Hello,
This is my 1st post here. I hope that some of you can answer my questions. Before I ask here are the information on my house and HVAC system.
I built my home 2 yrs ago (as an owner-builder), it's 3900 sq ft 2 story home with zoned HVAC (two units, one for each floor). It does not have a humidifier or HRV. My house is fairly tight except for the two fireplaces (they have doors) which leaks some air into the house therefore contributing to low humidity (upper 20's % to lower 30's %) during winter months. Here's the info on HVAC:

Lennox brand HVAC:
Furnace: GP61MPV 94% 2-Stg Heat/Variable Speed
Size 100,000 (1st floor)
Size 90,000 (2nd floor)

A/C: HSXA19 14 SEER 2-Stg
Size 4 Ton (1st floor)
Size 3 Ton (2nd floor)

Thermostat: Lennox Signature (model 81M27)

I would like to add a Honeywell TrueSteam humidifier myself. But I'm not sure if it's a bad idea to do it myself. I looked at a website for wiring and installing TrueSteam. It looked simple but I do have several questions.

1. Can Honeywell TrueSteam be used with Lennox Signature stat? I think so since Signature stat does have capability to control humidifier.

2. Since TrueSteam is offered with different stats I'm thinking of going with the most basic version with a manual humidistat to save money and use Signature stat instead. Is that a good idea? The only concern I have is that a largest sized TrueSteam (12 gal/day) only comes with IAQ which cost about $150 more than a manual stat and I have no use for an IAQ stat. I found a 9 gal/day TrueSteam with a mech stat. They also make 6 gal/day version but I think it's better to go with a larger unit (9 gal or 12 gal). I belive a 9 gal verion is big enough since I used one room humidifier (3 gal/day) last winter which did an adequate job raising humidity to upper 30's %. The room humidifier was placed on 1st floor in a room that is open to the 2nd floor.

3. In the electrical diagram for the mech humidistat wiring, it shows two wires for HUM (between TrueSteam and humidistat). Why are ther two wires? This is where I'm most stumped about since my Signature stat has one HUM terminal not two as for TrueSteam.

4. Since my Signature stat is already hooked up is it true that I can hook up the wiring from TrueSteam to Signature stat as if it's for a mech stat?

5. Can anyone explain or shed light on how to correctly wire between TrueSteam, furnace and Signature stat? Looking at both wiring for Signature stat and TrueSteam is a little confusing due to different symbols. Signature shows C (common 24v), TrueSteam shows both 24v (two terminals) and C. What is C on TrueSteam? Is it common 24v? What is AFS (air flow switch) used for? Is this recommended for my system? If so then any idea what brand and model is used for AFS?

Using wiring diagram from TrueSteam, here's what I would wire from TrueSteam to Signature stat and/or furnace:

24v -not used
24v -not used
HUM -to HUM (stat)
HUM -not used
C -(no idea what this is or where this goes if used)
GT -G (stat)
R -R (both stat & furnace)
RT -factory jumped to R (TrueSteam)
GF -G (furnace)
EXT -not used

Is this correct (except for C)? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Below are pics of wiring for both Signature stat and TrueSteam. I hope this helps.

Signature Stat Wiring


TrueSteam Wiring-Mech


TrueSteam Wiring-Elec Stat


TrueSteam Wiring-General Info


Thanks,
Mike

 

Yes, you can use your current stat with this. (See more below)

You could save some money if you want, Honestly, I think you are better off upgrading your t-stat to the IAQ t-stat. You can even add an outdoor sensor to help control the humidity as needed.. Also it can also control the humidity in the summer.. I think $150 is well worth it! The IAQ itself is about $200 by itself.

.

Yeah 9 should be enough for you.

Your t-stat is good for system that does NOT have it's own power source, so the power from the t-stat itself is putting out 24 volts when it calls for humidity.

TrueSTEAM has it's own transformer, and the Mech T-stat or the IAQ is a Switch. (On/Off) HUm wire 1 is hot, Hum 2 wire is return path back to the unit's own relay inside.

You can use the current stat, but a relay must be used to isolate the power from both units. otherwise, will short out and burn one or both transformer. This user had the same stat as you.

The switch is to prove that you have air flow before the steam comes on. You will need to type of switch..

