Aprilaire 600 Installation Location Options?

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Old 04-01-12, 02:48 PM
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Aprilaire 600 Installation Location Options?

I plan to install an Aprilaire 600 unit and have a question regarding AC coils.

These are the two locations in which I can install this unit:





Installation on the return would be a bit tight with it's proximity to the control panel.

Installation on the supply would depend on if I have clearance from the coils? Can you install the humidifier adjacent to the coils if there is clearance?

Appreciate any input.

somegeek
 
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Old 04-01-12, 04:50 PM
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it makes no difference supply or return, you just have to have the clearance. Best thing to do would be to remove the front door of the coil box and view where the coil is located a from there gauge where you want to install the humidifier.
 
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Old 04-01-12, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
it makes no difference supply or return, you just have to have the clearance. Best thing to do would be to remove the front door of the coil box and view where the coil is located a from there gauge where you want to install the humidifier.
Will do - thanks for the reply.

Hans
 
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Old 06-03-12, 09:52 AM
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Regarding the Aprilaire 500 drain tube, can I add a T to my AC drain pipe(pic above), which runs outside and drips onto the ground next to the AC unit pad ouside, for my humidifier water drain as well? Was thinking I'd put a plastic gutter splash block to direct it away from the foundation.

somegeek
 

Last edited by hlain; 06-03-12 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 06-03-12, 12:50 PM
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no, the drain will freeze during winter.
 
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Old 06-03-12, 01:33 PM
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Ouch - good point.

Our laundry room is adjacent to the HVAC location in the garage(if I were to punch through the wall I'd be in the laundry room. Do folks ever punch through walls to route the drain tube into a washer drain? Not sure of a graceful way to route the tube into that room and the drain minus cutting a horizontalgroove in the drywall and following up with putty/paint.

Insulating that 3/4 PVC pipe going outside would not prevent it from freezing I imagine.

somegeek
 
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Old 06-03-12, 04:06 PM
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Other than doing as you speak of a condensate pump can be used to route the water elsewhere.

Insulating the pipe will not keep the pipe from freezing at the end. Heat tape can be used, but I don't like that.
 
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Old 06-03-12, 05:44 PM
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Thanks for that. Will have to figure that out later this summer then.

Can you please shed light on my wiring here?

Here's a pic of the current terminations on the furnace unit itself - Trane XL80. I have an AC unit installed.

Would I...

Terminate my W to W1 or W2?

The C terminal is noted as B/C - would I terminate C here?

R looks straight forward.

Gf goes to G.

Terminate G on the block there as well or does that have to run to a lead coming in from the thermostat?

I have the AC transformer installed and wired per the diagram to the solenoid and run up to the Humidifier controller.

Thanks for your help on this, hvactechfw!
 
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Old 06-03-12, 05:51 PM
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W goes to W1
C goes to B/C
G wire currently on furnace control board goes to G on humidistat and Gf from humidistat goes to G on furnace control board.
 
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Old 06-03-12, 06:09 PM
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Sweet - thank you much!!

Looking forward to getting this running tonight. Sure will beat refilling and cleaning our kid's room humidifier every night. Both kids have bad allergies. This should make the whole house more comfortable for them. :
 
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Old 06-21-12, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by hvactechfw View Post
Other than doing as you speak of a condensate pump can be used to route the water elsewhere.

Insulating the pipe will not keep the pipe from freezing at the end. Heat tape can be used, but I don't like that.
The condensate pump is the way to go. I wouldn't tap it directly into the washer standpipe unless the humidifier is higher than the top and the pipe enters at the same level as the washer hose, because otherwise if that pipe ever clogs, the washer will basically start dumping into the humidifier, which will dump right into the ductwork since it is a downflow unit.

And if you ever need a reason NOT to use heat tape (and a perfect example of why you are a moron if you don't have smoke detectors), I give you my own personal experience.. Almost $40,000 in damage due to a heat tape shorting out in a crawlspace. This happened at 3am, and that corner is a bedroom...



 
 

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