Half inch size holes in back yard.


  #1  
Old 04-28-04, 07:49 AM
L&K
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Half inch size holes in back yard.

Hello.

I am living in GA.
My back yard doesn't have much grass.
All the weed and wild flowers and no trees.
I found a lot of small holes about half inch size all over the my back yard.
I think this is some kind of insect.
What is that and how I can treat them.

Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 04-28-04, 01:25 PM
K
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hard to say. do some scouting and report back with more info. try to spot one of the little boogers.
 
  #3  
Old 04-28-04, 03:01 PM
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Holes in lawn

Little raised areas in the soil with a hole are normal in spring, especially after a rain. These are made by earthworms. Worms are beneficial as they aerate the lawn and keep the soil loose. Holes will eventually fill in.
 
  #4  
Old 04-28-04, 08:49 PM
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Night Crawlers

Hey P let's git sum crawlers and do some fishin

~Marturo~
 
  #5  
Old 04-29-04, 07:04 AM
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Those little critters can make quite a mess of a lawn.
The first thing we did when we purchased our first home was to level and resod our lawn.
After a few months the sod had taken well but lumps were starting to appear that looked like we laid the sod directly over rocks.
Turns out that we were in an area that had a very high population of night crawlers. Some would stretch to almost a foot long when you pulled them out of the hole.
My neighbour warned me about using nasty chemicals as some had tried without much success, leaving their yard a toxic mess.
Had we first talked to our neighbours we would have realized landscaping would be a waste of time.
It turned out to be quite a novelty though, seeing neighbours out with flashlights in the middle of the night.

Lots of tricks available to harvesting them. A good soaking with a sprinkler brings them up and there is a trick using electricity. Too dangerous to talk about here but works very well.
 
  #6  
Old 04-29-04, 07:42 AM
L&K
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Thanks you guys.

Yesterday I dig the hole and find out there was Grub in the hole.
The holes are all over the yard about 500.
Also, I saw a lot of beetles ast year.
The question are, it is not harm to the lawn and how can I treat.

Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 04-29-04, 08:11 AM
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Lightbulb Non Chemical Method

Hello: L&K

Grub worms can be controlled in two methods known to me. Would like to share them with you and others reading this thread.

Try this non chemical organic recipe method:

In a pot, about a gallon size, boil water.
While water is boiling, add in 2 cups of antiseptic mouth wash.
(Use non flavored type, if possible)
Add in 2 cups of chewing tobacco juice.
Add in 2 cups of common liquid soap.
(Not dishwashing soap) Plain liquid soap.
Add in 1 cup of household ammonia
Boil and Stir well.

Making tobacco juice:
Buy one round container of chewing tabacco, unflavored type.
Put contents into an old hanky or similar thin cloth.
In small sauce pan, fill with water.
Bring water to a boil.
Toss in hanky with tobacco.
Allow to boil 15-20 minutes.
Remove hanky and toss into trash.
Allow liquid to cool.
Use this juice to make above.
Add to above.

When all the liquid is combined, add it to a two gallon pump sprayer. Spray effected area. Water well daily for about two days. Wait and watch. Grubs should die... If grubs remain. Repeat application.

Alternate method.
Buy a commerical chemical.
Favorite brand is Attack. Others available.

Additional organic lawn, tree, garden and flower recipes can be found in the notes at the top of this forums list of questions, etc.

Regards & Good Luck
"My Two Cents".......
Web Site Host & Forums Monitor
 
  #8  
Old 04-29-04, 01:21 PM
K
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if you have grubs that bad you better treat them soon or you will loose your lawn. they are prolific root feeders. i would pass on organics at first and go for the quick kill. then get on an organic program to keep them out. just my opinion.
 
  #9  
Old 04-29-04, 03:46 PM
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The quick fix or the long fix?

Hello L&K

Sorry about looking like we were teasing. No excuses we were & now that you know what it is that you have, it's time to get busy & make a plan.

