Honeywell HE360A and sail switch wiring...

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Old 12-10-07, 08:30 AM
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Honeywell HE360A and sail switch wiring...

Good morning all!

I bought a HE360A with the accessory kit (sail switch, tubing, etc...) and hooked it up last night. I banged my head against the wall trying to figure out how the system is supposed to opperate. I assumed the sail switch is used to allow the unit only to kick on when there is air flow via the furnace blower? The problem is that the unit will operate without the furnace blower on.

The sail switch is not obstructed and moves freely.

Wiring (from memory):
Yellow wire on humidifier to black on humidistat. Black wire from humidistat to "normally open" on sail switch. White wire from 'commom' on sail switch to remaining yellow wire on humidifier.

Am I doing something wrong? Is my logic flawed thinking the unit should not run unless the sail switch has made the connection?

I have a Goodman GMS8(?) series furnace. Can I make the connection there rather than using the sail switch? Do I need a current sensing relay?

A lot of questions...I know...so thanks, in advance, for any help you might offer!

Regards,
Paul
 
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Old 12-10-07, 01:58 PM
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Link to furnace wiring...

Here's a link to my furnace wiring. You can see the wiring diagram on page 29.

http://www.dnmech.com/lit/IO-242.pdf

Furnace model GMS80904BNA.

Thanks,
Paul
 

Last edited by pbro; 12-10-07 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 12-10-07, 06:04 PM
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Problem solved...

I couldn't get the sail switch to operate properly but found the connections to the furnace, so now whenever the furnace pressure switch closes it completes the circuit and the humidifier fires right up.

So:
Humidifier yellow wire (1) to humidistat (in 1 out 2) to "C" on furnace circuit panel to "C" of furnace pressure switch to humidifier yellow wire (2) .



Take care all...
 
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Old 12-10-07, 06:04 PM
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sounds like you got it wired right...



What happens if you put both yellow wires together?

Yes, we can wire it to the furnace with out the sail switch.
 
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Old 12-10-07, 06:07 PM
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Jay,
Thanks for the reply. We must have been posting at the same time.

I got it done w/o the sail switch. I suspect the sail switch wasn't operating correctly for some reason.

Anyway...all the better that I looked a little closer and found the furnace connection points.

Thanks again for the reply.
Paul
 
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Old 12-10-07, 06:09 PM
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Ok..

DO NOT put the yellow wire to the furnace's board!

let me know if it works when you touch yellow wires. and then we can re wire it to work with out the sail switch.

I have to eat supper now, so i will be back later.
 
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Old 12-10-07, 06:30 PM
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Jay,
I've disconnected everything and will 'hold'.

The humidifier will work when touching the yellows together.

I wired the circuit as shown in the link above (circuit diagram). Yellow from humidifier to black (1) on humidistat. Black (2) on humidistat to "COMMON" at furnace (same place thermostat is wired?). "COMMON" on pressure switch to remaining yellow on humidifier.

I look forward to your reply.

Enjoy your supper!

Paul
 
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Old 12-10-07, 07:44 PM
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Ok, You will want to put an outlet on the side of the furnace to plug the humidifier to.

Here's the drawing.
 
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Old 12-10-07, 07:54 PM
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Jay,
What problem does wiring the circuit per the mfg. schematics cause?

I'm assuming by your drawing that the outlet will be powered on when the furnace/blower fires?

Looking at the schematic I see the HUM-H and HUM-N, but what will I actually be looking for in the furnace?

Thanks,
Paul
 
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Old 12-10-07, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pbro View Post
Jay,
What problem does wiring the circuit per the mfg. schematics cause?
What mfg. sechematic are you refering to?
I'm assuming by your drawing that the outlet will be powered on when the furnace/blower fires?
Yes, powered when there call for heat, not fan.

Looking at the schematic I see the HUM-H and HUM-N, but what will I actually be looking for in the furnace?
Just look for the male spade on the board, and with those letter printed on it.
 
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Old 12-10-07, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
What mfg. sechematic are you refering to?
http://www.dnmech.com/lit/IO-242.pdf

Page 29.

Thanks! I'll pick this up tomorrow.
 
