Need help diagnosing Honeywell HE360 humidifier and/or H8909 Humidistat

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Old 01-05-15, 03:08 PM
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Need help diagnosing Honeywell HE360 humidifier and/or H8909 Humidistat

Our Honeywell HE360 whole home humidifier isn't working. I can hear a "click" when I turn the mechanical humidistat but am unsure if the water valve and/or fan are working. There are 2 yellow wires coming out of the humidifier body that are wired to the humidistat. Can I short those two yellow wires together to simulate the humidistat "closing" and verify whether it's working? Or, is there another way to test the rest of the system to determine what is or is not working properly. Right now, no water is getting to the filter pad so I assume the valve isn't opening...either it's faulty or it's not getting the proper signal or voltage to do so. Any suggestions would be appreciated...thanks!
 
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Old 01-05-15, 04:46 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Yes... you can short out the two yellow wires.

With a typical installation you need a humidistat as well as some way to tell the humidifier that the fan is running.

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Old 01-06-15, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the reply. We purchased this home earlier this year so I'm not terribly familiar with everything yet. After reading your reply I did a little more investigating. What I found was that there is no "sail switch"...just the humidifier and humidistat. I sketched up a drawing to show how it's wired:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]44445[/ATTACH]

it's simpler to visualize then describe :-) Basically, from the humidifier, one wire (red) goes straight to the furnace where it is dead-ended with a wire nut (not connected) while the other wire (white...shown in drawing as black) goes through the humidistat and is dead-ended at the furnace with a wire nut (not connected).

I'm assuming the 2 wires at the furnace should be hooked up to provide a signal (and 24V) to tell the humidifier that the furnace is running. Is that assumption correct?

I'm wondering why it would have been disconnected. I also and unsure where to connect at the furnace control board. The furnace is a Rheem Classic 90 Plus. I can provide a pic of that board if necessary.

I guess my main concern is why it was disconnected by the previous owner. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
 
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Old 01-06-15, 07:10 PM
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I had to do a little research here. There are three in the series..... HE-360, HE-360A and HE-360B. They all basically work the same way but come with different activation switches. They require a 120v receptacle. It can be live all the time or on with the blower motor.

In your case you have three choices to make your humidifier work. You can purchase a sail switch, a clamp on current sensor switch or a basic 24vac relay.

You may have a current sensing relay in by the blower motor where it gets installed. The Honeywell part number is 32001754. You can search for deals using that part number.

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If you want to use a 24vac relay.... we can go that direction too.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 02:55 PM
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Thanks again. I have determined it is an H360A model. I did some more poking around and here is what I found on this exercise:

The 24V wiring is how I described it before. I then noted that the 120V cord from the humidifier is plugged into an outlet on the side of the furnace. I verified that the outlet becomes "active" (120VAC) when the blower turns on. The outlet is wired to the control board of the furnace at two points labeled "LINE" (shown to the right in the pic).

I found the attached wiring diagram for Honeywell H360 models (below) that shows a similar wiring to mine but I still am not sure why the 2 wires from the humidistat are capped with a wire nut within the furnace. Essentially, from the two yellow wires at the humidifier, one goes to this wire nut with no connection inside the furnace and the other connects to one side of the humidistat.

Hopefully, the pics help clarify. My question now is...do I still need a way to "tell" the water valve to open or is it tied somehow to the 120V fan connection...essentially telling the humidifier to open that valve when the blower is running? Or, do I need something like you mentioned and why isn't it there if this used to be operational?

Is the wiring diagram (2nd pic) what I should be shooting for?

Thanks again for the help...hope I'm not being too difficult :-)

 photo FurnaceControlBoard_zpsa0068324.jpg

 photo humidifierwiringdiagram_zps12714b4e.jpg
 
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Old 01-07-15, 03:54 PM
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If your receptacle becomes live when the blower starts.... then you can just wirenut the red and black wires together. The humidistat will keep the loop closed when calling for humidity.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 04:38 PM
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Ok, I looked again and the red & white wires coming from the humidistat are actually bonded together (wire-nutted) within the furnace...so, the wiring forms a loop through the humidistat. I am now suspecting a faulty humidistat. Can I just short the two yellow wires together at the humidifier while the blower is running to test the functionality of the water valve? Is there any danger of damaging anything by doing this? I can just as easily pick up a $25 replacement humidistat and try it. Sorry for all the questions but I certainly know a lot more about my humidifier now :-)
 
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Old 01-08-15, 02:38 PM
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I shorted the two yellow wires together and no change. I pulled the humidifier body off, plugged in the low voltage connector, and looked for the humidifier fan to turn. That didn't work. I looked online and the reviews of this model have a LOT of complaints about the transformer/circuit board in the unit going bad. I am suspecting that is my problem :-(
 
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Old 01-08-15, 04:06 PM
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Unfortunately those boards do have problems. Sometimes they burn up and sometimes it's just bad solder.

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Check the back of the board for problems.
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Old 01-21-15, 02:29 PM
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That turned out to be the problem. The new relay board fixed the problem although I did have to clean the water solenoid input...it wouldn't allow water to pass. What an ordeal but at least it's all working now. Thanks for all the help!
 
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Old 01-21-15, 06:16 PM
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You persevered....... good job !
 
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