Honeywell HE260 vs General Air 1042

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Old 12-17-07, 01:39 PM
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Honeywell HE260 vs General Air 1042

Anyone recommend one over the other? Or are they pretty much the same quality and performance?

Is it true the solenoid valve is unreliable on the Honewell units?

Cheers
 
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Old 12-17-07, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by xroxer View Post
Anyone recommend one over the other? Or are they pretty much the same quality and performance?
They are the same, just a diffirent cover/color. The pads inside of them are the same.

Is it true the solenoid valve is unreliable on the Honeywell units?
I haven't heard any issues with them, Matter of fact I have one on my furnace, and no issues.
 
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Old 12-18-07, 02:45 PM
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Jay,

I've decided to stick with the HE260 and would like to not use the sail switch if possible. Ideally I would like the humidifier to operate when the blower operates. My furnace is a Trane XR90 and the transformer that came with my humidifier is a plug in type 120v/24v. Is it possible to wire the HE260 to the XR90 such that the activation of the blower also activates the humidifier?

Cheers and Thanks
 
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Old 12-18-07, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by xroxer View Post
the transformer that came with my humidifier is a plug in type 120v/24v.
With the humidifier?? I thought the plug in type came with the kit...
Is it possible to wire the HE260 to the XR90 such that the activation of the blower also activates the humidifier?
We can.... The "hardwire" style would be best..
 
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Old 12-18-07, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
With the humidifier?? I thought the plug in type came with the kit...

We can.... The "hardwire" style would be best..
I bought the humidifier at Home Depot and the installation kit is included in the box.

I already mounted the humidifier unit on the return and the bypass on the supply.

So what hardware do I need for hardwiring to furnace? Your help is greatly appreciated.......
 
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Old 12-18-07, 08:03 PM
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In the humidifier box itself, you should of gotten a transformer that can be hard wired...
 
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Old 12-18-07, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
In the humidifier box itself, you should of gotten a transformer that can be hard wired...
Nope, but I don't mind going to buy one as they are fairly cheap (10$ or so..)
 
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Old 12-18-07, 08:22 PM
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Another question, it seems like it is possible to reverse the sidewalls of the humidifier body such that the bypass port pionts left instead of right?

This would make installing the bypass ducting a little easier for me.

Cheers
 
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Old 12-18-07, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by xroxer View Post
Another question, it seems like it is possible to reverse the sidewalls of the humidifier body such that the bypass port pionts left instead of right?
Yes, there is a screw in back with the pad out, that you can remove, and switch sides.

Go head and buy a hard wired one. You can wire this in the power junction box that is inside on the left side of the furnace, there is a small knock out hole that you can mount the humidifier on.

Honeywell must of stopped putting the transformer in the box then?? (i'll have to check the ones we got at the store)
 
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Old 12-18-07, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Yes, there is a screw in back with the pad out, that you can remove, and switch sides.

Go head and buy a hard wired one. You can wire this in the power junction box that is inside on the left side of the furnace, there is a small knock out hole that you can mount the humidifier on.

Honeywell must of stopped putting the transformer in the box then?? (i'll have to check the ones we got at the store)
Just finished mounting the humidifier on the return vent and it was a breeze. Thank you for your advice on this. I have about 24 inches from the top of the humidifier to the first upstream elbow (actually T). So if I mount the humidistat 8 inches above the humidifier that leaves only 12 inches (as the humidistat is 4" as well) from the humidistat to the upstream T. Would it be better to put the humidistat further upstream pas the T?

I'll purchase the transformer tomorrow.

Cheers
 
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Old 12-18-07, 09:38 PM
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You put the bypass duct on the return as well??

If you did, the bypass has to be on the supply. It not going ot work on the same side of the air flow.
 
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Old 12-18-07, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
You put the bypass duct on the return as well??

If you did, the bypass has to be on the supply. It not going ot work on the same side of the air flow.
Haven't even cut the hole for the bypass duct yet . I'm having trouble finding room on the supply side due to the A coils and short plennum. The only spot is near the top of the supply plennum but it would mean the duct would have to go around the NG supply to the furnace.

Also I took your advice and will eventually switch my saddle valves to T-line. But for now I will install the saddle valve for the short term
 
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Old 12-18-07, 09:46 PM
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Can you take a photo of your set up? I'd like to see what you got going there.
 
