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New to Humidifiers—my Honeywell HE365 is not working. Where do I start?

New to Humidifiers—my Honeywell HE365 is not working. Where do I start?

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  #1  
Old 11-17-14, 04:52 PM
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New to Humidifiers—my Honeywell HE365 is not working. Where do I start?

Hi all,

I moved into a new house this summer and realized today that the humidifier that's installed atop the furnace isn't running. This particular model is powered and has a fan unit inside it. But it seems fairly ordinary: a filter, a drain tube, the solenoid valve, the humidity control panel mounted on the return air duct, and of course the water line connected to the water heater via a pin valve.

A few things I've noticed:

1) The unit doesn't run when the furnace is running. The furnace-mounted receptacle that powers the humidifier has power.
2) The humidity control panel causes a click when adjusted (click is at about 10%; ambient humidity in the house is around 30% right now)...but, other than this click, there is no response from the humidifier.
3) Filter is not soaked and is, in fact, bone dry.
4) No water coming out the drain pipe

I am completely new to humidifiers but would enjoy fixing this instead of having a pro come out (though I'm certainly happy to do that if necessary).

Any advice on where/how to start troubleshooting? For example: the solenoid valve might be bad, but how do I know other than just replacing it and seeing if it fixes things? And if the problem is with the water-supply side of things, should the humidifier fan still run? Finally, if the fan doesn't run, could the problem be there somehow and not at all with the solenoid valve?

I am pasting a blown-up schematic of the unit below. Any help would be much, much appreciated.Name:  HE360parts.jpg
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  #2  
Old 11-17-14, 07:00 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Do you have a voltmeter ? You could check for 24vac at the two solenoid valve lines.
 
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Old 11-17-14, 07:37 PM
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Thanks so much. I will check and report.
 
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Old 11-18-14, 04:42 PM
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I took the humidifier apart today and checked out various problem points. I have only a simple (110, 220, etc.) voltmeter, so I wasn't able to check the low-current wires of the solenoid for 24vac. But I did ascertain the following:

1) Water is certainly flowing to the solenoid (no blockages, etc.)
2) The solenoid valve appears to be in good working order (no build up, etc.) but is CLOSED (thus no water to the filter, etc.).
3) This unit has a powered fan, and this is not running either. I don't know whether the fan would always run separate from the solenoid or if it would only run when the solenoid (directly or roundabout) tells it to.
4) Power is coming from the power plug to the circuit board, but no power appears to be leaving the circuit board. This I checked (sans voltmeter) by touching the hot and neutral wires of the various items plugged to the circuit board together (wires to solenoid, wires to humidistat, etc.). No sparks.

The HVAC people who apparently installed it 10 years ago were kind enough to answer some questions over the phone, and their suggestion was that it could either be the solenoid having gone bad or...as I suggested...the circuit board. They said there would be sparks if the wires were getting power...thus my guess.

Both replacement parts are fairly expensive ($90 each), while the whole system is only $400-something.

Any suggestions other than just buying one (say, the circuit board) replacement part and seeing if that fixes things? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Old 11-18-14, 07:23 PM
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There is 120vac sent to the board. There should be a 24vac transformer and relay on the board.
Try shorting the two yellow wires that go to the humidistat together and see if relay clicks, fan starts, solenoid opens for water flow.

If nothing..... disconnect power and remove the control board. Check the transformer for discoloration.... brown coloring. Look at the back of the PC board and check the solder connections.

Is this the board you have ?

Name:  honeywell 360 board.jpg
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  #6  
Old 11-19-14, 08:29 PM
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Thanks so much for your super helpful response. Yes, that is the board I have. I believe I did try shorting the two yellows and got nothing, though now I'm trying to recall if I also had the solenoid connected at the same time. In any case the fan is always connected and didn't turn on when I shorted the yellows. The board looks ok from the top (though I didn't really know what to look for); haven't inspected it from the bottom yet. Am I just looking for brown (burning) or bad connections on the back?

Thanks again,
 
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Old 11-19-14, 08:45 PM
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Yes.... you're looking for black connections. We just had a similar thread here two weeks ago but for some reason I can't find. The guy shot pics of the board and several connections on the back were black.

When you short the yellow wires.... the relay should click turning the fan on and the water solenoid will activate. If you don't find any burned contacts then you'll need to be able to measure for 24vac.
 
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Old 11-20-14, 10:23 AM
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Ok great. Thanks so much. And—perhaps a dumb question, but...—when I short the wires, that just means touching the bare ends together, yellow to yellow, right? I will try this, examine the board, and, eventually, get a cheap voltmeter to check for 24vac at the solenoid. Thanks so much.
 
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Old 11-20-14, 12:12 PM
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We just had a similar thread here two weeks ago but for some reason I can't find. The guy shot pics of the board and several connections on the back were black.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/hu...t-board.html#b
 
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Old 11-20-14, 06:54 PM
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Excellent. Thanks for the link.
 
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