Honeywell HE120A Drum Whole House Humidifier

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Old 02-22-08, 06:29 AM
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Honeywell HE120A Drum Whole House Humidifier

Humidifier Experts-

I recently (December) installed a Honeywell HE120A Drum Whole House Humidifier on my furnace, following all the instructions precisely. The reason for installing the humidifier was that we were experiencing a lot of static-electricity "carpet shock". My hopes by installing the humidifier was to eliminate the static-electricity in the home and also lower the thermostat, being that the air would be more humid.

Well needless to say we are still experiencing a lot of static-electricity, "carpet shock" and my thermostat setting has not changed.

Is there a way for me to test the humidity in the house? Also do you have any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

Thanks for all the help and advice!

Josh
 
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Old 02-22-08, 07:57 AM
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Do you have a weather station or what not that reads indoor/outdoor temps, and indoor humidity? You can use that to see what your reading is in the home.

The drum style are thing of the past, and lot of people don't like the due to high maint. and a breading ground for germs with standing water.

What is the avg run time on your furnace?
 
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Old 02-22-08, 08:12 AM
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I don't have a weather station or anything to sense the humidity in the home, I will look into getting one.

Average run time on the furnace is about 10 minutes, 10 minutes on & then 10 minutes off, etc. This is just a guesstimate as I haven't timed it out. But it seems as if the thermostat dips 1 degree below the set temperature and the furnace kicks on.

My townhouse is 1400 sq ft, built about 10 years ago.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 02-22-08, 08:30 AM
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What make and model of t-stat do you have? Your run time seems short.

Do you know if you have fresh air tied into the return itself, or air exchanger system?
 
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Old 02-22-08, 08:39 AM
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My thermostat is a Honeywell 5-2 programmable thermostat (RTH230B).

My return is located at the top of my stairs on the 2nd floor of my townhouse and the furnace is in the basement.

Thanks!
 
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Old 02-22-08, 08:56 AM
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If you still have the install manual of the t-stat, set up heating CPH to 3, will give you a longer run time.

No return in the main floor? Wow.. a long run for a return from basement all the way upstairs.

My question earlier, is there any fresh air pipe tied into the return? (Outside air brought into the home into the ductwork) Most of the time it's a 6" pipe that may be wrapped in insulation.
 
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Old 02-22-08, 09:00 AM
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Wink

Their are many % relative humidity displays out that you can get and check the humidity in the home with. But you might look into getting a good power unit. Like a Aprilaire 700 or a Honeywell power unit. They do the job
 
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Old 02-22-08, 10:30 AM
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Jay11J-

There is no return on the main floor, I can get on a ladder and remove the return grate and look straight down to the base of the furnace, the return duct is one long straight run.

To answer your question, there is no outside air being funneled into the return.

My concern/reason for posting the question is that either the furnace is not operating efficiently which is causing the humidifier to under perform or that the humidifier is just not strong enough for my set up.
 
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Old 02-22-08, 10:35 AM
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That unit should be able to do the job, but if the furnace runs a short cycle, it won't do much for you.. That's why I'd suggest to get into the t-stat set up menu, and change the Heat CPH to 3 to give you a longer run time.
 
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Old 02-22-08, 10:49 AM
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I will make the recommended changes and report back.

Thanks again
 
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Old 02-28-08, 04:52 PM
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I made the changes and also got a digital weather station that reads indoor/outdoor temps, and indoor humidity. The humidity on the main floor varies from 25% - 35% depending on the weather outside.

Is this acceptable, even though I have the humidifier up to 100%?

Thanks,

Josh
 
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Old 02-28-08, 08:13 PM
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Depends on what the temp is outdside, but it's all that model can do since there is no hot water, and short run run time of your furnace.
 
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Old 02-29-08, 09:30 PM
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Location ??

Originally Posted by NewHomeOwner821 View Post
Humidifier Experts-

I recently (December) installed a Honeywell HE120A Drum Whole House Humidifier on my furnace, following all the instructions precisely. The reason for installing the humidifier was that we were experiencing a lot of static-electricity "carpet shock". My hopes by installing the humidifier was to eliminate the static-electricity in the home and also lower the thermostat, being that the air would be more humid.

Well needless to say we are still experiencing a lot of static-electricity, "carpet shock" and my thermostat setting has not changed.

Is there a way for me to test the humidity in the house? Also do you have any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

Thanks for all the help and advice!

Josh
Hi Josh

I recently bought a Honeywell HE120 and I can't decide on which duct should I mount it. The directions say that it can be installed on either the return duct(cold air) or the supply duct(warm air). I have 2 year-old high-boy gas furnace in my basement and I noticed that the return duct is a little narrower(it has little over 10 in.) than the warm duct(16 in wide). The directions call for at least 11in wide for proper installation even though the opening required for the humidifier is a rectangle 6 3/4 in by 8 3/4 in. Some people advise to install it on the return duct while others suggest to mount the humidifier on the supply warm duct. Any good advice on this?
 
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Old 03-01-08, 05:16 AM
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YOu can mount it on the return. I have mine on it.. (Not the 120) and you'll have a little bit of over hang of the unit itself.

Why are you going with the 120??
 
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Old 03-02-08, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
YOu can mount it on the return. I have mine on it.. (Not the 120) and you'll have a little bit of over hang of the unit itself.

Why are you going with the 120??
I didn't do a lot of shopping for humidifiers...I just decided that we needed one, stopped by Home Depot, and picked up one. By the way, it was the most expensive(160$) they had on the shelf. Later, I went over to Lowes and saw Hamilton bypass humidifiers, and their price was within the same range. Is Honeywell 120 that bad? Should I return it??

While at Lowes, I noticed that Hamilton units had an installation drawing on the box of the humidifier, and on that drawing the main unit was located on the return duct, with bypass on the warm duct. Again, some argue that installing the main unit on the return duct wouldn't give as much humidity as it would if installed on the supply(warm) duct.

Speaking of locations, the booklet recomends installing the humidistat on the return duct(8 in above the main unit) or on the wall inside the house. Which one would be better?
 
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Old 03-02-08, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Davey24 View Post
I By the way, it was the most expensive(160$) they had on the shelf. Later, I went over to Lowes and saw Hamilton bypass humidifiers, and their price was within the same range.
HD has the HE220 (I have), HE260, and powered unit HE360.

Is Honeywell 120 that bad? Should I return it??
The tray with a float is not the best.. you got standing water, but if your water bills are high, and/or don't have a floor drain, then stay with the 120.

with bypass on the warm duct. Again, some argue that installing the main unit on the return duct wouldn't give as much humidity as it would if installed on the supply(warm) duct.
I got my bypass on my return had works fine, it cycles on and off as needed.

Speaking of locations, the booklet recomends installing the humidistat on the return duct(8 in above the main unit) or on the wall inside the house. Which one would be better?
Return is easier, and you got the whole house avg, vs just in the hall way next to the t-stat.
 
 

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