Lennox Healthy Climate WB2-12A wiring

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Old 02-13-10, 05:47 PM
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Lennox Healthy Climate WB2-12A wiring

We had a Lennox Healthy Climate WB2-12A whole house humidifier added to our Westinghouse heat pump over two years ago and have had problems from day one. I will not bore you with all the misfortune but cut to the prime reason for writing- the wiring.
Initially the installer had the White wire (please see photo) going to the 'C' terminal and the red wire going to the 'O' terminal but the humidifier ran all the time then. Last year I called the installer back and made it clear I only wanted the humidifier to run when the unit called for heat and the fan was running. They changed the red lead to the 'W1' terminal. I noticed humidity level was quite low in the house and discovered the humidifier ran only when AUX heat was called for- not cool.
So I decided to try a few things myself and about one month ago established the current set up which seems to work like a charm. Humidifier runs whenever the unit calls for heat and the blower fan is running. I just want to make sure there is no potential electrical downside to keeping the white lead at the 'C' terminal and red, as I've arranged it, at the 'Y' terminal.
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Again, please see photo for details.
 
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Old 02-16-10, 05:46 AM
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You are fine with that hook up. Come cooling time, turn off the humidistat so you are not running the humidifier in the summer.

Question for you, what is the make/model of your thermostat? And do you have extra wire in the wall for hook up if needed?
 
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Old 02-18-10, 03:35 PM
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Humidistat

The humidistat is also a Healthy Climate, newer model installed last year. The guts of the control are from DNAgroup.
I have uploaded a photo of the humidistat.

The solenoid on top of the humidifier has two yellow wires. The installers had the white and red wires in Described in first post going in to return plenum, with red wire going to one terminal on humidistat and white wire joining second set of red white wires that came from other terminal on humidistat with red connected to that terminal and then that set of red and white leading over to blower/fan terminal as described in first post. All wiring is within the return plenum except for what leads over to terminal in blower housing so I guess that is a long winded way of saying I do not have extra wiring in the wall. Did you have something else in mind? or did I totally misinterpret?
Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-18-10, 03:42 PM
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Oops

So sorry, now that I read your post once again, I see I was way off.
The Thermostat is a Honeywell VisionPRO TH8321U series and I am not sure if I have extra wiring in the wall. I would I determine that? What were you thinking? Getting something set up with temp and/or humidity sensor so it is hooked right in and more automatic?
Sorry for the unnecessary post.
And thanks again.
 
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Old 02-18-10, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by emad25 View Post
I am not sure if I have extra wiring in the wall. I would I determine that?
Pop the t-stat off the wall, and see if there's more wire behind it, and also same at the air handler.


What were you thinking?
Want to take an advantage of the staging of the Aux heat. Right now, Your W1 and W2 are jumpred together, and I'm guessing at the t-stat, Aux and E is jumpred together as well.

If we have an extra wire, then we can wire up Aux-W1 by itself, and E-W2 as well

Getting something set up with temp and/or humidity sensor so it is hooked right in and more automatic?
Is the outdoor sensor is hooke dup?
 
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Old 02-19-10, 05:21 PM
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extra wiring

There is an extra blue wire behind the T-stat that is also present in the air handler. However, I did not see a jumper on AUX and E within the T-stat but on the other side R-RC was jumpered. Otherwise there is simply a white wire at W2 on the same side where AUX and E are located.
What will happen with staging of AUX heat as you describe? Any idea why the installers would not have done that?
I believe the outdoor sensor is NOT hooked up.
Thanks again for all your thoughts and ideas. I am especially thankful to know that how I have the humidifier set up is ok.
 
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Old 02-19-10, 08:59 PM
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Where is the white wire hooked up at the t-stat?

Also, can you give me the advance settings from the t-stat, and I can see how it's set up as well.

If the outdoor sensor (should read outside temp) should be hooked up to SEN. If not, you can leave it off or if you want you can fish a new set a wire, and order a sensor for outside, and you can see what's the temp is outside, and lock out the Aux heat when it's not really needed.
 
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Old 02-21-10, 07:10 AM
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White wire

The white wire is connected to W2.
Here is a photo of what it looks like when I pop off the T-Stat.

Sorry for my ignorance but I am not sure what is meant by advance settings of the T-Stat.
According to the manual Advance Functions simply include date, time, clock, Daylight Savings time settings in addition to temp format, filter reminders, UV lamp change reminder and humidifier pad change reminder but that's about it.
Thanks again for all your help.
Here is also a pic of what I call the terminal in the air handler- not sure if it is of any use for what you are looking for.

Ed
 
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Old 02-21-10, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by emad25 View Post
The white wire is connected to W2.
Ok, on the Outside letters are HP, so you are hooked up to Aux.


Here is a photo of what it looks like when I pop off the T-Stat.
It don't look like there's an extra wire in the wall?

According to the manual Advance Functions simply include date, time, clock, Daylight Savings time settings in addition to temp format, filter reminders, UV lamp change reminder and humidifier pad change reminder but that's about it.
Look at the installer manual. Go to "Installer Set up" menu on page 6.



Here is also a pic of what I call the terminal in the air handler- not sure if it is of any use for what you are looking for.
I got the photo from you earier, but glad to see this.. What is the model # on the air handler? I want to check to make sure the dip switches are set up correct. Also need the model # on the unit outside.
 
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Old 02-22-10, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Ok, on the Outside letters are HP, so you are hooked up to Aux.



It don't look like there's an extra wire in the wall?

