install of aprilaire 700 with carrier infinity 96 (58MVP)

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Old 12-05-07, 11:26 AM
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Question install of aprilaire 700 with carrier infinity 96 (58MVP)

Please help! I've looked around within the forum and I still have some questions....

I have a Aprilaire 700 (powered fan) humidifier that I would like to connect to a Carrier Infinity 96 (58MVP, variable speed blower). Being fairly handy but not a tradesman in the HVAC field I have a few questions about some of the steps. Overall, it's seems straight forward enough.

Placement:
I don't have much room (only several inches) above the AC coil before there's a flexible plastic 'connector' that ties into the original ductwork. At this point it's a 'T' with some vertical room for humidifier placement. It's at this vertical section just below the 'T' where the original humidifier was installed (no longer there, no opening remains). We could also install it on the return ductwork, but this creates a situation where I could easily walk into it.
Is there a preferred placement that I should think about?

Power
This humidifier requires 24v for power. Does my 58MVP's HUM terminal supply 24v or 120V, or should I use a different accessory port besides HUM? Will I need a separate voltage sensor?

Running the humidifier only when blower motor is running
If my furnace board won't power a humidifier I know that I can use a separate voltage sensor, but which of the 4-6 wires that connects to the motor should I use? How do I determine which one?

Automatic humidity sensor
Is there a specific place I should put this? I assume that I'll have to make a small hole in the header board (or whatever it's called) to get access to the outside. It's probably a good idea to keep it away from the dryer vent so that it doesn't get a false reading, but what other concerns should I have?

Is there any documentation for what I'm trying to do with the components that I'm talking about?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!


Richie
 
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Old 12-05-07, 12:26 PM
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Wink

All the paper work you will need comes with the 700 .To wire it in I like to use the manual mode on the control and not use that ODT sensor set up. It will show you how to wire off the furnace accessory board. To the humidifier control . Its power cord you just plug in 110V Put it on the supply for sure (if you can) .Also use hot water to it, If you can
 
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Old 12-05-07, 12:45 PM
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Thumbs up This ain't nothing then?

So basically, don't sweat it?
Thanks for your reply!
 
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Old 12-05-07, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Placement:
I don't have much room (only several inches) above the AC coil before there's a flexible plastic 'connector' that ties into the original ductwork. At this point it's a 'T' with some vertical room for humidifier placement. It's at this vertical section just below the 'T' where the original humidifier was installed (no longer there, no opening remains). We could also install it on the return ductwork, but this creates a situation where I could easily walk into it.
Is there a preferred placement that I should think about?
The 700 is best on the supply side of ductwork.. Sounds like you don't have a lot of space?? Will the 700 fit where the old one was? Take a photo if you can?

Power
This humidifier requires 24v for power. Does my 58MVP's HUM terminal supply 24v or 120V, or should I use a different accessory port besides HUM? Will I need a separate voltage sensor?
HUM is 24 volts, we will use that. but my question, do you have the Infinity T-stat?


Automatic humidity sensor
Is there a specific place I should put this? I assume that I'll have to make a small hole in the header board (or whatever it's called) to get access to the outside. It's probably a good idea to keep it away from the dryer vent so that it doesn't get a false reading, but what other concerns should I have?
I am guessing you are in MN? I would use it! Our temps are pretty extream, and the outdoor sensor works well for us here.
 
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Old 12-05-07, 07:23 PM
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Talking Pics, more descriptions, and alas, more questions...

Yep, I'm in MN, how'd you guess?

Here are a few pics of what I've been talking about.
Here's our whole furnace setup.

From this pic you can't see the area where I plan on installing the humidifier. It's on the backside, the side closest to the stud wall. Here's a pic of the area. I will have to move the gas/electrical/drain line before anything will fit. This area is approx. 19" wide x 15" high. I haven't checked the unit's requirements but I hope that this is enough.....

When I was referring to not having room I was talking about the area directly above the refrigeration area (see first pic and area just above where black pipe enters the unit). Why I mentioned this I don't know because if I wanted to install the humidifier here I'd have to deal with the refrigeration line, which is something I don't wanna do. The back side area should be okay, yeah?