Being an Organic Grower since 1972 & being on my own Drinking well, I would never consider using Diazanon. No one here is wrong, that you must believe, however you do have some choices & they don't cost the same ammount to deploy. By the same token with the Organic choice it's a one or 2 time application & last's 20 years. Diazinon is less expensieve & you must use it once or twice a year every year.

I will work with you on the organic approach & as I have read already we have others who can guide you if your choice is a Chemical treatment, & provide you a link to the White Sheet. White Sheet: a mandatory set of instructions on what to protect & how to protect the person or persons applying the product a very important guide that even Organic products have.

Has anyone identified this grub yet? 1. Japanese Beatle? : Larve (Grub ) 3/4 to 1.5 inches long, not a pure white color, Moles runs are seen more often when Grubs are at their peak. Adult beatle is 3/4" to 1" inch long Green with copper colors with an iridesent look. Often seen on hot days eating Flowers & foalige with many others. Not a very big beatle that has the same look, & is seen alone & not in groups.

As kerry has said they are prolific root feeders, many time's Grass but Vegies & small trees also. So this is what the grub is doing in your yard, the Beatle is only there to eat, mate & lay the eggs that turn into the root eating grubs. So if you covered the yard with something to remove the grass the beatles would starve. If you used a Predator that would find this Grub & kill it & use the carcus to hatch out millions more Milky Spore, there would be less beatles to mate & lay more eggs. Also this Milky Spore will infect more & more Grubs around you. No one knows where they stop, I figure they will quit, when there are no more Grubs to infect.

Now very soon these Grubs will change into a beatle however it took quite a few years to get this many grubs. Why rush now to pour Toxins that will kill this grub in a NY Minute. Only to have new Beatles find your yard this fall, with all that space & new tender root shoots to eat all winter long on.

My choice & this is where I put my money in a product called Milky Spore. I am in year 8 & have found the Acre I grow Produce & Fruit on is 95 percent Grub free. Milky Spore is that Predator I spoke of that you apply this living product, & they infect the Grub & kill it for 20 years after one or two applications.

I hope someone will correct me if I am wrong however I believe you have to treat your lawn twice a year with Diazinon once in early Spring & again in Fall. I do know that like many Chemical treatments the bad guys are not the only ones thay are destroyed & as we have found to late for many Humans with now banned chemicals, we to pay a heavy price someday down the road or our Children do.

I/we are at you service, so let's get busy & get some dirt under our nails. Tell us how you would like to procede in riding your yard of these Grubs. Do you think this is the Grub in question? Do you have a Well, Kids, Pets?

I will wait for you now, to read all we have thrown at you, & then we can make plans to rid you of Grubs once & for all.

Some very important links. The last link is about the Toxic harm caused by Chemicals just to compare the different Toxins, used in & around peoples homes.

http://homeharvest.com/milkspore.html

http://www.milkyspore.com/milkyspore.htm

http://www.biconet.com/biocontrol/bpopillae.html


http://www.beyondpesticides.org/info...s/toxicity.htm
_________________________________________

~Marturo~
 

Last edited by marturo; 04-30-04 at 01:59 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-30-04, 06:04 PM
T
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Grubs

Ah, the plot thickens. When you stated that you had very little grass that should have been a tip. Guess I didn't have my thinking cap on. Identification of the grub would be a good thing to know. Perhaps you can take one by your local Dept. of Agriculture Extension Agent's office for identification and recommendations for treatment in your area. Not all chemicals are allowed in all areas, so it is always best to check in with your Agent. Over the years, I have always made friends with the local Extension Agent. Now, I am in Rotary with our local Agent, so I have an opportunity every week to share whats 'bugging' me. (No pun intended.)

What kind of beetles did you see last year? If you know, then that will tell us what kind of grubs you have.

And, marturo, we can still go fishing with grubs. I'm ready to go if you are. I keep my fishing pole in my car, and my vest and boots are always raring to go.

If you have too many grubs, they are telling you that your lawn is unhealthy. This is usually a sign of too much fertilizer, resulting in weak and soft grass roots which grubs love. Healthy soil lets grass roots grow steadily all year. Liquid fertilizers, in particular, causes grass to grow faster than naturally.

