Aprilaire 600A Humidity Too Low
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Aprilaire 600A Humidity Too Low
Last spring I installed an Aprilaire 600A bypass humidifier to replace a much older Aprilaire unit.
I live in MN, and only able to get the humidity to 30%...I would like 35-40%
We live in a two story walk about home with about 3000 sq feet of space.
The water line is connected to hot water. I have set my Honewell IAQ thermostat to run the fan continuously, and the humdifier runs while the fan is on.
I have noticed that the water flow to the pan at the top of the humdifier is much slower than my old unit. When I hold the pan level, the water drips out of each hole at about one drip per second. I have checked the saddle valve and it is wide open.
I am wondering if the issue here is that the water flow is less than that it should be? How do I determine that?
What else should I check?
Thanks!
I live in MN, and only able to get the humidity to 30%...I would like 35-40%
We live in a two story walk about home with about 3000 sq feet of space.
The water line is connected to hot water. I have set my Honewell IAQ thermostat to run the fan continuously, and the humdifier runs while the fan is on.
I have noticed that the water flow to the pan at the top of the humdifier is much slower than my old unit. When I hold the pan level, the water drips out of each hole at about one drip per second. I have checked the saddle valve and it is wide open.
I am wondering if the issue here is that the water flow is less than that it should be? How do I determine that?
What else should I check?
Thanks!
#2
Have you removed the screen on the valve to see if it's clean?
Sounds like the screen is plugged.
While you got the water line unhooked, put the line into a bucket, and open the valve to flush out the line, it should blow pretty hard.
Do you have an outdoor sensor on your IAQ, and frost guard on or off?
Sounds like the screen is plugged.
While you got the water line unhooked, put the line into a bucket, and open the valve to flush out the line, it should blow pretty hard.
Do you have an outdoor sensor on your IAQ, and frost guard on or off?
#3
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 386
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I assume you have adjusted the humidstat to a higher setting? Mine is set to 4 and I have only a 1500 Sq house with what would be called "leaky". ---Old house.
Is this on manual or automatic control when you wired it up?
I have the same model and installed it about a month ago.
Also, you can plumb it to hot water for maximum evaporation if needed, but I cannot imagine you would get that much more out of hot water...
Is this on manual or automatic control when you wired it up?
I have the same model and installed it about a month ago.
Also, you can plumb it to hot water for maximum evaporation if needed, but I cannot imagine you would get that much more out of hot water...
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I assume you have adjusted the humidstat to a higher setting? Mine is set to 4 and I have only a 1500 Sq house with what would be called "leaky". ---Old house.
Is this on manual or automatic control when you wired it up?
I have the same model and installed it about a month ago.
Also, you can plumb it to hot water for maximum evaporation if needed, but I cannot imagine you would get that much more out of hot water...
Is this on manual or automatic control when you wired it up?
I have the same model and installed it about a month ago.
Also, you can plumb it to hot water for maximum evaporation if needed, but I cannot imagine you would get that much more out of hot water...
It is connected to hot water
Thanks
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Have you removed the screen on the valve to see if it's clean?
Sounds like the screen is plugged.
While you got the water line unhooked, put the line into a bucket, and open the valve to flush out the line, it should blow pretty hard.
Do you have an outdoor sensor on your IAQ, and frost guard on or off?
Sounds like the screen is plugged.
While you got the water line unhooked, put the line into a bucket, and open the valve to flush out the line, it should blow pretty hard.
Do you have an outdoor sensor on your IAQ, and frost guard on or off?
Water pressure is strong thru the copper water line to the solenoid. I disconnected the plastic water line between the solenoid and the humdifier. I then tested water flow thru the solenoid with the solenoid open, and closed.
When open, the water that goes thru the solenoid is just a trickle...so something is restricting the water flow. When closed, the water stops.
I was wondering if the solenoid might not have enough current to open all the way. My volt meter is over at my daughters house right now.
I wired this per page 1 of the wiring guide for the Honeywell Vision Pro IAQ. I used the "without power supply" wiring guide. One wire from the solenoid is connected to the common terminal on the IAQ, and the other wire is connected to the M2 terminal. Per the diagram, H1 is jumpered to RH, and RH, and RH is connected to RC and R. Please let me know if this is correct.
It would seem that there is clogged screen that I can not locate, or there is problem with the wiring that causes the solenoid to only party open, or the solenoid is defective. Keep in mind this humidifier is less than a year old.
I do not have an outdoor humidity sensor, and frost guard is off.
What do you think?
Thanks much!
Jeff
Last edited by jsbigger; 12-06-08 at 03:27 PM.
#6
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 52
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I'm also having performance problems with my Aprilaire 600A humidifier. I seem to be having a good water-flow, but for some reason the insert is not pulling the water up from the pan. I just installed a new insert 2 months ago, and from the beginning I could see that the insert only gets 1/3 moist (bottom 1/3), now it doesn't seem to be pulling any water at all. My theory is that calcium deposits are interfering with the wicking action and after couple of weeks the insert is useless. I'm considering modding my 600A and installing a small circulating pump that would get the water from the pan and continuously spray it to the top of the insert.