When I get the unit and know what I'm looking at I might pose the question of what goes where, but from what I understand it shouldn't be too difficult.

I do not have the special thermistat that was an option with the Infinity line. I do have a programmable RiteTemp 8085C (I think) that can control a humidifier and there are 2 (red?) wires that aren't being used that I capped off. I wonder if these could be control lines for the original 35yr old model. Personally, if I can have the auto humidistat unit do a decent job handling everything on its own I'm going to be perfectly happy.

A couple of questions: If the HUM is 24V that means that I can use this as one of the power terminals that attaches to the humidistat? The other power line would go to the 'Common' but what's that called on the circuit board? Will the HUM be energized when the heat is on, or when the fan is on? I currently run the fan all the time (getting my use outta the DC motor), so if the latter is true, will this cause a humidity issue, or will the auto unit sense ambient humidity and turn on/off as needed? That being said, I'd want to have this sensor in a livable area of the house, and not right next to the furnace in my basement, right?

Okay, so there you have it, some pics and more questions. I appreciate the help!

Thanks!
Richie
 
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Old 12-05-07, 08:31 PM
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That is an odd installation. No pipe for combustion air and the A/C dryer is at the coil. Does the copper gas line meet code? Also, you're not getting the performance you deserve without the Infinity thermostat.
 
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Old 12-05-07, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Yep, I'm in MN, how'd you guess?
Well, your screen name kinda gave it away! :-)

I will have to move the gas/electrical/drain line before anything will fit. This area is approx. 19" wide x 15" high. I haven't checked the unit's requirements but I hope that this is enough.....
Yikes.. You are going to be doing a lot of work for that unit! Why not go with a bypass unit? You have tons of space on the return, and run a bypass up to the supply duct above.

Have you ordered this???

I do not have the special thermistat that was an option with the Infinity line. I do have a programmable RiteTemp 8085C (I think) that can control a humidifier and there are 2 (red?) wires that aren't being used that I capped off.
Kinda going off track here, do you know if W2 is wired up at the t-stat and furnace? And, if you did get a bypass unit say from Home Depot, you can use that t-stat to control the humidifer.. With the 700, you can't use this t-stat.


A couple of questions: If the HUM is 24V that means that I can use this as one of the power terminals that attaches to the humidistat?
Yes.
The other power line would go to the 'Common' but what's that called on the circuit board?
C

Will the HUM be energized when the heat is on, or when the fan is on?
Just in Heat. We can make it work with the Fan, going to need a transformer.

I currently run the fan all the time (getting my use outta the DC motor), so if the latter is true, will this cause a humidity issue, or will the auto unit sense ambient humidity and turn on/off as needed? That being said, I'd want to have this sensor in a livable area of the house, and not right next to the furnace in my basement, right?
You can run the fan all the time along with the humidifier. The humidistat will cycle it on and off as needed.. I had mine set up this way last year, I really didn't gain anything out of it having it run along with the fan, so I switch my t-stat set up to only run humidifier on call of heat. (I have a Honeywell IAQ t-stat... NICE stat!)


I did notice in the pix they didn't run a pipe to the outside for fresh air for the burners...
 
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Old 12-05-07, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by slickracer View Post
That is an odd installation. No pipe for combustion air
Yeah, I brought that up.

and the A/C dryer is at the coil.
What's wrong with that? Nothing says it has to be outside next to the A/C unit.

Does the copper gas line meet code?
Copper has been used for many years around here, and it's OK. My house was built in '68, and I got copper from the ground to the meter.

Also, you're not getting the performance you deserve without the Infinity thermostat.
I agree, that's why I asked about that, but his budget then may of not allowed him to get one.
 
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Old 12-06-07, 08:17 AM
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More answers and clarification

Thanks for all the time everyone's spent on responding and helping me out.

Combustion air enters the house through an insulated plastic tube about 15' away and is sitting inside an empty 5gal bucket. If I put my hand into the bucket you can feel cold air moving, so it's open to the outside and unobstructed. Also, just below where I would like to install the humidifier, there's a small snorkel that pulls air directly into the furnace. It's not attached directly to the outside, so this was probably just a lazy short cut. Also it's probably not so energy efficient seeing outside air is just pouring into our basement vs. the furnace just taking what it needs. I might change this, but that's farther down on the list of things to do. I assume that's what you were talking about regarding the combustion air issue.

