Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

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Old 01-17-09, 03:14 PM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

3 weeks ago, I had a local contractor install the 12 gallon version of the honeywell trusteam humidifier system. Mine has the vision iaq humidistat, the small wiring panel and the outdoor temperature sensor.

I have had nothing but issues. first, the outdoor temperature was always off - way off - about 10 degrees off. then the installer determined that they were using the wrong temperature sensor. a change to the correct sensor fixed it.

the unit is configured to run independent of the heating system and turns on the fan automatically. for 3 weeks now (?!), my system has been running non-stop and the humidity in the house is barely above 29% relative humidity! the vendor has been here 4 times - looked over everything and checked everything and still we cant get the darn thing to work! my house is just about 5k sq ft. with hard wood floors on the first level. but i cant imagine that this thing has to run that long just to bring the humidity in the house to the 50% i set it for.

even my old aprilaire unit could keep a 45% humidity level with no effort at all. what could be going on here? I am at the point of ripping it out and going back to my aprilaire unit. my house is new (4 yrs old).

any ideas?
 
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Old 01-17-09, 09:53 PM
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Setting RH of 50% seems too high for winter temperature.

You may also want to check for leaks of your house through windows, doors, etc. Do you have a ventilator or bath fan running all the time?
 
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Old 01-18-09, 06:11 AM
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Similar problem- possible alternative?

I think you're doomed... I just finished installing a 12-gallon TrueSteam in a 2400 sq ft house, and it is running non-stop also. I can't see 5000 sq ft working with only one unit- page 22 of the manual says "3000+" sq ft for a tight house. My house is not as tight as I thought- an "average" house should allow a 12 gallon unit to run up to 2500 sq ft, but I think that a dog that can't decide if it wants to go in our out, kids leaving the door open, uninsulated bumpout roofs, etc, all seem to add up pretty quick. It ran for 4 days straight trying to get to 45% (a fine upper limit as long as you have an outdoor temp sensor) until the temps dropped and windows were condensing- I had to increase the frost protection which made it turn off for a while. It had reached maybe 37% before it had to drop back; it may have gotten to 40 but I'm skeptical.

I'm giving very serious thought to moving my TrueSteam off the duct, putting my old unpowered flow-through Aprilaire back on the duct, and installing the TrueSteam remotely (so it injects downstream of the Aprilaire). I've schemed up a little circuit consisting of the old 24 VAC transformer and two relays that would allow one TrueIAQ humidity signal to operate both humidifiers, despite the fact that one wants to control the fan and the other can only operate with the heat AND fan on. I think this would work great- the flow-through Aprilaire would remove the dryness from the incoming heat, while the TrueSteam would top off the humidity to keep my sinuses happy without blowing cold humid air at me all day and running up my electric bill.

Anyway, I'm afraid that the 12 GPD unit will be incapable of keeping your house at any decent humidity level by itself. Even if you had two of them, it had better be a very tight house, or you'll be in my boat. The problem with the TrueSteam seems to be that if it is marginally sized, it tries to run constantly to keep up, which can't be good for the unit (it gets HOT!), the electric bill ($$$), or anyone who sits near the vents (brrrr!).

Other possibilities I'd considered were installing another TrueSteam (more electric bill, still blows cold air), Swapping it for a bigger AutoFlo steam unit (but I just bought the TrueSteam!), wishing someone sold a residential gas-fired steam humidifier (probably lots of $$$, requires pro installation). I like the possibility of the "flow-through + TrueSteam"- low maintenance, low energy consumption, doesn't make me get rid of anything I had already bought. If I decide to give it a try, I'll post results here, but I should probably give it another week or so without frost protection kickbacks without messing with anything to see if things improve- I've heard that it can take that long to purge the humidity out of our wood floors, etc.
 
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Old 01-18-09, 11:21 AM
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So in essence this is even worse than the Aprilaire 700 system i had. I thought the whole idea was that it is a better system which saves money by using less water. however, if it achieves that by running constantly and incurring higher electricity costs in the process, this negates all its benefits.

