Aprilaire 60 wiring to Triangletube Furnace

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Old 12-05-12, 06:41 PM
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Aprilaire 60 wiring to Triangletube Furnace

Help! I'm having trouble wiring my Aprilaire 60 for an Aprilaire 600 to my furnace. As you can see below, my furnace wiring is not so simple. I believe I have properly wired the H/H to the 24 volt transformer that came with the unit as indicated in the diagram. (not shown in the photo)

I have wired the R on the humidistat to the Red wire on the furnace, which is indicated on the furnace wiring diagram as the ground.

I have wired the C to the blue wire on the left, and the W to the White wire.

Outdoor inputs are properly connected to the outside sensor.

I do not have G or Gf as indicated in prior threads to avoid wasting water having the blower come on all the time. Thanks Jay for the tip!

The humidistat shows power of 24 volts, and the solonoid kicks with 24 volts in when I turn it to test.

However, the humidstat does not turn off after the blower cuts off. I think it is going to burn out the solonoid valve if I leave it on too long.

Below is the wiring of this monstrosity, along with the furnace wiring diagram. The small yellow wires on the left are the new ones I connected.







Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
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Old 12-05-12, 07:32 PM
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Where do you have W from the humidistat to at the air handler?
 
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Old 12-05-12, 07:44 PM
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W from the humidistat is the little yellow wire connected to the white wire right in the middle of the photograph.
 
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Old 12-05-12, 07:48 PM
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Does it stop if you removed the wire on W at the humidistat?
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:03 PM
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Yes. There was a bit of a delay after the blower stopped, then it shut off (with no wire to humidistat on W). Note that I showed 24 volts on R/C, and even though the solonoid appeared to be working properly, I didn't show any power to the H/H terminals when I checked them with the meter (both before and after the solonoid was activated).
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:13 PM
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Ok, I'm confused....

Now you are saying the solenoid valve is shutting off??
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:21 PM
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Please disregard my last post. I disconnected W from the humidistat, and I checked it again. The solonoid valve is not shutting off even though the blower went off. I had to manually shut it off by turning the dial to the left.
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:27 PM
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With W wire removed form the humidistat, and when you turn it back up again, does it come back on again?

Is the switch set to force fan on to add humidity? (Even tho G is not wired up._
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:33 PM
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Yes. The switch is set to force the fan on to add additional humidity.

The solonoid turns on when I turn it to test. I think there is too much humidity in the air right now for the humidistat to turn on the solonoid on its own.
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:39 PM
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Turn the switch to heat only, that's why it's running when heat is not on.
 
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Old 12-05-12, 08:42 PM
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Done. But now the solonoid doesn't turn on at all.
 
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Old 12-06-12, 07:15 AM
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Have a meter to see if you are getting 24v at W on the humdistat when heat calls?
 
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Old 12-06-12, 06:52 PM
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I think it's working now Jay. As you suggested, I turned the switch to heat only. I then re-attached the W wire to the humidistat (from furnace white). With a bit of testing, it appears that the humidifier now turns on and off, but only before and after a heat call. I also learned that, in test mode, the humidistat green light turns on, but the solonoid will only activate unless there happens to be a heat call at the same time. I think that was throwing me off. So, the bottom line is that the original wiring was ok, but I needed to have the switch set to heat only. I just hope in this configuration that the humidifier will generate enough humidity for my home.

In any event, it appears to be working now. I really appreciate your help and guidance. Thanks very much for taking the time to help me and everyone else.
 
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Old 12-06-12, 09:53 PM
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Just let ti alone for a few days and report back.
 
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Old 12-28-12, 07:00 AM
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now, low water pressure

Thanks. Now that I've had the system running for awhile, everything seems to work fine on the humidifier; however, the water pressure showing on my Triangle Tube boiler is too low to pump much water into the humidifier. Although the solonoid opens, there is only a very small trickle of water.
 
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Old 12-28-12, 07:52 AM
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You should be getting water off your main house water line, not the boiler itself.
 
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Old 12-28-12, 12:27 PM
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It appears to have been connected to a hot water line coming out of the boiler, but before that line goes into the extra water tank.

The furnace has been running awhile, and now there is not much pressure in the boiler, and there is no water coming out into the humidifier.
 

Last edited by ericmax; 12-28-12 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 12-28-12, 08:00 PM
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Extra water tank?

The humidifier should be hooked up to the main house water line, not the boiler line..

You need to put water back into the boiler to get your pressure back up, and shut off the water for te humidifier till you move the water line.
 
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Old 12-29-12, 10:45 AM
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I have a combination boiler for both hot water and for the furnace/air handler. The boiler has a separate large tank to store hot water for the home. The humidifier line was installed between the hot water line coming out of the boiler on its way into the hot water storage tank for the home. In any event, here is how I fixed the problem.

Because it hadn't been drained in awhile, I was thinking that maybe there was alot of sediment in the boiler and storage tank. So, I shut off all line valves, opened the drain valves on the boiler and storage tank, and drained the entire system of water (which got rid of a lot of sediment). I let the automatic valve fill the boiler tank to 12 psi, and opened the line valves to refill the storage tank. Once the boiler heated water for about an hour, I turned on the furnace, and went throughout the house and briefly ran hot water through every faucet to make sure hot water was flowing throughout the system.

Now, the boiler gauge shows a fairly constant 12 psi, fluctuating up to around 18 psi when actively boiling water, and the system heats the house quite well. The humidifier line also appears to be flowing much better. I will continue to monitor it.

I hope this makes sense. Thanks again for all your help.
 
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Old 12-29-12, 11:32 AM
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pictures will help us understand. You have an indirect water heater. IF your humidifier is tied into the boiler at all and not the domestic water (where it should be) then you will have boiler pressure problems.
 
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Old 12-29-12, 06:01 PM
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Here are some pictures the line to the humidifier is on the pipe in the picture on the bottom left (on the blue line). Let me know if you need more pictures.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]7170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]7171[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]7172[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]7173[/ATTACH]
 
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