Aprilaire 600 - not enough humidity / operation questions

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Old 01-11-11, 06:28 PM
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Aprilaire 600 - not enough humidity / operation questions

With help from all of you I was able to install this unit and it is completely operational. First some tech info then questions.

humidistat model 60
aprilaire 600
piped to water heater
wired in accordance to supplied instructions with the exception of one of the "H" terminals on humidistat is wired to "HUM" on my furnace.
automatic mode using outside temp sensor
dial set to "7"
humidifier confirmed to work and flow water

I have a few questions though:

I installed it last night and the RH in my home was 29%. by morning it was 34%. I figure it takes some time for the humidity to reach the appropriate level. This morning at 34% I noted still having static shock from clothing. I got home from work this evening and noted 40% relative humidity. Felt great but quickly sank down to the current 33%. I think it was only at 40% because my thermostat allows temps to go down to 62degrees in the day and then heats(gas) to 70 around my arrival time. This must have been a long heating cycle which produced the 40% RH.

1. It appears the humidifier is not having enough time to humidify the house - correct?

2. looking at the supplied picture, the location of the humidistat is ok correct? it's about 10" upstream from the unit and that is the return duct.



3. If correct relative humidity is achieved in a house, there will be NO static shock correct?

4. When I place this unit on "blower activation" it activates the furnace blower but does not activate the water solenoid to the humidifier. I can only assume this is due to the "hum" terminal wiring. I was told the "hum" terminal is heat-only switched with is fine and makes sense, however, the question remains.

I realize how much of an OCD pain in the butt I am being but, nonetheless, I want the humidifier to do what I bought it to do. I want no static shock and moist air so I can stop waking with dry sinuses. Therefore, I've decided that my humidifier's lack of performance must be due to error on my part.

Suggestions?
 
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Old 01-11-11, 06:43 PM
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you have automatic mode, so it may not maintain your set point due to outdoor temperature it is try to compensate for to keep condensation off the windows. You could wire it to run with the fan................
 
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Old 01-11-11, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
you have automatic mode, so it may not maintain your set point due to outdoor temperature it is try to compensate for to keep condensation off the windows. You could wire it to run with the fan................
should I wire it with the fan or should I put it in manual mode?
 
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Old 01-11-11, 06:48 PM
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i would start out with manual mode as if it is an auto problem, then fan will do no good.
 
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Old 01-11-11, 09:46 PM
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With it set to 7, it should run a bit. Is your furnace runs short or long cycles?

Is your home old? (I'm guessing yes from the ductwork)

If your home is drafty/leaky, it will dry out. When the temp lowers, the humidity level will go up, but once you heat it up, it will drop.

It may take a few days to get caught up.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 06:09 AM
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it should run a bit on 7 in manual mode? I set it to manual mode and 7 last night and this morning, the RH was only 32%.

I'm confused. how long should it take? I'm starting to think that I really don't understand how relative humidity works.

In reference to Jay's questions:

-My house was built in 1966
-My furnace is fairly new I believe and it is some sort of puron two stage outfit. First the blower runs for a few minutes, then the flame lights. I would consider the run cycles short only because it seems to heat the house very quickly and then obviously, it is commanded off.
-I wouldn't consider my house very drafty but then again, that's coming from someone who is asking all these questions so it's clear that I'm not sure I know what I'm talking about.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 07:01 AM
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What the make and model of the furnace, and T-stat.

If you have a two stage furnace, it should run pretty long in 1st stage (about 15-20 minutes in mild temps, and almost non-stop in cold temps) if you have a two stage stat.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 07:29 AM
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Furnace is Carrier 58YAV and the thermostat is a honeywell I bought from home depot. It's a 5/2 programmable, not sure the model, I'm not home. It's not super fancy though.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 07:56 AM
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That model is about 12 years old, and it's a single stage 80% furnace.

You can change the CPH(equipment type) on the stat from default 5 to 3, that will give you longer run time.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 07:59 AM
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Really? 12 years old? Holy smokes I had no idea! Thought it was much newer. What does 80% mean? How do I change the equipment type and how does that work?
 