I am surprised that the 12 gallon cant cover a 5k sq ft. house. so what is the maximum coverage for the 12 gallon?

My house does have a few leaks, but nothing to worry about.

Very disappointed .......
 
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Old 01-18-09, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by awong1 View Post
Setting RH of 50% seems too high for winter temperature.

You may also want to check for leaks of your house through windows, doors, etc. Do you have a ventilator or bath fan running all the time?
what is the optimal settings for winter temperature ( like 67 - 69 indoors) to protect hardwood floors e.t.c ?
 
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Old 01-18-09, 12:50 PM
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Depends on the outside temperature. Below is a guideline

Outdoor temperature and RH setting
-20F - 15%
-10F - 20%
0F - 25%
10F - 30%
20F - 35%
>20F - 40%

In general, a steam humidifier is more efficient than a flow through unit when you consider the amount of heat required by the furance and hot water wasted. I am surprised that your flow through can achieve 45%RH. May be you are using a different humidity sensor to take the reading or just over ventilating your house with the TrueSTEAM running all the time.
 
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Old 01-18-09, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
I am surprised that the 12 gallon cant cover a 5k sq ft. house. so what is the maximum coverage for the 12 gallon?
It looks like 3000 Sq. ft with a tight house (the install manual that your contractor got shows this on pg 1- see it at http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...69-2036EFS.pdf). And, reading between the lines in all the product literature, it seems that this is only if it runs 24 hours a day, there is 70% RH outside, and it will peak at 35% RH inside. If you only want it to run, say, 6 hours/day; I suppose they would be 1/4 of the "rated" GPD, or 3 GPD...! I think that they should be more clear that these ratings require the unit to operate 24/7, which no sane person would want to do.

This other Honeywell document seems to say that 5000 sq ft with 8 ft ceilings would require 17.2 gallons/day if it were truly tight: http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/50-1066.pdf If you're being optimistic (like I was) and it's really an average house, you'd need a massive 28.6 GPD!

For the maximum humidity you should consider, I like slide 20 of this paper: http://tc112.ashraetcs.org/programs/..._53_Schell.pdf

This shows that you can be pretty safe if you keep humidity below 40% or 45% in the winter with reasonable indoor temps. 50% is starting to get too close to possible mold spore release for me.

Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
Very disappointed .......
You and me both! But if your installer sized the unit, they are responsible for it being too small- the ratings are on page 1 of their manual. Maybe you can talk them into installing another 12 GPD unit, assuming you pay for the unit- that would seem like a reasonable compromise. I presume they would need some sort of isolation on the "HUM" wiring since it seems to be powered by the humidifier, and you wouldn't want power from one going into the other. This is why I'm considering using my pass-thru in conjunction with the TrueSteam- I don't want it running 24/7 just to keep humidity at 35%! But that requires some more complex isolation...
 

Last edited by kwsilb; 01-18-09 at 01:08 PM. Reason: clarifying
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Old 01-19-09, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by awong1 View Post
Depends on the outside temperature. Below is a guideline

Outdoor temperature and RH setting
-20F - 15%
-10F - 20%
0F - 25%
10F - 30%
20F - 35%
>20F - 40%

In general, a steam humidifier is more efficient than a flow through unit when you consider the amount of heat required by the furance and hot water wasted. I am surprised that your flow through can achieve 45%RH. May be you are using a different humidity sensor to take the reading or just over ventilating your house with the TrueSTEAM running all the time.

is the trusteam unit automatically set to stay within these ranges? for instance, my humidity level has jumped to 40% since yesterday, however outside temperatures have changed that much as well. I wonder if the unit is actually working, because last week, I tunrned it off for about 6 hours and the humidity level didint drop or change - almost like the humidifier had no effect whether its on or off. So i am thinking the current jump is probably due to warming outside temperatures and not the work of the humidifier.

