Honeywell IAQ Installation Help

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  #41  
Old 11-22-08, 04:44 PM
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I turned off the humidiifer for a half day and the humidity dropped to 20%. I turned it back on yesterday and humidity has not changed. It is at 19%. It is very uncomfortable. I don't know if the humidity dropped because of the weather or because I shut THE TRUESTEAM down. I do not recall it being this bad with the April Air fan powered humidifier. But I can not compare fairly because last year my garage which is underneath the whole rear of the house was somewhat insulated. Due to renovating the garage has no insulation right now and has a good amount or air infiltration because of old garage doors. One thing is certain, I can't take this much longer, my eyes hurt as I write this.

I wonder if there is a way to know that my true steam is working properly. It doesn't seem like there is much to it. Kind of like it works or it doesn't. Maybe it is not drawing enough water?
 
  #42  
Old 11-22-08, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rldev View Post
I turned off the humidiifer for a half day and the humidity dropped to 20%.
That's awful low... I can't find my chart, but if the air outside is 25˚ and humidity is 45%, that is brought into the home and now that air now becomes a lower level of humidity I'd say 20% (Guessing off top of my head)



has a good amount or air infiltration because of old garage doors.
With this good amount of air infiltration, it is going to do what you saw yourself.

Maybe it is not drawing enough water?
If that was the case, it would flash an error code of low water.
 
  #43  
Old 11-24-08, 09:46 AM
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I closed up the garage doors yesterday. Iam going to run this for a week and see what happens. I have a supplimental room humidifer running(large unit). There is a 10 percent difference in the room where the standalone unit is running.

Is it possible or worthwhile to measure humidity at the floor vents?
 
  #44  
Old 11-24-08, 12:27 PM
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You can do a reading at the floor vent, chances are it's going to be higher than what the room is.
 
  #45  
Old 11-25-08, 06:30 AM
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Connect a Humid-a-Mist

I have a Humid-a-Mist humidifier that sprays a fine mist into the plenum when called for. It has the capability to turn on the Furnace blower and continue to humidify even when the thermostat is not calling for heat.
How do I connect it to the IAQ so that it still operates that way (i.e. when thermostat is not calling for heat) ; Or is it possible for the IAQ to even operate the humidifier that way?

Can I only operate the humidifier when the IAQ calls for heat?

thank-you
 
  #46  
Old 11-25-08, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
You can do a reading at the floor vent, chances are it's going to be higher than what the room is.
Well humidity is much higher today, but this is because it is warmer out and it rained. It went from 20% to 36%. I am still running a standalone humidifier in my den. Humidity in that room is 52% That's a fairly large difference.
 
  #47  
Old 11-25-08, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Brunos111 View Post
I have a Humid-a-Mist humidifier that sprays a fine mist into the plenum when called for.
How long have you had this?


The reason I am asking this, if you had this awhile, I would advise to stop using it.. Those type of humidifier are trouble to happen down the road.. The mist is pure water, and it can damage duct work.. There are many tech who end up ripping them out due to water damage to something.
 
  #48  
Old 11-25-08, 12:05 PM
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Humid-a-mist

I had it for 4 or 5 years and yes it does damage the ductwork.
I have an access door in my plenum for access to the nozzles and the damage (if you call it that) is from buildup of calcium deposits on the inside of the ductwork.
All the ductwork is sealed using duct sealer and has never leaked but again....calcium deposits that I usualy clean with a bit of CLR.
Should I get a new humidifier?

thank-you


thank-you again

BC
 

Last edited by Brunos111; 11-25-08 at 01:49 PM.
  #49  
Old 11-25-08, 02:04 PM
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Ok decided to get a new Humidifier after doing some research
However, can't figure this one out...
I have a Greentek HRV model P with an rd-2 controller(dehumidistat) that I will now discard and use the IAQ.
This is the link to the rd-2 wiring to the HRV's "duotrol"

http://www.greentek.ca/english/pdf/Wall_Controls.pdf

It has a R,G,B,W Can operare on Normal Reduced blower speeds.
#1 don't understand what powered ventilation is vs non-powered? I understand that powered means the HRV has its own power supply and it does (120v) and the controller is powered from its own transformer.
#2 If its powered, I connect the leads on the EIM to v1, t2 and to what on the HRV? R,B,G, W?
#3 what about the other contacts? there are 2 speeds on this thing? Or do I use the vaiable speed blower for dehumidification?
d1,m2

thank-you in advance!

BC
 

Last edited by Brunos111; 11-25-08 at 02:34 PM.
  #50  
Old 11-25-08, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Brunos111 View Post
I have a Greentek HRV model P with an rd-2 controller(dehumidistat) that I will now discard and use the IAQ.
Between the current control and the HRV, what wires are hooked up?