The additional cost of the special t-stat didn't make sense and our installer didn't push or explain how the t-stat would help us/why it's necessary. Perhaps a lack of selling ability on their part but at this point I don't see the need to spend any more.

Yeah, I already ordered the 700 and I should receive it soon. Perhaps not the brightest thing without all the info, but I do have the ability to return it if required.
Can you be more specific on what you mean by this install taking a bunch of work?

Bypass unit? Do you recommend that I use something like the Aprilaire 600 vs. the powered 700 (name brand is insignificant)? Why? I guess I've only seen horizontal and straight runs for the bypass tube and I didn't think it would work for my 'strange' setup. I can't picture where each part of the bypass unit would go (humidifier itself and the bypass). Wouldn't the unit go on the supply side, with the bypass to the return? Can you bend the bypass tube 90 degrees to go around a corner to get to the install area I've shown in the pics, or does this take too much away from the air velocity? It would be nice if you could be more specific, maybe download my pics, draw on them, and post them somewhere?

I'm looking for the most convenient install that I can get, but I don't mind doing the electrical, etc. as I'm fairly capable of electrocuting, I mean wiring/installing this kinda stuff on my own. Could the 'alotta work' comment be referring to this?

I don't know anything specific about the current wiring because I haven't taken a good look recently.

Okay, so here we are again. Awaiting your responses....

Thanks!
 
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Old 12-06-07, 08:29 AM
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I am on my way out the door for work, so I will post back tonight.
 
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Old 12-06-07, 08:37 AM
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Talking 700 size...

The plenum opening for the 700 is 14 7/8" x 14 3/16" with the mounting holes on the top and bottom, well within my tight horizontal spacing. While it's almost as wide as my available area, it seems that spacing is sufficient.

Just an update....
 
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Old 12-06-07, 07:22 PM
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As for "Lot of work" you said you may have to move the gas line... ect that may be in the way?

here is what I ment by putting it on the return with a by-pass unit.

 
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Old 12-06-07, 08:09 PM
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Question I gotcha now....

I see what you're talking about now. Thanks for putting it in a picture. The issue I have with the unit being on the return is that this area is fairly narrow and near our washer/dryer which is just out of frame. My wife and I aren't all that tall so we'd probably smack our heads on it walking by or back into it when dealing with the washing. That being said, it's not totally out of the running, just not part of my initial plan.

Which type of system is better for my situation, powered or bypass? Can the 700 be put here if I decide that I don't wanna deal with all the movement of the stuff on the other side, or is there that much of a positive difference putting it on the supply side?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-06-07, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Can the 700 be put here if I decide that I don't wanna deal with all the movement of the stuff on the other side, or is there that much of a positive difference putting it on the supply side?
You could put the 700 where I'd suggested, but it going to have to run longer to achive the humidity. They are best on the supply side to get the heat to help add humidity to the air.

Where the bypass unit, the pad is going to get hot air from the bypass duct tapped into the supply duct.

You haven't replied to my question about if the W2 is hooked up at the t-stat, and furnace?
 
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Old 12-06-07, 10:24 PM
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Question W2 ain't doing nuffin'.

Looking at the wiring, I have a green and a white wire that's not doing anything (capped off) and W2 is currently empty . So what's this mean?
 
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Old 12-07-07, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Looking at the wiring, I have a green and a white wire that's not doing anything (capped off) and W2 is currently empty . So what's this mean?
With W2 not wired up, your furnace is going on a timer for 2nd stage, IT may take up to 20 min before it fired off 2nd stage.

So hook up the W2 wire at t-stat and match it with same color at the furnace's W2. Then dipswitch #2 to ON.

What color is wired up to W1 and G?
 
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Old 12-07-07, 06:30 AM
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Question wire colors

W1 = white (or as close to that as there is, dusty?)
G = green

What does the W2, dip#2 = on allow? No timer on 2nd stage? All based on needed heat vs. timer?