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Old 01-12-11, 08:19 AM
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Is this what you have?

80% means, about 80% of the heat you make will go into the home and 20% wasted outside in the chimney.

With newer furnaces you can get as high as 96%, so you are only wasting 4% of it outside. Great for cold area like mine here in Minnesota.

I won't know till you get back to us with the model # on the t-stat.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 08:29 AM
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yes, that is my furnace alright.

I will let you know the thermostat model.

Also, going by the picture I posted, is that humidistat mounted in a decent location?

oh, and one more thing. I was playing with the humidistat last night and I switched it to "blower activation" mode. the blower immediately came on at that point but the solenoid water supply valve did not click and open. is that normal?

thanks for all your help.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 08:34 AM
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thermostat is honeywell 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat - RTH2310B
 
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Old 01-12-11, 09:37 AM
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Here is the manual, go to page 11

Set heating CPH to 3, and I'd suggest cooling to 2.

The valve should of open when the fan came on.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 09:51 AM
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ok, I will set the thermostat when I get home tonight.

also, as far as the solenoid not coming on, with blower activation on, I'm not sure why it does not happen. I wired this unit using your supplied wiring instructions from another thread :

"Humidistat-----Fur
R--------------R
C--------------C
W-------------W
G-------------(G wire that was on G at the furnace.)
Gf-------------G
H--------------HUM
H-------------Yellow wire to humidifier.------Other yellow wire to C on board."

This wiring differs from what is in the instructions but, the instructions include the transformer which you have done away with(never would have figured that out on my own). Anyhow, I remember you saying that the HUM terminal will make sure the humidifier only runs with the heat on. That was in response to my worries of hot water consumption. Anyhow, I thought technically, just because the blower is on, doesn't mean the heat is, so, when I switch blower activation on, it turns on the blower but does not activated the solenoid because the heat is not on. did that even make sense?
 
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Old 01-12-11, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay11J View Post
Here is the manual, go to page 11

Set heating CPH to 3, and I'd suggest cooling to 2.

The valve should of open when the fan came on.
I read that page of the instructions. I don't understand the correlation of the furnace and the CPH settings. is the idea of lowering the number to trick the furnace into thinking it is more efficient?
 
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Old 01-12-11, 10:37 AM
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Yeah, that's why the humidifier isn't running. We have it wired up to HUM. Honestly, I don't like having the fan only mode. It's a lot of wasted water for nothing.

Switch it back to what you had before.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 10:39 AM
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Changing it to 3 will make the furnace run longer.. Longer run warms up more, and allows the humidfier run along with it.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 10:40 AM
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Wait, switch what back? Actually your whole post lost me. The humidifier does run, just not on blower activation mode.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by moveright View Post
also, as far as the solenoid not coming on, with blower activation on, I'm not sure why it does not happen.
If you have the humidistat set to force the fan on to humidify, it will not turn on the solenoid valve, it will only come on when the furnace comes on (HUM)
 
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Old 01-12-11, 11:42 AM
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so if the solenoid is not on and the blower is blowing air past the water panel, then nothing is happening. right? I mean, why blow air past a water panel that has no water streaming down it?

sorry for all these questions. I hope this will somehow be rewarding to you once I get this info through my thick head.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 06:17 PM
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I'm starting to think that my humidistat is mounted in a bad spot. it was reading 33% with hvac off and the heat just came on, with the humidifier running, it immediately jumped to 36%. trouble is, upstairs, my weatherstation in the fmaily room reads 29%. that's a 7% difference! or my weatherstation could be wrong but I doubt it.

Any comment on where the humidistat is? I posted a pic at the beginning of this thread.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 06:32 PM
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Personally, im an advocate for humidistats only in living spaces.
 
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Old 01-12-11, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by moveright View Post
so if the solenoid is not on and the blower is blowing air past the water panel, then nothing is happening. right? I mean, why blow air past a water panel that has no water streaming down it?
No need to be sorry.

Air is always going to flow though the pad no matter what.. Only time the water is going to go on, is when HUM is powered up.

Now if we used the transformer and wired that "HOT" all the time, then you would of seen water when the fan was called for.
 
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