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Old 12-10-07, 09:16 PM
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Oh ok, I didn't see the low voltage side... Your humidifier already has power coming out of the yellow wires. so you do not wire it to the pressure switch (has power as well, will short out).

so, I am taking the HUM-H and HUM-N (120 volts.) to power the unit on.
 
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Old 12-11-07, 06:36 AM
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Thank you...

Jay,
Thanks. I'll get the stuff I need and wire it up (hopefully) tonight. I'll post status back.
Thanks again,
Paul
 
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Old 12-11-07, 11:51 AM
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Allright, we'll be waiting for hear back from you.
 
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Old 12-11-07, 03:16 PM
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Jay,
I found the HUM-H, but not the HUM-N. There are open tabs on the generic "LINE NEUTRAL" portion of the board. Is that where I make my other connection?
Thanks,
Paul
 
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Old 12-11-07, 08:23 PM
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Yep, anywhere on Neutral that you have room.
 
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Old 12-12-07, 07:43 PM
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Jay,
All hooked up and running fine!
A big THANK YOU for all your help!
Paul
 
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Old 12-12-07, 08:04 PM
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Paul,

Glad to hear you are up and running, and working.

Thanks for the update, and come on back if you have any other questions.

You and your family have a safe and Happy Holiday!
 
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Old 12-12-07, 08:08 PM
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Jay,
Will do!
Happy Holidays and a Happy and Prosperous New Year to you and yours!
Paul
 
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Old 12-16-07, 10:29 AM
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I bought the same humidifier and was hoping to install it without the sail switch. It was my understanding that somewhere on the furnace circuit board the would be a N.O. circuit that would close when the heat comes on. I wanted to use the standard outlet that is already there for my condensate pump and not have to wire one off of the furnace itself. Do furnaces have such a N.O. circuit and what should I look for on the wiring diagram?

thanks.
Todd
 
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Old 12-16-07, 11:49 AM
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What is the make and model on your furnace?

Look for EAC (Electronic Air Cleaner), or HUM on the 120v side of the wire diagram.
 
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Old 12-16-07, 11:54 AM
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Jay,

Thanks for your quick reply. I may be a little confused. Are those terminals on the 120V side powered or just on/off relays. I guess I can draw the power from there if I have to but like I said, I already have a very nearby outlet for my condensate pump. I was just hoping for a relay to substitute for the sail switch. My furnace is a (less than 2 yr old) Ruud. I'll have to get the model when I get home (at the office now doing paperwork).

Todd
 
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Old 12-16-07, 12:28 PM
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Rheem/Rudd are pretty tight about their info online, so I am not able to pull their diagram up. You will have to look closer. and if you can, take a photo of the wire diagram that is on the back side of the blower door.

If it turns out your board has the HUM 120v or EAC, we can run a wire from the board to the outlet. Cut the bridge between the two, and make each socket it's own source.
 
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Old 12-16-07, 05:30 PM
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Jay,

I like that solution! I have the manual and it's a Ruud Achiever 90 Plus upflow. It has the terminal for HUM and available neutral. The outlet is already attached to the furnace and I'm upset at myself that I didn't think of splitting it. This is my project for this Friday. I'll let you know how it goes and many thanks for your help!

Todd
 
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Old 12-16-07, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by pilotnh View Post
It has the terminal for HUM and available neutral.
Todd,

Just make sure the HUM is 120volts.

The neutral side, you don't have to cut that bridge, just have one wire up to it from the board for the power.
 
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Old 12-22-07, 08:16 AM
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One more quick question, Jay: The neutral side? White wire? That would mean the black wire goes from HUM to the black side of the outlet which is the only side the bridge is cut? Or do I have the black and white backwards?

thanks.

Todd
 
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Old 12-22-07, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pilotnh View Post
One more quick question, Jay: The neutral side? White wire?
Yes, white wire is your Neutral side. No need to cut the bridge on that side.

That would mean the black wire goes from HUM to the black side of the outlet which is the only side the bridge is cut?
Correct.
 
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Old 12-28-07, 08:58 AM
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Jay,

You're awesome and I thank you for all the help! Over the last week, I installed an HE260A on the furnace in my attic and an HE360A on my furnace in my basement.

