Honeywell HE250A stopped working

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Old 11-08-16, 08:16 AM
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Honeywell HE250A stopped working

I have a Honeywell HE250A that has run fine for several years. The other day I checked it and it showed the indicator for replace water pad, whcih I did several weeks before. I forgot to hit the reset button. Anyway, even though the thermostat(ecobee 3) is calling for humidity and shows that the humidifier is running, it is not.

The Humidifier is powered by a 24V transformer connected to the furnace junction box. It is most certainly giving 24 volts to the humidifier. I tested the solenoid valve and it seemed like it could be flakey, so I replaced it with a new one. Still the humidifier does not work.

How can I verify where the problem is. At this point I assume the circuit board has gone bad, but I want to make sure that is the problem and not the thermostat. How can I test this? The HE250 is a bit different to test due to the circuit board. Older humidifiers would be easier to test. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-08-16, 09:30 AM
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I agree..... the HE-250 is a little confusing to troubleshoot.

I need more information on your wiring.
You have 24vac transformer connected to "power in" ?
Do you have the system monitor set to off ?
A short on hum/control terminals should turn on the humidifier.

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Old 11-08-16, 09:56 AM
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Yes 24V transformer connected to power on the unit. The unit does have power.

The unit was set to Monitor On. (Both dip switches to the Left)

I changed the dip switch to Monitor Off and Bingo! It started working.

With Monitor set to Off, what is telling the unit to Humidify? My impression is with Monitor set to On, it is taking it's cue from the thermostat.

If the above assumption is correct, where do I look for the problem and how do I control humidity in the meantime?
 
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Old 11-10-16, 06:17 AM
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PJ,
Any thoughts on this. I'm sure you're busy.
 
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Old 11-10-16, 08:42 AM
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What other wires do you have connected ?

There needs to be a wire or two from the ecobee to the humidifier.
At the stat.... what wires are on the ACC+ and ACC- terminals ?
 
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Old 11-11-16, 06:13 AM
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I have wires from ACC+ and ACC - connected to Hum1 and Hum2 of the humidifier. But they do run through the Ecobee wiring module(relay?).
 
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Old 01-09-17, 05:39 PM
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Well my unit stopped working and it is not the solenoid. What can I do to test this? It's either the ecobee or the board on the humidifier.
 
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Old 01-09-17, 06:49 PM
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Do you have a voltmeter ?

When you short the HUM/control terminals AND the airflow sensor lines the solenoid should open.

I still don't know your exact wiring.


If you want to know how I'd wire it......
Open the HE-250 and locate the two solenoid wires. Connect one to C at your furnace.
Connect the other wire to ACC+ at the Ecobee and program for single wire operation.
 
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Old 01-10-17, 02:26 PM
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I have a meter. The problem is that the solenoid has the socket plug on it. That's what makes this unit difficult to test. I would have cut the plug off and strip the wires. I suppose that would then bypass the circuit board by doing this.

Could I make jumper wires for both HUM/Air flow and short them both?

I use the ecobee remote module(not sure what you call it) to pickup the extra wire needed for acc+ and acc -. acc+/acc- then connect to the HUM terminals on the HE250. Power is supplied by 2 wires from the 24 volt transformer on my system.
 
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Old 01-10-17, 02:31 PM
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Below is from a previous thread. It explains the setup:

Ok so for those in the same situation as I here is what you need to do. Disregard all the information posted above as it will not work.

This pertains to those who have a Honeywell TrueEase humidifier(HE 150, 200, 250) powered by it's own transformer and two stage heating and cooling.

1. Make sure both dip switches on the TrueEase humidifier are set to "Off"(left position)
2. You must have at least 8 wires running to the e3 tstat from the furnace. If you happen to have 9 wires, skip to step 6.
3. Follow the directions for connecting the power extender to your furnace. Doing so will free up the Common wire.
4. Connect the Common wire to ACC- on the e3.
5. Move the Rh wire to Rc on the e3.
6. Connect the Hum 1 and Hum 2 from the humidifier(using 2 wires) to ACC+ and ACC-(the 7. Common wire you just freed up) on the thermostat wire.
7. Reset your e3 and configure the humidifier for two wire operation. Simply reconfigure your equipment sometimes doesn't work!
8. If you want the humidifier to only run on a heat call, select "Evaporate". If you want to run it on a fan call, select "Steam".
 
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Old 01-12-17, 02:36 PM
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So I used the meter to test voltage. I have 24V going in and 24V coming(power out).

1. So it is not a power problem.
2. The Ecobee is indeed calling for humidity. This can be verified because the furnace fan comes on when there is a call for humidity and the set point is met.

It can't be possible that a new solenoid died in 2 months and the replacement is also DOA, could it?
What do I need to do to force this to turn on? My assumption at this point is that it is the board on the humidifier or the new solenoid is indeed a dud.
 
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Old 01-12-17, 04:17 PM
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With 7 or 8 wires you don't need the PKE module. I've never used those modules. I replace the cable and never have any problems.

You mentioned jumping the HUM and air flow sensor. Yes you can do that. The air flow sensor is turned on by the dip switches. For your install you don't need the air flow sensor.
The stat is telling it when to run.

I haven't used Honeywell hstats and humidifiers in years. They over designed them and made them a problem to connect for the homeowner. I switched over to Aprilaire.

You should be able to unplug the solenoid and check it for continuity.
 
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Old 01-12-17, 06:56 PM
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So if I bridge the hum1 and hum2 wires it should open? I have an Aprilaire 760 on the shelf, but it is very noisy on the return.
 
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Old 01-12-17, 08:01 PM
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The hum contacts are technically designed for a humidistat.
A humidistat just shorts the terminals.
 
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Old 01-30-17, 07:30 AM
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I couldn't get it to work. Changed the board, valve, etc. Scrapped it and bought an Aprilaire 600. Hooked it up, simplified my wiring. Worked on the first shot and it works better.
 
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