I just checked it before posting this message - its showing 41% humidity and the setpoint ( which I dropped from 50% to 40 % after reading here that 50% is too high) is still 40%. The fan is still on! Isnt it supposed to stop when it hits the setpoint? i have option 374 set to 1.

thanks for this info.
 
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Old 01-19-09, 07:48 PM
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Is the "FAN" display showing Auto, On or Circ?

I have mine at 40% frost guard at 5.

The humidity will lower when the temps gets colder outside, The Frost Guard is doing it's job to keep the level lower and prevent the windows from getting heavly wet from the humidity.

When we had -20˚ last week, the house was down around 23%. we also have hardwood floor in our kitchen/dining area, and have not had any issues with the floor spliting open when it go that low.
 
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Old 01-19-09, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
is the trusteam unit automatically set to stay within these ranges? for instance, my humidity level has jumped to 40% since yesterday, however outside temperatures have changed that much as well. I wonder if the unit is actually working, because last week, I tunrned it off for about 6 hours and the humidity level didint drop or change - almost like the humidifier had no effect whether its on or off. So i am thinking the current jump is probably due to warming outside temperatures and not the work of the humidifier.
The unit will run according to the humidity setpoint along with the frost protection setting if you enabled this feature. The reason why your humidity level increased in the last couple days probably because of both the increased outside temperature and the work of the humidifier.

Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
I just checked it before posting this message - its showing 41% humidity and the setpoint ( which I dropped from 50% to 40 % after reading here that 50% is too high) is still 40%. The fan is still on! Isnt it supposed to stop when it hits the setpoint? i have option 374 set to 1.

thanks for this info.
Check your fan setting as Jay suggested.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Is the "FAN" display showing Auto, On or Circ?

I have mine at 40% frost guard at 5.

The humidity will lower when the temps gets colder outside, The Frost Guard is doing it's job to keep the level lower and prevent the windows from getting heavly wet from the humidity.

When we had -20˚ last week, the house was down around 23%. we also have hardwood floor in our kitchen/dining area, and have not had any issues with the floor spliting open when it go that low.
My fan is set to "auto" and the frost guard is enabled and set to 10. But still, as of this morning, my humidity is 34%. the fan never stopped running.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 10:43 AM
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o.k - It seems the contractor agrees that this might be a capacity issue - the 12 gallon TruSteam is not powerful enough to cover a house 5 k sq ft. He is now recommending the autoflow s2020 - Model Autoflo S2000 and S2020 STEAM | Air Connect-Your Heating and Air Conditioning Parts Supplier

what is the verdict on this? What is the quality of this unit vs. the TruSteam ? Any Issues I should be aware of?
 
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Old 01-21-09, 01:38 PM
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The Autoflo has been around, and are expensive, so I'd go for it since the TS is not big enough for your home.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
The Autoflo has been around, and are expensive, so I'd go for it since the TS is not big enough for your home.
Besides cost, is it reliable? troublefree? and what is the quality ?
 
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Old 01-21-09, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
So in essence this is even worse than the Aprilaire 700 system i had.
Hi Vacquah,
Could you explain a little bit about why you didn't like the Aprilaire 700? I had considered it as well as the Aprilaire 600 for my humidification needs.

I had a 12 gallon installed in my 4000sq/ft house and I agree with pretty much everything kwsilb says. However I had an energy audit done and my house is very tight so the Unit has no problem getting my RH up to 35% and struggles a little, but is able to reach and maintain 40% without running constantly. I have my IAQ settings at 40% and frost protection at 5. So far I am happy with its performance.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dgbehrends View Post
Hi Vacquah,
Could you explain a little bit about why you didn't like the Aprilaire 700? I had considered it as well as the Aprilaire 600 for my humidification needs.
.
It worked pretty well only on the first level of the house - however on the second level with the bedrooms, it was bone dry even though the humidity on the first level was 40%. Maybe this is due to the fact that the bedrooms was powered by another hvac /zone system - so the heat being pumped out had no humidity at all.

As you have noted, it has no problems maintaining the 40% humidity levels. it also run only when the heat was on.

Hence my disappointment with the trusteam system. I switched to it thinking it will provide much more coverage and alleviate my problems on the second level of the house. Maybe, I should have kept the Aprilaire and also installed the TruSteam as a remote unit tying into the second zone hvac system.

Also note that the Aprilaire uses way more water than the trusteam, by design ..
 
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Old 01-21-09, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
It worked pretty well only on the first level of the house - however on the second level with the bedrooms, it was bone dry even though the humidity on the first level was 40%. Maybe this is due to the fact that the bedrooms was powered by another hvac /zone system - so the heat being pumped out had no humidity at all.

As you have noted, it has no problems maintaining the 40% humidity levels. it also run only when the heat was on.

Hence my disappointment with the trusteam system. I switched to it thinking it will provide much more coverage and alleviate my problems on the second level of the house. Maybe, I should have kept the Aprilaire and also installed the TruSteam as a remote unit tying into the second zone hvac system.

Also note that the Aprilaire uses way more water than the trusteam, by design ..
I have a 2 story home and it has 2 zones, mainfloor+basement and upstairs where the bedrooms are. The humidity sensor is on the main floor where my hardwood floors are. When the main floor zone has a call for humidity both my zones open up and both the mainfloor+basement and the upstairs/bedrooms get humidity regardless of what my RH is in the bedrooms. This seems to work well and keeps the RH upstairs a little higher due to showers and such so I don't have an issue with it.

It sounds like you need to add a humidifier to your 2nd HVAC/system. And what you suggest might be a good solution for you.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dgbehrends View Post
When the main floor zone has a call for humidity both my zones open up and both the mainfloor+basement and the upstairs/bedrooms get humidity regardless of what my RH is in the bedrooms. This seems to work well and keeps the RH upstairs a little higher due to showers and such so I don't have an issue with it.
.
Does your second zone have a separate humidifer which is controlled by signals from the mainfloor humidistat? do you have 2 humidifiers or one?
 
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Old 01-21-09, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
Does your second zone have a separate humidifer which is controlled by signals from the mainfloor humidistat? do you have 2 humidifiers or one?
I have one 12gallon TrueSteam installed on the supply side of my Bryant Plus 90 furnace. The supply splits into 2 zones, one that services the main floor and basement (unfinished) and the second which services the upstairs (4 bdrms and 2 baths). I hired a local contractor to do put in an Envirazone package which included a vision pro IAQ for each zone, 2 zone dampers to control air flow to the zones, an outdoor temp sensor, and a zone board that controls the system. So I have 1 vision pro stat on the main floor and one in the upstairs. The two stats will call for heat and cool independently and the zone dampers will route the warm/cool air accordingly. For humidity and ventilation only the main floor stat controls that. I'm not sure why humidity couldn't have been control separately like temperature, but I have been told that only one of my vision pro IAQ stats can control it.

Your situation seems quite different because you have two heat sources. With completely independent stats I assume. I would think you would want a humidifier to compliment each heat source.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by vacquah View Post
Besides cost, is it reliable? troublefree? and what is the quality ?
I'd say they are good, I only been around one of them years ago, and if I recalled, the heating coil was scaled up bad from hard water, so I had to clean it out with Lime-Away.

I've seen a few guys say they are happy with them on another board.
 
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Old 01-21-09, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
I'd say they are good, I only been around one of them years ago, and if I recalled, the heating coil was scaled up bad from hard water, so I had to clean it out with Lime-Away.

I've seen a few guys say they are happy with them on another board.
I thought the autoflo s2020 was a self draining unit and shouldnt have a scaling problem?

does the TruSteam have this scaling problem? is there anything that can be done to prevent this on the autoflow ? can you point me to the other board where users have reviewed the autoflow? Thanks!
 
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Old 01-22-09, 05:20 AM
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Auto-Flushing will get rid of the gunk that naturally collects when you leave water standing; they both do that, and if they didn't, things would get disastrous pretty quickly. But heating elements tend to build up mineral deposit "shells" that can reduce the heat transfer from the element to the water, reducing the effectiveness of the unit over time.

