Humidifier Wiring - Ultra 80 Oil Furnace

Happy Holidays everyone. I have a Armstrong Air Ultra 80 oil furnace. The manual says it can take a humidifier. I've been reading some of the posts hear about wiring and want to make sure I do it correctly (when heat/blower is on).
The humidifiers I'm interested in are Desert Springs (from Lowes) and the Aprilaire 600.

Anything else is needed?.. A50 relay?..

Model # LUF80C84/95D16-1A

 

Yes, you'll need the A50 relay and have it wrapped around the blower's wire.

There is no board on this to wire it to.

 

Thanks for the reply.. Does Lowes, HomeDepot or local hardware store sell this A50 relay?.. I have a couple of wires coming from the blower compartment at the bottom. Which wires will be connected to the A50 and to the Humidifier?..

 

We don't have the A50 at our HD store, and I have not seen them at other stores myself.

You may have to get one from a local dealer or order one online.

Find the heating speed wire and put it on that.

 

I've seen a few sites online that sell it. Far as the wiring, I'll take a pic of the wires coming from the blower to the main furnace compartment and you or someone else can tell me how which wire goes where.

One side note... I'm also getting condensation in the exhaust pipe the leads outside. The rusty residue sometimes leaks inside the furnace compartment (not much). Any way to prevent this from happening?.. I was thinking of sealing the joints with high temp. sealant...

Thanks,


Jnt412..

 

Ok, Will be waiting for the Photo.

Shouldn't be doing this.. Where is this pipe going?? Outside along the side of the house?

 

Ok.. here are the photos of the wires coming from the blower to the upper furnace area. In the process of cleaning up this area more due to the residue from the exaust pipe. The wires seem to be white, black and blue.

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DSC01483.jpg

Here is a pic of the residue coming from the exaust pipe. Its coming from other joints, but its more noticable on the elbow leading towards fire chamber.

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DSC01481.jpg

Here is a pic of the exaust pipe leading outside the house.

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DSC01484.jpg

Here is a pic of the exaust pipe outside the house.

http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DSC01485.jpg

 

White is your common wire, I am guessing Black is Cooling, and Blue is Heating. Try clamping the A50 around the blue, and if that don't work, then try black.

Was this done like this when you brought the house?? Is there a fan inside that housing going outside?

Maybe Grady can help answer this venting rusting..

 

That is a Sideshot power venter & one of the worst things to ever be invented for use on oil fired equipment. You are going to have nothing but trouble. The only solution is a chimney.

 

So, with that style of venting system, he is going to have that rusting that he is getting at the furnace? What is causing that?

 

The house was built (new construction). This is the orginal furnace that was installed with the home in 2004. The flap on the side (in the pic with housing leading outside) turns when a fan blows out the exaust outside. So, I'm sure there is a fan in the house somewhere. This rusting only occurs in the summer during high humidity.

Grady, Is there any other solution that is within DIY scope and budget?..


Thanks..

jnt412..

 

What you describe is quite typical. The easiest & cheapest way to prevent the rust (I know this is going to be a pain the butt, but...) is to disconnect the vent pipe from the furnace & venter each summer & put it back each fall. Something else, a bit more expensive but less trouble, which MIGHT help is to replace the vent pipe with "Type L" double walled pipe. Maybe running a dehumidifier in the basement would help. The pipe may be getting cool enough to cause condensation.

That flap on the side of the vent pipe is a barometric damper or often refered to as a draft regulator. It's purpose is to control the amout of draft to the furnace.

Just FYI: I strongly urge the furnace be cleaned ASAP after the end of each heating season. The dampness & any sulfur residue from the oil creates sulfuric acid & is quite hard on the metal in the furnace.

 

Thanks for your input Grady. Sometimes the condenstation drips from the duct work in the ceiling to the cement floor. Before I start finishing the basement, I'll wrap the duct work with insulation. Could I wrap the exaust pipe with insulation during the summer and take it off during the fall/winter months?. I'm also concerned about the exaust pipe rusting all the way thru as well..

 

By all means insulate the duct. Don't insulate the vent pipe without some means of preventing the burner from being fired. Obviously the same would apply to my previous suggestion of disconnecting the pipe. If you are concerned about the integrety of the vent pipe replace it. Excess moisture can destroy the vent pipe & furnace in a relatively short time. One of my customers has an Armstrong about 10 years old which needs to be replaced due to condensation. Warranty will not cover it because of improper installation by the builder's sub-contractor.

I believe your problem stems from excess humidity in the basement. My own basement is usually cool enough but humid. I run a dehumidifier, the dehumidifier adds heat, now I have to run an A/C to cool the space.

 

Thanks Grady.. This furnace isn't the most efficient one on the market even though it came with the house a few years ago. The vent pipe looks fine. I don't think it will be too difficult to remove it, clean the inside and re-install. Then place insulation around it during the summer and remove it during the winter.

Also, in the picture of the vent pipe and furnace. Did you notice the PVC pipe in the picture?. I placed that there due to a box located near the vent pipe that makes a loud humming sound. Place the pipe underneath it to reduce the noise, but its still a little louder than normal.



Thanks

 

Are you refering to the box to which the vent pipe connects? If so, that is the power venter. It should not be in contact with the floor joists.
I have a customer with one & the installing contractor put the venter thru the cement blocks with no means of dampening the vibration. The venter is directly under the customer's dining room & what a racket!
When we replace his rusted out , 10 yr old Armstrong this next spring, the venter is going to be pulled, the gap between it & the block will be opened up & some vibration dampening material installed prior to reinstalling the venter.