Please Help wiring Humidifier to Blower Activation

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Old 03-31-12, 10:39 AM
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Please Help wiring Humidifier to Blower Activation

Jay or anyone...

Read multiple posts but can't figure this one out. I've got a Honeywell HE220A with a manual dial control for humidity. Connected to a Carrier 58CTA090 unit. All units new and connected in 2004.

My control board on the furnace has the purple wire from the control dial going into the COM 24V screw, and the White wire into the HUM (also has W/W1 labeled on left side of screw).

It works great and only activates with furnace heat call. I want it to activate with blower call so it runs when the blower does. We have multiple days in Colorado with no heat needed, but extremely low humidity.

Which wire do I need to move on the control panel to make this happen?

Thanks!
Trent

 
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Old 03-31-12, 11:46 AM
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You will need a transformer or a #50 relay to do this properly. If you switch the white wire to G it will run with a call for fan, but it will not run unless the thermostat actually calls for fan. On a normal call for heat from the thermostat G is not powered and the control board determines when the fan comes on so the Humidifier would not work if you moved the white wire to G. It will however work if you run your fan 24/7.
Let me know if you need diagrams to use a transformer or #50 relay.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 12:33 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply, I want to get this done today. Basically I want the humidifier to come on anytime the fan runs...heat or just fan only. I have a CIRC feature too and I use that to circulate air...otherwise it's on AUTO. I will just turn the manual control dial on the humidifier to OFF when I switch to A/C so it won't run with that this summer.

Also just for reference, I am controlling the furnace/central air with a Honeywell VisionPro TH8000 Series.

I'm a novice but I try everything once.

I'll need what part you recommend I get at my Home Depot for a Transformer, and anything else needed. Also will definitely need your diagrams. I have turned the power switch OFF on the side of the unit so I believe no power is going to the circuit board or anywhere else that can hurt me.

Thanks again for any novice-level instructions on how to do this.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 01:05 PM
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The orange box store most likely will not carry the correct transformer. You need a 120V primary 24V secondary transformer, at least 20VA.

 
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Old 03-31-12, 01:21 PM
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Thanks. Where can I get one? Radio Shack? Lowes? Or will I have to order it on the net?

Where do you put the transformer? Will it need to be mounted? Inside the furnace by the circuit board or on the outside?

Since those aren't wire screws on the EAC's, I'll pick up 2 terminal connectors.

My wires are white and purple from the humidistat...is purple in place of red in your diagram?

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-31-12, 02:39 PM
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Color is not important. You could reverse them and it will still work because it is alternating current. A hardware store may have one. Or you can get one from the net. Depending on the transformer you buy it can be mounted in different locations and ways.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 06:04 PM
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And if you do wire it this way, i'd suggest to hook the water to hot water, otherwise you'll be wasting a lot of water down the drain.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 06:43 PM
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Thx. I'll probably close the cold water valve and put a new one on the hot water pipe next to it. Gonna try the cold water first. Wouldnt it cost more to use hot water since I'll being paying to gas heat what's going down the drain?

Also, the only transformer I could get today is a Heath/Zenith Model 125c from Lowes...it has multiple outputs. 8, 16, and 24v. I'm gonna use the 24v 20VA config.

Can u help walk me through? The transformer has a green, black, and white wire on one end, then three screws on the other end. I have to use 2 of the screws to get the 24v.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 06:51 PM
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Green = ground
black = hot
white = neutral

this should be in the literature that came with the transformer.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 07:03 PM
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Sorry for such novice questions but I don't want to fry anything.

So I'll put the black from transformer to EAC1, the white to EAC2, and the green to the terminal marked G on my furnace circuit board. On the other end how do I wire it with the two terminals for 24v ? Purple to both transformer screws to get my 24v ( make a split wire for that) ? Where does the white wire go to then, because right now I have both the white and purple coming from the humidistat controller to the circuit board.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 07:12 PM
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NO,
Green to ground.... or metal chassis of furnace.
white to left screw
purple to right screw
 
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Old 03-31-12, 07:17 PM
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Ok, I thought the G was ground on the board. It has another green wire on it right now from something else. But I'll ground the transformer to the chassis. Thanks.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 08:03 PM
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G is 24VAC input from the thermostat to turn the fan on and off
 
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Old 03-31-12, 08:56 PM
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You are not losing any hot water at all down the drain. With the water evaporation, the water cools off fast. I've done a reading, and water going into the unit was about 120˚, and at the outlet, it dropped down to like 56˚.
 
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Old 03-31-12, 11:36 PM
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Ok. I was talking about it coming from the water heater thus it costing more to keep reheating more replacement water.

Hooked everything up and its running good! No sparks or funny burning smells.

Running the fan all night to see if cold water does anything. I'm at 25% for starting humidity. If it doesnt get to 35% I'll try a hot water connection.
 
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Old 04-01-12, 06:59 AM
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Fyi, I only install bypass and powered humidifiers to hot water. It provides better humidification.
 
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Old 04-01-12, 08:04 AM
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Isn't my HE220a a bypass?

After running the fan all night with no heat its only up 2% to 27%. Time to try hot water connection. You think it will make a big difference? At least get me to 35%? 3 level house. 1800 sq ft basement (unfinished, vents shut) , 1800 main lvl, 800 upper lvl.
 
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Old 04-01-12, 08:09 AM
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it will help! Yes, yours is a bypass. It will take more than 1 night to change the humidity that much. Everything you own will take a while to absorb the moisture.
 
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Old 04-01-12, 08:14 AM
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Ok, I'll go get the saddle valve for the hot water connection. Never done that before either...pretty straight forward? Plan to shut the valve on the cold line, disconnect the copper line from it, reconnect to my new valve. Do I need to shut off house water for that?
 
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Old 04-01-12, 09:02 AM
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Scratch that...after checking out the current saddle valve, it's hooked up already to the hot water line! So, I guess that's about all I can do. May have to buy some room humidifiers now I guess. I'll let this fan run for a few days and see if it climbs. You think 2-3 days? It's anywhere from 8% to 19% outside the next few days.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
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Old 04-01-12, 09:51 AM
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Give it at least a week.........
 
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Old 04-01-12, 10:13 AM
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Ok, thanks.

I'm measuring the flow right at the duct on the main level and it's at 28%. I would think that would be higher since it's measuring before the room furniture items absorb.

Water is flowing throught he drain tube and I have a new filter in from 2 months ago.

If this doesn't work, what are my options for whole-house humidification? This unit is 2004...is there a replacement that may work better? This unit is 12 gal/day...should I step up to 17? Switch to a steam model at the furnace?
 
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Old 04-01-12, 11:13 AM
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No expert...but you would have to remember that the output measurement will also depend on the RH of the input air.

If the rest of the house is only ...say 5%...then the humidifier can only increase that by a certain amount.

JMO....but it would seem to make sense.
 
 

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