I used the 260A in the attic because of the fact that the air conditioner coil placement (and its plumbing) only allowed me to install the unit on the return. I chose not to use the standard 6" duct they give you in the install kit and purchased insulated 6" flexible duct to make it more energy efficient. I did not use the sail switch and went right to the circuit board for 110 to power the transformer. I also did not use the vinyl supply tubing but instead used flexible copper. Unfortunately it was a 25 foot run to get cold water from the master bath one floor below. Fortunately there was already a drain available from the airconditioner condensate. The only upgrade which I didn't do (yet) it substitue a sweated T connection for the saddle valve on the water supply.

The 360A installation in the basement was done in about half the time. Once again, I substituted copper for vinyl. I used your suggestion of powering half of an outlet from the HUM on the circuit board.

Both installations came out looking professionally done and the house is SO much more comfortable. The master bedroom went from 18% RH to somewhere between 32 and 38% in just 3 days. No more shocks turning lights on and off.

Thanks again.

Todd
 
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Old 12-28-07, 10:26 AM
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Glad to hear that it worked out for you Todd.

Only thing I am scared of it you got the unit up in the attic! I would be watching that very very close when temps falls below freezing.. You are at risk of freezing the water lines, and drain.
 
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Old 12-28-07, 09:41 PM
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Your point is well taken. With reasonable winter temps, the water line and drain are close enough to the furnace to keep them from freezing. But if the outdoor temps drop to single digits or below it may be an issue. I will watch it closely and appreciate you bringing it to my attention.

Todd
 
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Old 02-01-10, 09:20 PM
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Need to hook up HE360A to Keeprite NTG5050FFA1

Hello,

I am trying to hookup HE360A humidifier to Keeprite NTG5050FFA1 furnace board without sail swith due to space constraints.
My NOMA brand thermostat has connection for humidifier. Will that be enough to by pass wiring to Sail Switch?

Please help.

Thanks

Luka
 
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Old 02-01-10, 09:31 PM
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you hook up the two yellow wire to H - H at the t-stat.

Then you do the outlet like is drawn in an earlier post.

I am not able to get a manual on your furnace, am guessing your HUM is 120 volts?
 
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Old 02-02-10, 06:12 AM
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Thanks for replay Jay.

HUM is 120v. I do see a Hum terminal on 120v side of the board. I see what you mean. By wiring 120v HUM terminal to Humidifier, I would be controlling HUM power with furnace board. There is a caution on the diagram saying HUM+EAC combined cannot be more than 0.8A. EAC terminal is free though.

I will take a picture of the board and post it later. I got go earn some bread now.
 
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Old 02-02-10, 08:31 PM
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Here are the picture. Hope they are clear. thanx



http://s938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/luke2_bucket/
 

Last edited by luke2; 02-02-10 at 08:32 PM. Reason: images didn't show
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Old 02-02-10, 08:39 PM
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Your HUM is 120 volts. So add an outlet to this..

Make sure you cut the bridge on the outlet between the outlet/switch if you are doing are doing the combo.

Your amp rating are fine with this since you are just using the HUM.

you'll have to run a new set of 18-2 t-stat wire up to the t-stat's H hook up from the Humidifier's two yellow wire
 
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Old 02-02-10, 09:36 PM
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I am not an expert in this area. Could you elaborate on "Make sure you cut the bridge on the outlet between the outlet/switch if you are doing are doing the combo"?

Also, what did you mean by combo? Is it HUM + EAC or just what I am looking into doing which is adding HUM to furnace board?

thanks
 
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Old 02-03-10, 05:51 AM
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The combo is the outlet and switch in one, like mine below.



When you get the switch, you'll see it in the manual that comes with it.

The bridge breaks the "hot" side of it so you won't short out between HUM's power and line power.
 
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Old 02-08-10, 04:09 PM
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Just so I'm clear, you're not actually using the switch half, just using that device as a convenient way to make a single outlet?

I have a White-Rodgers 50A55-843 control module, which has a 120V humidifier outlet (too bad it doesn't just have a 24V output). Hooking up an AirKing Wait5000.
 
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Old 02-08-10, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by amason View Post
Just so I'm clear, you're not actually using the switch half, just using that device as a convenient way to make a single outlet?
Correct, the HUM powers up when the furnace starts up.
 
 

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