Roach Killer

Old 10-06-06, 11:20 AM
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Roach Killer

Is anyone know how to control the roaches in the kitchen. I have a lot of roaches in my kitchen. I tired everything but nothing happened. Roaches gone for few weeks and then come back. Please advice me what should I do to get rid of them.
Old 10-06-06, 01:42 PM
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reza_1674, Welcome to the DIY forums

What have you tried when you said you tried everything?

Here's a great article that is very informative:

(you'll have to copy and paste)

Have you tried those roach motels? I use them and they really work well. Not a roach in site.
Old 10-06-06, 03:25 PM
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I used a product called MaxAttrax. The product comes in about 2-1/4 inch squares that have openings on all sides. It is baited with a poisen that the roaches eat and carry back to the nest to regurgitate to feed other roaches and the young. I find it very effective. I have not seen a roach in the 3 years that I have been using it. I replace the bait stations every year. You should find it at any home center.
Put a couple under your cooking range and any area where piping enters; such as base cabinet under the sink. Other areas to consider are bathrooms, utility rooms, laundry rooms and garage. Get the product listed for large roaches. You should see results in about two weeks.
Old 10-07-06, 03:12 PM
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The problem with the above method is that roaches do not nest or regurgitate to feed others.

Conbat makes a gel bait that works well for less than $5. The professional version is Maxforce but they are the same company.

If you have a major infestation make bait placements about every 18 inches throughout the kitchen and bathrooms.
The syringe has a plastic needle on it so you can put the bait out of sight in cracks.
Make placements in the back corners of microwaves or any clocks or electrical appliances in the kitchen and bathroom
Also make placements in the back of cubboards where they will not be seen
Pay attention to water sources and any place you see fecal markers
I stress making the placement in small little dots about the size of a BB and hiding them well. When they dry they look just like poop.

The active ingrediant should be Fipronil or Hydramethylnon.
Both are good but I prefer Hydramethylnon.
It takes away the enzyme that converts food into energy and once the roach eats it he becomes poison, when other roaches eat him the poison is transfered to the cannibals.

If the problem is really excessive use a Raid Fumigator first.
Do not use a fogger, they are one step above worthless and do not use the Funigator after you have used the bait or you will contaminate the bait.

If done correctly you will not have to repeat the application for at least a year.

It is important to note that German Roaches can only come into a building if brought in, assuming that you have a house and not an apartment or condo.
Inspect groceries or used or clearance appliancesbefore bringing them into the home.
Old 10-07-06, 04:03 PM
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Roaches can be carried into the home or enter from outdoors or from a neighboring apartment. It takes persistence and an integrated pest management approach to get rid of them and an ongoing prevention plan to prevent reinfestation.

Sealing all entries where insects can enter the home is important. Keep doors and windows shut and make sure they seal properly. Seal around where pipes and wires enter the home. Seal around pipes beneath sinks. Caulk around doors and windows and any openings shared in a common wall with neighbors in an apartment or condo. Practice good sanitation and keep all foodstuffs in airtight containers. Keep appliances clean. Do dishes immediately and eliminate all crumbs and any possible sources of food. Correct all moisture issues in and around the structure. Declutter, especially items that may harbor roaches. Eliminate cardboard boxes. Eliminate stacks of magazines and newspapers and piles of cloths where roaches can hide. Do not leave out pet food and water dishes all the time. Vacuum and sweep frequently. Discard vacuum bag and seal in plastic bag and drop in trash can outdoors. Use a sealed trash can indoors. Seal all cracks and crevices. Caulk around doors, windows, and baseboards.

Baits are most effective. Use granular outside or spray along foundation and on soil along structure. Bait stations can be used indoors, placed in corners and in areas where roaches may travel. Gel or powder can be applied to all interior cracks. Powder tends to be more effective because it can be puffed into cracks, especially boric acid, before caulking. If using baits, do not use insecticides as they will repel roaches from the bait.

For more control info go to
Old 10-08-06, 05:19 AM
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For immediate results, a spray called "Bengals", orange can, about $14 (yes, $14). I don't know what's in it, but it kills roaches. Before it kills them, it makes them claustrophobic, so they come out into the open to die so you can collect them up.

The other suggestion of the syringed product is also good, it works VERY well, but it also is not cheap. I believe the last one we bought was about $40. Buy it from a pesticide place to get the full strength version. It only takes a small dot anywhere there is food or water available.


Can you describe the difference between a "fumigator" and a "fogger"?
Old 10-08-06, 05:54 AM
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<The problem with the above method is that roaches do not nest or regurgitate to feed others.>
Sorry, I assumed all insects nested and regurgitated because after I first put bait stations throughout the house, the roaches disappeared and in the last three years that I have been using the product called "MaxAttrax", I never found a dead roach. Before I used the bait stations, I discussed my problem with a neighbor and he said the roaches that I have are not cockroaches but are shagroaches. I do not know if he is correct or what their differance is. I also put the bait stations inside the drain holes that are built into the brick retaining wall in front of my lawn as I once saw a roach in that location.

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