 
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Old 12-07-07, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
W1 = white (or as close to that as there is, dusty?)
G = green
Ok, you must got an extra set of wires going down there?? Cuz you said you had green and white wire capped off.
What does the W2, dip#2 = on allow? No timer on 2nd stage? All based on needed heat vs. timer?
Turning dip switch to On is telling the board that you are using a two stage t-stat, and only will get 2nd stage heat as needed.

Nice thing abotu using the two stage t-stat, you will get a faster recovery in the morning from set back, not waiting for it to fire off on 2nd stage say 20 min later!

Also doing a 2 stage tstat, the furnace will stay in 1st stage, meaning longer run time, better comfort! 2nd stage will only fire off when the temp falls behind. So on our below zero days, the furnace should run pretty steady.

Ready for the -6˚ tonight? :-) Be a good time to wire it up that way!
 
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Old 12-10-07, 08:02 PM
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Question 700 is out.... Hello 600?

Well, I got the 700 today and there's NO way that it'll fit in the area that I had hoped. Sure, I'd have the required space available if there was nothing around it and if the unit was 1" thick, but alas, it's not. Not even close . Kinda makes you wonder what I was smokin' that day.

So, you think I should just go with the 600 and run the bypass to the supply side, per your picture? Does it make any difference if the bypass tube is bent or does it need to remain straight? I will need to make a 90 degrees corner to go around the side of the furnace and then I'll need to make another 90 degree turn to attach to the supply side. I'm assuming that it won't but no one has discussed this and I've not seen any professional installations.

Regarding the timer mode seeing my W2 isn't hooked up: This morning it appeared to be 10 or 15 minutes (It was 6:13am, so it could got either way) from the less powerful to the more powerful fan speeds, vs. your 20 minute estimate. I assume that this is the 2 stage thing that you talked about? Perhaps not, seeing I have a variable speed fan... Is it that there's 2 stages to the burner level, so you don't always have to run full bore and only heat a little bit until more is needed? Clarification perhaps?

I'll get back to you on the extra green and white wires and what's up with that in a later post....

Richie
 

Last edited by skydiverMN; 12-10-07 at 08:04 PM. Reason: w1 should be w2
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Old 12-10-07, 08:10 PM
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Maybe it's time for have a professional look at it and stop farting around?
 
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Old 12-10-07, 08:29 PM
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Thumbs up Dude, you're no fun.

Certainly not spoken like a true DIYer. This whole process is fun as far as I'm concerned but your point is well taken. I haven't reached that stage of throwing in the towel plus there's no reason to concede defeat yet. Nothing's happened yet and no trips to a 24hr Home Depot are required. We're simply just talkin'.

Opinions are always welcome when they're helpful.

Thanks,
Richie
 
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Old 12-10-07, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Well, I got the 700 today and there's NO way that it'll fit in the area that I had hoped. . Kinda makes you wonder what I was smokin' that day.
That's why I brought up the "Yikes.. You are going to be doing a lot of work for that unit!"

So, you think I should just go with the 600 and run the bypass to the supply side, per your picture? Does it make any difference if the bypass tube is bent or does it need to remain straight?
No, the run does not have to be straight. Mine makes a few angle before I made it up to the supply.


Your furnace will vary on 2nd stage timer, I was just using the 20 min for an example. You will notice an incress in blower speed when it goes into 2nd stage.
 
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Old 12-11-07, 09:19 AM
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Question We're getting there....

Okay, just to do a quick shout-out... I really appreciate all the time that everyone's given me with my questions. For me, it's a learning process and the satisfaction of DIYin' is worth the 'hassles' and time invested. The whole journey is a learning experience. Thanks again.

Onto the Qs...

With the passive unit (probably an Aprilaire 600), I know that I need to connect the bypass tube to the supply side. My supply section quickly T's about 18" above the AC coil (this is the section where I wanted to put the model 700). Will the bypass have sufficient air if I put it onto just one side of this division, or should I snake around to the opposite side of the furnace and put my bypass into this pre-T area? I assume the more forceful the air, the better, but does it really make a difference?

Is there a better way to connect the water vs. the saddle valve? I can sweat copper without any issues (and it's fun) so would it be better to do something else?

I plan on connecting to my HOT water supply. Any issues that you can think of or reason why I shouldn't?

