How can I tell if the Sail switch is needed for the humidifier install? Directions state some furnaces don't need sail switch. Furnace: TraneXR90 (UX-C)
Thanks!
Also, is it better to hook to hot or cold water line? How many gallons flow through in a cold day with the furnace running?

 

You won't need it..

Photo below is mine.. behind this cover (Turn power OFF), there a wire taped "HUM" on it.. A knock out to mount the transformer to as seen below.



They say it don't matter.. I think it does better with hot water, you get more more humidity with hot water than cold.

From Honeywell's web page.

How much water should my humidifier use?

The amount of water that a humidifier uses depends on the type of humidifier.
A flow through humidifier (HE220/HE250 will use about three gallons of water per hour of operation. One half to three quarters of a gallon will be evaporated per hour to condition the air, while the rest flows down the humidifier pad. As it does so, the water flushes mineral deposits down the drain, thereby allowing longer service intervals between pad replacement.

 

Thanks!
I have everything installed and running! I have a question on the operation of the humidifier though.
1. Do most people put the furnace fan on 'auto' - meaning that the humidifier only runs when the furnace kicks on which probably means the humidity level in the house is not as much as it could be, especially in newer better insulated homes. Or
2. Set the fan 'ON' and run the humidifier all the time - more energy and water - better humidity?
3. Also, I noticed that for water to even flow through the humidifier when the blower is running the humidistat seems to have to be slightly above 40. Is this normal or should I keep experimenting and see what setting works best?

Thanks

 

OK, I am really second guessing myself now. The Honeywell 220 installation instructions show mounting the humidifier above the furnace - hot air side and the bypass damper to the cold air return. Now I see a bunch of stuff online and from other brands that the ideal mounting is just the opposite!
What's really right?
Do I need to switch this thing around to work efficiently and why the contradictions?? Arrgh!

Thanks

 

You are welcome, glad to hear it's up and running.

I had mine wired up to EAC instead of HUM the first winter I had it, and I seen that the humidifier ran more with fan (more wasted water), and last year switched it over to HUM to only run with the heat, and it kept up just fine, less water is wasted.. They work better with hot air going over the pad. so leave the Humidifer to run with heat only.

I have variable speed, so I run my fan 24/7 in the heating seasons, and AUTO in the cooling season.

The HUM wire will only power up on call of heat, EAC will power any time the blower is running.


I run mine at 40%, and if the house is above 40%, it won't run. As you can see on the chart, the colder it gets, you should lower the % if you have frost building up on the windows.

No need to second guess yourself. Either side works just fine.. Not sure why Honeywell only shows it on the supply. I have mine on the return side, and it works just fine..

The air flow will always come from the supply side to the return, so the pad is always going to have hot air going over it.

Lot of pro perfer the unit on the return, just in case if there is water problem, you won't have to worry about damage to control or anything on the furnace itself.

 

Jay,
Thank you! You are so knowledgable and post your replies so fast! I appreciate having a place to ask these questions and get quick responses! Thanks again!

 

Come on back any time if you have any questions!

Have a great week.

 

Jay - are you still out there?

I can't find that HUM wire and so currently I have mine wired directly from the 120 power going into my heating unit (ICECO) to the transfomer and then to the humdistat

I have a EAC on the motherboard of the HVAC but no wire coming out of it.

Another issue is that I have a small apartment without any return ducts - the bottom of the HVAC just has a filter so I was thinking of running the bypass down to that directly. Do you think that will work? I know Honeywell makes one with out a bypass but it won't fit in my small space.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for any info and help

 

Yepper!

Are you using the sail switch, or nothing?

Is it a 1/4" male spade? If so, you can buy the 1/4" female spade to slide over that.

Into the cabinet, or is the furnace sitting on a duct/box?

 

That is great - thank you so much for the quick response

I was using nothing but I just bought the kit with the sail switch
It is a 1/4" male

I think it is going directly into the cabinet

 

The sail switch won't be needed if you wire it to the furnace.


You can put it on to the side where a return would of been hooked up if it was in a home with return ductworks.

If you can take a photo of your set up, and we can be sure what you got going on.


FYI, to do a quote, you highlight the area you want quoted, and then click on the button above "Quote" button

 

If I do not need the sail switch - should I be doing something different with my wires?

I also tried inserting pictures but it wants a URL address of the photo that is on my hardrive

 

Yes, i will help you with that once we get all the info.

You need to upload the photo to a photo host site like imageshack.us, or yahoo.

then you copy the URL/direct link to photo, and then past it on on where it asked you for the URl

 

Hi Jay,

Sorry for the delay - Here are some photos









Let me know your thoughts or if I can give you anymore info

 

Is there room on the right side of the furnace?

how is the air getting to the air filter? (BTW, Air filter is over due for a change)

Is there gas water heater in the same area?

 

There is a closet directly to the left of this one that has a gas tankless water heater (bosch 650es)

 

Not a good thing to have this return pulling air out of the room that has two gas fired applainces.. Risk of CO.

I am not sure how we are going to tie the bypass into the return... Guess have a pipe go right down infront of the filter..

How did you get back there and cut the hole into the duct?

 

The water heater has a intake duct the goes outside

That what I was thinking but I was worried about creating enough suction

The hole for the unit? - I made a hole with a drill then cut the hole bigger and then was able to get a saws all in there to finish it off.

PS - I can take a higher res photo of motherboard if that is handy for you...

 

I messed up the quotes again - sorry about that I will get it next time - sorry

 

The air is going to blow out of the humidifer.


I would use the flex/foil type, that way if it's in the way, it can easly be moved if needed.

 

That sounds good for the vent but how do I get the humidifier to go on and off with the heat?

 

The EAC will come on when the blower comes on..

Wire the transformer to that, and then hook up your low voltage wire to the transformer.

 

I just want to make sure I understand...

I will take 12 gauge wire use only the one line (hot no neutral) get a spade, hook it up to the EAC (thats were I am going to get my power) and then go into transformer...but when I get to transformer it wants hot and a neutral - what should I do then?

I can't thank you enough for all the help and insight you have given me - thank you.

 

Then run the white/neutral wire back to neutral spade on the board.

 

Hi Jay - I just wanted to let you know that the wiring worked perfectly and I just have to wait and see if my makeshift duct work is working. I can't thank you enough!!!

 

Glad to hear you are up and running..

Air the air coming otu of the pipe from the humidifier?

 

Jay...
New guy...not even sure how to post. I have just installed a 6 gallon TrueSteam with IAQ. I really believe it was working fine the first day...once I saw the "set 10 to 1 and 25 to 2....but now it just never turns off. It runs the fan and shows the Hum light on the true steam even when the IAQ show the Humidity MUCH higher that the setting on the IAQ...any ideas...tia.

 

How do you have it wired up to the EIM from the TrueSTEAM?

 

Hello, I have similar problem after I installed a new furnace and a Honeywell HE225 humidifier. Water only supply to the humidifier when the heat kicks in. Though I have the FAN switched to ON all the time, but if heat not kicked in, no water supply to the humidifier. Therefore, my house humidity is always around 26% or below. As for my skins problem, I need at least 35% humidity. Will a Sail Switch or a Sensing Relay solve my problem? Thanks.

 

You can rewire it to EAC insted of HUM. I tried it on mine and did not much changes, other than lot of wasted water. Is your furnace a two stage? Or the stat needs to be adjusted.