I've seen it claimed that the TrueSteam heating element has a higher-than-normal thermal expansion coefficient, which causes the element to expand more when it gets hot and contract more when it gets cold, which breaks up this shell so it can get flushed down the drain. If this is true, it would seem that the periodic maintenance for a TrueSteam would not need to include a cleaning of the coil with something like Lime-Away or CLR Calcium Lime Remover.

Being a skeptical engineer during the day, however, I looked up the thermal coefficient of Incoloy 600, and it doesn't seem much higher than typical. But maybe the alloy is more heat-resistant, so the temperature can increase higher than on other steam units, allowing the greater overall expansion...? Maybe this explains why the tank gets so hot on the Truesteam? Hard to say.

But regardless, a periodic cleaning of the coils of a conventional unit would probably not be too big a price to pay to get decent humidity in the house...
 
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Old 01-22-09, 07:30 AM
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I've got my Truesteam set to flush every 10 hours. It doesn't hold much water so flushing this often isn't a big waste. The manual says an annual cleaning is necessary, and they state a good wipe down is sufficient. The Truesteam requires a prefilter to get rid of crud in the water supply and I think that would have the most effect at keeping the unit clean. Honeywell recommends changing this yearly. I'm going to monitor my unit and change it according to need.
 
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Old 03-17-09, 12:39 PM
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TrueSteam Problems

If you combine issues listed throughout they will equal to the issues I am having with the TrueSteam.

My house is 2 years old. Foam insulated rach (3k sq ft basement and 3k sq ft first floor). Very quick easy to heat and cool but impossible to humidify, well with TrueSteam.

I had 2 basic AprilAire units, pretty loud, but hardly worked to humidify the house.

To my doom, I was suggested to upgrade, save water and imrpove the overall humidification picture. This is what I got:

1. The two 12 gallon TrueSteam hardly ever stop.
2. My electric bill compared to last year have almost doubled.
3. 20% to 30% humidity is reached easily but from 30% and higher it takes a very long time.
4. If the humidity is set to 30% with Frost at 3 and the temperature outside is 40, the Vision IQ PRo from Honeywell continues to request humidity even after it has reached 33%.

I have tried all combinations to get the Vision IQ Pro thermostat to the right setting so that it maintains the proper levels...unfortunatelly there is no peace of mind with this faulty equipment.

I paid a lot of money to upgrade to this 'great' equipment and to set it and forget it...instead I got exactly the opposite. Much higher bills, constant cold air coming through the vents, wear and tear of the equipment and absolutely NO peace of mind. I feel cheated with all the time and money vested into it.

Honeywell reps have visited my house twice and they are willing to go to extra measures to remedy but I am loosing hope that they can find a solution.
 
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Old 03-17-09, 01:38 PM
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Dank49,

You sound like you might be desperate enough to try my setup- I'm running a TrueSteam in conjunction with a flowthrough (you'd need one on each circuit I presume). I think it's far better than having unit of them by itself.

Details here:
http://forum.doityourself.com/humidi...installed.html.

Good luck!
 
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Old 03-17-09, 09:39 PM
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You mentioned you have foam for insulation in your walls, but that doesn't mean your house is air tight. A few things to consider, do you have mechanical ventilation and is it bringing in the right amount of fresh air. To know this you would need to know how much cold dry air is infiltrating your house and making the humidity so low in the first place. I think having a blower door test done would go a long way to understanding how to size the humidifier(s) for your home.

I just cleaned my Truesteam see this thread for details
http://forum.doityourself.com/humidi...-cleaning.html
 
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Old 03-17-09, 10:36 PM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

kwsilb, Thank you for your suggestion.

dgbehrends, You bring up a very good point, that I've also thought about. I do have an ERV attached to each furnace. The ERV's run approximatelly 17 minutes every hour. There is redundancy in bringing in fresh unhumified air and exausting out humidified air. While it sounds impossible to calculate the math behind it, It probably should not cause the 12 gallon TrueSteam to almost constantly run.