A50 Relay. (Goes on your blower wire. but with Variable speed, it may not work(

Sail Switch, this is mounted inside the return duct.

With the IAQ, you won't need this.

The IAQ is able to "Force Fan On", Add humdity any time fan is on, or only in call of heat.

I'll go over more on the wire when you need me to draw it out.. (No time tonight)

 

Thank you Jay! I'll wait patiently for you to draw out the wiring when you have time. I understand everything except for the part for the AFS. Is the Sail Switch used in place of the AFS?

The link you posted for Signature stat helps to clarify how to add a relay.

Here's my understand of how to wire from TrueSteam to Signature stat and/or furnace:

24v -not used
24v -not used
HUM -to 24v Relay post #1 (switched on/off from H & C on stat)
HUM -to 24v Relay post #3 (switched on/off from H & C on stat)
C -(need help, is this for sail switch or AFS?) Is this 24v common?
GT -G (stat)
R -R (both stat & furnace)
RT -factory jumped to R (TrueSteam)
GF -G (furnace)
EXT -not used

Again thanks for helping out!

 

I finally got the wiring/installation done this past weekend. Everything is working as it should. I'm using a Lennox Signature thermostat. I probably should have bought IAQPro but then I would need to buy two sets since I have separate thermostat, one for each floor (2 stories). I might order two IAQPros later. Outside temp was around 40 deg, humidity in house was around 38% (indoor temp around 72). It raised to 45% within 6 hrs but it dropped to 42% overnight with indoor temp setting around 68. I think there is one or two reasons for this drop.

1. The furnace blower fan (variable speed) does not blow enough air (with heat off) therefore contributing lack of humidity. When humidity is on the air movement through the vent is minimal unless the furnace is on providing heat.

2. The TrueSteam is undersized (bought 9 gal when I probably should have bought 12 gal). I really think the problem is #1 since my new house is air tight. Is there any way that I could "speed up" the fan? The spec on my furnace/blower is shown in 1st post. I sort of wished that I have a regular blower fan. Thanks.

 

Glad to hear back from you and things are up and running.

I don't know where you are out of, but 45% is some what high, 40% is plenty for humidity.

 

Thanks Jay. I'm located in St.Louis. I changed the humidity setting down to 42% so as not to "over work" the humidifier. I'll drop it down lower when it gets in the 20's & 30's. Also, there has not been any condensation forming on the windows so I don't think having humidity in the 40's is too high. Plus I want to minimize shrinkage of the wood floor.

Do you know of a way to speed up the variable speed blower when furnace is not on? I would like to have more air moving around. Sometimes I have my high effeciency fireplace heating up my house and would like to use furnace blower to move air around (like at regular blower speed not at low speed).

 

I am going to have to dig around to see if I can find away to do it for Lennox. I know how for Trane, but not sure about Lennox.

Will post back.

 

I followed all discussions about wiring the humidifier.

I myself purchased a truesteam 6gpd and I am stuck with the wiring , to be exact the AFS. I am using a low voltage manual humidistat.

The fan im my furnace has a relay 3110-330 and two wires go to that from the panel, B and G
from the schema the G has to be redirected from stat to humidifier and then to panel.
R has to be connected to R
My question, is B in this case the C mentioned in the instalation manual?
What happens if I don't wire the C? will humidifier will work even when the fan is off?

So again:
24v -not used
24v -not used
HUM -to humidistat
HUM -to humidistat
C - ? ( should it be B the next wire connected from panel to relay fan?)
GT -G (stat)
R -R (both stat & furnace)
RT -factory jumped to R (TrueSteam)
GF -G fun relay
EXT -not used

Thanks in advance

 

I followed all discussions about wiring the humidifier.

I myself purchased a truesteam 6gpd and I am stuck with the wiring , to be exact the AFS. I am using a low voltage manual humidistat.

The fan im my furnace has a relay 3110-330 and two wires go to that from the panel, B and G
from the schema the G has to be redirected from stat to humidifier and then to panel.
R has to be connected to R
My question, is B in this case the C mentioned in the instalation manual?
What happens if I don't wire the C? will humidifier will work even when the fan is off?