Thanks!
Richie
 
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Old 12-11-07, 02:07 PM
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Wink

Is there a better way to connect the water vs. the saddle valve? I can sweat copper without any issues (and it's fun) so would it be better to do something else?
Yes :You say you can solder. so cut a T in the hot water line and screw in a shut off valve Get one the 1/4" copper line will just slip right into.
 
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Old 12-11-07, 08:29 PM
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I'm with Ed, put a T on the line and a good shut off valve.

You can put the bypass anywhere, just as long it's not get blocked by the A/C coil.

what on the back side?
 
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Old 12-13-07, 09:14 AM
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Talking Extra wires, backside, etc.

The extra green and white wire that I mentioned before appear to be 2 of 3 wires that were cut from the original humidifier that was on the old furnance. I found the bundled line tucked away behind some pipes, so I believe that I could now mount the humidistat in the living area adjacent to the t-stat. Is there a good way to test if my visible wires tucked behind the t-stat are the cut wires in the basement? I was thinking of attaching a 9v to 2 of the wires and testing the current on the other end and seeing if anything registers. Sounds like it would work, but is there a better way of doing something like this?

Because my model of t-stat can control humidity levels do I gain anything by hooking up the wires to this? I assume that this would be similar to the manual mode because I would arbitrarily select a percentage, regardless of outside temp. As the temp drops outside, my humidity levels will require adjustment to keep condensation to a minimum. By using the included h-stat I can get the more automatic mode... To me I think this sounds better, and I'm sure that you'll agree. Thoughts?

Is there an advantage to installing the h-stat into the return duct as I've seen in some installations? I doubt that I'd need to 'mess' with the control too much, but I'm curious what you think would be best location.

Seeing I can put the bypass anywhere on the supply side, it doesn't sound that I need to put it at the spot before the 'T'. I'll just make the bypass line short and sweet and connect it to one side of the T, similar to the pic that's further down on the post.

That's about it, until I receive my 600 in the mail.

Thanks!
Richie
 
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Old 12-13-07, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
I found the bundled line tucked away behind some pipes, so I believe that I could now mount the humidistat in the living area adjacent to the t-stat.
You found the wire going up the wall near the t-stat?

Is there a good way to test if my visible wires tucked behind the t-stat are the cut wires in the basement?
Do you have a meter with a Ohm Scale? Wrap the two wires together at one end, and the other end take the meter and take a reading.. if you see changes in reading, then the wire is good. (Touch the two probe first and you'll see what I mean)

Because my model of t-stat can control humidity levels do I gain anything by hooking up the wires to this? I assume that this would be similar to the manual mode because I would arbitrarily select a percentage, regardless of outside temp. As the temp drops outside, my humidity levels will require adjustment to keep condensation to a minimum.
That's right. It's up to you if you want to change it manualy like today we are in the 30's˚, then back down to the 10's˚ tmrw.

By using the included h-stat I can get the more automatic mode... To me I think this sounds better, and I'm sure that you'll agree. Thoughts?
I agree!

Is there an advantage to installing the h-stat into the return duct as I've seen in some installations? I doubt that I'd need to 'mess' with the control too much, but I'm curious what you think would be best location.
If you go with what you get with Aprilaire, best to put it on return, that way you don't have to fish wires upstairs, and outside. Also the return is good, that way you can get a good avg reading from the whole house in the main return than just one area.


Thanks!
Richie
LOL you sure love hitting the wall! What does the other half say about that?? You must have a flat forehead by now! hehe
 
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Old 12-13-07, 01:06 PM
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Thumbs up Head Bangin' Ball

Seeing you mentioned that you recommended putting the h-stat into the return I don't think I need to worry about having to run wires. Does this remove the temperature bulb from the equation, or will this combine the current house humidity with what it should be based on outside temp?

Nah, my head's not flat yet. Personally, I haven't really expended all that much energy. The real head bangin' occurs when I have to patch a 1 sq foot hole in my return duct, or visit the ER with cut tendons in my finger , etc...

Personally, it doesn't sound too difficult, mostly because I've had someone to bounce questions off. You didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, did you? If I can do this, I can do anything.

The other half generally doesn't like 'detaily' stuff, and most certainly isn't into DIY. I'm on my own here, and she just wants to know when it's done. Nothing's happened yet (see head bangin' items from above), minus a trip to UPS to return the model 700. I'll probably get the 600 next week and start the install then.