It has a R,G,B,W Can operare on Normal Reduced blower speeds.
Is any of this tied to the furnace, is that what tied between the control and the HRV?

#1 don't understand what powered ventilation is vs non-powered? I understand that powered means the HRV has its own power supply and it does (120v) and the controller is powered from its own transformer.
Where are you getting this info, the IAQ Manual?
 
  #51  
Old 11-25-08, 05:17 PM
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I figured it out.....

The HRV is powered (own 24v power supply), reading the single wall controller wiring diagram shows only 2 wires - G,B (high speed)

The other contacts are for timers W,R. Since the IAQ 'IS' the timer controller, I only needed the 2 wires. The IAQ runs and times everything else including the humidity level.

Talking this through made me think a bit more and realized I only needed to turn on the HRV because the IAQ does everything else...

Thank-you

BC
 

Last edited by Brunos111; 11-25-08 at 06:57 PM.
  #52  
Old 11-26-08, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Brunos111 View Post
I figured it out.....

The HRV is powered (own 24v power supply), reading the single wall controller wiring diagram shows only 2 wires - G,B (high speed)
Perfect, Tied that two wire on Vnt1 and Vnt2. Then you are good to go.
 
  #53  
Old 11-26-08, 06:42 AM
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Oddly enough humidity is at least 6 points higher upstairs where no humidifier is running. Does this say anything?
 
  #54  
Old 11-26-08, 07:31 AM
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Heat rises so the humidity is going to rise with the heat.
 
  #55  
Old 11-28-08, 02:48 PM
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Can I use a C7089EZIAQ with an IAQ?

Purchased and installed the honeywell IAQ Thermostat. Happened to get my hands on a C7089EZIAQ Outdoor sensor that came with a TrueIAQ Humidistat. Since the Thermostat does everything and more than the Humidistat, I don't need the humidistat. Can I use the outdoor sensor however with the Thermostat?

Thank-you

BC
 
  #56  
Old 11-28-08, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Brunos111 View Post
Can I use the outdoor sensor however with the Thermostat?
Yes, you can use this sensor with the IAQ.
 
  #57  
Old 11-28-08, 04:05 PM
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Thank-you Very much and will install it tonight!

BC
 
  #58  
Old 11-30-08, 12:19 PM
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Ok Installed the C7089 outdoor sensor says its 13 degrees F and my other handheld digital and mercury themometer says its 6 F. Checked the local forecast and it says its 5 F.
The outdoor sensor isn't right? Could there be a wiring problem or does it matter if out 1 or out 2 is criss crossed? Maybe the sensor doesn't work or needs to be calibrated?

thank-you

BC
 
  #59  
Old 11-30-08, 12:23 PM
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is there another model # on the package/box/papers for the sensor?

the EZIAQ not really a valid number.
 
  #60  
Old 11-30-08, 12:36 PM
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The sensor (inside the cover) says c7089eziaq. It came together with a TRUEIAQ humidistat. here's the pdf...
http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/69-2072.pdf

near the last few pagers
not sure if the circuit board has something, i'll check
thank-you
 
  #61  
Old 11-30-08, 12:59 PM
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Is your sensor like on page 16?

or is it just a black wire with a thicker black tip?
 
  #62  
Old 11-30-08, 01:04 PM
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Yes like page 16. It has a circuit board inside.

thank-you
BC
 
  #63  
Old 11-30-08, 01:16 PM
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Ok, that is not going to work the the IAQ. So remove it and get the correct one, or disable the frost guard.
 
  #64  
Old 11-30-08, 01:30 PM
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The frost guard? you mean on the programming? Or a physical item on the circuit board?

I'm guessing you mean the programming....

Thank-you

BC
 
  #65  
Old 11-30-08, 01:43 PM
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Yes, in the menu #342, set to 0
 
  #66  
Old 12-02-08, 09:13 AM
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I have a very strange problem. Humidity has been better, but this is due to rain and warmer weather in the last week. Strangely I did notice that my humidity reads 6 - 8% lower on the wall where the thermostat is. If I put a hygrometer on a table withing 2 feet of the tstat, it reads 6 - 8%. This is accurate with other areas of the house. If I put the hygrometer on top of the Vision Pro, it reads the same as the Vision Pro. What could cause this?

At this point I have to consider shutting the True Steam down. If it is not producing the necessary humidity, what it is the point of running it and wasting resources? I will give it another week I guess.
 

Last edited by rldev; 12-02-08 at 10:16 AM.
  #67  
Old 12-02-08, 03:45 PM
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I put the hygrometer at several floor vents. In all cases the humidity was considerably lower then the room humidity and the vision pro humidity readings. This leads me to believe something is wrong with my setup. If the humidity coming out of the vents is 10% lower, it's no wonder this thing doesn't humidify my house.