Thus, reducing artificial fertilizers is important. Fertilizer bags report a higher content of nitrogen than is used by turf specialists. Set mower to cut at about two inches and leave clippings on lawn for a slow-release fertilizer.
Water only once a week, but water deep, to encourage deep and strong grass roots. If you don't know how much you are watering, put a can on the lawn. It typically takes an hour to get an inch of water with a sprinkler.

Perhaps your grubs are white? Internet garden forum posters tend to report holes in lawns where there is white grub infestation. White grubs are the larvae of the June Beetle of the genus Phyllophaga, of which there are over 100 different species. Phyllophaga larvae and other larvae of the family Scarabaeidae are often referred to as "white grubs". Larvae of the Phyllophaga are fat grubs which lie in C-shaped positions. They are whitish in color with dark areas at the rear and a brownish head. The adults are beetles. When I was a kid, we'd capture a green June beetle and tie a length of sewing thead to a leg and fly them around for a while and then release them. Almost as much fun as kite flying. (Building homemade kites from newspapers and twigs is another story for another day. Appalachian children are very resourceful, despite the negative media coverage.)

And, the grubs do make great fishing bait! They are actually quite tasty. (Cooking grubs for survival is also another story. As I stated, we mountain people can be resourceful if necessary.) Heavy infestations of grubs attract raccoons, skunks, armadillos, opossums, crows, ibis, and other birds, which make holes in the lawn and garden to feed on the grubs. Species of white grubs that feed on grass roots cause yellow patches in lawns. In many cases you may be able to lift back dead patches of your lawn like a carpet where grubs have been feeding.

Control of grubs is essential to the health of your lawn and your plants. It is, however, difficult to locate and target underground pests with a pesticide. Early application in April through early May of a pesticide/insecticide product is effective. I no longer have a lawn, just a concrete parking lot at my business, but in my previous life I was a loyal Scott's lawn care product fan and maintained picture perfect lawns and applied the spring application of their fertilizer which contained the insecticide and followed their lawn care schedule. I became a dedicated user of the spring insecticide application after having a backyard wiped out by the army sod worm. I must admit that I was guilty of maintaining a lush green lawn because I am a perfectionist. While I slept, these night feeders destroyed my lawn. That was over 30 years ago in a previous life with a lawn. Now, when I sleep the winter freezes and thaws destroy my concrete parking lot. If its restoration could be as simple and as inexpensive as lawn restoration and grub eradication, I would whistle Dixie.

To maintain a healthy lawn, first, use a slow-release, complete fertilizer, and apply it only 3 - 4 times per year. Frequent applications of water-soluble nitrogen lead to succulent growth that is aesthetically pleasing, but is very attractive to pests. Most lawn pests are attracted to dark green turf for egg laying...a condition created by the overuse of nitrogen. Secondly, water conservatively…do not overwater, or underwater. When irrigating, apply about ¾ to 1 inch of water. Mow turf areas frequently enough that no more than 1/3 of the leaf height is removed. Keep mower blades sharp, as rough cuts of grass blades open them up to disease.

Because not all chemical products are available in all areas, I stress the importance of checking in with your local Dept. of Agriculture Extension Agent. Frequently used products containin carbary (often sold as Sevin brand products), malathion, and dursban. Also, a biocontrol agent, Bacillus thuringeinsis (BT), is available commercially. Worms treated with BT stop feeding within a day or so and die within a week. You should weekly monitor your lawn for reinfestation have eradication. Always read and follow the instructions on the label.

Well, marturo, I guess we will have to go to the local bait shop. We don't have night crawlers and we have eradicated the grubs. I have some beautiful homemade lures, which were gifts, but I don't want to take the chance of losing them. Because I don't live where there's trout, I couldn't find salmon eggs here in Eastern KY. Went to the mountains last weekend, but my river was up so I couldn't fish. Did buy some salmon eggs. Next trip back to my cabin, I'm heading down river in my waders with my salmon eggs, and I will pick up a small box of Velveeta cheese.

