Now I am curious about true steam 12 gal humidifiers. I have following questions.
Can I mount this on the duct face perpendicular to AC tube, thats my only option. I don't know the height of "A" profile of my AC tubes. But this humidifier just need an inch hole and 4 screws, Should I be worried about damaging tubes inside?
Also if sheetmetal can hold the weight of this humidifier, this looks like heavier than others.
I dont want to go remote options as amount of sheetmetal cutting is same for both otpion.
Also, What is the advantage of using Vision PRo. It seems like more expensive but I am just worried it may be more involved to install than digital Pro. I am new to electrical connection of this sort, I am kind of hesitating to go with vision Pro IAQ assuming it may be more complicated to install, any thoughts

 

Can you post a photo of your set up? We may be able to say if you are safe or not.

How big and how old is your home?

I think the VisionPro is going to be a lot easier to wire than the TrueIAQ..

had a few guys that was struggling with it for abit to wire the TrueIAQ, the VisionPro is easier.

Also, what is the make and model of your furnace?

Do you have a newer home with HRV (air exchanger)?

 

This is the only open side of my supply furnace, where
I want to mount Truesteam humidifier
SOUTH on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
From top of furnace to top of duct is 27 inches.
My furnace is Lennox G40UH(X) series.
My house is 3300 sqft and its two year old.

I am not sure that if I have HRV air exchanger or not. How would i Know that?

 

Got a photo of the other side, so I kinda have an ideal on where the lines is going in the duct for the A-Coil?

That is a basic 80% single stage furnace.



SHould have something like this some where near the furnace.

 

I have added the picture of AC tubes IN side

Flickr: asad_j9's Photostream

I don't find any air exchanger next to furnace.

Please advise

 

Boy.... Looks like we may be pushing it... Looks like you got a pretty large coil in there..

By any chance a book was left behind for the coil to get the coil model off of this? (install manual) may have to see if I can find the specs on this coil..

Any reason why you are going with the TrueSTEAM vs a bypass unit?

 

I looked earlier and did not find any info on coil, I even tried calling the contractor who worked with the builder but he never got back to me.

I may try to call them again but I am not sure if I will get anywhere with this.

I am considering with true steam as for bypass unit my choice will be HE 260 but it is only rated for 3000 square feet and also my furnace runs quite a bit in coldest days but not all the time so I am worried that HE260 won't be sufficient for my square feet. Also, duct cutting seems minimal in truesteam and even in bypass I may need to cut 6 inch hole in supply side and i will be worried about damaging coils again as I am worried for 1 inch hole in truesteam

 

With that new of a home, I think the HE260 will be just fine.

Newer homes are tighter, and should not be an issue with it not keeping up. I know my parent's house (bypass) has no issues at all keeping up.


You can run the bypass to the supply run that takes off the main duct. that what I did on mine.

 

The true steam would be your best bet. I don't know if you were aware but you can remote mount the humidifier from up to 20 feet away. You don't have to mount the humidifier to the supply duct. You would get a remote kit and all you would need is a small hole in the ductwork. Steam gives you much better humidification than a bypass. I hope this helps your situation.

 

Is it possible to increase the humidity in the house by tweaking the furnace? Since I see water dripping in the drain from the hose which comes from the furnace. People say “you do not need a humidifire with a high efficinency furnace” but my house is bone dry of 25%. I have an 8 year old townhouse as well as an 8 year old H.E. Lennox furnace. I have tried out central humidifers without any success. Right now, I am using a portable counsole type of cool mist humidifier, which evaporates 18 gallons per day and it can barely make 40% humidity in 1/3 of the house. Could It be that my furnace is stealing humidity from the air and dumps it into the drain. I was thinking of installing Honeywell steam 12 gallon humidifer but I fear that it won’t be enough because it is less than 18 gallons which I am already using now.
Desperate from Toronto

 

No, you furnace is not taking anything out.. The water is from the exhaust gas that is passing though your secondary heat exchanger.


