Bypass Humidifier - How Long For Humidity Change?
#1
12-19-07, 08:29 PM
Bypass Humidifier - How Long For Humidity Change?
I installed an HE260A about 4 weeks ago. The humidity in the house has maybe increased about 5 percent since I installed it. Prior to the humidifier installation, humidity was around 25% and now after a month its around 30%.
Here's the setup:
Set up as bypass with waterline attached to hot water line. Good airflow from 6" bypass tubing. Plenty enough to blow through the wire mesh filter. Filter is set up with black strip on top.
Any other pertinent points let me know.
The only things I can think are:
The house is 3900 square feet and since this unit is rated at 4000 square feet, its pushing the unit to its limit.
I live in Colorado and the natural humidity is very dry. This house is 5 years old without any prior method of humidification. So I was thinking that the wood floors, walls and furniture were so dry that they were soaking up any humidity that the HE260A was pumping out.
I keep the house typically around 70 degrees, but the house is well insulated so I would guess the furnace runs maybe 20 minutes per hour (if that). I know that the humidifier only works when the furnace is actually running, but unless I turn the thermostat up to 80, I doubt it will run for much longer than that.
Anyone have any idea how long I should actually wait. And, what would be a solution to actually humidify this house.
Thanks for any help!
Here's the setup:
Set up as bypass with waterline attached to hot water line. Good airflow from 6" bypass tubing. Plenty enough to blow through the wire mesh filter. Filter is set up with black strip on top.
Any other pertinent points let me know.
The only things I can think are:
The house is 3900 square feet and since this unit is rated at 4000 square feet, its pushing the unit to its limit.
I live in Colorado and the natural humidity is very dry. This house is 5 years old without any prior method of humidification. So I was thinking that the wood floors, walls and furniture were so dry that they were soaking up any humidity that the HE260A was pumping out.
I keep the house typically around 70 degrees, but the house is well insulated so I would guess the furnace runs maybe 20 minutes per hour (if that). I know that the humidifier only works when the furnace is actually running, but unless I turn the thermostat up to 80, I doubt it will run for much longer than that.
Anyone have any idea how long I should actually wait. And, what would be a solution to actually humidify this house.
Thanks for any help!
Last edited by nimbus; 12-19-07 at 08:51 PM.
#2
12-20-07, 05:10 AM
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What is your outdoor temps been at about?
Do you have any fresh air tied into your returns?
Do you have an air exchanger (ERV)?
Is the house tight? Wood burning fireplaces?
Lot of cans light w/ attic above it?
Do you have any fresh air tied into your returns?
Do you have an air exchanger (ERV)?
Is the house tight? Wood burning fireplaces?
Lot of cans light w/ attic above it?
#3
12-20-07, 05:51 AM
Hi Jay -
Over the last month the outside high temps have ranged from the 30s to 40s.
In the utility room where the furnace is located, I have two fresh air ducts that are each 6" in diameter. They're set up in a high/low input configuration.
No air exchanger that I know of. I haven't heard of those residentially out here in Colorado.
The house is tight. For example, the utilities in this house are only slightly higher than they were in our previous home (which was half the square feet). Only one gas fireplace - no wood-burning.
If your last question is asking about can lights that are opening up holes to the attic, there are three that do that. I believe the attic is well insulated and the can lights are sealed. No drafts evident.
Thanks for the help Jay.
Over the last month the outside high temps have ranged from the 30s to 40s.
In the utility room where the furnace is located, I have two fresh air ducts that are each 6" in diameter. They're set up in a high/low input configuration.
No air exchanger that I know of. I haven't heard of those residentially out here in Colorado.
The house is tight. For example, the utilities in this house are only slightly higher than they were in our previous home (which was half the square feet). Only one gas fireplace - no wood-burning.
If your last question is asking about can lights that are opening up holes to the attic, there are three that do that. I believe the attic is well insulated and the can lights are sealed. No drafts evident.
Thanks for the help Jay.
#4
12-20-07, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by nimbus
Over the last month the outside high temps have ranged from the 30s to 40s.
No air exchanger that I know of. I haven't heard of those residentially out here in Colorado.
You did state something about hard wood floors, you have a lot of floor area with this?
I am thinking your system is pushed the the max, maybe need to upgrade to a steam style. Honeywell is coming out with a new model that works very well, called TrueSTEAM.
#5
12-20-07, 07:21 AM
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Nimbus,
IMO, something you want to keep in mind is that the optimum relative indoor humidity depends on the outside temperature. If indoor humidity is too high in cold weather you can get condensation, most visible on surfaces such as inside of windows, but often within walls, ceilings and floor joists above crawl spaces. During home inspections in my climate (Chicago) I frequently see damage and/or mold problems - sometimes quite significant - caused by excessive indoor humidity, often because of too high a setting at the humidistat. Here’s a recent example:
http://paragoninspects.com/images/hi...d/shelving.jpg
Humidifier manufacturers provided charts of recommend humidity based on exterior temperature, for example here’s Honeywell’s, see pp 3:
http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...s%20Manual.pdf
A relative humidity setting of 40% or higher is recommend only when exterior temperatures are 20F or higher – if you live in a cold climate and are humidifying to such levels you could be doing real harm to your house.
IMO, something you want to keep in mind is that the optimum relative indoor humidity depends on the outside temperature. If indoor humidity is too high in cold weather you can get condensation, most visible on surfaces such as inside of windows, but often within walls, ceilings and floor joists above crawl spaces. During home inspections in my climate (Chicago) I frequently see damage and/or mold problems - sometimes quite significant - caused by excessive indoor humidity, often because of too high a setting at the humidistat. Here’s a recent example:
http://paragoninspects.com/images/hi...d/shelving.jpg
Humidifier manufacturers provided charts of recommend humidity based on exterior temperature, for example here’s Honeywell’s, see pp 3:
http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...s%20Manual.pdf
A relative humidity setting of 40% or higher is recommend only when exterior temperatures are 20F or higher – if you live in a cold climate and are humidifying to such levels you could be doing real harm to your house.
#6
12-20-07, 03:13 PM
Thanks Jay and Michael for the input.
I do only have one furnace and you're right - it doesn't really run a whole lot for a house this size. No real issue though on keeping the place warm.
We hardly ever use our bath fans but we do have quite a bit of hardwood (~850 sq. feet).
I'll read through that manual but it really sounds like 30% isn't too bad. Thanks for the link!
Nimbus
I do only have one furnace and you're right - it doesn't really run a whole lot for a house this size. No real issue though on keeping the place warm.
We hardly ever use our bath fans but we do have quite a bit of hardwood (~850 sq. feet).
I'll read through that manual but it really sounds like 30% isn't too bad. Thanks for the link!
Nimbus