Also the humidity reading at the Vision Pro is 6% - 8% off what the hygrometer is reading just 2 feet away. If I put the hygrometer on top of the vision pro, they read the same. What would cause this? The hole in the wall for the wire?
 
  #68  
Old 12-04-08, 09:09 PM
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Any thoughts on this Jay? Thanks.
 
  #69  
Old 12-05-08, 07:54 AM
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When you took the readings on the vents, was the heat running or just fan only?
 
  #70  
Old 12-05-08, 10:00 AM
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I have tried it both way.

With the heat on the hygrometer goes down to 16%. Sometimes it can't even read the hummidty, so it is low.

With just the fan on, the humidity is about 10% lower then the room humidity. I am waiting on the hygrometer to give an exact number.
 
  #71  
Old 12-05-08, 02:50 PM
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That seems awful low! I don't have time now, but I will try to do a reading on mine to see what we got.


For kicks, at the furnace take a temp reading at the return before the air filter, and after the A-Coil.
 
  #72  
Old 12-05-08, 03:48 PM
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What kind of thermometer do I need for that and where to get one?
 
  #73  
Old 12-05-08, 10:19 PM
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Any probe type like a meat one.. they are bout 6" long with 1" dial reading or electronic one.
 
  #74  
Old 12-06-08, 07:58 AM
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I have a few. I will do so today and report back.

OK. With the system running in second stage I am getting a return air reading (before media filter)of 72.5 F and a supply side reading of 117.5 F after the A Coil. Setpoint was 72 F. Outdoor temperature is 31 F. Too much of a differential?

I noticed that when the Truesteam goes through a drain cycle it literally drains the tank and refills it 3 to 4 times before it goes back to supplying humidity. Is this a problem?
 

Last edited by rldev; 12-06-08 at 10:40 AM.
  #75  
Old 12-06-08, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rldev View Post
OK. With the system running in second stage I am getting a return air reading (before media filter)of 72.5 F and a supply side reading of 117.5 F after the A Coil. Setpoint was 72 F. Outdoor temperature is 31 F. Too much of a differential?
About 45˚ rise sounds normal. Specs are on the sticker with your furnace model #.

I noticed that when the Truesteam goes through a drain cycle it literally drains the tank and refills it 3 to 4 times before it goes back to supplying humidity. Is this a problem?
I am not sure.... I am guessing this is not normal? I'll see what the manual says..
 
  #76  
Old 12-13-08, 12:03 PM
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I replaced the Humid-a-mist Humidifier with a Generalair 1042. Standard installation with unit on return side.
Connected to the hot water supply because I read hot water tends to evaporate better. Actually tried cold water first and got the humidity up to 35% or so. Connected to Hot water and got it up to 42-44%.
Its actually better getting up in the morning with no dry nose and creaky floors anymore since my Humid-a-mist hasn't worked for 2 winters now.
I know that there is a 'standard ' to humidity levels depending on the temp outside (I don't have a sensor yet). But just for kicks.... Could I not get the humidity level higher to lets say 50% by setting the Humidity level set at 50% and having the furnace blower come on if there is a call for higher humidity?

#342 = 0
#372 = 1
#374 = 1

these settings are what I have now

these should work to get the humidity higher correct?

thank-you
 
  #77  
Old 12-13-08, 12:18 PM
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Trouble Replacing PC8900 with VisionPro IAQ

I have a Bryant Plus 90i furnace, HE260 Humidifier, Venmar Solo 1.5 that all need to be controlled. The PC8900 quit reading indoor humidity so I bought the Vision Pro IAQ to replace it.

When I hooked up the replacement IAQ using the same terminals that were used on the PC8900 I don't get any humidity control, nor does it recognize the humidifier. Also, the existing outside temperature sensor now reads 127 degrees.

On the PC 8900 there was a jumper wired from the Hum 1 to the R terminal and from the RH to the R terminal. I wired the Hum1 to RH jumper but skipped the other one since it has a factory installed jumper.

Any ideas?
 
  #78  
Old 12-13-08, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by drettn View Post
I Also, the existing outside temperature sensor now reads 127 degrees.
Are you using the old sensor, or did you replace that?

I wired the Hum1 to RH jumper but skipped the other one since it has a factory installed jumper.
Is anything wired to HUM2?

Did you follow the set up menu to turn on the humidifier?
 
  #79  
Old 12-13-08, 02:57 PM
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Thanks for the response.

From the furnace the Yellow wire connects to the Y terminal. A second red wire goes from this Y terminal to the Vanee. The white wire for the vanee goes to the C terminal

From the humidifier the red wire goes to Hum2 and the white wire to C.
 
  #80  
Old 12-13-08, 03:01 PM
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I am using the old sensor. I guess I need to replace it with the updated sensor.
 
 

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