Any thoughts on this idea? Oh, my house humidity is at 31% - stat set to 50%.
--Rob in VA

--Rob in VA
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I'm also having performance problems with my Aprilaire 600A humidifier. I seem to be having a good water-flow, but for some reason the insert is not pulling the water up from the pan. I just installed a new insert 2 months ago, and from the beginning I could see that the insert only gets 1/3 moist (bottom 1/3), now it doesn't seem to be pulling any water at all. My theory is that calcium deposits are interfering with the wicking action and after couple of weeks the insert is useless. I'm considering modding my 600A and installing a small circulating pump that would get the water from the pan and continuously spray it to the top of the insert.
Any thoughts on this idea? Oh, my house humidity is at 31% - stat set to 50%.
--Rob in VA

--Rob in VA
#8
Yes.
Undo the line again, remove screen, then turn on the solenoid, and blow into the hose that the water goes into the pad.. (Blow back out where the water would come in..)
Maybe?? it's either open or closed... Could try to see what your voltage is.
Yep, that is correct.
When open, the water that goes thru the solenoid is just a trickle...so something is restricting the water flow. When closed, the water stops.
I was wondering if the solenoid might not have enough current to open all the way. My volt meter is over at my daughters house right now.
I wired this per page 1 of the wiring guide for the Honeywell Vision Pro IAQ. I used the "without power supply" wiring guide. One wire from the solenoid is connected to the common terminal on the IAQ, and the other wire is connected to the M2 terminal. Per the diagram, H1 is jumpered to RH, and RH, and RH is connected to RC and R. Please let me know if this is correct.
#9
Do you have the metal type pad or the paper type? These style of unit don't pull the water up.. They are the "Flow though" type. Water flows from the top down to the bottom and out the drain.
Is the water in the top tray going across the whole thing even, and also is the tray coated in this "Sand" like products?
Is the water in the top tray going across the whole thing even, and also is the tray coated in this "Sand" like products?
#10
Should be a steady stream... About 1/4" stream..
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Jay, I tried blowing into the open solenoid (oppositie direction of water flow) and the air did not move very fast. Then I hooked up the water line again, and the water flow continues thru the solenoid continues to flow at a fast drip at best.
Absent any problem with voltage, should I get a new solednoid?
Thanks!
Jeff
Absent any problem with voltage, should I get a new solednoid?
Thanks!
Jeff
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Jay, as I previously mentioned, when I disconnect the plastic water line between the valve and the top of the humidifer, the flow of water is only a faster drip when the valve is open. Should the flow be faster than this out of the valve?
#19
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 386
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Rather than a drip, it should be a flow of water. Check your tap or water source to make sure its not partly closed.
Or rather, take a picture of this water tap so we can see.
Do you use well-water or city water?
#20
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 52
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Do you have the metal type pad or the paper type? These style of unit don't pull the water up.. They are the "Flow though" type. Water flows from the top down to the bottom and out the drain.
Is the water in the top tray going across the whole thing even, and also is the tray coated in this "Sand" like products?
Is the water in the top tray going across the whole thing even, and also is the tray coated in this "Sand" like products?
#21
I have a combination metal/paper pad that is supposed to wick the water up. While there is a drain on the unit, this model is not supposed to be continuously flowing and draining. The pan fills up and there are two floating cut-off switches that shut-off the solenoid when the pan is full of water.
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
The flow of water from the saddle to the end of the copper line (disconnected from the solenoid valve) is very strong. Next I connect the copper line to the solenoid valve, and disconnect the plastic line on the outflow side of the valve. I ensure the valve is open, then I turn on the water....and I only get a fast drip.
So do I have a bad solenoid valve?
So do I have a bad solenoid valve?
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 56
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
The yellow orifice is not in place. I will try a new valve. I ordered the humdifier from an online store, and their policy states that they will not honor warranty claims unless I can show that the equipment was installed by a licensed contractor, or inspected by the city.
Any thoughts on that?
Thanks!!
Any thoughts on that?
Thanks!!
#26
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 386
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
My aprilaire unit came with warranty info that states from the manufacturer that the warranty is void unless installed by a professional. Dont know about the company that sold me mine, but it seems to be Aprilaire's stand on things.
#27
Many company are like that if their product was sold on line, and the on line dealer should stand behind it since they sold it to the home owners. I know lot of online dealer says they will stand by it...
I know a few people gave me a hard time for not putting in my own furnace, I said I want to be dang sure I got warranty on it, and as well my 10 year parts and labor from Trane. Trane was there for me 3 years ago when I had a crack in my header, and got a brand new furnace out of it.
#28
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 386
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
In their defense, I can't say as I blame them. I more or less muddled through installing my own. I mean, it wasn't that hard or anything, mind you... but I could have easily screwed it up in any number of places if I didn't do a LOT of reading first. Even then, I found my way here for one small question.
Again, thanks for that, Jay.
-Kirk
Again, thanks for that, Jay.
-Kirk