Ecobee Smart (w/ voice control) and Aprilaire 600M Wiring

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Old 02-19-20, 02:00 PM
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Ecobee Smart (w/ voice control) and Aprilaire 600M Wiring

Looking for some guidance on setting up an Ecobee smart with voice control thermostat to work with my Aprilaire 600M humidifier. I currently have my Aprilaire 600M installed at my furnace (with 120v to 24v transformer) and controlled by the manual humidistat that it came with. Iíd like to integrate this directly to my ecobee to be able to let the ecobee control the humidifier. Iíve attached a basic wiring diagram of my existing setup.

My research on this leads me to believe that the best approach here would be to disconnect the transformer and the humidistat and remove them entirely or abandon in place. I also have a spare wire (C-wire) at the thermostat that I think I should use to wire the humidifier to the ACC+ terminal and just install the PEK module so I donít have to worry about running new wire. Iíd just like some confirmation that my reasoning here is sound and that the following steps are indeed correct based on my existing wiring:

1. Connect one yellow wire from the humidifier solenoid to the ACC+ terminal on the ecobee via the extra green wire (C-wire)

2. Connect the other yellow wire from the humidifier solenoid directly to C on the furnace board, thus bypassing the manual humidistat and transformer entirely, rendering those useless to me

3. Install the PEK module at the furnace board as if I didnít have an extra C-wire

4. Set up the humidifier in the ecobee as a 1-wire accessory when all is said and done

Help is much appreciated!
 
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Old 02-19-20, 03:50 PM
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Following on this thread as I am in the same boat here. I came across this board after going a rabbit hole on google, which started from cleaning up some dripping water from the bottom of the Aprilaire 600 housing unit. We've had an ecobee4 installed for several years now. When I initially installed it, I never gave thought to the humidifier control as I just got used to adjusting it during the winter and turning it off during the summer. It is evident now that it would be a lot better to have this on the fly adjustment from the smart thermostat. I started looking at the wiring I have and the wiring schematic and I am either thoroughly confused or overthinking it.

I believe I have a 1-wire set-up; however, I am really looking to avoid having to run another thermostat wire back to the ecobee. I've tried finding the routing up from the basement to the thermostat and it would not be easy to pull.
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Here is a pic of the thermostat pulled off the wall so you can see the current wiring. I do not have any extra wires available.
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The next three pictures show the wiring going from the furnace control board to the humidstat:
- There is one brown wire with 5 smaller wires running from the furnace control board to the humidifier control board and humidistat.
- The white wire from this bundle is connected from the humistat to the 'Y' terminal on the furnace control board.
- The blue wire that is providing the power is running from the 'C' terminal on the furnace control board, it is then spliced and connected with wire nuts to the solenoids for the humidifier and then continues up to the humidistat.
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At this point, I am just looking for some direction as to how this needs to be rewired. Thanks!
 
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Old 02-19-20, 04:57 PM
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Welcome to the forums and welcome to the forums.
A true double header.

I don't like using the PEK adapter. As a pro I only install smart thermostats with a C connection. Yes.... I realize it can be hard to get a wire to it but it makes the operation smoother and more reliable in the long run.

Anyway........ don't overthink this setup. You have two wires to the humidifier solenoid. Connect one of them directly to the C terminal on the furnace. The other wire connects to ACC+ on the Ecobee. That's it. No extra transformer no extra humidistat. Program the Ecobee for single wire operation.
 
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Old 02-19-20, 06:13 PM
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Thanks PJMax! Can I ask, what is it that you don't like about using the PEK adapter (i.e. what makes it less reliable in the long run and less smooth operationally)? Running wire is a pain but not impossible so just want to weigh the costs/benefits.
 
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Old 02-19-20, 07:30 PM
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Pete,

Thanks for the info. So essentially, I would need to run a new wire to the yellow solenoid wire that is currently spliced and connected to the blue wire going to the humidistat and remove that connection? From my pics, what is the white wire that they have run from the "Y" furnace terminal to the humidistat?
 
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Old 02-19-20, 07:41 PM
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Do you have a standard furnace with a split A/C ?
Not a heat pump or heatpump-A/C ?

I don't know why there is a wire from the humidistat to Y. Humidistat to W would make more sense.
 
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Old 02-19-20, 08:35 PM
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Pete,

My apologies, it is wired to the ĎWí terminal. And yes, itís a standard furnace / AC. Goodman brand.
 
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Old 02-20-20, 07:36 AM
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And Pete, if indeed I need to just pull a new wire do you have any tips on the best way to do that and what wire would you suggest?
 
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Old 02-20-20, 07:50 PM
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Typically the thermostat is on the first floor and the furnace/system is in the basement. That would mean one hole thru the plate in the wall. You'd need to snake the wire up that hole. You could try pulling your old wire (don't let it go or tie a string to the end) out but usually if it's a wire installed when the house was built.... it's fastened in the wall.
 
