Humdifier solenoid valve adjustment

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Old 01-08-10, 05:50 PM
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Humdifier solenoid valve adjustment

I have a Honeywell by-pass flow through humidifier. Water is flowing through whenever the unit is on, rather the furnace is operating or not. The slotted screw in the soleniod will not turn. Isn't this a valve adjustment screw? Could the screw be "frozen" from deposits enough though water is circulating through it?
 
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Old 01-09-10, 08:14 AM
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Sounds like it's not wired up right.

Or the valve is stuck. You know if you had this issue since day oen or just started to stick on all the time?

The valve should cycle on and off with the furnace.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 08:28 AM
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Installed last February, and it trickled last year. Now I am getting more flow all the time. Checked the wiring diagram, and it appears I may have screwed up. I will try again and see if that is it. Thanks for your time. I will return with the results.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 08:33 AM
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Do you know if the valve is getting 24 volts when the furnace is not running?
 
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Old 01-09-10, 09:15 AM
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I can feel it vibrate when the electricity is on. I just tried rewiring and am becoming confused because the wiring diagram shows one lead wire, but the wires that came with this are two lead, red and white. Beginning to believe this may be the problem. When I wired the soleniod directly to transformer with two leads the soleniod opened while the control was in the off position, but closed when I moved it to on.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 10:01 AM
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You have a relay in line of the wire or is it wired to the furnace?






This is a basic wire. This is wired to a furnace that has 24 volt HUM hook up with out need of the transformer. Do not wire it up till I know what you got for sure.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 10:40 AM
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It has a transformer, which leads to controler, controler to sail switch. Transformer to solenoid, solenoid to sail switch. Sail swicth has a common pole, open pole, and close pole.Hope this helps.
 
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Old 01-09-10, 09:04 PM
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Should be wired like this.


The A50 in my drawing will be your sail switch.

You use Com and N/Open on the sail switch.

What is your make and model of the furnace? YOu might be able to get away from the sail switch.
 
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Old 01-10-10, 11:23 AM
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I do appreciate the time you have put into helping me. Last night I came across a post for a Honey HE260A that you assisted with in November 2007. That is the same humidifier that I have. The post sent a wiring diagram, pretty much looks like yours. I am out of town until Friday, but will be back to work on this Saturday. Again thanks for the help, and I will let you know if we worked it out this next weekend.
 
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Old 01-10-10, 09:11 PM
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Sounds good.

You have a great week, and have a safe trip.
 
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Old 01-15-10, 05:13 PM
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Hello Jay,
Hope you had a pleasant week. You asked about my furnace, I have a Carrier 58GP, GS probably installed 1987. The sail switch is already installed, and I can check it for dirt build up that may be keeping the switch closed after I get this wired correctly. My question is for your diagram you sent. If I have this right: one line from transformer to sail switch common pole, then one line from sail switch normally open pole to humidistat, then one line from humidistat to valve, then one line from valve to transformer. I discovered another problem; I believe I burnt the transformer at some point because of the incorrect wiring. The transformer was a plug in 24v 10av. I can not find a replacement and have been told a 24v 20av wired transformer is acceptable. What is your opinion?
 
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Old 01-15-10, 07:07 PM
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You read the diagram correct.

Plug in type is not used much.. You can use the hard wired one like for door bells. They are 24 volts as well.

Since you are getting a new transformer, you can wire it to the EAC1 and EAC2 on your board. If we do that, we won't need the sail switch any more.
 
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Old 01-15-10, 07:40 PM
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Interesting, I may do that. I see the EAC1 and EAC2 in the book from the furnace, I will check to see how much room I will have to instill the transformer. I was planning on attaching it to the outlet box for the switch on the side of the furnace. Figured I would splice into the power line where the switch is connected to the power line into the control panel. Well, I will see what I can get done tomorrow. Thank you.
 
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Old 01-16-10, 09:26 AM
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I was thinking if I wire the transformer to EAC 1 and 2, will the transformer only get power when the furance is on, or will it always be energized? Then eliminate the sail switch.
 

Last edited by mcs238; 01-16-10 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 01-16-10, 05:57 PM
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EAC will power up any time the blower runs in heating or cooling, or fan ON mode. So, the sail switch won't be needed.

Just when comes spring, turn the humidistat off.
 
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Old 01-16-10, 08:59 PM
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I did wire to the control panel, left out the sail switch and everything is working like you said it would. I have noted on my calendar to close down the system in May when I change the filter. Thank you again for your time, would not have set it up this way without you. I believe this is the way to go. Have a safe and prosperous new year.
 
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Old 01-17-10, 08:57 PM
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Glad to help, and if anything else is needed, let us know!
 
 

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