Do you have fresh air tied into your return? Or have an air exchanger (HRV)?

 

I really like the Honeywell TrueSTEAM design (and VisionPRO IAQ Control) but am disappointed by its low output.

First some stats on the house: 1-yr old, 3-story plus unfinished insulated basement, ~5K sq ft total, one furnace for the basement and 1st floor, and a second furnace for the 2nd and 3rd floors. The entire 1st floor has wood flooring and the 2nd floor is half wood and half carpet. The house was not built like those in the Midwest, but it is reasonably tight for the age. The plan was to install a 9-gal/day unit on each furnace plenum, which meets Honeywell's recommendation.

I installed the first 9-gal/day unit on the lower furnace and ran it for nearly two weeks. At that point it had a tough time keeping the humidity at 35% given only a 40F temp difference (70F inside vs. 30F outside). And this required running the furnace fan nearly 20 hrs/day AND closing the 6-inch fresh air intake to the furnace return side. If the temp difference drops to 25-30F, i.e. the outside rises to 40-45F, it has a tough time getting the humidity to 40%. What's the point of the VisionPRO IAQ if the humidity cannot reach the desired set point?

The upper unit has not been installed yet. For now, I have one portable 4-gal/day steam humidifier on 2nd floor and a second on 3rd floor, which helps to keep the humidity on those levels in the low-/mid-30% given a 40F temp difference.

There is also an issue w/ the upper furnace that has both its insulated supply and return ducts in unconditioned attic space. If the TrueSTEAM requires the furnace fan to run for long periods w/o heat, there is a risk that the moisture will condense on the inside of the cool ducts thereby increasing the risk of mold.

How can I resolve this humidity problem? Is the solution to use a high-output (e.g. ~20-gal/day) 220V steam generator that fits into the plenum?

I think it is a waste of energy to run the furnace fan nearly non-stop and still not hit the recommended humidity set point. I think the humidifier should be able to hit the set point during the heating cycles or perhaps w/ a little extended run of the furnace fan.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Michael

 

"The house was not built like those in the Midwest, but it is reasonably tight for the age. The plan was to install a 9-gal/day unit on each furnace plenum, which meets Honeywell's recommendation."


As far as the TrueSteam humidifiers are concerned, there are two problems. First you are sized wrong. You selected the 9 gallon unit which covers a maximum of 2500 square feet so in a normal situation you would push that model to the limits and the fact that you have all hardwood makes it even more necessary to go with the 12 gallon unit. If you had all carpet you could probably get away with the 9 gallon.

Another problem I see is that a portion of the humidity dispensed to the 1st floor of your house is going to rise to the 2nd and 3rd floors and this is probably what is creating the problem. Install the other unit as you originally planned or trade the 9 gallon you haven't installed yet in for a 12 gallon then swap out the 9 you have installed with the 12.

 

Michael12345,

Reading your post is exactly what I am experiencing with identical equipment. I had two 9 gallon TrueSteams. They could not keep up. I installed two 12 gallon True Steams and I still have the same problem. Multiple Honeywell reps, Distributors, HVAC installers have looked at the issue. They want to help and have tried but more or less just blame each other and other equipment.

Even with the 12 gallons, they end up running almost 24 x 7. That in turn raises my electric bill by 150% - which is nuts.

Their behaviour appears erratic. On some days they maintain humidity with no problem. On other days they run 24 x 7 - regardless of the humidity set point 35% or 40% at any frost setting really. I have 2 ERV's - a part of the problem I've concluded is that 'New Air' is constantly being brought in through the ERV intake which overdries the house and in turn makes the humidifier constantly on.

I am pretty much loosing my mind trying to resolve this crap. Having a basic April Aire with no ERV's and no HoneyWell IQ PRO - I had zero issues. I would love to chat more about it with you.