So again:
24v -not used
24v -not used
HUM -to humidistat
HUM -to humidistat
C - ? ( should it be B the next wire connected from panel to relay fan?)
GT -G (stat)
R -R (both stat & furnace)
RT -factory jumped to R (TrueSteam)
GF -G fun relay
EXT -not used

Thanks in advance

 

Jay,
Let me know once you find out what I can do about my variable speed blower when you have a chance!

iredf,
Sorry that I can't be any help as I'm not an expert at wiring!

Have a good Thanksgiving!

 

MikeD94,
Have a good Thanksgiving too

I read your thread here and you say your humidifer is good and running. I wander what did you do with C connection

Thanks

 

I connected C from the furnace to C in TrueSteam. I did not install AFS. C is 24VAC common.

You need to make sure that B is for low voltage (i.e. 24VAC) not 120VAC.

Can you give details (brand and model) of your furnace? I think experts here cannot help you without knowing more details of your system.

 

Thank you MikeD94

Here are the details:
Thermostat HoneWell RTH7000

Thermo-pump add on Thermostat
W AUX (jumper to E)
B C
G G
R (jumper to RC) R
Y Y
O O/B

The thermostat is low voltage so B in the Thermopump add on is 24 volt (I measured it)

Also from Thermo-pump add on I have B and G that goes to fan relay coleman 3110-330. the relay has 6 contactors, 2 of them (B and G) are 24 volts while 2 others are 120 Volt and when there is charge in BG there is not voltage in 120 volt contactors.

It looks like B in my case is the common (C) in the diagram honeywell explains.

I have a heat pump YORK model no EIEBO24A06A R-22
I have a gas furnace OLSEN manifacturer model BMS 2 105.


So would it be safe to connect B to C in the humidifier?
I have a C in the thermo-pump add-on but it goes to the coil (there are two actually S and C that goes to coil , heat-pump part set-up in the returning main duck)

Also MikeD94, I wanted to ask if you did set up DIP 5 in ON position right?

Have a nice thanksgiving Beer 4U2

 

You're welcome. Since I'm not using an AFS the DIP is on 4.

Hopefully others can answer your question about connecting B.

Hope you have a great Thanksgiving! I'm stuffed!

 

Yes, the B is Common for York and Trane.

 

Much appreciated Jay11J and MikeD94!

I hope you both had a great thanksgiving.

My last question on the subject (I hope):
Since I am using a fan relay and not a AFS, should I turn DIP5 on or DIP4? based on the diagram below it says ensure DIP5 is ON.

Cheers

 

SO my question really here is: is relay an AFS or not

 

Relay? Meaning the A50 relay? If so, yes, it's an air proven switch.

 

Thank you Jay11J,

I have a coleman 3110-330 relay, 6 contacts, 2 for 24 volts, 2 for 120 and two others don't know

I am not sure what A50 does

Here is a coleman 3110-330 relay
Coleman Electric Furnace Parts


Cheers

 

That is the relay to turn on the blower, it has nothing to do with the humidifier.

So, to your earlier question, No it's not the relay that Honeywell is looking for.

 

Thanks Jay11J

I have install it and it is working fine, also it starts and stops the fan indipendently from the thermostat

Your help was decisive. I am glad I found this forum

Cheers

 

Glad to help and thanks for the update.

 

Jay,
Have you had a chance to see what I could do to speed up the variable blower fan? I looked up the manual and found that I could change the blower speed but that would affect speed across the board (fan only, stage 1 and stage 2) when I only want to affect fan only speed.

Per the manual the fan only speed is 38% of stage 2. Is there a way to change that percentage?

Am I correct in my thinking that the blower speed can be too low for a humidifier to work properly?

Thanks,
-M

 

Hi Mike,

I did not come across anything, and I did send a note to some one else to see if they have an answer for us.

 

May be is not the right place to write but after installing the trueSteam humidifier with the manual humidistat in the main furnace air intake, the other electronic humidity measure gadget is measuring about 5-10 % more humidity then before The honeywell mechanical humidistat measures 55% when the electronic one measures 35% (in the same place, furnace intake air channel)

Does anybody knows any good electronic/mechanical humidifier so I could calibrate the manual one or have more accurate measures ?

Thanks in advance