Thanks again for your help. I'll keep you posted

Richie
 
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Old 12-13-07, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Does this remove the temperature bulb from the equation, or will this combine the current house humidity with what it should be based on outside temp?
I would still run the outdoor sensor even if it's on the return.. Then outdoor sensor adj the humidity based on outdoor temp.
Nah, my head's not flat yet. Personally, I haven't really expended all that much energy. The real head bangin' occurs when I have to patch a 1 sq foot hole in my return duct, or visit the ER with cut tendons in my finger , etc...
I think all will go well for ya, no trip to the ER.
Personally, it doesn't sound too difficult, mostly because I've had someone to bounce questions off. You didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, did you?
LOL no, I haven't stayed at the Holiday Inn for a while.. may of been 5 years ago?

If I can do this, I can do anything.
Wow... I dunno if I would have the guts to do that! Looks fun tho! Maybe some day I'll be brave enough to do it. Where do you sky dive at most of the time?



Thanks again for your help. I'll keep you posted

Richie
Glad to be here and helping you and others!
 
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Old 12-14-07, 08:18 AM
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Talking outdoor sensor

Outdoor sensor it is...

I'm going to run a small 'T' off of my hotwater 3/4" copper pipe, but I'm not sure what parts I'll need to reduce this to 1/4" soft copper (the coil that you can get). Do they make ball valve 3/4 to 1/4" compression fittings, or will I sweat the 1/4"? Does this coil type Cu have that flanged end or hump that I'll need (or whatever it is...). Is there some tool that's required?

This pic is the new amusement park ride at Valley Fair where they take anyone up in a biplane, flip ya over, and dump you out at 3k. Seriously, that would be a BAD thing... The pic was from Fort Dodge, IA during a skydiving event called Couch Freaks (don't ask why it's called this...). 500ish crazy people get together for a long Labor Day weekend to get their jump on. Most of my regular jumping (nearly all) is at Skydive Twin Cities in Baldwin, WI (15 miles into western WI, just off I94). An awesome dropzone with fun people and cool planes.

Have an awesome weekend, thanks again.

Richie

(chilling with my cup of Joe)
 
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Old 12-14-07, 12:41 PM
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Figured I'd share my set up, I had to run up since there was no room else where.



And here is my T for the water valve.. 1/2" to 1/4" shut off. Ignore the pressure valve. I had to add that since our water pressure was high, and was driving my partner up the wall with the water hissing though the orifice.
 
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Old 12-14-07, 12:56 PM
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Thumbs up flexible duct?

Nice pics. Thanks.

Ah, I didn't realize you could simply use flexible duct with 2 elbows. I was going to use all elbows and a solid piece, especially after all the 'hoo hah' about flexible ductwork and the clothes dryer vent. Sure, the humidifer is a different kinda situation because fire hazard, CO poisoning is a minimal worry, but still....

I've got several copper ball values, but my question was regarding the 1/4" tubing. I understand what needs to happen, but I've never bought the copper coil type tube, just tube stock in 8' lengths (or simply stolen them from new construction <---kidding, but what's up with this 'new' crime?). I'll just have to walk into HD, Fleet Farm or where ever and just see how it all attaches. Can't be that tough.

Is that a pressure regulator before the on/off? Reason?

Do you recommend that I insulate the hotwater piping?

Thanks.
 
  #33  
Old 12-14-07, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Ah, I didn't realize you could simply use flexible duct with 2 elbows. I was going to use all elbows and a solid piece, especially after all the 'hoo hah' about flexible ductwork and the clothes dryer vent. Sure, the humidifer is a different kinda situation because fire hazard, CO poisoning is a minimal worry, but still....
That is semi ridged pipe, that pipe is far better than the tin foil flex type. I talk my customer out of the tin foil flex since that has more ridge/bump than the semi ridged.

I've got several copper ball values, but my question was regarding the 1/4" tubing. I understand what needs to happen, I'll just have to walk into HD, Fleet Farm or where ever and just see how it all attaches. Can't be that tough.
The 1/4" copper is using compression fittings, so if your ball valve is threaded, then get a brass fitting that you can thread into the ball valve, and have 1/4" male compression fitting.


