Aprilaire Model 60 controller - No voltage to solenoid.


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Old 01-29-21, 01:40 PM
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Aprilaire Model 60 controller - No voltage to solenoid.

No voltage to solenoid with an Aprilaire Model 60 controller. I just installed an Aprilaire 500 bypass humidifier on a forced air system. The problem is that the humidifier solenoid valve is not actuating. Going through the troubleshooting steps with Aprilaire tech support we found that the Honeywell R8285A fan control center is only putting out 17.2 VAC between terminals R and W. The humidifier needs at least 24VAC to operate the solenoid valve. There is 27.2 VAC between R - C and R - G. Should voltage between R - W also be the same? What could be the cause of the low voltage?

Also checked voltage between all terminals on the R8285A:


R&W-No stat call for heat - 17.1V.
R&W Stat calls for heat - 17.1V.
W&C - No stat call for heat - 0V.
W&C - Stat calls for heat - 0V.
W&Gnd - 1.6V.
 
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Old 01-29-21, 03:49 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

We need some information.
The fan center doesn't put any voltage out on the W wire.
W power is a switched function from a thermostat.
What type of system is this ?
It sounds like an oil fired air furnace.

R to C = 27vac. That's good.
The fan center is 40va and is plenty large enough.
 
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Old 01-29-21, 04:26 PM
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Hi Pete,
Thanks for responding. Yes it is a Thermo Pride low boy oil fired air furnace. I have wired the controller per the Aprilaire circuit diagram. All wiring checks out. When I called tech support, the technician told me that I needed 24 volts between R and W for the solenoid to operate. If this is wrong, is there any alternate way of wiring the control? I noticed that you have given other members various alternatives. I also used the extra transformer supplied with the unit and I would prefer not to. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

-Lee
 
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Old 01-29-21, 04:55 PM
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You're welcome.
You do not have to use a separate transformer. As I mentioned that fan center uses a 40va transformer which is plenty large enough for the job it has.

The techs you talked to should have asked if you had an oil system like I did.
Then they would know that the W terminal is not used on the fan center.

Follow this diagram.....
 

Last edited by PJmax; 01-29-21 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 01-29-21, 05:05 PM
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Many thanks Pete, I will do this tomorrow.

-Lee
 
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Old 01-29-21, 05:29 PM
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Hi Leek , I believe that W terminal from the furnace should go to the W on the humidistat, otherwise the humidifier could run when just the fan is running, one other thing, you do have the humidistat calling for humidity?
Geo 🇺🇸
 
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Old 01-29-21, 05:35 PM
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@ Geo..... this is an oil fired furnace using a fan center.
A two wire thermostat connects to R and G on the fan center. W and Y are blind terminals.
That means G is the heating terminal.
 
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Old 01-29-21, 09:03 PM
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Pete- I wired the control to your diagram and the solenoid still did not energize. I measured the voltage at the solenoid leads and it was only 11.5 volts. I'm baffled.
 
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Old 01-30-21, 05:30 AM
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Hi, do you have 24VAC between R&C at the humidistat? Between R and one of the H terminals? Post some pics of that fan center.
Will the solenoid operate if you apply voltage to the 2 yellow from R&C on the control?
Geo 🇺🇸
 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 01-30-21 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 01-30-21, 05:42 AM
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Pete, your thinking that furnace terminal is actually the fan center, correct?
Geo 🇺🇸
 
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Old 01-30-21, 06:48 AM
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Geo, Yes I have 24VAC between R&C at the humidistat. 24VAC between R and the first H on the humidistat. See photo of fan center


 
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Old 01-30-21, 07:08 AM
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Hi, now with the furnace running and the humidistat calling for humidity test between R& the other H terminal, disconnect the 2 yellow wires.
Geo 🇺🇸
 
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Old 01-30-21, 08:34 AM
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Geo, With the 2 yellow solenoid wires disconnected: 11.4VAC between R and the second H terminal.
 
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Old 01-30-21, 09:44 AM
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Wow! Remove the jumper between R &H and With the furnace running and a call for humidity use an Ohmmeter to test for continuity between H H, this should be a closed circuit.
Geo 🇺🇸
 
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Old 01-30-21, 11:59 AM
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The HH terminals on the A60 are from relay contacts and upon activation should create a dead short. That means when operating there should be no voltage measured between the H's.

Likewise.... if you create your own short at HH.... regardless if furnace is running or h'stat is calling..... the solenoid should open.

I can't remember ever seeing a defective relay in one of those before.
 
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Old 01-30-21, 01:00 PM
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Removed the jumper between R & H. No continuity between H & H on call for humidity. Same condition in Test/Reset mode.

Also shorted H to H and the Solenoid opened. Is it a defective relay?

-Lee
 

Last edited by leek47; 01-30-21 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 01-30-21, 07:00 PM
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Yes....that's a defective relay.
 
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Old 02-01-21, 01:22 PM
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Pete, I ordered a replacement model 60 humidistat. I will have it on Friday. I will probably be posting again when I install it. Should I start a new thread?
Thanks,
Lee
 
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Old 02-01-21, 05:06 PM
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No.... post right here Lee.
 
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Old 02-04-21, 01:08 PM
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So I received the replacement model 60 humidistat today and wired it to your diagram. Running tin auto mode. Some quirky things are happening:
1. Started the Solenoid with the "Test Reset" function
2. Solenoid operates only when Blower Activation switch is in the "on" position.
3. Solenoid stays open after furnace fan shuts down and continues to feed water to the humidifier.
4. Solenoid will turn off only when Humidistat dial is turned down.
5. Solenoid will not turn on again unless Humidistat is reset.
 

Last edited by leek47; 02-04-21 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 02-04-21, 04:19 PM
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Hi, have you tried the step by step start up instructions in the manual, do you get any trouble codes?
Geo 🇺🇸
 
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Old 02-04-21, 04:34 PM
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Hi, Yes, I have followed the steps in the manual. No trouble codes. It's been running for a few hours now and seems to have stabilized. The humidistat is cycling on an off as humidity levels are reached, however, when the furnace fan shuts down, and there is still a call for humidity, the solenoid stays open. It seems as if it is not getting a signal that the fan has shut down. This is an older furnace (25 years).
 
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Old 02-04-21, 05:03 PM
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when the furnace fan shuts down, and there is still a call for humidity, the solenoid stays open
Try disconnecting the W wire where it's connected to G on the fan center.
If that closes the solenoid...., you need to see what voltage is on G (measured to C)with no call for heat. It should be 0v.
 
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Old 02-04-21, 05:18 PM
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Disconnected the W wire from G. Solenoid valve stayed open.
Checked voltage from C to G with no call for heat. - 0V.
 
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Old 02-04-21, 06:13 PM
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Solenoid operates only when Blower Activation switch is in the "on" position.
That switch must be off.
Try it in manual mode. The humidistat is still operational but it won't change based on outside temps.
Whenever you change modes..... blower on to off or auto to manual.... you need to disconnect power the humidistat to reset it. Just take the R wire off for a few seconds.

Your W activation is correct.
 
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Old 02-10-21, 05:55 AM
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Manual mode is not my preference. I want to use the outside temp feature to adjust the humidity %. Since I couldn't get the solenoid valve to close on fan shut down, and not wanting to dig deeper into this, I decided to add a current sensing relay to the furnace fan and wired it to the solenoid to open the valve only when the fan is on. I set my smart thermostat to circulate which will cycle the fan randomly to add humidity if needed when there is no call for heat. It has been running this way for a few days now and I am very satisfied with the result.


 
 

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