Forgive us, L&K, marturo and I tend to drift off subject when we bump into each other. We are compatriots and soul mates on the forums. Please do forgive our banter in your posts. We have been doing this for the last few years. I've never met this commercial organic gardener, hunter, fisherman person, and now computer expert. Please know that his expertise is greater than mine and that he is our inhouse gardening expert at DIY.com. marturo is a "hands-on" expert, and I live vicariously through books and research because I no longer have a lifestyle that affords me a lawn or garden. The smell of fresh mown grass and tilled gardens are so tintillating to me each spring, I have to refresh my memory with a reread of all my gardening books.
As far as I am concerned, what marturo says is what goes when it comes to gardening. I may interject and he may shoot me down with his hunter instinct. Go with marturo! He's our gardener and I am our researcher. marturo hasn't shot me yet, so I guess I'm safe.

Please note that it is extremely important to get your soil and light conditions corrected. If you have heavy shade, then trees should thinned to allow sunlight to access your lawn. Get your pH tested in your lawn (your Extension Agent can tell you how to do this.) Eradicate your lawn pests. Seed and feed according to recommendations by your Agent.

Keep us posted. Your post and replies are extremely important because of educational value. Please, keep posting with updates.
 

Last edited by twelvepole; 04-30-04 at 06:20 PM.
  #11  
Old 05-03-04, 09:58 AM
L&K
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Thanks you all.

I think I have another species on my front yard.
After two rainy days, I checked front yard I find out another holes.
It is fresh holes.
It has half to one inch size.
I saw spider on the front side as well.
Is that will be another Gurbs.
I still little confusing how to treat.
It is not late to treat?
It will be still effective.
I think best way is milkspore.
Can I find in some local stores?
How about the cooking method.
Do I have to apply both?
Can I post pictures?

Thanks
 
  #12  
Old 05-03-04, 12:15 PM
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Back soon

Hi L&K

I read your post & have to leave for a Root Canal in 1 hr.
I will get back & help answer your questions this Afternoon

Talk with you soon.
 
  #13  
Old 05-03-04, 10:53 PM
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Milky Spore for Japanese Beatles.

L&K Said:

I think I have another species on my front yard.
After two rainy days, I checked front yard I find out another holes.
It is fresh holes.
It has half to one inch size.
I saw spider on the front side as well.
Is that will be another Gurbs.
I still little confusing how to treat.
It is not late to treat?
It will be still effective.
I think best way is milkspore.
Can I find in some local stores?
How about the cooking method.
Do I have to apply both?
Can I post pictures?

Did you read the links for Milky Spore in my post, I got for you?

You may find the Milky Spore locally, but it will cost more than Online.

If you can put up with your yard, to get your plan's together this Summer. The best time is a fall application as you will read in the above links. The Beatles are about to fly away & into my Deluxe Bag a Bug, every beatle you catch & kill is worth 50,000 eggs.

What kind of soil would you say you have? Sandy, clay?

All grubs are not bad so we have to look at the baddest one & that has to be the Japanese Beatle. I got rid of them & still see very little grubs & some that are grey in color & hatch into moths.

Read and write a journel this summer, feed your lawn with a low nitrogen plant food & grow some nice juicy rootlets so by fall the grubs will be eating the rootlets & Milky Spore. Every Grub that get's infected will become a mega Milky Spore factory pumping out more & more milky Spore until there are no more Grubs in your part of the planet

What have you learned about this nasty stowaways from Japan? Why don't they have a natural enemy in the US?

We will look at it again tommorow.
 
  #14  
Old 05-12-04, 06:47 PM
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Holes + yard

Identification of grubs and/or beetle would be significant. If identification is impossible or insignificant, treat yard with insecticide on a regular basis as indicated by manufacuturer. Milky spore research tends to reveal that it is effective over the long run for Japanese beetle larvae but not other types of larvae.
 
 

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