wiring of Honeywell HE360A to operate by blower operation

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Old 12-04-10, 03:34 PM
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wiring of Honeywell HE360A to operate by blower operation

I am replacing a GE humidifier with a Honeywell HE350A unit. One side of the 110v source connects directly to one terminal of the GE humidifier fan and water supply solenoid. The other side of the 110v source is connected to one wire of a two conductor cable coming from my Rheem furnace. The other wirre from this two conductor cable feeds the remaining terminals of the GE humidifier fan and solenoid. The existing Humidistat two conductor cable is fed into the furnace. Apparently the two conductor cable to the humidifier is connected to a relay in the furnace which is energized when the blower operates and the Humidistat contacts close. The GE hymidifier fan and solenoid are therefore 110v. Can i hook up the HE360A the same way (assuming the solenoid and fan in the HE360A are rated at 110v) and if so which wires do I use?
 
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Old 12-05-10, 06:53 AM
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The solenoid on the 360 is not 110v. it's 24 volts. I have not seen any help from a humidifier running with the fan only, I find that they run better when they run with the heat call.
 
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Old 12-05-10, 04:27 PM
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wiring of honeywell HE360 to operate by blower operation

Thank you Jay. I'll check to determine if the two coinductor cabke from the furnace is energised by the heat call. Asssuming it is, if I use the line cord on the HE360a to input 110V can you tell me which of the four leads from the humidifier should connect to the two conductor cable to energise the solenoid and fan?
 

Last edited by rmurphy; 12-05-10 at 04:28 PM. Reason: misspell
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Old 12-05-10, 05:50 PM
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If that line is 110v powered up when the furnace runs, then you can put an outlet box on that wire, and plug the 360 into that outlet. The two yellow wires just goes to the humidistat.
 
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Old 12-11-10, 01:49 PM
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Jay, you are a genius. This is exactly what I did for my 360. I put a single outlet with switch (for summer shut off) wired to the furnace board which supplies 110v when the fan kicks on. The Humidistat decides if humidity is needed and opens the water valve accordingly.
This set up was made from Jay's guidance.
 
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Old 12-11-10, 07:30 PM
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Problems with transformer on HE360A

I replaced my Aprilaire Humidifier with the HE360A.. Just an external humidistat, and the power connected to a switched outlet that is hot when the blower motor is running.

Thought it would be a simple swap and replace, but the first unit had the transformer fry after a very short time. Replaced it, and same problem, after an hour it stopped working... I have not troubleshot the second unit, but I am assuming the transformer in the humidifier is fried... Solenoid does not kick on, no water going through unit, and I believe the fan is not working.

Anyone else have this problem? Basically the 120 is connected to an outlet that is hot when the blower motor kicks on. The humidstat is connected across the two yellow wires... That's it, nothing else hooked up. Any ideas?

I re-used the control wires from the previous humidistat, and my friend suggested I should check that to make sure there isn't a short in it, but I am stumped.. I think it is highly improbable to get two bad transformers in a row, so something else must be going on...
 
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Old 12-11-10, 07:44 PM
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Check the wires, I know some of the aprilaire need low voltage wired into the control.

The two yellow wires should all alone going to the humidistat.

Also, check your outlet power to make sure that is around 120v.
 
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Old 12-11-10, 09:18 PM
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Jay,

Thanks for the reply. I have the humidstat connected directly to the two yellow wires coming out of the humidifier. The 120 is connected to a switched outlet... I checked that outlet, 0 when the blower motor is off, around 119V when it is on. No other connections, other than the old wires between the humidstat and the humidifier... they are separated by about 4 feet.
 
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Old 12-12-10, 05:34 AM
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Burt- Is there two brown wires on your unit? Make sure they are not touching/shorting together. Other than than I see nothing off hand that is wrong other than the transformer itself going out for some reason.
 
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Old 01-02-11, 09:24 PM
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Hoenywell HE360A Humidifier

I have this same problem. I purchased this unit yesterday about 3Pm. Returned home and started installing immediately. Simple install, install humidistat, install sail switch, wire these things in series and then wire to the two yellow wires coming off the unit.

I checked all my connections before plugging in the unit. First I checked the sail switch. Normally open, closed when blower came on. Then I checked the humidistat. Open when OFF, closed when blower kicked on. Then I wired the two pieces in series and checked them. Open when humidistat set to off or below 10 or blower not on, closed when all these things are reversed. should work great!

Wired the two remaining wires, one from the sail, one from the humidistat, into the two yellow wires as described on page 16, figure 12 of the install manual. this same wiring diagram can be found on the second half of the large instructions, not the template but the second page of the large installation instructions under figure 7. The first unit ran for about 30-60 minutes and then quit all together. no water, no fan, no nothing. So I checked the connections on the humidifier. The two unused red wires were dead. previously they had 24VAC, just like the yellow wires had 24VAC, now all four wires were dead and the fan was not spinning. So I checked the 115V plug. That still had power because the Radon vent fan that's plugged into the bottom outlet of that plug was still on, but I metered it anyways. Pulled the 115v plug out a little, used my Fluke multimeter and the blades were still reading 120V.

So I take the first unit back to Home Depot. They were very receptive and able to get me another unit. Long story short, I got the unit home, all wires tested ok, plugged it in, wired the yellow wires to the series'd humidistat and sail switch, and this one blew immediately. So i guess this one is going back to Home Depot too.