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Old 02-24-20, 08:14 AM
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Pete,

I took on the task yesterday and it became more eventful than I had expected. I first confirmed that the existing wire was not stapled to the wall, thank God. The holes at the thermostat location and the hole in the basement where the wire dropped down to the furnace area were too small. I tried to carefully drill next to the holes to make them bigger; however, caught the existing thermostat wire. This ended up forcing my hand of having to pull a new 18/5 in to replace the existing. I taped the new 18/5 and 18/2 together and tried to fish through with the old wire, but it came loose. Took us several hours with a clothes hanger through some of the outlet holes, but we finally got the wire to drop into the basement.

I hooked up the 18/5 as previously done and then ran the new 18/2 over to the humidifier. I left the existing C wire in place that was running from the C terminal of the furnace to one wire from the solenoid on the humidifier. I then connected my new wire from the thermostat to the other wire at the solenoid to the humidifier. I disconnected the wire running from the humidistat to the "w" terminal on the furnace.

A few questions:
- What is best way to determine everything is wired correctly and the humidifier is running properly?
- Do you have knowledge of the typical settings for the humidifier? I see an option of either On or Frost Control.

Thanks!
 
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Old 02-24-20, 08:19 AM
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As a note, when I got to the ecobee4 settings and change humidifier to "on", the system is still showing no equipment running right now. Is that because the heat is not currently running?
 
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Old 02-24-20, 09:01 AM
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On means to run the automatic operation.

The Humidifier menu enables or disables the humidifier, if installed:
 On: Run the humidifier to increase the humidity to the configured set point.
 Off: Do not operate the humidifier.
 Frost control: Automatically maintain the humidity to stay comfortable but prevent condensation or frost on your windows


Humidifier
This menu lets you configure a humidifier accessory.
 Type: Optimizes the humidifier operation for either Evaporative or Steam humidification.
 Min Run Time Delta: Reduces short cycling by running the humidifier beyond the set point by the selected amount (2% to 10%).
 Window Efficiency: The humidifier frost control setting uses this efficiency rating to compute the humidity set point within the range of 15% to 50%. Values are from 1 to 7, with 7 being for the most efficient windows possible.
On Thermostat:
1. Select Main Menu > Settings > Installation Settings > Equipment > Humidifier.
2. Configure the settings as required.
 
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Old 02-24-20, 09:21 AM
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Pete,

Excellent info. Thank you!
- When would you recommend running the "On" command vs. "Front Control"?
- With the old humidistat, I would typically run the humidifier only during the winter. When it got to spring here in Denver, I would just turn it off and close the water and air-bypass off. Is this the right thing to do?

Also, is there a good way to determine that I have this humidifier wired up correctly now to the ecobee?
 
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Old 02-24-20, 09:38 AM
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Normally it stays in ON. Frost control is for very low outside temperatures with lots of ambient humidity.

To test for correct wiring..... pull the wire out of ACC+ and touch it to the R terminal. The humidifier should run.
 
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Old 02-25-20, 07:36 AM
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Pete,

I tested it per your instructions and it worked out great. We don't get a lot of ambient humidity here in Denver so I think I will just keep the humidifier set to on.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Kyle
 
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Old 03-02-20, 07:22 AM
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Pete,

I am still getting a leaking from the bottom of the cover to the humidifier housing, which seems from condensation not being able to evaporate. I am going to replace all of the internal components and water panel, but any other ideas what would be causing this. I went down this morning and the unit was off, but I pull the top of water panel and it was still dripping water.
 
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Old 03-02-20, 08:09 AM
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As a note, I ordered a new Aprilaire 4040 solenoid valve to replace to see if that is the issue that is happening.
 
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Old 03-02-20, 09:14 AM
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Sorry for all of the additional replies, but adding some more info:

- I hooked the solenoid valve back to power without the water and turned on the humidifier just to see if it would function. I can hear it clicking on when power is applied, but I am still going to replace to be sure.

- I did take my voltage detector and confirmed 24V was coming in to the solenoid, but it was coming from the ACC+ wire side. Does that seem right? In my head, I figured it would be coming in from the wire that is back to the furnace C terminal?
 
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Old 03-02-20, 09:35 AM
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If the water doesn't shut off when the solenoid is powered down then it's not shutting all the way off and leaking.

If you use a non contact detector pen then the 24v power comes from the ACC+ connection.
C is considered ground or cold side of power.
 
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Old 03-02-20, 01:17 PM
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Pete, thanks for the info. I will switch out the valve in the morning when it arrives and see if that takes care of the issues I am seeing.
 
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Old 03-02-20, 06:33 PM
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After you change yours..... you can come and change mine. It's leaking too.
 
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Old 03-06-20, 05:02 PM
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Pete,

I guess I can head your way as this seems to have fixed the issue so far! Thanks again for all of your help.
 
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Old 03-06-20, 05:29 PM
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Good job.........................................
 
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