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Old 12-18-07, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Can you take a photo of your set up? I'd like to see what you got going there.
I am a complete newbie so I may have screwed up but here is what I'm looking at

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0621.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0622.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0623.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0625.jpg
 
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Old 12-18-07, 10:25 PM
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You are good to go!

I noticed one thing.



On your return duct up further, there is an elbow coming out, and looks like it's tied to nothing??

Also I notice your intake pipe on the furnace is not going outside.
 
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Old 12-18-07, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
You are good to go!

I noticed one thing.

On your return duct up further, there is an elbow coming out, and looks like it's tied to nothing??

Also I notice your intake pipe on the furnace is not going outside.
There are supply vents to the basement so I assume they put that there as a return vent. I closed it and also closed the all the supply vents in the basement as well.

As for the intake, is that not normal? (sorry if stupid question). This is a builder home and that is how they installed it. If it is wrong then I can get them to fix it.

Cheers
 
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Old 12-19-07, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by xroxer View Post
closed the all the supply vents in the basement as well.
Keep some open down there for air exchange, and also the warmth will help your living floor between the basement and living space upstairs.

As for th
e intake, is that not normal? (sorry if stupid question). This is a builder home and that is how they installed it. If it is wrong then I can get them to fix it.
Well, It's not normal, just not done often. Right now you are pulling air right out of your basement, air that you already have paid to heat. Also pulling in fumes that may be in the air, and what not in the air and can shorten the life of the heat exchanger.

Do you have a fresh air pipe in the basement near the water heater or furnace?
 
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Old 12-19-07, 06:59 PM
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Thanks Jay, my builder is coming over to look at the furnace intake to see if it is installed properly (or at least to local code).

Back to the humidifier install:

1 - is it ok to install the humidistat 9" upstream from the humidifier body and 12" downstream from an elbow? Otherwise I have to install way upstream making wiring a hassle.

2 - The only 120/24 volt hardwire transformer I could by at HD was the following (made for Wait humidifier).


Will this work? So I connect the 120V (line) side to the juction box? (1 wire to EAC and the other to White) and then wire the humidistat and humidifier?

3 - Is there warranty concerns when adding wiring to the furnace junction box?
 
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Old 12-19-07, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xroxer View Post
Thanks Jay, my builder is coming over to look at the furnace intake to see if it is installed properly (or at least to local code).
I would bet my money on he going to say, "Oh, it's OK, nothing wrong with it." Like I said, there are many out there that is done this way to be cheap!



1 - is it ok to install the humidistat 9" upstream from the humidifier body and 12" downstream from an elbow? Otherwise I have to install way upstream making wiring a hassle.
What elbow are you talking about?

2 - The only 120/24 volt hardwire transformer I could by at HD was the following (made for Wait humidifier).
That one is fine. Nice thing you got the nut to spins in place on the hole knock out.(See mine below)

So I connect the 120V (line) side to the juction box? (1 wire to EAC and the other to White) and then wire the humidistat and humidifier?
Yep. EAC will power any time the blower runs. HUM will only run on call of heat.

3 - Is there warranty concerns when adding wiring to the furnace junction box?
Nope, that's why that box is there with the knock out, and wires behind it for HUM/EAC.
 
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Old 12-19-07, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
What elbow are you talking about?
There is about 25inches of space from the top of the humidifier to the T-branch (term?) in the return line (see pic). So to maintain the minimum 8" clearance the humidistat would be mounted about 9" from the humidifier body and 12" from the T-branch.

 
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Old 12-19-07, 09:00 PM
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Perfect spot for it. You can mount it above it or on the back side for easy setting of dial.

FYI, you can hide/run the wire inside the duct work to give you the clean run.
 
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Old 12-19-07, 09:27 PM
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Thanks Jay, I could not have done this without your help. This is the do-it-with-Jay forum
 
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Old 12-19-07, 10:07 PM
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Glad to help you out!
 
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Old 12-30-07, 10:14 PM
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sweet - just found this thread - i've got a trane xr90 as well, and picked up a honeywell he260A today (local hvac guy wanted $500+ to put in a generalaire1042). my house is about 3,400 sq ft, in oakville, ontario. just moved into the new house this month, and so far humidity is still 30% - 32%, but i'm pretty sure i'll need a humidifier to keep it over 35% as the winter gets colder.

this thread has already answered most of my questions, but i still have a few:

1 - i've got limited space on the warm air supply (the return duct goes down & under the furnace so the furnace is already mounted higher than normal)- i definitely can't mount the humidifer on it, but can squeeze the bypass duct in there. any issues with that set up? (any risk of blowing water droplets into the return ducting?).