Is that a pressure regulator before the on/off? Reason?
Yes, our water pressure is high, and with the high pressure, the water is making a high hissing sound in the orifice, and it was driving my partner up the wall, I can't hear it since I am hard of hearing. :-)

Do you recommend that I insulate the hot water piping?
The 1/2" line? You can if you want.. I did it cuz the water heat came with the pipe insulation, and I put it on rest of my hot water line since the garage is just on the otherside of the wall.
 
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Old 12-20-07, 10:22 PM
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Wink 600, delivered... now what?

I got the unit today and had a chance to open the beast up and do some voltage testing. Once I selected the correct terminals (DHUM isn't what I want!) and being patient for the heat to come on I got 25.9v when touching the HUM terminal and the COM 24v terminal. I assume that this reading is just fine... So now I've got power for the unit.

Seeing I was in this area to test stuff I decided to include a pic of the wiring of the t-stat and the circuit board on the furnace. Maybe you'll see something that I can do, maybe not, but I thought I'd put it out there seeing we were talking about it not too long ago.

T-stat pic HERE

You'll see the HUM terminal back a bit in the shadows, more in the center (you already knew this I'm sure). How should I connect to this? Is it one of those push-on terminals?

Furnance circuit board HERE

I'll keep you posted on the progresss.... Thanks.

Richie
 
  #35  
Old 12-20-07, 10:49 PM
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The wire behind the tape is near the board on the furnace?

Looks like we have Red, White, and Blue?

I'm just heading to bed, I"ll report back some time tmrw.. I have to work till 6, then meet a friend for dinner who is in town from Boston.

Also, is your A/C newer too?
 
  #36  
Old 12-21-07, 06:41 AM
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Thumbs up AC is new too.

Also, is your A/C newer too?
Yep, the entire system was replaced 7/06 (furnace, AC coil, condenser).

And what if the taped wires are close to the furnace circuit board? Is this going to involve switching to a diff W, and flipping that DIP switch?

The HUM voltage should be 24v AC correct? Reason I'm asking is that the variable speed motor is DC (from what I understand)...

Happy Holidays!

Thanks
 
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Old 12-21-07, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by skydiverMN View Post
Yep, the entire system was replaced 7/06 (furnace, AC coil, condenser).
I am going to do some digging here, to see if your t-stat can use the a/c to control the humidity.

And what if the taped wires are close to the furnace circuit board? Is this going to involve switching to a diff W, and flipping that DIP switch?
Yep, ok wire Red wire to H at t-stat, White wire to W2 at t-stat.

At furnace, wire White to W2, set dip switch SW1-2 to ON.

H/Red wire up to the humidifier, and other wire from humidifer back to Com on board.

The HUM voltage should be 24v AC correct?
Yes, it's 24volts.

Happy Holidays!
Thanks Richie, same to you and your familiy! I'll be around over the weekend, then heading to Lake City for my family Christmas!
 
  #38  
Old 12-21-07, 04:39 PM
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It just dawned on me that you may want to use the humidistat that came with the humidifier with the outdoor sensor?

I think you will have to, cuz otherwise, if we wire it to the t-stat that you got, it's going to run no matter what is going on..

How ever, we can use the t-stat for your A/C.
 
  #39  
Old 12-21-07, 07:03 PM
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Question not sure what you're talkin' abooot

I was going to put the h-stat controller unit into the return plenum and have the temp sensor hooked up too. This way the system will adjust itself based on the outside temp and my humidity setting. Power'll come from the COM and HUM terminals. That's about it, with no involvement of the t-stat...

What this you mean about the AC controlling humidity?

Cool.

Thanks.
 
  #40  
Old 12-21-07, 09:47 PM
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Hook up the W2 like I said, You'll be happy with the comfort it will provide.

Hook up H at the t-stat, and Dhum on the board.

Set the humidity to about 45%. So in the summer time if we get a really hot humid day, the t-stat/humidstat will tell the board that the house is humid, the blower speed will slow down to help remove the humidity in the home, and when the humidity is below set point the blower then returns to full speed.

With controled humidity in the summer, the house will feel cooler.
 
 

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