The final potentially missing piece is that the floor is heated so that the furnace heat is never used.

Thanks,
 
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Old 03-18-09, 11:56 AM
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The math isn't too bad. I've done calculations on my house, and posted in another forum. Have you tried turning your ERVs off for a few days to see how the truesteam's perform?
 
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Old 03-18-09, 10:44 PM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

Yes, I was going to actually disconect the ERV in/out ducts, close off the opennings, turn off the ERV's and see what the TrueSteam does. If that turns out to be the issue, any idea what the solution is? Could it be potentially undersized ductwork?

Thanks,
 
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Old 03-19-09, 06:52 AM
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I wouldn't go that far as removing the duct off the HRV, just turn it off.
 
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Old 03-19-09, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
I wouldn't go that far as removing the duct off the HRV, just turn it off.
Yep, do what Jay says. It should be designed to prevent air flow when off. What model are your ERVs?

To answer your other question, assuming you can't run your ERVs less than 17mins per hour, you could put a damper in line with your intake and outtake to reduce the effective cfm for each ERV and have them balanced. This would reduce the fresh/dry air they are bringing in. The goal would be to keep your overall ACH (air changes per hour) at .35 but not too much more than that. To know how much air infiltration you have that contributes to your ACH you would need a blower door test. My util company does them for $50.
 
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Old 03-25-09, 09:00 AM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

I appreciate your suggestion.

Well, I've narrowed it down to the following issues. My ERV's are: RenewAire, but everything else is Honeywell.

1. I turned off the ERV. Get the humidifier to activate the fan. As it was running I placed a paper towel on the ERV intake on the outside of the house. So much fress air was being pulled in that the paper towel wanted to get sucked in. So what's happening is that outdoor air is being pulled in and humidified.

2. The algorithm within the VisionPRO IQ thermostat does not know when to stop. I suspect that it tries to get smart, but with that it gives me no control over it. Basically, I set the humidity to 30% at Frost 3, outdoor temperature at 45%, but the thermostat keeps requesting humidity after it has reached 33%. I've tried all types of combinations and frost settings and I still get the same result.

3. When I request humidity through the VisionPro IQ, the fan starts right away even though the TrueSteam light does not indicate that it is 'humidifying' since the water has not reached the boiling point yet. Perhaps this is how it's supposed to work, but I thought I was told otherwise.

Thanks,
 
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Old 03-30-09, 02:16 PM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

Since the TrueSteam was pulling in fresh air, I did close off in/out takes for the ERV to be a 100% sure they aren't the cause of the problem. Here are the results of my test:

- I closed off the in/out takes on the furnace ducts.
- Turned off the ERV.
- At 3:30 pm
- Turned up the request for humidity to 45%
- Set Frost to 4
- Inside humidity is at: 33%
- Outside temp is at: 35 degrees
--------------------------------------
The results are:
5pm humidity reached 36% - humidifier and fan still running
6pm humidity at 36% - humidifier and fan still running
7pm humidity at 36% - humidifier and fan still running
8pm humidity at 36% - humidifier and fan still running
9pm humidity at 36% - humidifier and fan still running
10pm humidity at 36% - humidifier and fan still running
--------------------------------------
At 10 pm I turned it off because I did not feel like wasting any more money as during this constant run time the unit uses about 1.1 KWh per hour. So the end result is that my entire 4,000 sq. energy efficient home uses less electricty than these 2 ridiculous units.

One important thing to note is that hot water was constanty discharging through the rubber hose. I checked every 30 minutes and the rubber discharge line was constantly really hot and the water was coming through every time I checked.

At this point I am hugely frustrated. All points to TrueSteam as being an item released to the market without proper testing. The units are quite expensive and they just continue to suck more money and not do their job.
 
