Go Back  DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Heating, Cooling, Air Conditioning, Ventilation and T-Stat Controls > Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers
Reload this Page >

Problem with Honeywell HE280 and Lennox G40UH(X) (replacement humidifier)

Problem with Honeywell HE280 and Lennox G40UH(X) (replacement humidifier)

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-06-14, 04:52 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Problem with Honeywell HE280 and Lennox G40UH(X) (replacement humidifier)

Previously, we had a Lennox branded whole-house humidifier that was a Healthy Climate variant of some sort. The sort that is now discontinued. That humidifier stopped working when the lime deposits gummed up the innards. That one was professionally installed. To do a new one, they wanted 3x or more what a new one costs.

So, I got a new one - the Honeywell HE280. Part of my goal was to retain as much of the previously installed items as I could without creating any new holes.

The original setup was on the return, with a vent to the furnace outflow. In keeping with my goal, I used the same setup. I had to increase the size of the hole into the return a bit, but nothing terrible.

Everything appears hooked up correctly, but there's no water flow into the humidifier itself. I have confirmed:
- water flow from the saddle valve
- electricity to the humidistat
- electricity from the humidistat when the switch is cranked on

(Note: the humidistat is the only thing left over from the earlier one. The original used power from the furnace itself. I tried that, but it didn't work, so I went ahead and wired the transformer. There did not appear to be anything proprietary about the humidistat and the hole was just enough different that I'd prefer not to mess with it.)

One thing that I'm not sure how to test is the pressure switch. I wish they had an LED or 2 that confirmed when it was "on" from the humidistat and from the pressure switch. I can hear a "click" but nothing seems to happen.

This forum had some great information, just none that helped with my problem, so I registered.

TIA for any help.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-06-14, 10:40 PM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
You cannot use a furnace pressure switch that is getting 24 volts from the furnace transformer if you are using a second transformer for the humidifier.

Name:  Honeywell HE 280.jpg
Views: 7021
Size:  41.1 KB
 
  #3  
Old 12-07-14, 01:12 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
Grabbing 120 volt power from the furnace Hum terminal to power your second transformer will serve the same purpose as the pressure switch did formerly.

Name:  Lennox G40UH.jpg
Views: 1930
Size:  32.6 KB
 
  #4  
Old 12-07-14, 07:25 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks, guys. I did end up bailing on the furnace-power and only have the "external" transformer going. (But, it would be easy to go back, since I didn't pull the wiring out yet.) It is currently wired consistent with the diagram.

Is there some way to test the pressure switch or even bypass it, just to confirm the system overall works?
 
  #5  
Old 12-07-14, 07:49 AM
Houston204's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,426
Received 17 Votes on 14 Posts
Using the furnace Hum terminal to power that new transformer would remove the need to have a pressure switch in the circuit.

You will need to remove the pressure switch from the humidifier control circuit to use an external transformer.

Name:  Lennox G40UH to HE 280.jpg
Views: 4000
Size:  42.7 KB


A second option is to lose the second transformer and continue to get 24 volts from the pressure switch as you had with the old humidifier.
 
  #6  
Old 12-07-14, 12:42 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm sorry, you kinda lost me. There's a tube pressure sensor (like a pitot, basically, for a plane) that goes to the control unit on the humidifier. (One end is inside the humidifier itself and the other end goes into the furnace outflow ducting.)

Are you saying that by powering the unit straight from the furnace, I don't need that? I did try to run it from the old furnace-connected power, and it did not work.
 
  #7  
Old 12-08-14, 09:27 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Apologies, all. Turns out there is something proprietary (or relatively so) about the humidistat. I installed the one that came with the HE280 and it immediately started working. It must pass more current through than the older one.

Just a note for any future searchers.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: