweated the pipes that were going to fit in that place so I simply measured what I had created and cut. Next time I'll remember that I can make it a BUNCH easier. Thanks for the tip.

                  Richie
                   
                    #50  
                  Old 01-01-08, 08:51 PM
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                  Question Hand holding and a few more questions.

                  The 3 extra wires (red, white, green) that are taped up at the t-stat are the same wires that I found at the furnace.

                  Here's what I did:

                  T-Stat

                  Red wire to H
                  White wire to W2

                  Furnace
                  Red wire to DHUM
                  white wire to W2
                  SW1 dip#2 ON

                  Cool, nothing blew up when the furnace ran. It seemed to immediately spool up to full bore instead of the "I think I'll start to think about heating the house" (low heat) mode. Is this the 2stage timer being removed from the equation because enough heat is demanded that it knows to go to full heat? I think I have some of the lingo correct. Am I correct on this assumption? When does the variable speed motor come into play, or is that simply a more efficient user of power than an AC motor? Seemed like the right way to go because we wanted to run the fan all the time for filtering/air moving purposes.

                  Also, my T-stat now reads HEAT2 when actively heating. Before the H,W2 being hooked up and the dip2:ON it simply said HEAT. No biggie, but have any idea what this means?

                  Also, is there a required 3rd step with more wiring or am I now setup with 'dehumidify mode' for summer AC?
                  Actually, I've never noticed any problem with the house being cool/comfortable enough when the AC is running, and brother let me tell you, we run it all the time.
                  Can you explain exactly what I've now done with hooking the wiring this way? I don't follow how the dehumidify mode will be working. Is there anything else that I should be doing or is it time to simply move on to an new project? There's always winter skydiving to do... You don't think about the cold until you're under parachute, and then it's just a 2 minute ride.

                  Looking forward to hearing back from you soon. Thanks!


                  Thanks!
                   
                    #51  
                  Old 01-02-08, 08:52 AM
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                  Question Answering some of my own questions

                  I did a bit of research on the RiteTemp website, and now that W2 is hooked up the t-stat knows when it is in low heat or high heat. Low heat = HEAT and high heat = HEAT2.

                  So, I think that I should be mad at my installer for being lazy on this. What's the point of an upgraded furnace if it's not installed as it should be?

                  Still curious about how the 'new' DHUM feature will work. Please explain when you're able.

                  Thanks,
                  Richie
                   
                    #52  
                  Old 01-02-08, 09:51 AM
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                  Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
                  So, I think that I should be mad at my installer for being lazy on this. What's the point of an upgraded furnace if it's not installed as it should be?
                  There are a few out there who never bothers with upselling a two stage t-stat. It's sad.. You are not going to get the full comfort on a timer. Some are just lazy, or wants to keep their bid lower with out adding the cost of the two stage t-stat and labor if needed to pull new wires.

                  I've changed a few friends/family over to a two stage, and they notice the comfort.

                  Still curious about how the 'new' DHUM feature will work. Please explain when you're able.
                  When there is call for cool on a normal system, the blower moves about 400 cfm per ton. (If your dip switches are set that way) That's a good goal on a avg summer day.. How ever if it's really humid out the air flow is a bit too fast to allow the coil to remove the humidity in the air.

                  So when the humidity level is above say 45%, the t-stat is going to tell the furnace to slow down the blower about 86% speed vs 100% speed.

                  When the blower is going slower, the air going over the coil is slower to allow the air to get colder, and remove the humidity. Once the humidity is below 45%, the blower then returns to it's full speed.

                  Ideal set point is 45%, and you may of felt fine with 50%, but You may notice the house may feel cooler with the lower humidity level.

                  I used to run our old oversized A/C at 72˚, When we moved here, put in the new furnace and A/C I was able to move it up to 76˚, and then I upgraded the t-stat to the Honeywell IAQ, and control the humidity at 45%, and now the house feels more cooler now.. But I kept it at 76˚.
                   
                    #53  
                  Old 01-02-08, 11:40 AM
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                  Question Dehumidification

                  My RiteTemp (think Rite Price when I bought it vs. Honeywell IAQ) can control humidity and shows the current humidity on the display. I don't know if it's correct because it usually shows 20%, with a short period of time where it went as high as 31%. This morning our windows (which all have tight closing slat blinds or the 'cell' type) were icy at the bottom. This is probably being due to the automatic setting being too high. Easy fix, and I'll drop the h-stat to a lower number...

                  With the summer dehumidification, is there anything that I need to do for this humidity 'set point'? Is this a question for the manufacturer of the t-stat? Also, I don't know if the t-stat is correctly reading humidity levels. If so, I assume that this will create a problem for the whole dhum process.... It just never ends.

                  Thanks.
                   
                    #54  
                  Old 01-02-08, 11:58 AM
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                  Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
                  I don't know if it's correct because it usually shows 20%, with a short period of time where it went as high as 31%. This morning our windows (which all have tight closing slat blinds or the 'cell' type) were icy at the bottom. This is probably being due to the automatic setting being too high. Easy fix, and I'll drop the h-stat to a lower number...
                  You are going to have some ice on the windows if the blinds are shut.. Mine had a little this am when I opened the bedroom blinds this morning... My control drop the humidity about 25% at -2˚.

                  With the summer dehumidification, is there anything that I need to do for this humidity 'set point'?
                  May have to read the manual for your t-stat if you need to set up the menu.. But set that for 45% and leave it be.

                  Also, I don't know if the t-stat is correctly reading humidity levels. If so, I assume that this will create a problem for the whole dhum process.
                  I think it should be pretty accurite.. You can comapair it to your weather station if you got one.
                   
                   

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