I realize the photo may be deceptive but that blue wire you see is not connected anywhere and is also present in the fan coil area


Look at the installer manual. Go to "Installer Set up" menu on page 6.

Sorry but I'm just not sure what I'm looking for here. I did not receive any installer manual with the new T-Stat (original T-Stat with unit went bad after one year and I was only given operators manual). Do you want me to go in to installer set up on the T-Stat and note what is already set? When I enter setup and compare with the link provided for installer menu everything looks set to defaults.
What else should I be looking for?





I got the photo from you earier, but glad to see this.. What is the model # on the air handler? I want to check to make sure the dip switches are set up correct. Also need the model # on the unit outside.
Model # for air handler is B3VM-048K-BB
The Outside unit is FT3BD-042K


Thanks again for all your help!
 
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Old 02-22-10, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by emad25 View Post
I realize the photo may be deceptive but that blue wire you see is not connected anywhere and is also present in the fan coil area
Ok, strip the blue wire enough to tuck under the E at the t-stat.

That blue wire goes to W2 at the air handler.

The white wire from Aux at the t-stat goes to W1 at the air handler.

Remove jumper. Wire that from the outdoor unit, that goes to W2 at the air handler.


Sorry but I'm just not sure what I'm looking for here.
I wanted to know what the t-stat is set up to and done correctly.

installer menu everything looks set to defaults.
They didn't set it up for a HP?

This what it should be set to.

120 to 160 you can figure out, let me know if you unsure.

170-7
180-1
190-0
200-0
220-2
240 to 270- 3 (not all will show)
280-1 (makes a great night light)

Rest you can figure out, again unsure, let me know.


Air handler dip switch setting.

1-off
2-on
3-on
4-off
5 and 6, Do you know what your back up heater KW is?
7-off
8-on
 
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Old 02-23-10, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Ok, strip the blue wire enough to tuck under the E at the t-stat.

That blue wire goes to W2 at the air handler.

The white wire from Aux at the t-stat goes to W1 at the air handler.

Remove jumper. Wire that from the outdoor unit, that goes to W2 at the air handler.
I'll work on this part at a later time, thanks for the recommendation.


I wanted to know what the t-stat is set up to and done correctly.


They didn't set it up for a HP?
My mistake. Looks like it is set up for HP

This what it should be set to.

120 to 160 you can figure out, let me know if you unsure.

170-7- yes it is set to 7
180-1- not visible
190-0
200-0
220-2- this one is set to 3. What will setting to 2 do for me?
240 to 270- 3 (not all will show)- These are set to 9 since I am total electric and do not have gas or oil heat.
280-1 (makes a great night light)

Rest you can figure out, again unsure, let me know.


Air handler dip switch setting.

1-off
2-on
3-on
4-off
5 and 6, Do you know what your back up heater KW is?
I do not know what back up heater KW is.
7-off
8-on
Will setting 7 & 8 the way you suggest be more energy efficient than the way I currently have them set? The original installers had 7&8 set to on 1, 1 and I went with Delay A.
Thanks again for all your help.
 
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Old 02-23-10, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by emad25 View Post
[B]
I'll work on this part at a later time, thanks for the recommendation.
I did some more reading last night, looks like all of the heat strips from this company is single stage. So skip of what I've told you to do for the rewire. The only thing the installer forgot to do is just add a jumper between Aux and E at the t-stat.

220-2- this one is set to 3. What will setting to 2 do for me?
Give the compressor a long run time, and it's better for it.

240 to 270- 3 (not all will show)- These are set to 9 since I am total electric and do not have gas or oil heat.
The t-stat don't know that it's not gas. 3 will make the heat strip run longer for better comfort. It will come on about 3 times an hour vs 9 times.

I do not know what back up heater KW is.
Look at the heater kit and see what the KW rating is.

Will setting 7 & 8 the way you suggest be more energy efficient than the way I currently have them set?
Both A and B are.

B is going to give you a colder coil in the summer and will do better on humidity removele.
 
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Old 02-23-10, 05:58 PM
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Thanks

Jay
Thanks for all your help.
I've made the changes recommended and will see how things go.
I do have a different question for you though.
Another HVAC guy recently told me I should never have had a by-pass humidifier installed on a heat pump. That the air never gets warm enough to really pull up the moisture. While what he said seems to make sense, I also had the feeling he was trying to sell me a Honeywell Steam humidifier. Any thoughts?
I simply asked the HVAC installer when we built the house to add a humidifier a year later after humidity level dropped to 20%. During coldest months here in PA. we get about 30-33% humidity despite having humidistat set at 45%
Thanks again. I appreciate you taking time out to help us out here.
Emad
 
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Old 02-23-10, 06:26 PM
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He's right, the air is not "hot enough" for the humidifier to work fully as it should.

Only thing you can do to help it is have hot water go to it. Make sure the home is tight.
 
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Old 02-23-10, 08:02 PM
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humidifier thanks

Thanks again.
I thought the house was tight. It's only three years old, we used house wrap, good windows. Guess maybe one of those energy audits would help see where there are leaks, if any.
Thanks again. I appreciate the help and ideas.
 
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Old 02-23-10, 09:11 PM
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The audit really helps!

I had ours done last Dec, and it was an eye opener for me! I figured was a few spot here and there... No, more!

They pointed out the area, and I tighten up the house.

The last couple of years, our humidifier ran about "60 days" run time, and this year so far, I am at 26 days.. Also, our gas bill has dropped.

Oh, our house was built in '68.
 
 

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