Dan

 

Sorry but I don't buy this story. "Multiple Honeywell reps, Distributors, and HVAC installers have looked at this issue. "???

It's obvious to even a layman that you can't expect to keep humidity in a house with two ERV's exchanging the air several times an hour. Shut the ERV's off and the problem goes away if the humidifier installations were done correctly.

Play with the ERV settings until you get enough outside air...but not too much so as to negate the humidity to insufficient levels. Increase your outside air settings during the months when the humidifiers are not operating.

Go to this link and click the Truesteam Sizing Guidelines.PDF under the video. Once you read this you will understand the true sizing guidelines for Honeywell Truesteam humidifiers.

TrueSTEAM

 

I have the Truesteam 12 Gallon humidifier and need wiring help to connect it between an existing ritetemp 6080 and a Goodman GMS8 HVAC. The problem I'm having is that the honeywell instructions only provide wiring when in conjuction with other honeywell products and the furnace and ritetemp wiring details for a humidifier hookup are different.

Can anyone detail what to connect to and from each device?

 

The RiteTemp is not going to work with TrueSTEAM if you are planing on using that stat to run the humidifier.

YOu could use it in a way, but it would not be worth the extra relays to make it work.

 

Jay,

Thank you for your response. I was starting to suspect such but I don't understand why. What is special about the truesteam that would not allow it to work with this thermostat which has built in humidity control? Would you recommend replacing the tstat with a honeywell vision IAQ or just a mechanical H8908 in conjunction with my existing tstat?

Thanks,

Pedro.

 

The RiteTemp stat will turn on the humidifier, but it has no control/set up to force the fan on, and other settings to run the steam the correct way.

I'd suggest the IAQ t-stat, it's by far the best stat out there. What is make/model your heating/cooling equipment?

 

My HVAC system is a Goodman GMS8.

 

It's up to you, the IAQ may be an over kill for your furnace since it's a basic furnace. But nice thing is if you do get the IAQ, and update the equipment to a two stage variable speed, and/or heat pump, you are ready to go.

 

Jay,

Actually, the Ritetemp 6080 controls the truesteam perfectly. I connected H and C on the TSTAT to HUM terminals of the truesteam. I set the TSTAT jumper 6 to closed (meaning it will turn the fan on and turn on the truesteam on a call for humidity with/without heat).

Thanks,

Pedro.

 

Oh... Okay.. They must of updated it then.

thanks for the update.

 

Is it ok to mount a Honeywell TrueSteam (HM512) on the side of the A-coil? In order to meet the minimum 24 inches of downstream open duct air space requirement I need to mount it on the side of the A-coil.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have seen it done with the powered units, just BECAREFUL with the coil on the other side!

 

I am having some problem with the True Steam Hm512 with VisionProIAq . i have successfully mounted the true steam on on the duct, and connected the EIM and thermostart .

Can any one correct me if i am wrong in the wiring.

Thermo stat -- EIM as follows

1 - 1
2 - 2
3 - 3

EIM - to Furnace as follows

W - W
Y - Y
G - g
R - R
C - com/24v


EIM - True steam Humidifier

Hum -- HUM
Hum -- HUM

furnace is working fine no issues, True steam in not starting. All i can see the power light is on, nothing working. if i press the drain its working but the humidifier is not working.

can any one suggest me what wrong with this. I help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Make sure dipswitch 4 is up/on.

IAQ set up menu
370-1
372-2 (If you have outdoor sensor)
374-1

If all set up right, then what is your set point? Frost settings? House humidity reading? Outdoors temps?

 

Jay,

My Dipswitch 4 is on.
i dont have function code 370-1
I have function upto 330 and then 500 above

do i am missing something here...

my thermostat model is TH9421C and EIM model THM5421C


Thanks

 

370 is in installers setup on stat

 

Sorry,

I got the 370 function not the 374, sorry to bugging you too much

 

What is 372 set to? Do you have outdoor sensor?