Replacing Aprilaire 56 with Aprilaire 60 Humidistat

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Old 01-14-16, 01:54 PM
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Replacing Aprilaire 56 with Aprilaire 60 Humidistat

My Aprilaire 56 is not opening the solenoid unless in test/reset mode.

I disconnected the outdoor sensor wires and switched to manual mode but it still not working unles in reset. The red diagnostic light is off.
I thinking in replacing it with the Aprilaire 60 Humidistat but my current installation does not use the external 24VAC transformer connected to the solenoid water valve that shows up in the model 60 wiring instructions.
I was wondering if I really need the transformer given the fact my solenoid works fine without it.

Finally, as recommended here I do not intend to use the blower activation function so I was wondering if I can just transfer the R C , OTD and H H wires plus sensor wires from the 56 to the 60 or I need to do anything different. I really did not want to play with the thermostat and furnace wires but I am skilled enough to do so if needed. Furnace is Carrier.

Optionally I heard that IMAGE® 110V Digital Air Humidity Control Controller WH8040 could work as well as the Aprilaire so I was wondering if anybody by any chance will have the schematics to transfer from the 56 to IMAGE WH8040

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 01-14-16, 08:32 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I can get you fixed up. I just need to know which humidifier you are using ?
 
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Old 01-14-16, 09:00 PM
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Thank you very much Pete and I am sorry I forgot to mention the humidifier, it is Aprilaire 600.
 
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Old 01-14-16, 09:18 PM
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Ok.... so your humidifier needs 24vac to activate. The following diagram allows you to use your furnace to power the humidistat and the humidifier. The only addition is you'll need to add the W wire between the h'stat and the furnace board. This wire activates the 60 and 62 h'stats.

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I'll have a diagram up in about 20 minutes for the WH8040
 
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Old 01-14-16, 09:41 PM
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Keep in mind..... if you use the 60 or 62 humidistat you can set it up for automatic control by using the outdoor sensor. You won't have that option with the WH8040.


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We're using the W terminal as that terminal will supply 24vac to the humidifier on a call for heat.
 
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Old 01-15-16, 06:22 AM
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Wow, just awesome Pete!!
Thank you sooo much for helping me out, I was leaning towards the WH8040 due to people saying is more accurate than Aprilaire but you rigth I do have the external sensor installed so I will order the model 60 and install it following your diagram.
Again, thank you very much!
Dan
 
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Old 01-15-16, 06:42 AM
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By the way I went downstairs to check the wires and got some pics, I am not sure if it changes something but the first white/red wire set is coming straight from the Carrier furnace, the second set goes directly to the solenoid valve and the manual resistor is in place of the external temp sensor that I disconnected.
It is slight different than your diagram so I took the pics.
 
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Old 02-08-17, 09:06 PM
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Thanks to your Diagram humidifier is work now!!!

You rock!!

The only thing is that on blower mode on , it doesn't stops by itself.
I guess I will just leave it off.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-08-17, 09:31 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You're very welcome.
You're better off letting the thermostat control the the blower.
Let the humidifier run only during a call for heat.
 
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Old 01-03-19, 10:33 AM
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PJmax, thank you, brother! Created this account here on doityourself.com just so I could thank you, and offer a fix to others.

Your post(s) were instrumental to me getting my Aprailaire 600 humidifier and Aprilaire 56 humidistat working once again.

My symptom was a little different than most - both the red 'service' lamp/LED and green 'replace filter' lamp/LED were staying on constantly. Didn't matter what I did with the knob, they stayed on constantly and the water valve never energized.

Long time tech/engineer here - i.e. Old Man.

After a lot of reading and poking around I determined the 56 humidistat attached to the furnace was the problem. Grabbed the multimeter and went to town on the circuit board. Checked many diodes, transistors and resistors to no avail - all looked good as did all solder connections. Was a little concerned about the fine dust around most of the circuit board. Didn't like the slightly grimy look around the potentiometer/humidistat knob. Tested it with the ohm meter and didn't like it's linearity. Grabbed the CRC Lectra Clean contact cleaner and gave the control a 1/2 second shot and masagged the control. Did it a second time for good measure. Allowed the cleaned to evaporate and threw it back into service and Voilą! Both lamps/LED's are now extinguished and all is working as normal.

I think the potentiometer was just grimed up and the wiper simply was not conducting properly. Appears to be a solid fix. FYI - this setup has been running for 12+ years now.

I think others could do this without having to dismantle anything the way I did. Just pull the control knob off and strategically shoot a little contact cleaner into the shaft area of the potentiometer/control and massage the control a bit, Do remember my exact symptoms - both the red error lamp and green replace filter stayed on all the time (when the furnace is calling for heat).

Saved me $60+. Thanks again, brother!
 
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