I found Honeywell's website and wrote them the below letter.
Originally Posted by ToBiN
I have spent most of yesterday and part of today trying to get this thing to work in my Carrier Weathermaker 8000. I am now on my second unit and intend on taking this one back as well. The system has a sail switch included in the HE360A Installation kit, the humidistat included with the humidifier, and of course the humidifier. I have wired the unit into the sail switch and the humidistat like the wiring diagram shows on page 16, figure 12 of the installation manual with all of the elements wired in series with the two yellow wires. The 115v plug is plugged into a nearby wall socket.

The first unit ran this way for about 30-60 minutes. After that the 24VAC that was on the two yellow wires, as well as the 24VAC that was on the two red wires was gone. They both read 0VAC. When checking the plug into the wall there was still 115VAC into the plug. This unit I returned to Home Depot and received a replacement unit.

After spending some time reinstalling this new unit I have found the same issue. No power on the yellow or the red wires as described.
I have tested all of my connections, the sail switch is open unless the blower is moving air, then it closes. The humidistat is open until I turn it up to 10 and then it closes. wired together the circuit is open unless the blower is running and the humidistat is anything higher then "OFF."

This is the second unit to fail and I have only owned the unit for just over 24 hours. Tell me where this is wrong or what can be done about these units failing. Please advise what I am supposed to do. Do I take this one back too?
I guess I will just wait for their response as to how they would like me to handle this. Do you guys have any thoughts or suggestions??

Very frustrated.
 
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Old 01-02-11, 09:39 PM
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The diagram is correct, and you have it wired up right.

I'd wait and see what Honeywell says. I have not heard anything back from the last poster of what end up being his results.
 
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Old 01-05-11, 12:24 AM
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Ok, here is an update on this topic.

After a couple emails between myself and Honeywell, they are posted below.
Originally Posted by Honeywell CC
Mr.Tobin ,
Thank you for contacting Honeywell.
Could you check the voltage in the outlet for me please?
Honeywell ECC Customer Care
Originally Posted by ToBiN
Honeywell ECC Customer Care,
Hey thanks! Thank you for responding.
I have checked the outlet the humidifier plugs into and it ranges from 120.0 - 120.2 VAC.
Extra FYI, the solenoid on the unit ranges between 0.7 -0.8 Ohms. I don't know if that helps or not but figured it may help troubleshoot.
Please let me know if you require any other specs to help me troubleshoot this unit.
Thanks!
T
Originally Posted by HoneyWell CC
Mr.Tobin ,
Thank you for contacting Honeywell.
It seems as though that you have bad circuit boards, because you have voltage coming in, but nothing coming out. We can send you out a replacement unit, it would take about 10 to 14 business days for come. I would need the full mode number, and date code off the side of it please? Also is the address that you have provide below, where you would like us to send it to?
Originally Posted by ToBiN
Again, thanks for the response.
What I think I am going to do is take this unit back to Home Depot and get another replacement. IF this third one fails then I will contact you again to setup RMA for the third unit. Hopefully and with any luck this third unit will work and we will be able to close this case.
Thanks for the help, we will be in touch.
RTobin
Originally Posted by Honeywell
Mr.Tobin ,
Thank you for contacting Honeywell.
OK, no problem just let me know what happens.
Originally Posted by ToBiN
Honeywell Customer support,
Ok, I returned the back unit back to Home Depot and got a new one in a sealed box that hadn't been opened and didn't appear to be dropped. They swapped it out for me one for one. when I returned home I checked the resistance of the solenoid in the new humidifier. The resistance of that solenoid read 17.7-17.9 Ohms. The solenoid on the humidifier that was on my plenum still read 0.7 - 0.9 Ohms. I am guessing that with the lower resistance is what was causing the control units (circuit boards) to fry themselves. Not knowing the exact specs of how your units are engineered I am just taking a guess.
So based on that guess I removed the original lower half of the humidifier from my plenum and installed this new one with the 17 Ohm solenoid. After complete installation, checkout, and testing everything seems to be working fine. The humidifier comes on when the sail switch and the humidistat are closed and shuts off when they are open. So far so good and that seemed to fix the issue.
I will take back this lower unit to Home Depot so they can put it with the upper unit to took them earlier and send it back in for repairs. You may want to add this information into a whitepaper or a knowledge base for future use as this low resistance solenoid is what looks to be the culprit of burning up two of your circuit boards.
Please close this case. I will keep monitor of the new unit and let you know if it fails.
Thanks for the help and support,
RTobin
So, I guess we can chalk this one up to some simple troubleshooting. Im not sure if they got a bad batch of boards or what, but I know if I plug in a speaker to my home theater with lower resistance then what the theater system is expecting, then the theater system will fry itself. I guess Home Depot should have been swapping out the entire unit (solenoid, fan, board) to save themselves one less fried unit if indeed it is the resistance on the solenoid that was cooking these boards.

So far so good, the unit seems to be working fine now. I will keep monitor on it to make sure it stays good.
 
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Old 01-05-11, 05:37 AM
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Thanks for the info. I haven't seen any return at our store so far. But I'll keep an eye out on it.
 
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Old 02-08-11, 10:27 PM
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Honeywell HE-260 Humidifier

I've bought a Honeywell HE-260 Humidifier. I've heard there's a way to install it without a sail switch. I'd like it to turn on when the furnace runs. Is that possible and if so....HOW?

Thanks
 
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Old 02-09-11, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DowntownLB View Post
I've bought a Honeywell HE-260 Humidifier. I've heard there's a way to install it without a sail switch. I'd like it to turn on when the furnace runs. Is that possible and if so....HOW?

Thanks
What is the make and model # of your furnace?
 
 

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