  #34  
Old 03-30-09, 06:21 PM
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One important thing to note is that hot water was constanty discharging through the rubber hose. I checked every 30 minutes and the rubber discharge line was constantly really hot and the water was coming through every time I checked.
That alone sounds pretty wrong- that drain is not a continuous drain like a flow-through unit; it should only drain water every once in a while to flush... Have you ever had the water sensors disconnected? It almost sounds like there is something wrong with the drain valve or sensors. Did you say you have two and they both act this way? And that someone from Honeywell actually came out and observed the humidifier(s) running?

Something doesn't quite add up here. Anyway, can you throw a manually-operated valve in the drain line for debugging? (i.e. to turn it off for a bit)
 

Last edited by kwsilb; 03-30-09 at 06:23 PM. Reason: can't get quotey thing working! (operator error)
  #35  
Old 03-30-09, 09:27 PM
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10 hour default for tank cleaning

Unless the installer changed the default, these units will discharge their water tank every 10 hours as a self clean procedure. Other than that you should not see any water coming out of the drain hose. I'm wondering if the drain hose connection to the unit is not solid or maybe the valves aren't set to the off position?
 
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Old 03-30-09, 09:30 PM
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dank49,

Are your TrueSTEAMS remote installations (with a remote hose)? If so, make sure no kinks or restrictions of the hose as they will cause the water overflow through the drain hose. If they are not remote installations, then you should check the drain valve if it was stuck by some sediments that caused it to leak. You can just clean the seat of the drain valve if this is the case.
 
  #37  
Old 03-31-09, 01:53 PM
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Issues with Honeywell TruSteam

The units are installed right on the duct above the heat exchanger. There are no kinks in the lines as double checked by myself, Honeywell and the HVAC installer. The units were installed on January 20th, 2009. So they are as new as they get.

I did this extensive test on one of the units, but will follow up with the other. However, through the previous tests even the other unit runs almost all the time.

Thank you for your suggestions:

- I will check the drain, the drain valves and sensors.

Honeywell (2 different reps) was over twice. The first time they looked over everything and noticed no apparent reason for the humidifiers running all the time. The second time the suggestion was to upgrade from 9 to 12 gallon units ... which did very little in terms of run time. They did not witness my last test where I checked it every 30 minutes for almost 7 hours.
 
  #38  
Old 04-10-09, 02:29 PM
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i don't have as big a house as many of you but i find mine works pretty well up in Canada. I have the humidistat wired to the return air duct just upstream of the furnace and the Truesteam injects downstream of the fan. I don't bother trying to mess with predicting temperatures. If the windows frost up in the winter, I turn it down 10%. If it warms up, then I raise the setting. Today it's 15C outside and I have it at 50%.

The cons - so far, it seems like the furnace fan is on a lot. But I don't check it too often and the clean tank light was on today. So it probably wasn't running too efficiently. I just spent a couple hours using CLR to clean the elements. Should have read some of the threads about the elements self-cleaning - CRAP. that's why there was so much crap in the tank. The deposits just keep cracking off. I'm gonna keep a note on how often it turns on now. But after cleaning it, I set it at 50% humidity. It ran for about 15min then turned off. So that's better than some of you with constant blowing. $$$ in electricity!

Overall I still think it's a good unit. The humidity is definitely improved, and even though the electric bills are a little higher, I'm ok with it knowing that the fan needs to run a little more, even when not heating.
 
  #39  
Old 04-15-09, 01:14 PM
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so I guess I was a liar. It seems that since I've raised the humidity setting from less than 20% in the winter to 40-50% now that it's spring, the fan and Truesteam seem to be on way more than dormant. My electricity bill is gonna be huge. I'm not sure what to do... I'm almost thinking that everything in my house is slowly sucking in moisture and that's why it's been on all the time, and eventually equilibrium will be met. But who knows? Does anyone have any advice? Our house is only 2100 sq ft over 3 floors and a basement. Mostly hardwood except the basement.
 
  #40  
Old 04-15-09, 01:37 PM
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Yeah going from 20% to 40% will take awhile with all that hardwood floors.

I'd say shut it off for the season, spring is here.
 
 

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