2 - can the bypass duct be installed between the blower and the a/c coil? i might be able to get it above (after) the a/c coil, but it's pretty tight for space up there.

3 - for the return, should i use the cheap flex duct that came with the kit, or should i use some aluminum flex duct or should i do it the hard way with galvanized ducting and elbows?

4 (a) - i'd love to get a nice thermostat with humidity control, and hook the humidifier up to that rather than the cheap humidistat in the box - i can order a robertshaw9801i online pretty cheap, but is there anything you'd recommend? (or should i just put in a cool looking visionpro and leave the humidistat on the duct, as i only have single stage heat/cool?)

4(b) - is there a thermostat i can program to run the furnace fan slower when i need dehumidification more than cooling (or is this not possible with my furnace?), and can i set it to run the fan about 30% of the time when heat/cool is not called for in order to supply additional circulation (or additional humidity if needed), as i don't have a dc fan motor?

5 - the furnace filter size for my return ducting is 18x25. the builder had put in a 16x25 filter and there was a 2" gap. my local hd guy hasn't heard of 18x25. do 18x25 filters actually exist, or did the builder screw up? what can i do for this?

6 - how much better is it to use hot water than cold?

7 - if i use hot water, should i be cutting the 25' plastic hose down to the minimum required in order to maintain heat?

8- any chance a compression fit tee and proper ball valve will flow too much water compared to the saddle valve included in the kit? (i just replaced the saddle valve for the fridge water line today with a proper ball valve on a compression fitting tee - only hard part was getting the tee body in-line when the cut out was pretty close to another joint in the pipe - not so flexible at that point).

9 - does the he260A put out enough humidity for a house of this size or should i be looking at something else? (i already called around and can't find a truesteam unit anywhere)

thanks in advance...
 
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Old 12-31-07, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by oakville View Post
so far humidity is still 30% - 32%, but i'm pretty sure i'll need a humidifier to keep it over 35% as the winter gets colder.
Make sure you don't get it too high on a very cold day/night.Follow what's on the chart. or as long the windows are dripping wet.

1 - i've got limited space on the warm air supply (the return duct goes down & under the furnace so the furnace is already mounted higher than normal)- i definitely can't mount the humidifer on it, but can squeeze the bypass duct in there. any issues with that set up? (any risk of blowing water droplets into the return ducting?).
If you got room on the supply duct to mount the unit, and run the bypass down to the return you will be fine. If you can post a photo to make sure we're on the same age, that'll be great.



2 - can the bypass duct be installed between the blower and the a/c coil? i might be able to get it above (after) the a/c coil, but it's pretty tight for space up there.
I'm taking it that the A/C coil is up higher above the furnace itself? (Will wait for pic if you can)

3 - for the return, should i use the cheap flex duct that came with the kit, or should i use some aluminum flex duct or should i do it the hard way with galvanized ducting and elbows?
If space is limited, I would the semi ridgied pipe, other wise use the all metal if you can.

4 (a) - i'd love to get a nice thermostat with humidity control, and hook the humidifier up to that rather than the cheap humidistat in the box - i can order a robertshaw9801i online pretty cheap, but is there anything you'd recommend? (or should i just put in a cool looking visionpro and leave the humidistat on the duct, as i only have single stage heat/cool?)
You could do the that t=stat if you want, If I recall, the robertshaw is kinda hard to set up to program. I'd go for the Honeywell VisionPro TH8110.

4(b) - is there a thermostat i can program to run the furnace fan slower when i need dehumidification more than cooling (or is this not possible with my furnace?), and can i set it to run the fan about 30% of the time when heat/cool is not called for in order to supply additional circulation (or additional humidity if needed), as i don't have a dc fan motor?
Afraid you can't do it with your furnace, it's not set to do this. Then Honeywell VP is able to allow you to cycle the fan on every now and then to move the air around.

5 - the furnace filter size for my return ducting is 18x25. the builder had put in a 16x25 filter and there was a 2" gap. my local hd guy hasn't heard of 18x25. do 18x25 filters actually exist, or did the builder screw up? what can i do for this?

6 - how much better is it to use hot water than cold?

7 - if i use hot water, should i be cutting the 25' plastic hose down to the minimum required in order to maintain heat?

8- any chance a compression fit tee and proper ball valve will flow too much water compared to the saddle valve included in the kit? (i just replaced the saddle valve for the fridge water line today with a proper ball valve on a compression fitting tee - only hard part was getting the tee body in-line when the cut out was pretty close to another joint in the pipe - not so flexible at that point).

9 - does the he260A put out enough humidity for a house of this size or should i be looking at something else? (i already called around and can't find a truesteam unit anywhere)

thanks in advance...[/QUOTE]
 
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Old 01-14-08, 10:23 PM
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I picked up a honeywell RTH8500 at the local hardware store - was hoping it had the same functionality as the VisionPro TH8110, then i found the following differences:


Can't use remote sensors (indoor or outdoor)
Not able to use 24vAC for power (all power from the AAA's)
Not able to work without batteries
No continuous backlight
No auto-changeover
No circulation mode on the fan/blower
Fan mode isn't programmable
Can't handle multi-stage HP installs
No cycle/anticipator adjustment for cooling, very limited adjustment for heating
Requires an external fossil fuel kit when used with a heat pump
Not able to intelligently decide when to use HP & when to use aux/emergency heat b/c it lacks an outdoor temp sensor
No humidity control
No temperature limits
Won't handle 3 heat/2 cooling stage systems
Only has service indicator for filter change, none for UV lamp / humidifier pad / etc.
Can't adjust minimum time between cycles
Can't set upper/lower temp limits for heating & cooling
Can't adjust fan on after heating/cooling
Can't lock out keypad
Can't adjust adaptive recovery compensation


Now I know that the RTH does have autochangeover, so i'm hoping there are other inacurracies, as I do want the circulation mode, and i'd like the continuous backlight. Does anyone know for sure? Also, can i pop it off the wall to program it and the pop it back on when i'm done?
 
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Old 01-15-08, 06:35 AM
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Yes, on the TH8110, you can program the fan mode, and also pop it off the wall to program it with the batteries in. And if the C wire is hooked up the back screen light works, and the battery will last longer.
 
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Old 02-12-08, 02:37 PM
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got the TH8110 - that is one sweet thermostat. unfortunately my builder used only a 4 conductor thermostat control cable, so no wire free to hook up to the 18v common. if i want to run a new wire, what gauge should i use?
 
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Old 02-12-08, 03:22 PM
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You will need an 18 gauge t-stat wire. I would fish up 8 wires that way it's ready for something down the road if upgraded to say two stage furnace w/ two stage A/C or heat pump.
 
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Old 02-12-08, 08:27 PM
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anyone know a good place to pick up a small reel of this stuff in the mississauga area?
 
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Old 02-12-08, 08:34 PM
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You can get this at any hardware store, or Home Depot.

How many feet are you looking at fishing?
 
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Old 02-12-08, 08:40 PM
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should be about 35 to 45 feet.
 
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Old 02-21-08, 10:54 AM
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i've got plenty of 22 awg cat5 network cable. how many of the 22awg conductors do i need to splice together to carry enough current to run the common to power the backlight?
 
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Old 02-21-08, 11:48 AM
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I don't think you can do that.. I don't recall where I've read about it, but the CAT5 should not be used.. You need to use 18 gauge wire.
 
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Old 02-29-08, 10:16 AM
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ok, hooked it up with a new run of 5 conductor 18g wire - works and looks great.

another question: i can get either a truesteam humidifier or the honeywell 260.
is the truesteam any better? can i install the truesteam on my own?
i don't see any free connectors on the furnace's main board - just the screws where i wired in the thermostat. i don't want to use a sail switch, how can i wire it up to my trane xr90?
there is a transformer there already - should i tap into that somehow?
 
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Old 02-29-08, 12:29 PM
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Inside on the left side there is an electrical junction box where you can wire up a transformer for the humidifier.. There is two wires, one for HUM and other for EAC.

Here is a shot of mine.


The TrueSTEAM is coming out, but on a lag till end of March, I would go for it if your water rates are very high. My area, water rates is pretty cheap, and cost us about $30 a heatingn season to run my flow though.
 
 

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